23.
Slough of the Humboldt.—Extensive bottoms of good grass.
20.
Humboldt River.—Along the entire course of the Humboldt good grass is found in the bottoms. The road, which follows the bottom, is hard and smooth, but can not be traveled in seasons of very high water, as the bottom overflows. It is then necessary to take the road on the bluffs, where the grass is scarce. The river, when not above a fording stage, can be forded at almost any point, and good camps can be found at short intervals. There are spots along the river bottom where alkaline ponds are frequent. These are poisonous to cattle, and should be avoided by travelers. It is well along this river not to allow animals to drink any water except from the river where it is running.
20.
Humboldt River.—The foregoing remarks apply for every camp on the Humboldt River.
22.
Humboldt River.—Good camps along the Humboldt Valley.
23.
Humboldt River.
13-1/2.
Humboldt River.
16-1/2.
Humboldt River.
25.
Humboldt River.
13-3/4.
Humboldt River.
24.
Humboldt River.
24-1/2.
Humboldt River.
20-1/4.
Humboldt River.
18-3/4.
Humboldt River.
13-1/2.
Humboldt River.
18-1/4.
Lawson's Meadows.—The road here forks, the left going by the Carson Valley and Sacramento route, and the right
via
Goose, Clear, and Rhett lakes, Applegate's Pass of the Cascade Mountains, into Rogue River Valley, Fort Law, Oregon Territory, Yreka, Fort Jones, Fort Reading, and Sacramento River.
33-1/2.
On Humboldt River.—Grass and water poor all the distance to the Sink of the Humboldt.
19-1/2.
Sink of Humboldt River.—The water at the Sink is strongly impregnated with alkali; the road generally is good. Travelers should not allow their stock to drink too freely of this water.
26.
Head Sink of Humboldt.—Road good.
45.
Carson River.—Road crosses the desert, where there is no water for stock, but there is a well where travelers can purchase water for drinking. This part of the road should be traveled in the cool of the day and at night. Grass good, also the water.
2.
Carson River.—Good bunch-grass near the road.
30.
Carson River.—26 miles of desert; poor grass.
14.
Eagle Ranch.—Good grass and water.
13.
Reese's Ranch.—Good grass and water.
12.
Williams' Ranch.—Very good water and grass.
15.
Hope Valley.—Road rough and rocky.
3.
Near Sierra.—Good camp, with water and grass.
7.
First Summit.—Road rough and rocky; good water; grass scarce.
2.
Second Summit.—Road mountainous and very steep; snow nearly all the year.
10.
Lakes.—Good camp.
12.
Leek Springs.—Good grass near the road.
10.
Trader's Creek.—Grass and fuel scarce.
12.
Sly Park.—Grass and fuel near the road.
Forty Mile House.—Water plenty; grass scarce.
Sacramento Valley.—Water plenty; purchase forage.
Sacramento City.—Water plenty; purchase forage.
Total distance from Salt Lake City to Benicia, 973 miles.
У Больших лугов, в 23 милях от Утопления Гумбольдта, путешественникам следует сделать остановку на день или два, чтобы дать отдых и восстановить силы животных, а также нарезать травы для перехода через пустыню, поскольку это последняя хорошая стоянка перед выходом к реке Карсон. Почва в этом месте болотистая, и поить животных следует из ведер. Место для стоянки здесь находится на правом берегу реки и примерно в полумиле к левую сторону от главной дороги. Вода находится в старице, у ее истока, где обнаруживаются несколько родников, которые текут на небольшое расстояние, но вскоре исчезают.
Дорога через пустыню очень песчаная, особенно к ее западной оконечности. В двадцати милях от Утопления Гумбольдта находятся четыре колодца. Примерно в полумиле к востоку от почтовой станции дорога, ведущая к колодцам, сворачивает вправо, где можно приобрести воду по цене от одного до двух шиллингов за каждого человека и зверя.
