Рэндольф Б. Марси

«Путеводитель прерий: Руководство для сухопутных экспедиций»

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Agua Frio.—Permanent running water.

17.49.

Inscription Rock.—El Moro. Permanent springs.

14.23.

Ojo del Pescado.—Permanent springs.

11.74.

Zuñi.—Permanent running water.

ГОРА САН-ФРАНЦИСКО. На тропе капитана Уиппла от Альбукерке до реки Колорадо.

8.83.

Arch Spring.—Permanent spring.

10.77.

..........—No water.

19.69.

Jacob's Well.—Permanent water-hole.

7.04.

Navajo Spring.—Permanent springs.

12.13.

Willow Creek.—Rio de la Jara. Water in holes.

10.87.

Rio Puerco of the West.—Water in holes.

11.59.

Lithodendron Creek.—Permanent running water.

11.99.

Colorado Chiquito.—Permanent running water.

14.42.

Colorado Chiquito.—Permanent running water.

8.63.

Colorado Chiquito.—Permanent running water.

4.94.

Colorado Chiquito.—Permanent running water.

1.35.

Colorado Chiquito.—Permanent running water.

4.90.

Colorado Chiquito.—Permanent running water.

10.99.

Colorado Chiquito.—Permanent running water.

15.88.

Colorado Chiquito.—Permanent running water.

4.44.

Colorado Chiquito.—Permanent running water.

1.51.

Colorado Chiquito.—Permanent running water.

29.72.

Colinino Caves.—Permanent water-holes.

11.81.

Near San Francisco Spring.—No water; water 4 miles from camp.

10.46.

Leroux's Spring.—Permanent water.

8.23.

..........—No water.

6.17.

..........—No water.

8.54.

New Year's Spring.—Permanent spring.

9.77.

Lava Creek.—Water in hole.

9.89.

Cedar Creek.—Water in holes.

13.26.

Partridge Creek.—Water in holes.

3.89.

Partridge Creek.—Water in holes.

13.52.

Partridge Creek.—Water in holes.

0.87.

Picacho Creek.—Water in holes.

7.45.

..........—No water.

8.69.

Turkey Creek.—Permanent running water.

5.71.

Pueblo Creek.—Permanent running water.

6.67.

Pueblo Creek.—Permanent water in holes.

5.98.

Pueblo Creek.—Permanent water in holes.

5.80.

Cañon Creek.—Permanent water in holes.

12.16.

Cañon Creek.—Permanent water in holes.

0.30.

Cañon Creek.—Water in holes.

11.29.

Cañon Creek.—Water in holes.

9.64.

Cactus Pass.—Permanent running water.

7.97.

White Cliff Creek.—Permanent running water.

11.60.

Big Horn Springs.—Permanent spring.

КАНЬОН НА РУКАВЕ БИЛЛА УИЛЬЯМСА.

12.83.

Mouth of Cañon Creek.—Permanent running water.

9.21.

"Big Sandy" Creek.—Permanent running water.

4.35.

"Big Sandy" Creek.—Permanent running water.

6.21.

"Big Sandy" Creek.—Permanent running water.

4.08.

"Big Sandy" Creek.—Permanent running water.

6.10.

"Big Sandy" Creek.—Permanent running water.

5.56.

"Big Sandy" Creek.—Permanent running water.

6.44.

Mouth of Big Sandy Creek.—Permanent running water as far as the Colorado River.

6.52.

Rio Santa Maria.

8.97.

Rio Santa Maria.

6.85.

Rio Santa Maria.

7.22.

Rio Santa Maria.

3.90.

Rio Santa Maria.

8.69.

Rio Santa Maria.

4.33.

Mouth of Rio Santa Maria.

4.74.

On Colorado River.

5.02.

On Colorado River.

9.06.

On Colorado River.

11.39.

On Colorado River.

29.87.

On Colorado River.

ПИК АРТИЛЕРИИ.

1.02.

Mojave Villages.

9.46.

Crossing of the Colorado River.

0.33.

On Colorado River.

2.78.

On Colorado River.

20.71.

..........—The road, on leaving the Colorado, runs up over a gravelly ridge to a barren niesa, and descends the bed of the Mojave 4 or 5 miles above its mouth, and at 9-1/2 miles it passes springs near the point where the road turns around the western base of a mountain. There is no water at the camp, but grass in an arroya.

9.00.

Pai-Uté Creek.—This is a fine stream, with good water and grass.

13.00.

Arroyo.—Grass and wood; water is found by digging.

7.00.

Fine Spring.—Good water and grass. The wagon-road passes around the hills, but an Indian trail leads through the ravine where the spring is.

19.00.

Marl Spring.—This is a small but constant spring; excellent grass, and greasewood for fuel.

30.00.

Lake.—The road follows a ridge for some distance, then descends to an arroyo, and in a few miles emerges into a sandy plain, where there is the dry bed of a lake, which is firm, and makes a smooth, good road. The camp is at some marshy pools of water. Good grass, and greasewood for fuel.

12.00.

Mojave River.—Road passes through a valley of drifted sand, and at the camp strikes the river, which is here a beautiful stream of fresh water, 10 to 12 feet wide and a foot deep, with a hard, gravelly bottom. Grass in the hills near.

13.00.

Mojave River.—The road ascends the river, the banks of which are covered with fine grass and mesquite wood. Good camps along here.

20.00.

Mojave River.—The road leads up the river for a short distance, when it turns into an arroyo, and ascends to a low mésa, and continues along the border of a level prairie covered with fine bunch-grass. It then enters the river bottom again, which is here several miles wide, and well wooded. Grass good.

20.00.

Mojave River.—Six miles from camp the road strikes the Mormon road, and crosses the stream near a Mormon camping-place. The trail runs along the river, which gets larger and has more timber on its banks as it is ascended. Good grass, wood, and water.

22.00.

Mojave River.—A short distance from camp the valley contracts, but the road is good. It leaves the valley and crosses a gravelly ridge, but enters it again. Good grass, wood, and water.

15.00.

Mojave River.—Road continues along the right bank of the river, in a southwest course, and crosses the river at camp. Good wood, water, and grass.

29.50.

