Примечание переводчика:
Изображение на обложке было создано переводчиком и передано в общественное достояние.
КАРТИНА ОПУСТОШЕННЫХ ШТАТОВ И РАБОТА ПО ВОССТАНОВЛЕНИЮ. 1865–1868
BY J. T. TROWBRIDGE.
AUTHOR OF “NEIGHBOR JACKWOOD,” “CUDJO’S CAVE,” ETC.
HARTFORD, CONN.
PUBLISHED BY L. STEBBINS.
1868.
Entered, according to act of Congress, in the year 1868,
By L. STEBBINS,
in the Clerk’s Office of the District Court of Connecticut.
ПРЕДИСЛОВИЕ.
Летом 1865 года и следующей зимой я совершил две поездки на Юг, проведя четыре месяца в восьми основных штатах, которые недавно находились в состоянии мятежа. Я видел самые известные поля сражений этой войны. Я познакомился с офицерами и солдатами обеих сторон. Я шел по следам разрушительных армий. Я путешествовал по железной дороге, на пароходе, в дилижансе и на частном транспорте; встречаясь и беседуя с самыми разными людьми, от высших чиновников штата до «низовых» белых и негров; стремясь во всякое время и повсюду получить верное представление о стране, ее жителях, о только что завершившемся великом военном противостоянии и о еще не окончившемся великом противостоянии принципов.
Эта книга — результат тех поездок. Она представляет собой хронику реальных наблюдений и бесед, лишенную вымышленных прикрас. Истории о войне и ее опустошениях, которые мне рассказывали, были бы испорчены приукрашиванием; описания существующего положения дел, чтобы иметь ценность, должны быть правдивыми; и больше всего сейчас желательны не гипотезы или риторика, а свет простых фактов, пролитый на эпохальный вопрос нашего времени, который должен быть разрешен не в угоду каким-либо политическим или региональным предрассудкам, а на широких основаниях Истины и Вечной Справедливости.
Соответственно, я сделал свое повествование столь полным и буквальным по точности, сколь позволяли рамки этих страниц и мои собственные возможности. Где только это было возможно, я отходил в сторону и позволял людям, которых я встречал, говорить за самих себя. Заметки, сделанные на месте и при самых разных обстоятельствах — в седле, в трясущихся фургонах, при свете очага фермерского дома или негритянского лагеря, порой в темноте или под дождем, — позволили мне во многих случаях передать всё с абсолютной верностью. Беседы, которые невозможно было зафиксировать таким образом, записывались как можно скорее после их окончания, пока они еще свежи в моей памяти. Особенности идиоматической речи, которые часто столь выразительны для характера, я воспроизвел без преувеличения. У меня была привычка прямо заявлять интеллигентным и беспристрастным людям о своем намерении опубликовать отчет о моем путешествии, а затем, с их разрешения, записывать те взгляды и факты, которыми они считали нужным поделиться. Иногда меня просили не упоминать определенные заявления важного характера, сделанные в пылу беседы; их я, не без сожаления, опустил; и я верю, что ни в одном случае не нарушил доверия, которое мне было оказано.
Могу добавить, что записанные беседы носят в целом репрезентативный характер, будучи отобранными из сотен подобных; и если я уделил какому-то предмету кажущееся чрезмерное внимание, то лишь потому, что обнаружил в нем злободневную и универсальную тему для обсуждения.
May, 1866.
ОГЛАВЛЕНИЕ.
CHAPTER I.—The Start.
Harrisburg.—First Indications of War.—Reminiscences of Lee’s Invasion.—On to Gettysburg.—The Town and its Inhabitants.—The Hero of Gettysburg. Page 15
CHAPTER II.—The Field of Gettysburg.
