This volume chronicles the author's transition from an eastern-oriented man of letters to a passionate chronicler of the American West. The narrative begins in the burgeoning literary circles of Chicago, where the author joins forces with sculptors, painters, and writers striving to build a distinct Midwestern culture. Yet, the gravitational pull of the frontier soon draws him westward toward the vast plains, towering mountain ranges, and remote mining towns of Colorado and New Mexico.
As the narrative progresses, the author recounts his travels across the high country, illuminating the harsh realities and quiet majesty of the frontier. He shifts his literary focus from the grueling drudgery of prairie farm life to the heroic, romantic types fashioned by the mountain trails. His journeys lead him into direct contact with Native American tribes, offering a nuanced look at leaders like Sitting Bull and the complex tragedy of the red man's displacement by encroaching settlers.
The book also details the author's massive undertaking to write a definitive biography of Ulysses S. Grant, a monumental task that required extensive travel and archival research. Interwoven with these historical pursuits are personal milestones, including his marriage to Zulime Taft and their subsequent honeymoon deep in the San Juan Mountains. The narrative captures the raw grandeur of the landscape, the camaraderie of trailblazers, and the bittersweet return to his aging parents in Wisconsin.
Throughout the work, the author grapples with the tensions between Eastern refinement and Western expansion. He depicts the literary rivalries of the era, his friendships with prominent figures like William Dean Howells and Theodore Roosevelt, and his own evolving philosophy of art and national spirit. The memoir closes on a reflective note, honoring the passing of the pioneer generation and marking the end of an era in American history.