Cajou Creek.—The road leaves the river at the crossing, and runs toward a break in the San Bernadino Mountains; it ascends a sharp hill and enters a cedar thicket; it then ascends to the summit of the Cajou Pass; thence over a spur of the mountains into an arroyo or creek in a ravine; thence along the dry channel of the Cajou Creek for two miles, where the water begins to run, and from thence the road is rough to camp.

7.00.

Cajou Creek.—Road continues along the creek to camp, and is rough. Wood, water, and grass at camp.

20.00.

Cocomouga's Ranch.—On a pretty stream of running water. The road runs for six miles down the Cajou Creek, along its steep and rocky bed. It is here a good-sized stream. Captain Whipple's road here leaves the San Bernadino road, and turns to the west along the base of the mountains toward Los Angeles; it then crosses a prairie and strikes the ranch of Cocomouga. Wood, water, and grass.

24.00.

Town of El Monté.—The road runs upon the northern border of a basin which is watered by many small streams, and is settled. The camp is on the pretty stream of San Gabriel, where there is a good camping-place.

14.25.

City of Los Angeles.—The road passes the Mission of San Gabriel, then enters a ravine among hills and broken ground; it then descends and crosses the river which waters the valley, and enters the city. There is a good camp upon the point of a ridge on the left bank of the river.

23.00.

San Pedro.—Good camp.

XXI.— От Форт-Юмы до Бенисии, Калифорния. Из отчета лейтенанта Р. С. Уильямсона.

[Расстояния указаны в милях и сотых долях мили.]

Miles.

Fort Yuma, on Rio Colorado, to

6.51.

Pilot Knob.

5.06.

Algodones.

11.18.

Cook's Wells.

21.11.

Alamo Mocho.

14.16.

Little Laguna.

10.29.

Big Laguna.

12.92.

Forks of Road.—The left-hand road leads to San Diego, 139.94 miles, the right-hand to San Francisco.

17.62.

Salt Creek.

28.94.

Water in the Desert.—Below point of rocks.

12.60.

Cohuilla Village.

15.82.

Deep Well.

10.62.

Hot Spring.

7.36.

East base of San Gorgonio Pass.

18.29.

Summit of Pass.

27.10.

San Bernadino.—Mormon town.

17.60.

Sycamore Grove.

14.00.

Qui-qual-mun-go Ranch.

26.60.

San Gabriel River.—At crossing.

6.70.

Mission of San Gabriel.

9.00.

Los Angeles.

10.20.

Cahuengo Ranch.—At the crossing of a branch of Los Angeles River.

10.70.

Mission of San Fernando.

5.90.

Summit of San Fernando Pass.

7.15.

Santa Clara River, southeast fork.

15.80.

Summit of Coast Range.—In San Francisquito Pass.

18.00.

Eastern base of Sierra Nevada.

6.70.

Summit of Tejon Pass.

13.10.

Dépôt Camp in the Tejon.

31.00.

Kern River.—At the crossing.

10.80.

Dépôt Camp on Pose Creek, or "O-co-ya."

24.30.

White Creek.

14.90.

More's Creek.

5.10.

Tulé River.

22.00.

Deep Creek.—Deep Creek is the first of four creeks, crossed by the wagon-road, into which the "Pi-pi-yu-na" divides itself after emerging from the Sierra. These streams are commonly known as the "Four Creeks."

0.29.

Cameron Creek.—The second of the "Four Creeks."

3.30.

Kah-wee-ya River.—The third and principal one of the "Four Creeks."

0.89.

St. John's Creek.—The last of the "Four Creeks." At the crossing.

28.13.

Pool's Ferry.—On King's River.

12.32.

Slough of King's River.

25.73.

Fort Miller.—On San Joaquin River, in the foot-hills of the Sierra Nevada.

9.40.

Cottonwood Creek.

7.72.

Fresno River.

12.15.

Chowchilla River.—Sometimes known as "Big Mariposa."

10.39.

Mariposa River.

6.03.

Bear Creek.

18.33.

Merced River.

18.87.

Davis's Ferry.—Tuolumne River.

28.85.

Grayson.—A ferry on the San Joaquin River.

27.54.

Elk Horn.—The distance is by the wagon-road, and is circuitous.

6.90.

Summit of Livermore Pass.

7.20.

Egress from Livermore Pass.

40.42.

Martinez.—On the Straits of Carquives, opposite Benicia, California.

Общая дистанция от Форт-Юмы до Бенисии — 800,45 мили.

XXII.— Новый маршрут от Форт-Бриджера до Кэмп-Флойда, проложенный капитаном Дж. Х. Симпсоном, Армия США, в 1858 году.

Miles.

Fort Bridger to

6.

Branch of Black's Fork.—Wood, water, and grass.

7-1/4.

Cedar on Bluffs of Muddy.—Grass and wood all the way up the ravine from the Muddy, and water at intervals.

5-1/2.

Last water in ravine after leaving the Muddy.—Wood, water, and grass.

5-3/4.

East Branch of Sulphur Creek.—Wood, water, and grass. Junction of Fort Supply road.

1/2.

Middle Branch of Sulphur Creek.—Sage, Water, and grass.

3.

West Branch of Sulphur Creek.—Willow, water, and grass; spring a mile below.

5-1/4.

East Branch of Bear River.—Wood, water, and grass.

1/4.

Middle Branch of Bear River.—Wood, water, and grass.

2-3/4.

Main Branch of Bear River.—Wood, water, and grass.

9-3/4.

First Camp on White Clay Creek.—Wood, water, and grass.

5-1/4.

White Clay Creek.—Wood, water, and grass.

15.

White Clay Creek.—Good camps all along the valley of White Clay Creek.

3/4.

Commencement of Cañon.—Wood, water, and grass.

1/2.

White Clay Creek.—Good camps all along the valley of White Clay Creek to the end of the lower cañon.

12.

Weber River.—Wood, water, and grass.

6.

Parley's Park Road.—Wood, water, and grass. Pass over the divide.

3-3/4.

Silver Creek.—Willows, water, and grass.

6.

Timpanogos Creek.—Wood, water, and grass. Cross over the divide.

1.

Commencement of Cañon.—Wood, water, and grass.

24-1/2.

Cascade in Cañon.—Good camps at short intervals all along Timpanogos Cañon.

4-1/4.

Mouth of Cañon.—Wood and water.