Cemetery Hill.—Pivot of the Battle and of the War.—Culp’s Hill.—Rock Creek.—Cemetery at Sunset.—John Burns.—The Peach Orchard.—Devil’s Den and Little Round Top.—Round Top.—Meade’s Head-Quarters.—Woman’s Heroism and Humanity.—A Soldier and his Benefactor.—Harvest of Bullets. 18
CHAPTER III.—A Reminiscence of Chambersburg.
Quiet Country.—Ruins of Chambersburg.—Burning of the Town.—Flight of the Inhabitants.—Escape of the Raiders.—Death of Three Rebels.—Homeless Inhabitants.—State Appropriation for their Relief.—No Loss without Gain. 34
CHAPTER IV.—South Mountain.
Hagerstown.—Valley of the Antietam.—Boonsboro’.—The Rebels in Maryland.—View of the Mountain.—The Ascent.—Scene of General Reno’s Death.—Rebels buried in a Well.—A Mountaineer’s Story.—View of Catoctin Valley.—Strong Rebel Position.—Patriot Graves.—Antietam Valley at Sunset. 40
CHAPTER V.—The Field of Antietam.
Rebel Line of Retreat.—Keedysville.—Brick Church Hospital.—Porter and his Reserves.—Banks of the Antietam.—Scenes at the Straw-Stacks.—Unfortunate Farmers.—Hospital Cemetery.—The Corn Field.—The Old Ploughman.—A Lesson for Vanity.—A Soldier’s Name.—The Dunker Church.—Sharpsburg.—Shelter from the Rain.—Southern Pronunciation.—Burnside’s Bridge.—Ancient and Modern Heroes.—Antietam National Cemetery.—The Battle. 44
CHAPTER VI.—Down the River to Harper’s Ferry.
Search for a Vehicle.—“Mr. Bennerhalls.”—Mr. Benner without the “halls.”—Leaving Sharpsburg.—Mountain Scenery.—Capt. Speaker’s Narrative.—Surrender of Harper’s Ferry.—Escape of Twenty-two Hundred Cavalry.—Capture of Rebel Wagon Train.—Morning in Greencastle.—Arrival at the Ferry. 57
CHAPTER VII.—Around Harper’s Ferry.
River and Mountain Scenery.—Maryland Heights.—John Brown’s Engine-House.—Reminiscence of John Brown.—Political Inconsistency.—Negro from Shenandoah Valley.—Folly of Secession. 64
CHAPTER VIII.—A Trip to Charlestown.
Railroad Passengers.—A Desolated Country.—Farmers and Land.—A Dilapidated Town.—Meeting an Acquaintance.—Boarding-House Fare.—People and the Government Policy.—Charlestown Jail and Court-House.—John Brown’s Trial.—“His Soul Marching On.”—A One-armed Confederate.—John Brown’s Gallows.—Scene from the Scaffold.—The Church and its Uses. 69
CHAPTER IX.—A Scene at the White House.
Washington.—A Crowd of Pardon-Seekers.—President’s Reception. 75
CHAPTER X.—Bull Run.
From Alexandria to Manassas.—Manassas Junction.—“Overpowered,” but not Whipped.—Ambulance Wagon.—The Driver and the Roads.—Scene of the First Bull Run.—Soldiers’ Monument.—Luncheon in the Woods.—Scene of the Second Bull Run.—The Monument.—Groverton.—The two Battles and their Lessons.—The Stone House.—Miscegenated Cider.—Virginia Negroes. 81
CHAPTER XI.—Visit to Mount Vernon.
Down the Potomac.—Landing at Mt. Vernon.—A Throng of Pilgrims.—Tomb of Washington.—Character of Washington.—Mansion and Out-houses.—Girl at the Wash-tub.—Washington’s Well.—Shade-Trees.—Within the Mansion.—Relics.—The Portico.—Washington’s Love of Home.—Thunder-storm. 91
CHAPTER XII.—“State Pride.”
