Электронный текст подготовлен Джулиет Сазерленд (Juliet Sutherland), MandM и Проектом «Гутенберг» по обеспечению качества онлайн-корректуры (http://www.pgdp.net/)
ИЛИ
МАНЕРЫ, ПОВЕДЕНИЕ И ОДЕЖДА
В САМОМ ИЗЫСКАННОМ ОБЩЕСТВЕ;
INCLUDING
Forms for Letters, Invitations, Etc., Etc. Also, Valuable
Suggestions on Home Culture and Training.
COMPILED FROM THE LATEST RELIABLE AUTHORITIES,
СОСТАВИЛ
ДЖОН Х. ЯНГ (JOHN H. YOUNG, A.M.)
REVISED AND ILLUSTRATED.
F. B. DICKERSON & CO.,
DETROIT, MICH. ST. LOUIS, MO.
PENNSYLVANIA PUBLISHING CO., UNION PUBLISHING HOUSE, HARRISBURGH, PA.CHICAGO, ILL.
1881.
To go through this life with good manners possessed, Is to be kind unto all, rich, poor and oppressed, For kindness and mercy are balms that will heal The sorrows, the pains, and the woes that we feel.
COPYRIGHTED
BY
FREEMAN B. DICKERSON,
1879 and 1881.
Предисловие.
O one subject is of more importance to people generally than a knowledge of the rules, usages and ceremonies of good society, which are commonly expressed by the word "Etiquette." Its necessity is felt wherever men and women associate together, whether in the city, village, or country town, at home or abroad. To acquire a thorough knowledge of these matters, and to put that knowledge into practice with perfect ease and self-complacency, is what people call good breeding. To display an ignorance of them, is to subject the offender to the opprobrium of being ill-bred.
При составлении этой работы целью было представить обычаи и правила, которые управляют самым изысканным американским обществом, и дать те сведения, которые позволят любому человеку, при любых жизненных обстоятельствах, обрести безупричную непринужденность джентльмена либо мягкие манеры и изящную осанку благовоспитанной леди, чье присутствие будут искать и которые благодаря своему изящному поведению постигнут искусство чувствовать себя как дома в любом благородном обществе.
Работа устроена так, что каждая тема удобно классифицирована и подразделена; благодаря этому легко сразу обратиться к любой заданной теме. Задачей составителя было детально изложить все вопросы, которые подобающим образом охватывает труд по этикету, даже в отношении кажущихся маловажными подробностей. По некоторым доселе спорным вопросам приведены правила, которые подкреплены наилучшими авторитетами и одобрены здравым смыслом.
Поскольку этот труд не является авторством какого-то одного лица и поскольку никакой человек, какими бы познаниями он ни обладал, не может иметь дерзости диктовать правила поведения обществу в целом, утверждается лишь то, что это тщательная компиляция из всех лучших и новейших авторитетов по вопросу этикета и смежным темам, в то время как на ее страницах также заключен тот дополнительный материал, который, как мы надеемся, окажется полезным и интересным для каждого американского дома.
J.H.Y.
Оглавление.
CHAPTER I.
INTRODUCTORYPAGE. 13
CHAPTER II.
MANNERS.
Good manners as an element of worldly success—Manner an index of character—The true gentleman—The true lady—Importance of trifles—Value of pleasing manners—Personal appearance enhanced and fortunes made by pleasing manners—Politeness the outgrowth of good manners 20
CHAPTER III.
INTRODUCTIONS.
Acquaintances thus formed—Promiscuous, informal and casual introductions—Introduction of a gentleman to a lady and a lady to a gentleman—Introduction at a ball—The manner of introduction—Introducing relatives—Obligatory introductions—Salutations after introduction—Introducing one's self—Letters of introduction—How they are to be delivered—Duty of a person to whom a letter of introduction is addressed—Letters of introduction for business purposes 31
CHAPTER IV.
SALUTATIONS.
The salutation originally an act of worship—Its form in different nations—The bow, its proper mode—Words of salutation—Manner of bowing—Duties of the young to older people—How to avoid recognition—Etiquette of handshaking—Kissing as a mode of salutation—The kiss of friendship—The kiss of respect 42
CHAPTER V.
ETIQUETTE ON CALLS.
Morning calls—Evening calls—Rules for formal calls—Calls at Summer resorts—Reception days—Calls made by cards—Returning the first call—Calls after a betrothal takes place—Forming new acquaintance by calls—The first call, by whom to be made—Calls of Congratulation—Visits of condolence—Keeping an account of calls—Evening visits—"Engaged" or "not at home" to callers—General rules relative to calls—New Year's calls 52
CHAPTER VI.
ETIQUETTE ON VISITING.