6-1/4.

Battle Creek Settlement.—Purchase forage.

3-1/4.

American Fork Settlement.—Purchase forage.

3.

Lehi (town).—Purchase forage. Grass near.

2-3/4.

Bridge over Jordan.—Grass and water; wood in the hills 1-1/2 miles distant.

14.

Camp Floyd.—Wood, water, and grass.

Total distance from Fort Bridger to Camp Floyd, 155 miles.

Примечание.—Капитан Симпсон говорит, что эта колесная дорога гораздо лучше старой по уклону, наличию дров, воды и травы, а по расстоянию примерно такая же.

XXIII.— От Форт-Торна, Нью-Мексико, до Форт-Юмы, Калифорния.

[Расстояния указаны в милях и сотых долях мили.]

Miles.

Fort Thorne, N.M., to

14.30.

Water Holes.—One mile west of hole in rock. Water uncertain; no wood.

9.19.

Mule Creek.—-Water at all seasons a little up the creek; wood plenty.

12.00.

Cook's Spring.—Water sufficient for camping; mesquite bushes on the hills.

19.50.

Rio Mimbres.—Water and wood abundant.

16.30.

Ojo de la Vaca.—Water and wood.

12.00.

Spring.—Constant small streams two miles up the cañon; water at the road uncertain.

44.40.

Rancho.—Pond of brackish water one mile to the right, four miles before reaching here.

13.90.

Rio St. Simon.—Constant water a few miles up, and mesquite wood.

18.40.

Pass in the Mountains.—Water on the left about two miles after entering the Pass.

6.40.

Arroya.—Wood one mile up; water uncertain; small stream crossing the road 1-1/2 miles from last camp.

26.30.

Nugent's Spring.—Large spring.—Excellent water one mile south, at Playa St. Domingo.

17.20.

Cañon.—To the left of the road. Water 1-1/2 miles up the canon, two miles from the road.

17.00.

Rio San Pedro.—Water and wood abundant.

16.30.

San Pedro.—Water abundant; wood distant.

20.80.

Cienequilla.—Water and wood abundant.

7.30.

Along Cienequilla.—Water and wood abundant; road rough.

21.80.

Mission of San Xavier.—Large mesquite, and water plenty in Santa Cruz River.

8.00.

Tucson.—Village on Santa Cruz River. Tucson is the last green spot on the Santa Cruz River. The best camping-ground is two miles beyond the village, where the valley widens, and good grass and water are abundant.

7.20.

Mud Holes.—The road passes over arroyas, but is rather level.

65.00.

Agua Hermal.—Road passes over a desert section, and is hard and level. Water is found in most seasons, except in early summer, in natural reservoirs on an isolated mountain about midway, called "Picapo;" poor water and tall, coarse grass at the mud-holes. Road here strikes the Rio Gila.

15.10.

Los Pimos.—Road follows the river bottom. Lagoon of bad water near camp. Grass good; plenty of cottonwood and mesquite.

13.20.

Los Maricopas.—Road takes the river bottom, and passes through cultivated fields; soil and grass good. The Indian village is on a gravelly hill. The road is good.

40.00.

El Tegotal.—The road leaves the river and crosses the desert. No water between this and the last camp at the Maricopas' village. Road is good. The calita abounds here, and the mules are fond of it.

10.50.

Pega del Rio.—Road runs in the river bottom, and is level.

Rincon de Vega.—Road runs in the river bottom, and is level. Good grass.

10.50.

Mal Pais.—Road continues near the river, but over low gravel-hills and through a short cañon of deep sand.

9.50.

Mil Flores.—Pass over a very steep precipice to an elevated plateau, thence over gravel-hills 4-1/2 miles to camp, where there is excellent grass and wood.

13.70.

Santado.—Road keeps the river bottom until within four miles of camp, when it turns over the plateau. Good grass.

16.70.

Las Lonas.—Road follows the river bottom. Scattered bunch-grass on the hills.

11.40.

Vegas.—Road follows along the river bottom. Grass poor.

16.80.

Metate.—Road runs along at the foot of a rugged mountain. Excellent grass at the camp.

14.70.

El Horral.—Road ascends to the plateau, which it follows for seven miles over a level country, then descends over gravelly hills to the river. Camp on the river bank near the desert. Wood plenty.

20.80.

Los Algodones.—Road runs along at the foot of the hills or spurs of the desert; small rugged hills, vegetation dwarf mesquit, cacti, etc. Good grass at camp.

7.40.

Fort Yuma, on the Rio Colorado.

Total distance from Fort Thorne, N.M., to Fort Yuma, 571 miles.

XXIV.— Маршрут лейтенанта Брайана от Ларамийской переправы через Южный Платт до Форт-Бриджера через перевал Бриджера.

Miles.

Laramie Crossing to

14.

Bryan's Crossing.—Road runs on the south side of the Platte. Good grass and water.

12.

First Crossing of Pole Creek.—Pole Creek is a rapid stream, sandy bed, 15 feet wide, and two feet deep. Good grass on the creek, and wood three miles off on the bluffs.

37.

Second Crossing of Pole Creek.—Road runs along the creek. Good grass and good camps at any point. Good road.

17-1/4.

Third Crossing of Pole Creek.—Good camp. Wood on the bluffs.

20-1/2.

Fourth Crossing of Pole Creek.—Creek dry for three miles. Good grass.

20-1/4.

Bluffs covered with dead pines.—Creek is crossed several times. Road runs over a rough, broken country. Good grass.

14-1/2.

Road from Fort Laramie to New Mexico.—Road rather rough. The valley opens out into a wide plain. Plenty of grass.

10-1/2.

On Pole Creek.—Good road; good camp.

20.

On Pole Creek.—Road crosses several ravines, most of which can be avoided by keeping on the bluffs; the valley is narrow. Grass not very good.

17-1/2.

Cheyenne Pass.—Road passes over a rolling country. Good grass; willows for fuel. Military post established here.

14-1/2.

Summit of Black Hills.—Source of Pole Creek. Grass poor.

10-1/4.

East Fork of Laramie River.—Good camp.

16.

West Fork of Laramie River.—Good camp. Cherokee trail comes in here.

14.

Cooper's Creek.—Wood and grass.

10-1/2.

