The book chronicles a voyage taken by Hilaire Belloc in his cutter, the Nona, setting out from Holyhead and meandering through turbulent sounds, quiet anchorages, and coastal ports down to Bideford River. The narrative has no rigid structure, meandering purposely like a river, allowing the author to ruminate on the nature of life, memory, and the passing of time while at the helm. Belloc encounters violent gales in Bardsey Sound, dead calms off Skomer, and dangerous waters near the Cornish coast, using these physical trials to muse upon human fear, courage, and the unpredictable nature of the sea. Alongside the sailing adventures, the book provides biting commentary on modern politics, the decay of the parliamentary system, and the superficiality of modern success.
Belloc reflects on the historical weight of various locations, discussing the legacy of paganism, the Norse influence on place names, and the deep tragedies of history, particularly concerning Ireland and England. He argues that all human conflicts are ultimately theological and laments the erosion of traditional Catholic culture in the modern world. Interspersed with these grave thoughts are lighter moments, descriptions of local characters, and the composition of a sea chanty. Ultimately, the cruise serves as an allegory for human existence, full of storms, unexpected landfalls, and periods of repose, leading inevitably to an end in port.