Acquia Creek.—Railroad and Stage-Coaches.—View of Fredericksburg.—Crossing the Rappahannock.—Ruins of the Town—“A Son of Virginia.”—“State Pride” and “Self-Conceit.”—Virginia and South Carolina.—Back in the Union.—Down at the Hotel.—Another Name for State Pride. 100
CHAPTER XIII.—The Field of Fredericksburg.
The Situation.—The Stone Wall of History.—A Rebel Eye-witness.—Stripping the Dead.—Strange Breastworks.—Fidelity of a Dog.—Gen. Lee’s “Humanity.”—Private Cemetery.—The Marye House.—Negro who didn’t see the Fight.—Southern Consistency.—Dissolution of the Rebel Army.—The Buried Dead.—House of Washington’s Mother.—Mary Washington’s Monument.—The Lacy House.—Scene from the Windows.—Storming of Fredericksburg. 106
CHAPTER XIV.—To Chancellorsville.
’Lijah and his Buggy.—A Three-Dollar Horse.—Trade in Soldiers’ Clothing.—Small Farmers.—Right Ignorant but Right Sharp.—Sedgwick’s Retreat.—Farms and Crops.—Views of Emancipation.—Poor Whites and Niggers.—The Man that killed Harrow.—Along the Plank-Road.—Tales of the Old Times.—Chancellorsville Farm.—What was under the Weeds.—Bones for the Bone-Factory.—Chancellorsville Burying-Ground.—Death of Stonewall Jackson. 114
CHAPTER XV.—The Wilderness.
Days of Anxiety.—Inflexible Spirit of the People.—Locust Grove.—The Wilderness Church.—Relics of the Battle.—Skeletons above Ground.—Wilderness Cemetery.—A Summer Shower.—The Wounded in the Fire.—The Rainbow. 123
CHAPTER XVI.—Spottsylvania Court-House.
Elijah “Cut.”—Richard “H.” Hicks.—Poor Whites and the War.—Dead Men’s Clothes.—A “Heavy Coon Dog.”—Traces of the Battle.—View of the Court-House.—Grant’s Breastworks.—County Clerk.—Whites and Blacks in the County.—Ignorance of the Lower Classes.—The Negro “Fated.” 129
CHAPTER XVII.—The Field of Spottsylvania.
The Tavern-Keeper’s Relics.—A Union Officer’s Opinions.—The Landlord’s Cornfield.—Rebel and Yankee Troops.—Scene of the Decisive Conflict.—Graves of Spottsylvania.—Women “Chincapinnin.”—Leaves from a Soldier’s Testament. 137
CHAPTER XVIII.—“On to Richmond.”
A Bubble Vanished.—Desolate Scenery.—Virginia and Massachusetts.—Ashton.—Suburbs.—Northern Men in Richmond.—Appearance of the City. 143
CHAPTER XIX.—The Burnt District.
Ruins of Richmond.—Why the Rebels burnt the City.—Panic of the Inhabitants.—Origin of the Fire.—Conflicting Opinions.—Fire of December, 1811.—Rebuilding.—Negroes at Work.—Colored Laborer.—Hasty Reconstruction. 147
CHAPTER XX.—Libby, Castle Thunder, and Belle Isle.
Libby Prison.—Castle Thunder.—James River.—Manchester Bridge.—Negroes with Bundles.—Old Negro’s Story.—Belle Island.—Talk with a Boatman.—Hatred of the Confederacy.—Skiff to Brown’s Island.—Father and Daughter. 153
CHAPTER XXI.—Feeding the Destitute.
Destitute Ration Tickets.—White and Black Mendicants.—Spirit of Rapacity.—Certificates.—Spurious Cases.—American Union Commission. 161
CHAPTER XXII.—The Union Men of Richmond.