East Fork of Medicine Bow Creek.—Wood and grass as far as Pass Creek.

2-1/2.

Small Creek.

6.

Birch Creek.

5-1/4.

West Fork of Medicine Bow Creek.

2.

Flint's Creek.

3.

Elm Creek.

7.

Rattlesnake Creek.

5.

Pass Creek.

14-1/2.

North Fork of the Platte.—Good road over high prairie. Five miles before reaching the river the Cherokee trail turns to the left, and crosses three miles above. Good camps on the river.

3-1/2.

First Crossing of Sage Creek.—Good road. Grass not plenty.

10-1/2.

Second Crossing of Sage Creek.—Road runs through Sage Creek Valley; hilly, broken, and sterile country, covered with sage-brush. Grass not abundant. Cherokee trail leaves three miles back.

4.

Third Crossing of Sage Creek.—Road continues through sage-brush. Grass gets better.

3.

Fourth Crossing of Sage Creek.—Good grass, wood, and water.

9.

Bridger's Pass.—Road runs over a hilly country, crossing several small branches, with a little grass upon their banks; country covered with sage.

3-1/2.

Muddy Creek.—The valley of the "Muddy" is deep and narrow at first, and afterward opens out. The crossings of this creek were either bridged or paved by the troops in 1858. But little grass in this valley.

20-1/2.

Near Muddy Creek.—Very little grass; poor camp.

16-1/2.

Bridger's Fork of the Muddy Creek.—The road for thirteen miles runs over a rolling country, then over a rough, broken country, with deep ravines. No water in this fork in a dry season; small springs of brackish water near the crossing. Grass poor.

4.

Small Spring.—Water bad; grass poor.

2-1/2.

Small Spring.—In the bluff. Water bad; grass poor.

1.

Haystack.—Clay butte. Spring in the dry bed of the creek. Bunch-grass.

5-1/2.

Small Springs.—In bluffs on the right of the road. Grass poor and water bad.

7-1/2.

Springs.—There is a fine spring at the foot of a steep hill on the south side of the road. Very little grass; rushes on the creek.

3-1/2.

South Fork of Bitter Creek.—Good grass and water.

14-3/4.

On Bitter Creek.—Country hilly, and intersected with deep ravines. South Fork is a fine stream of good water.

16.

Sulphur Springs.—Road very hilly, crossing many deep ravines. Grass and sage plenty.

9.

Bitter Creek Crossing.—No grass at the crossing. Water bitter when the creek is down, but tolerable in high water. Road rough, with numerous ravines.

18-1/2.

North Fork of Bitter Creek.—Cherokee trail enters near the crossing. Road good, but little grass except in spots. Sage for fuel.

4.

Bluffs.—Springs of good water in the elevated bluffs on the right of the road in the cottonwood groves. Grass good and abundant at the base of the bluffs.

11-3/4.

Green River.—Road is very rough and hilly, and winds along the valley of the creek. Good camp on the river, with plenty of wood and grass.

15-3/4.

Crossing of Black's Fork.—Road runs up through Rabbit Hollow, which is steep and sandy; it then passes over rolling prairie to Black's Fork. Bunch-grass on the hills, and good camp at the crossing.

11-1/4.

Fort Laramie Road.—Rolling country; good road through sage bushes. Good camps along the creek.

5-3/4.

Ham's Fork.—Good camp on either side of the creek. United States bridge here; good road.

3/4.

Black's Fork Crossing.—Good ford except in high water, when the right-hand road on the north bank of the creek is generally traveled.

14-1/2.

Fourth Crossing of Black's Fork.—Good road; fine camp; plenty of wood, water, and grass.

2-3/4.

Fifth Crossing of Black's Fork.—Good camp; good road.

2-3/4.

Smith's Fork.—Good camp; good road.

11-3/4.

Fort Bridger.—Good camp near; good road.

Общая дистанция от Ларамийской переправы через Южный Платт до Форт-Бриджера — 520 1/2 мили. По дороге через Форт-Ларами расстояние составляет 569 миль.

XXV.— Колесная дорога от Денвер-Сити, в устье Черри-Крик, до Форт-Бриджера, Юта.

Miles.

Denver City to

5.

Vasquez Fork.—Good road and fine camp.

19-1/2.

Thompson's Fork.—Road crosses three creeks about five miles apart, is good, and the camp is well supplied with water and grass, but wood is scarce.

16-1/2.

Bent's Fork.—Road crosses two streams about five miles apart; no wood on the first. Good camp.

26.

Cashe la Poudre River.—Excellent road crossing two streams at ten and twenty-three miles from the last camp; good camps on both. Cashe la Poudre is a fine large stream which issues from the mountains near the road, and is difficult to cross in high water. It has a firm bottom. Good camps along this stream, with plenty of wood and grass.

16.

Beaver Creek.—Road turns to the left and enters the hills, ascending very gradually between two lines of bluffs, and is good except in wet weather. Good camp.

19.

Small Branch.—Road crosses Beaver Creek three times, affording good camps. Road is hilly, but not very rough, passing for a portion of the distance through a timbered region. Elk and mountain sheep are abundant in this section. The camp is near the summit of the divide. Grass short.

17-1/2.

Tributary of Laramie River.—Good road on the divide. Grass and water plenty, but wood not abundant.

18-1/2.

Tributary of Laramie River.—Road passes Laramie Fork three miles from the last camp. Good camp.

21.

Tributary of Laramie River.—Road crosses a small creek at 14 miles from last camp. Fine camp.

17.

Medicine Bow Creek.—At twelve miles the road crosses Sulphur Spring Creek, and at the West Fork of the Laramie Lieutenant Bryan's road enters. At ten miles from the last camp there are two roads—one, Bryan's, leading north of the Medicine Bow Butte, and the other to the south of it. The former is the best. Good camp.

17-1/2.

Prairie Creek.—Fine camp. A portion of the road is very rough. It crosses several small branches upon which good camps may be had. Fine game section, with bear, elk, etc., in great abundance.

12-1/2.

North Fork of the Platte.—Excellent camp. Leave Bryan's road four miles back, taking the left, which is altogether the best of the two. The crossing of the Platte is good except in high water, when it is very rapid. A flat-boat was left here by Colonel Loring's command in 1858.