В 9,5 милях за почтовой станцией в пустыне дорога ответвляется от главного тракта к очень высокой песчаной гряде, и прямо на вершине этой гряды находится кратер потухшего вулкана, на дне которого лежит соленое озеро. На самом северном конце этого озера обнаруживается большой родник пресной воды, достаточный для 1000 животных. Оттуда до «Рагтауна» на реке Карсон — три мили.
Я бы посоветовал путешественникам, если их животные выбились из сил до достижения этой воды, выпрячь их и перегнать к этому месту для восстановления сил. Вокруг озера имеется немного травы.
Эта пустыня всегда была самой сложной частью путешествия в Калифорнию, и здесь, пожалуй, было потеряно больше животных, чем в любом другом месте. Постоянно встречающиеся здесь обломки фургонов неопровержимо доказывают это.
VI.— От Большого Соленого озера до Лос-Анджелеса и Сан-Франциско, Калифорния.
Miles.
Salt Lake City to
20-5/8.
Willow Creek.—Good grass.
14.
American Creek.—Good grass.
11-1/2.
Provo City.—Town.
7-1/4.
Hobble Creek.—Good camp.
6.
Spanish Fork.—Good camp.
5.
Peteetneet.—Good camp.
25.
Salt Creek.—Several small streams between. Good camp.
18-5/8.
Toola Creek.—Ford. No wood; grass good.
6-1/4.
Sevier River.—Road is sandy, passing over a high ridge. Good camp.
25-1/2.
Cedar Creek.—Road rather mountainous and sandy. Good grass and wood.
17-1/2.
Creek.—This is the fourth stream south of Sevier River. Road crosses two streams. Good camp.
3-5/8.
Willow Flats.—The water sinks a little east of the road.
25.
Spring.—Good grass and water.
22-1/4.
Sage Creek.—Grass poor; wood and water.
5-1/8.
Beaver Creek.—Good wood, water, and grass.
27-1/4.
North Cañon Creek.—In Little Salt Lake Valley. Good grass; no wood. The road is rough and steep for six miles.
5-3/8.
Creek.—Good wood, water, and grass.
6-3/4.
Creek.—Good wood, water, and grass.
12-7/8.
Cottonwood Creek.—Good grass and water.
9.
Cedar Springs.—Good camp.
23.
Pynte Creek.—Good grass one mile up the cañon.
9.
Road Springs.—Road is rough; good camp.
16.
Santa Clara.—Road descending and rough; poor grass. From this point to Cahoon Pass look out for Indians.
17-1/8.
Camp Springs.—Two miles before reaching the springs the road leaves the Santa Clara. Good grass.
22-1/8.
Rio Virgin.—Road crosses over the summit of a mountain. Good road; grass poor.
39-5/8.
Rio Virgin.—Road runs down the Rio Virgin, crossing it ten times. Grass good down the river.
19-5/8.
Muddy Creek.—Road for half a mile is very steep and sandy. Good camp.
52-5/8.
Las Vegas.—Water is sometimes found 2-1/2 miles west of the road in holes 23 miles from the Muddy, and some grass about a mile from the road. Good camp.
5.
On Vegas.—Road runs up the river. Good grass.
17.
Cottonwood Spring.—Poor grass.
29-3/4.
Cottonwood Grove.—No grass. Water and grass can be found four miles west by following the old Spanish trail to a ravine, and thence to the left in the ravine one mile.
21-3/4.
Resting Springs.—Good grass and water. Animals should be rested here before entering the desert.
7.
Spring.—The spring is on the left of the road, and flows into Saleratus Creek. Animals must not be allowed to drink the Saleratus water.
14-1/8.
Salt Springs.—Poor grass and no fresh water.
38-3/4.
Bitter Springs.—Good road; poor grass.
30-3/4.
Mohave River.—Good road and good grass.
51-1/2.
On the Mohave.—Last ford. Good grass all the way up the Mohave.
17.
Cahoon Pass.—At the summit.