One of the Twenty-one.—His Account of Confederate Times.—Rebel Fast Days.—Insurrection of Women.—Mr. L——’s Story.—Colonel Dahlgren’s Body.—Night Work for Union Men.—Story of Mr. W——.—In Salisbury Prison.—Union Women.—Minor Prisons.—“One Honest Yankee.”—Books for the Prisoners.—White and his Mule Cart.—Scene in a Prison Yard.—The Premises by Moonlight.—Not a “Love Affair.”—Escape of Two Prisoners.—A Halter Case.—Running the Lines to Butler.—Partiality to Traitors.—Union League. 166
CHAPTER XXIII.—Markets and Farming.
Mixed Population of Richmond.—Market Carts.—Scene at the Stalls.—Vegetable Gardens.—Experience of a Jersey Farmer.—Farms for Sale. 178
CHAPTER XXIV.—In and around Richmond.
St. John’s Church and Patrick Henry.—St. Paul’s and Jeff. Davis.—State and Confederate Capitol.—Negro Auction-Rooms.—Hollywood and Oakwood Cemeteries.—General Lee’s Head-Quarters Wagon.—Rebel Conscript Camp.—A Champion of Slavery.—A Rebel.—Secesh Song. 182
CHAPTER XXV.—People and Politics.
A Conservative Union Man.—A Confederate Soldier’s Opinions.—Female Secessionists.—Confederate Soldiers and the Ladies.—“Bomb-proof” Situations.—Governor Pierpoint.—Advantages to Northern Business Men.—State Debt and Finances.—Virginia Enterprise.—Coal Mines on the James.—Speech of a Played-Out Politician.—A Rival Candidate.—Political Views.—New Men. 187
CHAPTER XXVI.—Fortifications.—Dutch Gap.—Fair Oaks.
Ride with Major K——.—Forts and Earthworks.—Winter Quarters of the Army of the James.—Affair at Laurel Hill.—At New-Market Heights.—Gallop across the Country.—Butler’s Canal.—Origin of the Name “Dutch Gap.”—Cox’s House.—Out on the Nine-Mile Road.—Fair Oaks Station.—Seven Pines.—Charge of Sickles’s Brigade.—Savage’s Station.—Two Sundays. 198
CHAPTER XXVII.—In and about Petersburg.
From Richmond to the “Cockade City.”—Evening with Judge ——.—Story of Two Brothers.—Shelling of Petersburg.—Black Population.—Ride with Colonel E——.—The “Crater.”—Forts Hell and Damnation.—Forts Morton and Stedman.—“Petersburg Express.”—A Beautiful but Silent City.—Signal Tower. 205
CHAPTER XXVIII.—James River and Fortress Monroe.
City Point.—Landmarks of Famous Events.—Hotel under the Fortress.—Jeff. Davis’s Private Residence.—Circuit of the Ramparts.—Pardoned Rebel. 215
CHAPTER XXIX.—About Hampton.
Burning of Hampton.—Freedmen’s Settlements.—Visits to the Freedmen. 219
CHAPTER XXX.—A General View of Virginia.
Fertility.—Natural Advantages.—Old Fields.—Hills and Valleys.—Products.—Value of Land.—Manufactures.—Oysters.—Common Schools.—Freedmen’s Schools.—Negro Population.—Old Prejudice.—Wages.—Negroes in Tobacco Factories.—Freedmen’s Bureau.—Secession.—Railroads.—Finances.—Prospects. 224
CHAPTER XXXI.—The “Switzerland of America.”
East Tennessee.—Home of President Johnson.—Knoxville.—An Old Nigger-Dealer.—Table-Talk.—East Tennesseeans and Niggers.—Neighborhood Feuds.—Persecution and Retaliation.—Story of a Loyal Refugee. 237
CHAPTER XXXII.—East Tennessee Farmers.
Description of the People.—“Domestic.”—School-Fund and Schools.—Sects.—Farming.—Horses and Mules.—Grazing.—Want of a Market.—Products.—Mines. 243
CHAPTER XXXIII.—In and about Chattanooga.