12-1/2.

Clear Creek.—Sage for fuel; grass short.

23.

Dry Creek.—Road leaves Bryan's trail to Bridger's Pass, and bears to the right, passing over a smooth country covered with sage and poorly watered; passes a pond of milky water at thirteen miles. There is water in Dry Creek except in a very dry season. Two miles from the creek, on the old trail, there is a fine spring on the left of the road, which runs down into the road, and here is the best grass after leaving the Platte, with plenty of fuel.

10-1/2.

Muddy Creek.—Road leaves the old Cherokee trail at Dry Creek, and bears to the left. Good camp for a limited number of animals; fine grass along near the bank of the creek. Bad crossing. Buffalo seen here.

19-1/2.

Lake.—Old trail enters near this camp. Road passes a brackish spring four miles back. The road may be shortened by bearing to the left and skirting the hills for about six miles before reaching the lake. The water in the lake is not good, but drinkable, and will be abundant except in the very dryest part of the summer. Grass is good on the hills. The road from Dry Creek is shorter than the old road by 30 miles.

24-1/2.

Red Lakes.—Road is good, but traverses a very dry and sterile region. The water is not good in the lakes, but drinkable, and may go dry in midsummer. Grass tolerable.

22.

Seminoes Spring.—After passing the flats at the Red Lakes the road is smooth and good, and there is a good camp at Seminoes Spring.

12-1/2.

Bitter Creek.—New road to the left, cutting off ten or twelve miles. Good camp; water a little saline, but drinkable.

25.

Sulphur Spring.—Road runs along the valley of Bitter Creek, where there is but little grass until reaching camp. Animals should be driven across the creek into the hills, where the best grass is found.

17.

Green River.—Road leaves Bitter Creek at Sulphur Spring, and passes near, some high bluffs, where there are small springs and good grass. Excellent camp at Green River. From here the road runs over the same track as Bryan's road to Fort Bridger. From all the information I have been able to obtain regarding Lieutenant Bryan's road from Sage Creek through Bridger's Pass, and thence down the Muddy Creek, I am inclined to believe that the road we traveled is much the best. It is said that Lieutenant Bryan's route from Bridger's Pass to Green River has a scarcity of grass. The water is brackish, and the supply limited, and may fail altogether in a dry season. The road passes through deep valleys and cañons, crossing muddy creeks and deep ravines. The creeks have been bridged and the ravines cut down so as to form a practicable road; but freshets will probably occur in the spring, which will destroy a great deal of the work, and may render the road impassable.—Lieutenant Duane's Notes.

The other road is for the greater part of the distance smooth, and has a sufficiency of grass in places, but the water may become scarce in a very dry season.

XXVI.— От Небраска-Сити на Миссури до Форт-Керни.

Небраска-Сити на реке Миссури является пунктом, откуда отправляется значительная часть припасов для армии в Юте, и один из подрядчиков, мистер Александер Мейджорс, отзывается об этом маршруте следующим образом: «Военная дорога от Форт-Ливенворта пересекает очень многие притоки реки Канзас: Солджер, Грассхоппер и т. д., — которые в любое время трудны для переправы. Мостов нет, либо их немного, и от них мало пользы. От Небраска-Сити до Форт-Керни, который является фиксированной точкой слияния всех дорог, идущих вверх по Платту, нам нужно переправиться всего через один сколько-нибудь значительный водный поток. Этот поток — Солт-Крик, ручей, который ныне вымощен на мелководном броде сплошным камнем.

«Здесь нет никакого другого ручья, который даже во время высокого паводка задержал бы караван хотя бы на один день. Опять же, на этом маршруте у нас имеется изобилие хороших пастбищ на каждом шагу до самого Форт-Керни. Маршрут от Небраска-Сити примерно на 100 миль короче до Форт-Керни, чем от Форт-Ливенворта: первый составляет менее 200 миль, а второй — около 300 миль».

From Nebraska City to Salt Creek is

40 miles.

From Salt Creek to Elm Creek is

60 "

From Elm Creek to Fort Kearney is

100 "

На всем протяжении маршрута имеется изобилие леса, воды и травы, а места для стоянок встречаются часто.

XXVII.— От Кэмп-Флойда, Юта, до Форт-Юниона, Нью-Мексико. Составлено полковником В. В. Лорингом, Армия США.

Miles.

Camp Floyd to

23.

Goshen.—The road runs through Cedar Valley; is level and good for 11 miles, to where the road forks. The left runs near the lake, and has good camps upon it. Thence to a fine spring, where there is a good camp, is 3 miles. Grass continues good to the camp near Goshen. Wood, water, and grass abundant.

14.

Salt Creek.—Road runs over a mountain in a direct course to a fine spring branch, which runs into Salt Creek at 3-1/2 miles, where is a good camp; thence through a meadow to a small branch 3 miles, striking the old Mormon road again opposite a mud fort, where there is a fine spring and good camp; thence into the valley of Salt Creek, where there are good camps.

18.

Pleasant Creek.—Near the last camp the road forks, one running to Nephi, a small Mormon village, the other to Salt Creek Cañon, which is the one to be taken. The road runs up the cañon 5 miles; thence up its small right-hand fork to a spring, 3 miles; thence to camp. Good camps can be found any where after crossing Salt Creek, with abundance of wood, water, and grass.

19-1/2.

Willow Creek.—Road at 6-1/2 miles passes a fine spring; half a mile farther is another spring, where the road forks. Take the right through a meadow; it is 3 or 4 miles shorter. To the crossing is 3 miles; thence to the main road again 3 miles; to the village of Ephraim 5 miles. Good camp.

12.

Lediniquint Creek.—At 6 miles pass Manti; thence to Salt and Sulphur Springs is 3 miles. Good camp, with a fine spring, wood, and grass.

15.

Lediniquint Creek.—Road passes over a rugged country for 4 miles, to a creek; thence one mile it crosses another creek; thence 2-1/2 miles up the creek, where there is a good camp. The road improves, and for 8 or 9 miles camps can be found by leaving the creek a short distance. The creek on which the camp is muddy, with narrow channel.

18.