10.
Camp.—Road bad down the cañon.
11-1/2.
Coco Mongo Ranch.
10.
Del Chino Ranch.—Williams.
19-3/8.
San Gabriel River.
6.
San Gabriel Mission.
8-1/4.
Pueblo de los Angeles.
65-3/4.
Santa Clara River.—On the Coast Route.
Good camps to San José.
7-1/2.
Buena Ventura Mission and River.—Road here strikes the Pacific shore.
26.
Santa Barbara.—Town.
45-3/4.
San Yenness River.—At the Mission.
78-7/8.
Santa Margareta.—Old Mission.
28-3/8.
San Miguel.—Old Mission.
24-3/4.
San Antonio River.
26-3/4.
Rio del Monterey.
15-5/8.
Solida Mission.—At the ford of Rio del Monterey.
37-1/2.
San Juan Mission.
33.
San José Pueblo.
75.
San Francisco.
VII.— От Форт-Бриджера до «Города Скал». Из журнала капитана Хэнкока.
Miles.
Fort Bridger to
9.
Little Muddy Creek.—Water brackish in pools along the creek; tall bunch-grass; sage for fuel. Road runs over a barren section, is rough, and passes one steep hill.
12-1/3.
Big Muddy Creek.—The road, with the exception of two or three bad gullies, is good for ten miles; it then follows the Big Muddy bottom, which is flat and boggy. The camp is three miles above the crossing. Some grass; sage for fuel.
14-1/5.
Small Branch of the Muddy Creek.—Cross the river in three miles at a bad ford. A mile above camp the grass is good. Road generally good.
19-1/2.
On Small Creek.—Road continues up the Muddy 9-1/2 miles to its head. It then ascends to the divide between Bear and Green Rivers, probably 800 feet, in 1-3/5 miles. The descent on the other side is about the same. The road passes many fine springs. At one and two miles back it passes points of hills, where it is very rough. Good grass and sage at camp.
8-9/10.
Bear River.—Bad creek to cross near the camp; thence to Bear River Valley the road is good. It then follows down the river, crossing Willow Creek. Good camp, with a large, fine spring.
17.
Bear River.—Good road along the river; plenty of wood, water, and grass at all points.
Foot of Grant's Mountain.—Road runs along Bear River; at 2-1/2 miles strikes Smith's Fork, a rapid trout stream. The road crosses the lower ford. A few miles farther on is a bad slough, which can be avoided by taking a round on the hills. Cross Thomas's Fork on a bridge, also a slough near it; toll $2.00 for each team and wagon. The road then leaves Bear River Valley, and turns over a very steep hill. Good grass, wood, and water.
12.
Bear River.—Road ascends Grant's Mountain 1200 feet in 1-1/2 miles—double teams—then descends again into Bear River Valley at 4-4/5 miles. Good wood, water, and grass.
17-2/5.
Indian Creek.—Road crosses eight fine spring branches; camp is on a beautiful trout stream. Good wood, water, and grass.
11.
Spring near Bear River.—Road is hilly, crossing two spring branches. Good wood, water, and grass. The camp is on the left and near the road.
11.
Bear River.—At 6-7/10 miles the road strikes a large group of springs called "Soda Springs," and here crosses Pine Creek, on the left bank of which is a saleratus lake. Soon after it strikes the main springs, and after crossing another creek the "Steam-boat Spring" may be seen in the bed of the river.
15.
"Port Neuf," or Rock Creek.—At 2-3/10 miles the road leaves Bear River near where it runs through a cañon with high bluffs on each side. At this point the California and Fort Hall roads separate. The California road (called Hudspeth's Cut-off) then crosses a valley between the Bear River and Port Neuf River Mountains, 9 miles. No water from camp to camp. Good camp.
15.
Marsh Creek.—About two miles above the main road the creek can be forded; a road leads to it from the descent into the valley. Road good; water and grass plenty; no wood.
16-1/5.