General invitations not to be accepted—The limit of a prolonged visit—Duties of a visitor—Duties of the host or hostess—True hospitality—Leave-taking—Invitations to guests—Forbearance with children—Guests making presents—Treatment of a host's friends 69
CHAPTER VII.
ETIQUETTE OF CARDS.
Visiting and calling cards—Their size and style—Wedding cards—Leaving cards in calling—Cards for mother and daughter—Cards not to be sent in envelopes to return formal calls—Glazed cards not in fashion—P.P.C. cards—Cards of congratulation—When sent—Leave cards in making first calls of the season and after invitations—Mourning cards—Christmas and Easter cards—Cards of condolence—Bridegroom's card. 75
CHAPTER VIII.
CONVERSATION.
Character revealed by conversation—Importance of conversing well—Children should be trained to talk well—Cultivation of the memory—Importance of remembering names—How Henry Clay acquired this habit—Listening—Writing down one's thoughts—Requisites for a good talker—Vulgarisms—Flippancy—Sympathizing with another—Bestowing compliments—Slang—Flattery—Scandal and gossip—Satire and ridicule—Religion and politics to be avoided—Bestowing of titles—Interrupting another while talking—Adaptability in conversation—Correct use of words—Speaking one's mind—Profanity—Display of knowledge—Double entendres—Impertinent questions—Things to be avoided in conversation—Hobbies—Fault-finding—Disputes 84
CHAPTER IX.
DINNER PARTIES.
Dinners are entertainments for married people—Whom to invite—Forms of invitations—Punctuality required—The success of a dinner party—Table appointments—Proper size of a dinner party—Arrangement of guests at table—Serving dinner a la Russe—Duties of servants—Serving the dishes—General rules regarding dinner—Waiting on others—Monopolizing conversation—Duties of hostess and host—Retiring from the table—Calls required after a dinner party—Returning hospitalities—Expensive dinners not the most enjoyable—Wines at dinners 106
CHAPTER X.
TABLE ETIQUETTE.
Importance of acquiring good habits at the table—Table appointments for breakfast, luncheon and dinner—Use of the knife and fork—Of the napkin—Avoid fast eating and all appearance of greediness—General rules on the subject 123
CHAPTER XI.
RECEPTIONS, PARTIES AND BALLS.
Morning receptions—The dress and refreshments for them—Invitations—Musical matinees—Parties in the country—Five o'clock teas and kettle-drums—Requisites for a successful ball—Introductions at a ball—Receiving guests—The number to invite—Duties of the guests—General rules to be observed at balls—Some suggestions for gentlemen—Duties of an escort—Preparations for a ball—The supper—An after-call required 129
CHAPTER XII.
STREET ETIQUETTE.
The street manners of a lady—Forming street acquaintances—Recognizing friends in the street—Saluting a lady—Passing through a crowd—The first to bow—Do not lack politeness—How a lady and gentleman should walk together—When to offer the lady the arm—Going up and down stairs—Smoking in the streets—Carrying packages—Meeting a lady acquaintance—Corner loafers—Shouting in the street—Shopping etiquette—For public conveyances—Cutting acquaintances—General suggestions 145
CHAPTER XIII.
ETIQUETTE OF PUBLIC PLACES.
Conduct in church—Invitations to opera, theatres and concerts—Conduct in public assemblages—Remain until the performance closes—Conduct in picture galleries—Behavior at charity fairs—Conduct at an artist's studio 157
CHAPTER XIV.
TRAVELING ETIQUETTE.
Courtesies shown to ladies traveling alone—Duties of an escort—Duties of a lady to her escort—Ladies should assist other ladies traveling alone—The seats to be occupied in a railway car—Discretion to be used in forming acquaintances in traveling 167
CHAPTER XV.
RIDING AND DRIVING.
Learning to ride on horseback—The gentleman's duty as an escort in riding—How to assist a lady to mount—Riding with ladies—Assisting a lady to alight from a horse—Driving—The seat of honor in a carriage—Trusting the driver 174
CHAPTER XVI.
COURTSHIP.
Proper conduct of gentlemen and ladies toward each other—Premature declaration of love—Love at first sight—Proper manner of courtship—Parents should exercise authority over daughters—An acceptable suitor—Requirements for a happy marriage—Proposals of marriage—A gentleman should not press an unwelcome suit—A lady's refusal—A doubtful answer—Unladylike conduct toward a suitor—The rejected suitor—Asking consent of parents—Presents after engagement—Conduct and relations of the engaged couple—Lovers' quarrels—Breaking an engagement 179
CHAPTER XVII.
WEDDING ETIQUETTE.