Onapah Creek, or Salt Creek.—Road is good over a barren country to the pointed red hills near the entrance to Wasatch Pass, 7 miles. From the red hills cross Salt Creek 3 times in 4 miles; grass fair at 2d crossing; very good at 3d crossing, and a good camp. Road rough for 3 miles after leaving the creek. The road then enters a fine valley, with plenty of blue and bunch grass. Road is level to within a mile of the camp. Wood, water, and grass abundant at camp.

7-1/2.

Head of Branch of Salt Creek.—Road runs over a ridge at 2 miles, thence one mile to a small branch. Grass abundant. Road runs along the branch 3 miles; in places very rough, with some sand; ascends the entire distance, and the camp is very elevated. Good spring at camp.

5-3/4.

Salt Creek.—Road passes over a ridge 2-1/2 miles to a spring. Good camp at this spring. Colonel Loring worked the road at this place. It crosses the creek 6 times within the 5-3/4 miles. Good camp, with abundance of wood, water, and grass.

6-1/2.

Silver Creek.—Road traverses a rolling section, is good, passes several springs where there are good camps, and crosses several trails which lead from California to New Mexico.

17-1/2

Media Creek.—At two miles the road passes the dividing ridge between the waters of Salt Lake and Green River; thence two miles' descent to Shipley Creek, where is a good camp. For about a mile the road is rough, but then descends into an open plain where the road is good. The ground is rough about the camp, and covered with sage and greasewood. Two miles up the creek, near the cañon, is some grass, but it is not abundant here.

19-3/4.

St. Raphael Creek.—Road passes a rolling section for 5 miles; thence 1-1/2 mile to Garamboyer Creek, where there is a good camp; thence, with the exception of a short distance, the road is good to the Knobs, 9 miles, when it is broken for 4-1/2 miles. Good camp.

11-3/4.

San Matio Creek.—For 3 miles the road is over a rolling section, with steep hills, to a creek, where is a good camp; thence, for 3 miles along the creek, soft soil and heavy road; thence 5 miles to another creek, some grass, but not plenty; thence to camp the road is rough in places. Good camp.

14-1/4.

In the Hills.—Road runs over a rolling country 2-1/2 miles to San Marcos, or Tanoje Creek, where there is good grass and water, with sage. Two miles farther over a gravelly road, then a good plain road for 9-3/4 miles to camp. Good wood, water, and grass.

23.

Spring.—Road for the first ten miles is rocky, when it strikes a spring, where there is a good camp; thence 2 miles to water in a tank, not permanent; thence the road is on a ridge for 6 miles, and is good; thence 3 miles the road is sandy. The spring at camp is large, with plenty of wood, but the grass is scarce. Down the creek it is more abundant.

18.

Green River.—For 5 miles the road is sandy; thence the road is good for the remainder of the distance to camp, where there is plenty of wood, water, and grass.

13.

13-Mile Spring.—Green River can be forded at ordinary stages. Road runs among several arroyas for a few miles, and is then straight and good to camp. Good grass a mile to the east of camp.

An Arroya.—Road runs between two rocky buttes, and strikes the Mormon trail, which leaves Green River at the same place, but is very tortuous. Water not permanent here; good grass three fourths of a mile from camp.

20-1/4.

Cottonwood Creek.—Road passes over a broken country to a water-hole, 9 miles; grass abundant; thence there is sand in places: crosses several arroyas. Camp is between two mountains. Wood, water, and grass abundant.

12.

Grand River.—Road is over a rolling country; in places light sand and heavy for wagons. Good camp.

13.

Grand River.—Road is rolling and sandy. The Mormon road runs nearer the mountains, and Colonel Loring thinks it is better than the one he traveled. Good camp.

16-3/4.

1-1/2 mile from Grand River.—The first 3 miles is level, then the road passes over a very elevated ridge, and descends into the valley. Grand River runs through a cañon, and can not be reached with the animals. Road in places sandy. Good camp.

9-1/2.

Grand River.—At two miles strike Salt Creek, where the Mormon road passes up a dry creek toward Gray Mountain. Road skirts the mountains along Grand River, and is rough in places, passing over abrupt hills. Good camp.

16-3/4.

Grand River.—Road runs over a level and firm section, with good camps at any point along the river. Cross the Mormon and other trails. Good ford at the crossing except in high water. Good camp.

18-1/2.

On an Arroya.—Road runs over an undulating surface, crossing several small streams issuing from Elk Mountain, affording good camps at almost any place, and strikes Marcy's and Gunnison's trails. Good camp.

15-1/4.

Grand River.—Rolling country; high ridges with abrupt slopes for 6-1/4 miles; thence into a plain for 7-1/4 miles to Double Creek. Good camps.

12.

Oncompagre River.—Good ford except in high water. At 6 miles cross a dry creek; thence 3 miles over a high, level, and firm road; strike a large trail; descend a hill with gentle slope into the Valley of Oncompagre, where there are fine camps. Winter resort for Uté Indians.

14-1/2.

Oncompagre River.—Road runs along the valley of the Oncompagre, is good, and camps may be found at any point, with plenty of wood, water, and grass.

13.

Cedar Creek.—Road leaves the Oncompagre, and bears to the east up Cedar Creek to the gap in the mountains, 6 miles; thence up the valley of Cedar Creek to camp, where are wood, water, and grass. The Gap is the first opening in the mountains above the mouth of the Oncompagre.

8-3/4.

Devil's Creek.—Road runs to the head of Cedar Creek, over the divide, into the valley of Devil's Creek, and is rough, with a steep descent. Camp is near a narrow cañon called Devil's Gate, with high perpendicular bluffs. Good camp.

3.

North Fork of Devil's Creek.—Road very rocky, and worked by Colonel Loring. Marcy's and Gunnison's trails pass here. Good camp.

7-3/4.

Cebola Creek.—Road passes over abrupt hills covered with pine. Good camp.

5-1/2.

Ruidos Creek.—Road rough, with abrupt ascents and descents. Fine creek 5 feet wide, and good camp.

13.

Grand River.—Road rather smooth for the first 3 miles, then rough and rocky, crossing several creeks, and descending into the valley of the Grand or Eagle-tail River, where is a good camp. Plenty of brook trout in all the streams in this section.

14-1/2.

Grand River.—Road crosses the river three times; bottom wide; grass and wood abundant. Cross several beautiful streams, upon which are good camps. Some sand and rough places, but generally good road. Game and brook trout abundant in this region. Indians resort to this section a great deal.