View from Cameron Hill.—Mixed Population.—Post School.—Freedmen’s Schools.—Freedmen.—Contraband Village.—Parade of a Colored Regiment. 248
CHAPTER XXXIV.—Lookout Mountain.
A Bag of Grist.—Ascent of the Mountain.—The General’s Orderly.—View from Point Lookout.—“Battle in the Clouds.”—“Old Man of the Mountain.” 255
CHAPTER XXXV.—The Soldiers’ Cemetery.
National Cemetery of Chattanooga.—The Cave.—Interring the Dead. 260
CHAPTER XXXVI.—Mission Ridge and Chickamauga.
Storming the Ridge.—Rossville Gap.—A Dreary Scene.—The “Deadenings.”—Dyer Farm.—Camp of Colored Soldiers.—African Superstition.—Disinterring the Dead.—The Blunder of Chickamauga.—General Thomas’s Fight. 263
CHAPTER XXXVII.—From Chattanooga to Murfreesboro’.
Traces of Military Operations.—“Union Men.”—Passing the Cumberland Mountains.—The Country.—Story of Two Brothers.—“Little Johnny Reb.”—Railroad Travel.—General Hazen’s Head-Quarters.—Rebel Persecutions. 270
CHAPTER XXXVIII.—Stone River.
Fortress Rosecrans.—Rebel and Union Lines.—McCook Surprised.—Round Forest.—Cemetery of Hazen’s Brigade.—New National Cemetery. 275
CHAPTER XXXIX.—The Heart of Tennessee.
Nashville.—Cotton and Cotton Seed.—Battle of Nashville.—Legislature and Politics.—Governor Brownlow.—Major-General Thomas.—On Freedmen.—Freedmen’s Bureau.—Black and White Industry.—Freedmen’s Schools. 279
CHAPTER XL.—By Railroad to Corinth.
Condition of Railroad.—Battle-Ground of Franklin.—Crossing the River at Decatur.—A Young South Carolinian.—Whipping a Negro.—A Night in the Cars.—Morning in Corinth.—“Mighty Particular.”—The Corinthian Style.—Game.—Mr. M——’s Family and Servants.—Fate of a “Respectable Citizen.” 290
CHAPTER XLI.—On Horseback from Corinth.
Winter Morning in the Woods.—Stop at a Log-House.—An Old Lady’s Misfortunes.—Old Lee’s Story.—A Roadside Encounter. 297
CHAPTER XLII.—Zeek.
Talk by the Way.—Mistletoe.—Farm-Houses.—Route of the Armies.—Beauregard’s Bivouac.—Across Owl Creek.—Zeek’s Home. 303
CHAPTER XLIII.—Zeek’s Family.
A Tennessee Farm-House.—The Farmer.—The Kitchen.—Too well Ventilated by Half.—The Farmyard.—Mule-Pen and Out-Buildings. 306
CHAPTER XLIV.—A Night in a Tennessee Farm-House.
Concerning Doors.—Talk by the Firelight.—Depredations of the Two Armies.—Hunting Conscripts.—Origin of the Name “Owl Creek.”—Reminiscences of the Battle.—Smart Son-in-law.—Zeek Retires.—The Bridal Chamber. 312
CHAPTER XLV.—The Field of Shiloh.
Departure.—Bridal Home.—Before and After the Battle.—Hildebrand’s Picket Line.—Graves in the Woods.—Shiloh Church.—Skeletons Rooted up by Swine.—Romance of the Widow Ray House.—Romance of a Bale of Hay.—Members of One Family.—Sheep Pasture.—The “Long Avenue.”—Trenches of the Dead.—Pittsburg Landing.—General Prentiss’s Disaster. 321
CHAPTER XLVI.—Waiting for the Train at Midnight.
Mrs. M—— on Slavery.—Hunting for the Railroad.—Negro Encampment. 328
CHAPTER XLVII.—From Corinth to Memphis.
