This comprehensive work by George William Septimus Piesse serves as a foundational guide to the art and science of perfumery, detailing the mechanics of capturing the olfactory properties of plants and animal products. The author begins by examining the five senses, emphasizing the neglect of the olfactory nerve and highlighting the prophylactic and commercial value of botanical cultivation. He argues that gardeners and horticulturists lose substantial wealth by ignoring the economic potential of fragrance extraction, comparing their oversight to historic mining practices that discarded valuable ores through ignorance.
The core of the text methodically outlines the four primary operations of extraction: expression, distillation, maceration, and enfleurage. Each method is matched to the physical characteristics of the raw materials, such as squeezing citrus peels for essential oils, distilling hardy herbs, or utilizing fats to absorb the delicate and volatile perfumes of jasmine, tuberose, and orange blossoms. The author provides precise instructions and recipes for compounding simple extracts, floral waters, pastils, sachet powders, and specialized soaps, addressing both cold and hot manufacturing processes.
Moving beyond botanical ingredients, the text explores animal-derived fixatives such as ambergris, civet, and musk. These substances are examined for their unique role as fixatives, which stabilize volatile aromatic compounds and ensure that fragrances linger on fabrics and skin. The technical chapters further extend into the formulation of hair washes, dentifrices, dyes, and cosmetic emulsions, offering precise formulas and chemical insights.
Throughout the text, the author advocates for a systematic approach to blending aromas, comparing harmonious scents to musical octaves. He critiques the trade secrets common among contemporary manufacturers, arguing that transparency and scientific precision advance the industry far better than isolation. The book concludes with extensive appendixes covering testing methods for essential oils, glycerine production, and the chemistry of soap and alcohol, providing a complete technical manual for the nineteenth-century perfumer.