18.

Cutebetope Creek.—At about 5 miles the Cutebetope Creek enters, forming at the confluence a beautiful valley, which the road crosses, and strikes the creek near the Point of Rocks, where the valley is only 40 yards wide, but after passing the Point it opens again. The course of the creek is nearly north. Good camps.

20.

Spring near Beaver Creek.—Road crosses several small creeks, where are good camping-places. Good camp.

16-3/4.

Sawatch Creek.—Road runs over a very rough and mountainous section for 14 miles to the summit of the Rocky Mountains; thence it descends to camp, where grass, wood, and water are abundant.

21-1/2.

Sawatch Creek.—Road rough and rocky in places; strikes the main Sawatch Creek at 9-1/2 miles; crosses numerous small branches, where are grass, wood, and good water in abundance.

25-1/2.

Camero Creek.—Road for 7 miles, to Sawatch Buttes, is good; thence 1-1/2 mile to the last crossing of the Sawatch, where is a good camping-place. Good camp at Camero Creek.

3-1/2.

Garita Creek.—Good road and good camp.

16-1/2.

Rio Grande.—Road level and good. Good camps along the river at almost any point.

6.

Rio Grande.—Good road and camp.

17-1/2.

Fort Garland, Hay Camp.—Road continues down the river, and is good. For six miles there is timber, but after this willow is the only wood to camp. Good road. Hay is cut at this place for Forts Massachusetts and Garland.

16.

Culebra Creek.—At 4-3/4 miles cross Trinchera Creek, where is a good camp. Road rather sandy. Good camps any where on Culebra Creek.

24-3/4.

Latos Creek.—Road tolerable to Costilla Creek, 10-3/4 miles. Good camp.

14.

Ascequia, near Lama Creek.—Road crosses several small branches. At 9-1/2 miles strike Red River. Grass at camp good, but not abundant.

19-3/4.

Meadow near Indian Puebla.—At 6 miles the road crosses the San Christobal; thence over another ridge into the valley of the Rio Hondo. Camp 2 miles from Taos.

2.

Taos, New Mexico.—Good road. At Taos are several stores, where goods of all descriptions can be had at fair prices.

13.

Taos Creek Cañon.—Road passes through the settlement, where grain and vegetables can be obtained. It then enters the Taos Cañon at 3 miles, and crosses the Cañon Creek frequently to camp. Good camp.

29.

Gaudelapepita.—At 5 miles the road ascends to the dividing ridge, and is tolerable; thence in 4 miles cross the mountain, and reach a fine spring branch, where is a fine camp. Thence the road passes short ridges for 9 miles to Black Lake. Good camp.

Fort Union.—Road follows Coyote Cañon 3 miles; thence one mile to Mexican settlement; thence 19-1/2 miles over the prairie to the fort.

Полковник Лоринг прошел по маршруту от Кэмп-Флойда до Форт-Юниона с большим обозом фургонов. Однако он нашел дорогу во многих местах на горах весьма пересеченной, и она потребует проведения работ, прежде чем станет пригодной для общего движения с гружеными фургонами. Это отличный маршрут для летних путешествий с вьючными караванами, и он хорошо обеспечен необходимым для бивуаков.

От Форт-Юниона до Форт-Гарланда дорога проходит через обжитую местность, где в любое время можно приобрести по умеренным ценам запасы зерна и овощей, а небольшие селения встречаются почти на каждом дневном переходе, где в мелких лавках имеются такие товары, в которых нуждается путешественник.

XXVIII.— Колесная дорога от Гуаймаса, Нью-Мексико, до Тубака, Аризона. Из журнала капитана Стоуна.

Miles.

Guaymas to

10-1/4.

Rancho del Cavallo.—Good wood, water, and grass.

9.

Rancho de la Noche Buena.—Good wood and grass, but no water for animals in May and June.

19-5/8.

Rancho de la Cuneguinta.—Good wood, water, and grass the year round; water in tanks and wells.

15-3/4.

Rancho del Posito.—Good wood and grass the year round; water for men at all times, and for animals except in the months of May and June.

8.

Rancho de la Palma.—Wood, water, and grass at all times.

16-3/8.

Rancho de la Paza.—Good wood, water, and grass at all seasons.

16.

Hermosillo.—This is a town of 10,000 inhabitants, on Sonora River, where all supplies may be procured.

13.

Hacienda de Alamito.—Plenty of running water, wood, grass, and grain.

8.

Hacienda de la Labor.—Plenty of running water, grass, and grain.

28.

Rancho de Tabique.—Roughest part of the road, but not difficult for wagons. Wood, water, and grass. From Hermosillo to this place there is water at short intervals along the road.

36.

Rancho Querebabi.—Wood and grass; water in tanks.

12.

Barajita.—Small mining village. Bad water; good wood and grass.

13.

Santa Aña.—Village on the River San Ignacio. Plenty of wood, water, and grass.

12.

La Magdalena.—Thriving town, where all supplies can be procured.

5.

San Ignacio.—Village on the river. Good wood, water, and grass.

6-3/4.

Imuris.—Village on the river. Wood, water, and grass.

11-1/2.

Los Alisos Rancho.—Wood, water, and grass.

3-1/2.

La Casita.—Wood, water, and grass.

3-1/2.

Cíbuta.—Wood, water, and grass.

11-1/4.

Agua Zarca.—Wood, water, and grass.

23-1/4.

Rancho de las Calabasas.—Wood, water, and grass.

13.

Tubac.—Silver mines at this place.

Total distance from Guaymas to Tubac, 295 miles.

Примечание.—В течение месяцев июля, августа и сентября вода будет обнаруживаться практически в любой точке дороги от Ла-Каситы до Эрмосильо. Нет недостатка в дровах или траве ни на одном участке дороги от Гуаймаса до границы. Единственная трудность при устройстве бивуаков почти в любой точке дороги заключается в добывании воды в сухое сезонное время, т. е. с февраля по первое июля. Замечания для каждого пункта относятся к наиболее неблагоприятным сезонам.

ПРИЛОЖЕНИЕ.