Choice of bridemaids and groomsmen or ushers—The bridal costume Costumes of bridegroom and ushers—Presents of the bride and bridegroom—Ceremonials at church when there are no bridemaids or ushers—Invitations to the ceremony alone—The latest ceremonials—Weddings at home—The evening wedding—"At home" receptions—Calls—The wedding ring—Marriage ceremonials of a widow—Form of invitations to a reception—Duties of invited guests—Of bridemaids and ushers—Bridal presents—Master of ceremonies—Wedding fees—Congratulations—The bridal tour 194
CHAPTER XVIII.
HOME LIFE AND ETIQUETTE.
Home the woman's kingdom—Home companionship—Conduct of husband and wife—Duties of the wife to her husband—The wife a helpmate—The husband's duties 208
CHAPTER XIX.
HOME TRAINING.
First lessons learned at home—Parents should set good examples to their children—Courtesies in the home circle—Early moral training of children—The formation of their habits—Politeness at home—Train children for some occupation—Bad temper—Selfishness—Home maxims 216
CHAPTER XX.
HOME CULTURE.
Cultivate moral courage—The pernicious influence of indolence—Self-respect—Result of good breeding at home—Fault-finding and grumbling—Family jars not to be made public—Conflicting interests—Religious education—Obedience—Influence of example—The influence of books 225
CHAPTER XXI.
WOMAN'S HIGHER EDUCATION.
Its importance—Train young women to some occupation—Education of girls too superficial—An education appropriate to each sex—Knowledge of the laws of health needed by women—Idleness the source of all misery—A spirit of independence—Health and life dependent upon a higher culture—Cultivation of the moral sense 233
CHAPTER XXII.
THE LETTER WRITER.
Letter writing is an indication of good breeding—Requirements for correct writing—Anonymous letters—Note paper to be used—Forms of letters and notes—Forms of addressing notes and letters—Forms of signature—Letters of introduction—When to be given—Notes of invitation and replies thereto—Acceptances and regrets—Formal invitations must be answered—Letters of friendship—Love letters—Business letters and correspondence—Form of letter requesting employment—Regarding the character of a servant—Forms for notes, drafts, bills and receipts 242
CHAPTER XXIII.
GENERAL RULES TO GOVERN CONDUCT.
Attention to the young in society—Gracefulness of carriage—Attitude, coughing, sneezing, etc.—Anecdotes, puns, etc.—A sweet and pure breath—Smoking—A good listener—Give precedence to others—Be moderate in speaking—Singing and playing in society—Receiving and making presents—Governing our moods—A lady driving with a gentleman—An invitation cannot be recalled—Avoid talking of personalities—Shun gossip and tale bearing—Removing the hat—Intruding on privacy—Politeness—Adapting yourself to others—Contradicting—A woman's good name—Expressing unfavorable opinions—Vulgarities—Miscellaneous rules governing conduct—Washington's maxims 266
CHAPTER XXIV.
ANNIVERSARY WEDDINGS.
How and when they are celebrated—The paper, cotton and leather weddings—The wooden wedding—The tin wedding—The crystal wedding—The silver wedding—The golden wedding—The diamond wedding—Presents at anniversary weddings—Forms of invitations, etc. 285
CHAPTER XXV.
BIRTHS AND CHRISTENINGS.
Naming the child—The christening—Godparents or sponsors—Presents from godparents—The ceremony—The breakfast—Christening gifts—The hero of the day—Fees 291
CHAPTER XXVI.
FUNERALS.
Death notices and funeral invitations—Arrangement for the funeral—The house of mourning—Conducting the funeral services—The pall-bearers—Order of the procession—Floral and other decorations—Calls upon the bereaved family—Seclusion of the family 296
CHAPTER XXVII.
ETIQUETTE AT WASHINGTON.
Social duties required of the President and his family—Receptions at the White House—Order of official rank—Duties required of members of the cabinet and their families—How to address officials—The first to visit 303
CHAPTER XXVIII.
ETIQUETTE OF FOREIGN COURTS.
Foreign titles—Royalty—The nobility—The gentry—Esquires—Imperial rank—European titles—Presentation at the court of St. James—Those eligible and ineligible for presentation—Preliminaries—Presentation costumes 308
CHAPTER XXIX.
BUSINESS.
The example of a merchant prince—Keep your temper—Honesty the best policy—Form good habits—Breaking an appointment—Prompt payment of bills, notes and drafts—General suggestions 315
CHAPTER XXX.
DRESS.