West Tennessee.—Two Sides to the Picture.—Commerce of Memphis. 332
CHAPTER XLVIII.—Freedmen’s Schools and the Freedmen’s Bureau.
Freedmen in Memphis.—Colored Benevolent Societies.—Schools.—Officers of the Bureau.—Old Wrongs Righted.—Summary Justice.—Milly Wilson’s Story.—Cases from Mississippi.—Business of the Bureau.—Suppressed Wills. 336
CHAPTER XLIX.—Down the Mississippi.
A Mississippi Steamboat.—Passengers.—Supper.—Evening Amusements.—Steamboat Race.—River and Shores.—Landings.—Captain and Colored Gentleman.—An Awful Thought.—Helena.—A Colored Soldier’s Return.—Condition of the Levees.—Freshets.—Best Protected Plantations.—Negro Insurrections. 347
CHAPTER L.—In and about Vicksburg.
Sight of the Town.—Yankee Canal.—Hills of Vicksburg.—Caves.—An Under-Ground Residence.—Bombardment.—Famine.—Ride to the Fortifications.—Grant and Pemberton Monument.—Sherman’s Unsuccessful Assault.—Chickasaw Bayou.—Indian Mounds.—Fortifications below Vicksburg.—“Will the Freedmen Work?”. 356
CHAPTER LI.—Free Labor in Mississippi.
Laborers defrauded of their Hire.—“Honesty” of a Planter.—Northern and Southern Master.—Freedmen and Planters.—Furnishing Supplies.—Slave Labor on Mr. P——’s Plantation.—Overseers and Negroes.—Change at Christmas. 362
CHAPTER LII.—A Reconstructed State.
Ignorance of the Free-Labor System.—Serf Code.—Freedmen in Civil Courts.—Convention and Legislature.—State Militia.—White and Black Offenders.—Persecution of Union Men.—A Pardoned Rebel.—Freedmen’s Schools. 369
CHAPTER LIII.—A few Words about Cotton.
Best Cotton Lands.—Anxiety of the Planter.—Fascination of the Culture.—Northern Planters.—Estimate of Cost and Profits.—Prospect of Crop. 379
CHAPTER LIV.—Davis’s Bend.—Grand Gulf.—Natchez.
Home of Jeff. Davis.—Colony of Paupers.—Other Farms on the Peninsula.—Success of the Freedmen.—Colored Courts.—Village of Grand Gulf.—The “Gulf.”—Situation of Natchez.—Cargoes of Cotton.—Talk with an Overseer. 383
CHAPTER LV.—The Lower Mississippi.
Used-up Deck Hands.—Toilsome Work and Brutal Treatment.—French Custom.—Steamboat Acquaintances.—Pay for Slaves.—Jim B—— and his Niggers.—“A Mountain Spout of a Woman.”—Talk with an Arkansas Planter.—Louisiana Planters.—Deck Passengers.—Black Woman’s Story.—French Inhabitants.—Creoles and Slaves.—Villages and Plantations.—Levees.—The River flowing on a Ridge.—Unavailable Swamps.—River Water.—River runs Up Hill. 388
CHAPTER LVI.—The Crescent City.
Midwinter at New Orleans.—French Quarter.—Anomalous Third Class.—Style of Building.—Levee.—Where the Cotton goes.—Shipment of Cotton during the War and since.—Freight of a Liverpool Steamer.—St. Charles Rotunda.—One of the Crowd.—His Scheme for making a Fortune.—His Opinion of the Planters.—Northern Men in Louisiana.—Planters and Niggers.—Hard Overseers.—General Phil. Sheridan.—Military Division of the Gulf.—Troops in Texas.—The Mexican Question.—The South to be Northernized.—Sheridan’s Personal Appearance.—Governor Wells.—Deeds and Professions.—Mayor Kennedy.—On the Future of New Orleans and the South.—Street Railroads.—Property owned by People of Color.—A Black and White Strike. 397