A. Переносная лодка.

Полковником армии Р. С. Бьюкененом была изобретена лодка, которая использовалась в нескольких экспедициях в Орегоне и на территории Вашингтон и была высоко оценена несколькими опытными офицерами, имевшими возможность испытать ее достоинства в практических полевых условиях.

Она состоит из исключительно легкого каркаса из тонких и узких досок подходящей для упаковки длины, соединенных петлями; различные секции складываются в столь компактный объем, что их удобно перевозить на мулах. Каркас обтянут полотнищем прочного хлопчатобумажного брезента или парусины, прикрепленным к фальшбортам шнуром, который пропущен зигзагообразно туда и обратно через люверсы по верхнему краю.

При первом погружении в воду лодка немного протекает, но брезент вскоре разбухает настолько, что становится достаточно герметичной для всех практических целей. Большое преимущество, извлекаемое из применения этой лодки, заключается в том, что она настолько компактна и портативна, что великолепно приспособлена к требованиям походов в местности, где реки могут подниматься выше уровня брода и где нормы перевозки грузов невелики.

Ее можно собрать или разобрать и упаковать за очень считанные минуты, и для перевозки одной лодки со всеми ее принадлежностями, способной выдержать десять человек, достаточно одного мула.

Если брезент порвется, его легко починить наложением заплаты, и он не гниет и не трескается, подобно индийской резине или гуттаперче; кроме того, он не подвержен воздействию изменений климата или температуры.

B. Зимние путешествия.

При передвижении по глубокому снегу лошади окажутся намного лучше мулов, поскольку последние быстро теряют бодрость духа, ложатся и отказываются проявлять малейшее усердие, тогда как первые будут работать до тех пор, пока держатся их силы.

Когда снег сухой и не глубже 2,5 футов, лошади в хорошей кондиции идут по нему без особых трудностей и отбрасывают снег в стороны, прокладывая вполне приметную колею. Если лошадей несколько, их следует часто менять, так как нагрузка на ведущую лошадь очень тяжела. Когда снег глубже 2,5 футов, животным становится очень трудно пробираться сквозь него, и они быстро устают и выбиваются из сил. Лучший план при таких обстоятельствах (и именно его я принял при пересечении Скалистых гор, где снег лежал на земле от двух до пяти футов) — поставить всех имеющихся в распоряжении людей впереди животных для прокладывания тропы, требуя от них сменяться с передних позиций на задние через регулярные промежутки времени. Таким образом протаптывается колея, по которой животные проходят с относительной легкостью.

Когда снег доходит примерно до четырех футов, идущим впереди людям становится невозможно идти по нему в полный рост, и двое или трое из них вынуждены ползти на четвереньках, причем все следят за тем, чтобы ставить руки и ноги в те же лунки, которые были проделаны шедшими впереди. Это уплотняет снег настолько, что он выдерживает остальных, идущих в полный рост, а после прохода 20 или 30 человек он становится достаточно твердым, чтобы выдержать животных. Это, конечно, чрезвычайно трудоемкий и медленный процесс, но это единственная альтернатива, когда отряд оказывается посреди очень глубоких снегов в дикой местности. Животные, ступая по такой колее, о которой говорилось, быстро приобретают привычку ставить ноги в лунки, сделанные людьми; и в самом деле, если они собьются с шага или промахнутся мимо лунок, они упадут или провалятся по брюхо.

Ранней зимой, когда снег в Скалистых горах только выпадает, он настолько легок и сух, что снегоступы не могут использоваться с пользой. Мы испытали этот опыт при пересечении гор в декабре и январе, но обнаружили, что ходить по ним невозможно.

Если отряд в местности с глубоким снегом постигнет несчастье потерять своих животных от замерзания, путешествие не сможет продолжаться сколько-нибудь долгое время без выработки какого-либо способа транспортировки пропитания помимо переноски его на спинах людей, так как они не способны прокладывать тропу по глубокому снегу с таким грузом.

Следующий план представился мне наиболее целесообразным, и именно его я решил принять в случае гибели наших мулов быстрее, чем это требовалось для нашего пропитания при переходе через горы.

Взять ивовые или другие гибкие прутья и сделать длинные сани, меньшие по ширине, чем колея, закрепив поперечины сыромятными ремнями. Снять шкуры с животных и нарезать их на куски по размеру днища саней, закрепив их шерстью наверх. Привязать спереди сыромятный ремень для волочения, и сани готовы. В очень холодном климате шкура быстро замерзает, становится весьма прочной и легко скользит по снегу. Мясо и другие перевозимые предметы затем укладываются на сани так, чтобы не выступать за борта, и прочно привязываются. Лейтенант Крессвелл, откомандированный с корабля капитана Мак-Клюра в арктических районах в 1853 году, говорит, что его люди тащили по льду на волокушах по 200 фунтов каждый. Конечно, они не могли тянуть столько же по глубокому снегу, но считается, что они без труда смогли бы перевезти половину этого количества, чего было бы достаточно, чтобы уберечь их от голодной смерти по меньшей мере в течение пятидесяти дней.

Я вполне уверен, что отряд людей, оказавшийся среди глубоких снегов, полагающийся исключительно на собственные физические силы и оставшийся без вьючных животных, может продлить свою жизнь на более долгий срок, пройти дальше и выполнить больше работы, приняв изложенные выше предложения, чем любым другим способом.

C. Индейские сигналы.

Когда индейцев преследует крупные силы и они не намерены оказывать сопротивление, они обычно рассеиваются как можно сильнее, чтобы запутать и сбить с толку тех, кто идет по их следам, однако у них есть предварительная договоренность о месте сбора. Иногда, впрочем, в ходе стремительного бегства могут возникнуть обстоятельства, заставляющие их изменить эти планы и повернуть в другую сторону. Когда это происходит, они имеют обыкновение оставлять после себя понятные сигналы, указывающие их товарищам в арьергарде на изменение в их передвижениях.

Например, они иногда оставляют палку или другой предмет для привлечения внимания, а под ним зарывают стрелу, указывающую на новое направление, которое они намерены принять. Затем они продолжают путь некоторое время в прежнем направлении, пока не выйдут на твердый грунт, где их следы трудно заметить, после чего постепенно поворачивают в новую сторону.

КОНЕЦ.

ЭСКИЗ РАЗЛИЧНЫХ ДОРОГ.

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