Paunack Creek.—First part of the road is hilly; the remainder good. Good camp.
7-1/5.
Mallade River.—At 7-1/5 miles the road crosses the Mallade River. Good camp 140 miles from Salt Lake City. Good road.
22-3/10.
Small Creek.—The road ascends a ridge through a cañon, and descends to a valley on the other side. From the camp to the summit of the ridge is 6-1/5 miles. The descent is 3-7/10 miles. It then crosses a valley 8 miles wide, and strikes a cañon which leads to the top of a hill over a rough road. Plenty of wood, water, and grass at camp, but no water between this and the last camp.
9-3/5.
Small Creek.—Road after five miles strikes a cañon with a long but gentle ascent. Two miles from the entrance of this cañon is a spring branch. There is wood and some grass and water at this place.
11-1/5.
Spring Branch.—The road passes through a cañon, and at 5 miles strikes the head of a spring branch, which it follows down 2-1/2 miles to the junction with a larger branch, which is bridged. At nine tenths of a mile another fork enters. Grass very fine here. Road follows down this across the main branch, and the camp is 2 miles below. Good camp.
18-1/2.
Decassure Creek, or Raft River.—Road continues down the creek 2-3/10 miles, and crosses, then ascends by a steep hill to an elevated sage plain, leaving the creek at 11-4/5 miles, and passes a slough with water. Good camp.
17-9/10.
Spring Branch.—The road crosses the creek near the last camp, and follows up a valley, crossing in five miles several spring branches. At 2-9/10 miles it crosses the creek again, and follows up the valley two miles farther, then crosses a high sage plain 8-9/10 miles long, when it strikes a spring 150 yards to the left of the road, where there is an excellent camp in a beautiful valley.
10.
Junction of Salt Lake City Road.—Road passes several small branches in 3 miles, then commences ascending through a cañon which, in 2-1/5 miles, leads to the entrance to the "City of Rocks," and passes through these for three miles. It then crosses a ridge, leaving the City of Rocks, and at ten miles from last camp intersects the road from "Salt Lake City." At 1-2/5 miles beyond this a road leads off to the right to a spring branch, 3 miles, where there is a good camp near the foot of Goose Creek Mountain. From this point California travelers can refer to the itinerary of the route from Salt Lake City to Sacramento.
VIII.— От Сода-Спрингс до Города Скал, известного как срезка Хадспета.
Miles.
Soda Springs to
20.
Bear River.—The road runs down Bear River, crossing some small streams. Good camp.
10.
Portner Creek.—Camp at the head of the creek. Good wood, water, and grass.
12.
Fork of Portner Creek.—Good camp.
15.
Pauack Creek.—Road crosses a summit. Good road and camp.
12.
Snake Spring.—Good camp.
12.
Utha Spring.—Good camp.
15.
Decassure Creek.—Road crosses a small stream; rather bad crossing. Good camp.
18.
City of Rocks.—Junction of Salt Lake road. Good camp.
IX.— Срезка Саблета от развилки дорог на Солт-Лейк и Форт-Холл.
Miles.
Junction
to
7.
Big Sandy.
44.
Green River.—From the Big Sandy to Green River (upper road) there is an abundance of grass in places along the road, but no water.
6.
Small Creek.—The road runs up the creek. Good grass.
4.
On the Creek.—Good grass and water.
12.
Small Spring.—The spring is on the left of the road. Good grass.
9.
Ham's Fork.—Good wood, water, and grass.
6.
Spring.—On the summit of a mountain. Good grass.
6.
Muddy Creek.—Wood, water, and grass.
10.
Spring.—In Bear River Valley. Good wood, water, and grass.
6.
Smith's Fork.—In Bear, River Valley. Good wood, water; and grass.
10.
Tomaus' Fork.—Road runs down Bear River. Good wood, water, and grass.
7.
Spring Creek.—Wood, water, and grass.
7.