Requirements for dressing well—Perils of the love of dress to weak minds—Consistency in dress—Extravagance—Indifference to dress—Appropriate dress—The wearing of gloves—Evening or full dress for gentlemen—Morning dress for gentlemen—Evening or full dress for ladies—Ball dresses—The full dinner dress—For receiving and making morning calls—Morning dress for street—Carriage dress—Promenade dress and walking suit—Opera dress—The riding dress—For women of business—Ordinary evening dress—For a social party—Dress for the theater, lecture and concert—Archery, croquet and skating costumes—Bathing dress—For traveling—The bridal costume—Dress of bridemaids—At wedding receptions—Mourning dress—How long mourning should be worn 320
CHAPTER XXXI.
COLORS AND THEIR HARMONY IN DRESS.
The proper arrangement of colors—The colors adapted to different persons—Material for dress—Size in relation to color and dress—A list of colors that harmonize 341
CHAPTER XXXII.
THE TOILET.
Importance of neatness and cleanliness—Perfumes—The bath—The teeth and their care—The skin—The eyes, eyelashes and brows—The hair and beard—The hands and feet 351
CHAPTER XXXIII.
TOILET RECIPES.
To remove freckles, pimples and sunburn—To beautify the complexion—To prevent the hair falling out—Pomades and hair oils—Sea foam or dry shampoo—To prevent the hair turning gray—To soften the skin—To cleanse the teeth—Remedy for chapped hands—For corns and chilblains, etc. 372
CHAPTER XXXIV.
SPORTS, GAMES AND AMUSEMENTS.
Archery and its practice—Lawn Tennis—Boating—Picnics—Private Theatricals—Card playing 398
CHAPTER XXXV.
LANGUAGE OF FLOWERS, 410
CHAPTER XXXVI.
PRECIOUS STONES, 423
ГЛАВА I.
Введение.
"Ingenious Art with her expressive face, Steps forth to fashion and refine the race."—Cowper.
KNOWLEDGE of etiquette has been defined to be a knowledge of the rules of society at its best. These rules have been the outgrowth of centuries of civilization, had their foundation in friendship and love of man for his fellow man—the vital principles of Christianity—and are most powerful agents for promoting peace, harmony and good will among all people who are enjoying the blessings of more advanced civilized government. In all civilized countries the influence of the best society is of great importance to the welfare and prosperity of the nation, but in no country is the good influence of the most refined society more powerfully felt than in our own, "the land of the future, where mankind may plant, essay, and resolve all social problems." These rules make social intercourse more agreeable, and facilitate hospitalities, when all members of society hold them as binding rules and faithfully regard their observance. They are to society what our laws are to the people as a political body, and to disregard them will give rise to constant misunderstandings, engender ill-will, and beget bad morals and bad manners.
Один выдающийся английский писатель говорит: «Мы вечно говорим о манерах, изысканности, правилах хорошего тона и даже формах этикета, сурово осуждаем ближних за нарушение традиционных и неписаных законов и выбираем общество и даже друзей по пробному камню учтивости». Маркиза де Ламбер выразила мнения, которые будут одобрены благовоспитанными людьми повсеместно, когда писала своему сыну: «Нет ничего более постыдного, чем умышленная грубость. Люди сочли необходимым, а также приятным объединиться ради общего блага; они установили законы, чтобы обуздать дурных; они договорились между собой об обязанностях в обществе и закрепили за исполнением этих обязанностей почетный характер. Честным человеком является тот, кто соблюдает их с наибольшей точностью, и примеры таковых умножаются соразмерно степени утонченности чести человека».
Первоначально джентльменом определялся тот, кто, не имея никакого дворянского титула, носил фамильный герб. И потомки многих ранних колонистов с большой гордостью и заботой сохраняют старые гербы, которые их предки принесли с собой из своих домов на родине. Хотя они и презирали титулы и игнорировали права королей, они все же цеплялись за «великое старое имя джентльмена». Но происхождение больше не является единственным требованием для джентльмена, равно как и происхождение в сочетании с ученостью и богатством не сделает мужчину джентльменом, если не присутствуют добрые и мягкие качества сердца, которые находят выражение в принципах золотого правила. Равным образом происхождение, образование и богатство в совокупности не сделают женщину истинной леди, если она обнаруживает недостаток изысканности и внимания к чувствам других.
Хорошие манеры приобретаются только посредством воспитания и наблюдения, подкрепляемых привычной практикой дома и в обществе, и хорошие манеры открывают нам леди и джентльмена. Тот, кто не обладает ими, даже если он носит высочайший дворянский титул, не может рассчитывать на то, что его назовут джентльменом; женщина же без хороших манер не может претендовать на то, чтобы леди считали ее леди. Манеры и мораль неразрывно связаны, и никакое общество не может быть хорошим, если они дурны. Долг американских женщин — проявлять свое влияние для формирования столь высокого стандарта морали и манеры, чтобы тенденция общества постоянно шла вверх, стремясь сделать его лучшим обществом среди всех наций.