Smith's Ford.—Road crosses over a spur of the mountain; long and gradual ascent; descent rather abrupt. Good wood, water, and grass.
8.
Telleck's Fork.—Road runs down Bear River. Good camp.
4.
Small Creek.—Good camp.
4.
Small Creek.—Good camp.
7.
Small Creek.—Good camp.
12.
Soda Springs.—Left side of the road, among some cedars, is a good camp.
Here take the left-hand road to California, called
Hudspeth's Cut-off.
X.— От лугов Лоусона на реке Гумбольдт до Форта Рединг через долину реки Роуг, Форт-Лейн, территория Орегон, Иреку и Форт-Джонс.
Miles.
Lawson's Meadows to
18-1/2.
Mountain Spring.—Road leaves the Humboldt, and takes a northwesterly course 12 miles to a spring of good water. Good bunch-grass to the left of the road, and a small spring at the camp. The road is plain on leaving the river, but after a few days it becomes faint. Road from this point passes over a desert country for about 60 miles, without good water or much grass.
38-1/2.
Black Rock Spring.—Road level and hard, with little vegetation. In 14 miles pass springs, but the water is not good. In 16 miles the road passes a slough which is difficult to cross; water not good, but can be given to cattle in small quantities. In five miles from this the road passes Black Rock, mentioned by Colonel Frémont in his trip from Columbia River in 1843-4. Three miles farther pass boiling springs, very hot, but good cooled. Grass pretty good.
20-1/4.
Mountain Rill.—Water good; bunch-grass in the vicinity. In eight miles' travel the road passes a beautiful creek of pure water, with good grass.
5-3/4.
Lake (Marshy).
10-1/2.
High Rock Cañon.—This cañon is 25 miles long, with wild and curious scenery. Road crosses the creek frequently, and the mud is bad. In the autumn the road is good.
14-3/4.
High Rock Cañon.
Small Creek.—Beautiful country, with the greatest abundance of water and grass; also fuel.
25-1/4.
Pine Grove Creek.—Road passes over an interesting country, well supplied with wood, water, and grass, and passes around the south end of a salt lake.
18-1/2.
West Slope of Sierra.—Road passes over the mountain, which is steep but not rocky, then descends to a small creek of good water which runs into Goose Lake. Good grass and fuel. Look out for the Indians, as they are warlike and treacherous here.
7-3/4.
East shore of Goose Lake.—Excellent camp.
16-1/4.
West shore of Goose Lake.—This is a beautiful sheet of fresh water; great quantities of water-fowl resort to this lake.
16-1/4.
Slough Springs.—The road passes over a very rocky divide, covered with loose volcanic debris, very hard for animals, and wearing to their feet. They should be well shod before attempting the passage.
18-1/2.
Marshy Lake.—Road difficult for wagons.
15.
Clear Lake.—Beautiful lake of pure water, with good grass around its shore.
25-1/4.
East shore of Rhett's Lake.—Road tolerable over a rolling, rocky country, between lakes. The road crosses Lost River over a natural bridge, on a solid, smooth ledge of rock.
19.
West shore of Rhett's Lake.—Plenty of wood, water, and grass along this road.
21.
Klamath River.—Road leaves Rhett's Lake, and enters the forest and mountains; tolerably good. Good camp.
15-1/4.
Cascade Mountains.—The road passes over high mountains, through lofty pine-trees. Camp is at Summit Meadows. Good water and grass, also fuel.
14-1/4.
Western slope of Cascade Mountains.—Rough roads.
19-1/4.
Rogue River Valley.—Road descends into the settlements in six miles, where there is a lovely fertile valley, well settled with farmers.
23-3/4.
Fort Lane.—Near "Table Rock," on Rogue River, eight miles from Jacksonville. Dragoon post.
22-3/4.
Rogue River Valley.—Good camp.
18.
Siskiyou Mountains.—Road crosses the Siskiyou Mountains, and is difficult for wagons.
18.
Yreka.—Flourishing mining city.