Сводка с указанием приблизительных расстояний и продолжительности пути в днях.
Place. Miles. Days.
Assiut —
—
Kharga 126
5
Bulak 15
½
Beris 38
1½
Maks 9 ⎱
⎰ 3
Bir Murra 78
Kassaba 67
2½
Sheb 25
1
Selima 82
3
Lagia 140
5
Bir Sultan 157
6
J. Meidob (J. Anka 270) 190
7
El Fasher (El Fasher 110) 140
5½
1,067
40
123. — АСУАН до ДЕРАХЕЙБА.
Составлено на основе отчета г-на Дженнингса-Брэмли (1902 г.).
Примечание: расстояния являются лишь приблизительными и могут быть занижены.
Place. Miles. Description.
Inter-mediate. Total.
Aswan
— — The road from Aswan to the well of Um Habal passes through a country destitute of any vegetation, but the road is well marked, being constantly used by the Eshabab charcoal burners going to Aswan, and the Bisharin, who go to the same market to buy corn.
Bir Um Habal
43 43 The two most marked points are the J. Butitulub, from which the tomb on the hill opposite the Aswan Commandania can be seen, and J. Umsuan on the Demhit range. The distance from Aswan to Bir Um Habal is a good day and a half with hamla. Bir Um Habal had plenty of good water at about 30 feet from the surface in June, but the level varies according to rainfall, though, according to the Arabs, water is never at any great distance from the surface.
From Bir Um Habal the road still lies through the hills, but soon leaving these crosses an open sandy plain, without vegetation of any kind. At the end of the first day after leaving Um Habal the road again winds between small rocky hills. The hills of J. Negib were evidently at one time mined, as there are the remains of old houses and signs of the quartz having been worked in many places.
Bir Negib
55 98 Wadi Negib has a few sayal trees; the water is good and plentiful. Bir Heimer, about 3 hours’ march south, was formerly garrisoned by the Eshabab. There is always water there. The wadis we now passed had always a certain amount of camel fodder, but the grazing would be sufficient only for a small number of animals, and it would be necessary to go some way from the beaten track to find it. Once Jebel Gedir is reached the track runs through small wadis with hilly sides, and soon the Wadi Murra is reached; some way up this wadi there is a well, Bir Murra, which, as its name denotes, is bitter.
Bir Heimer
6 104
Bir Murra
18 122
Ongwat
16 138 Once the Wadi Murra is reached the hills are left behind, and after about 5 miles the Wadi Alagi is reached; the wadi here is nothing but a flat bed of sand held in between low slate hills. The Wadi Ongwat, now followed, is at its junction with the Wadi Alagi profusely grown with handal (Colocynth) plant; but has only a few trees. The well of Ongwat is in the hills of J. Ongwat; it is not more than 3 feet deep, and has plenty of good water.
J. Maksam — — The Bir Ongwat is the boundary between the Eshabab and Aliab tribes, though the well itself belongs to the Eshabab. A road runs from Bir Ongwat to Bir Abu Tabag; but the most direct road to Bir Eigat is straight to J. Maksam, high red granite hills, in which, after rain, much good water can be found. Through one end of the granite hills, before reaching El Deiga, a road runs, joining Heimer and Abu Tabag direct.
The Wadi Alagi is very broad opposite J. Maksam, with only a tree here and there growing in its bed. At times during the rains this part of the wadi is cultivated. El Deiga, a pass through which the Wadi Alagi cuts the small hills at the northern extremity of J. Maksam, is also a boundary between the Eshabab and Eliab. The Wadi Alagi, from El Deiga to Bir Jugub, is bounded by small hills to the south and rather larger to the north. Except for a sayal or selem tree here and there no vegetation is to be found in the wadi.
Jugub 40 178 In the Wadi Jugub there is a well belonging to the Aliab (Kurbeilab), which is sometimes opened according to the pasturage. This wadi had more vegetation than any we had passed up to that time; there were growing besides the ordinary selem a few marakh trees.
From Jugub to Eigat the road leaves the Alagi, passing through low hills to the north. J. Eigat can be seen from Jebel Jugub, and it could also be seen from J. Maksam if that hill were climbed.
Eigat
27 205 There is a continuous line of high hills from Bir Jugub to El Eigat, running nearly parallel with the road at some 5 miles to the north. These were El Jugub, J. Hadaiber, J. Adrak, J. Eigat. The Wadi Eigat is well grown with marakh, heglig, sayal, selem, tundub and usher. It is a great contrast in its greenness to the Wadi Alagi, left the day before. The water at Eigat is near the surface, sometimes running, and at no time in the year more than a few feet down. The well belongs to the Aliab tribe.
There are at Eigat many signs that in olden times the hills were extensively mined. The road from Eigat to Bir Neshd in the Wadi Alagi is bad, but passable, though hamla camels have some trouble in passing.
The easier road, though four or five times longer, is down the Wadi Eigat and then across into the Alagi, which it follows to Neshd. Everywhere among the hills, from Eigat to the Alagi, along the direct road, are signs of old mining colonies. The Alagi here is green with vegetation, the arak grows everywhere, with marakh and heglig, and of course sayal and selem trees.
Neshd
10 215 The well of Neshd, about half a mile up the Wadi Neshd, on the southern side of the Alagi, belongs to the Kurbeilab-Aliab. There is always good water here, but, owing to the rocks, camels cannot approach right up to the well. At Bir Kamotit, which is some half a mile up the wadi, the water is good but rather tainted by the herds that water at it. This well is the property of the Hadl family.
Kamotit
4½ 219½
From Bir Kamotit to the Deraheib the road always follows the Wadi Alagi, which is everywhere well grown with sayal, the bean of which is excellent food for sheep, goats or camels. We saw many traces of the wild donkey, but did not actually see one.
Deraheib 9½ 229 Old mining colony. No well.
124. — КАССАЛА до МАССАУА.
Лейтенантом Г. Х. С. Морантом (1898 г.); дополнено материалами из отчетов полковника достопочтенного М. Г. Тэлбота (1900 г.) и г-на Ф. Б. Холера (1901 г.).
Общее описание. Дорога. Общее направление на Массауа из Кассалы — почти строго на восток. От Сабдерата до Керена итальянцы расчистили дорогу шириной около 50 футов, с которой были убраны большинство камней и вся растительность, за исключением редких крупных деревьев баобаба (тебельди). Она настолько четко обозначена, что незнакомец мог бы идти по ней даже темной ночью. Единственным затруднительным местом является низкое седло у Биши, где (в 1900 г.) еще оставалось много работы. Своими длинными прямыми линиями она сильно напоминает старые римские дороги; она пересекает овраги и русла рек под любым углом, под которым они встречаются, но на многих более крутых подъемах и спусках были прорезаны узкие пандусы. В нескольких местах вдоль дороги итальянцы вырыли новые каменные колодцы.
Прилагаемый отчет о дороге был составлен до строительства этой недавно расчищенной дороги, которая от Сабдерата до Даура-Обеля проходит севернее старого маршрута через Альгеден и Эладаль, и подробной информации о водоснабжении на этом участке пути под рукой нет, хотя считается, что для обычного путешественника в этом отношении нет никаких трудностей.
От Керена до Асмэры, а оттуда после многих зигзагов до Саати, проложена отличная проезжая дорога шириной около 14 футов, за исключением участка длиной около 6 миль перед Азтеклезаном, который (на апрель 1900 г.) не был завершен до полной ширины, но уже был пригоден для колесного транспорта. На всем протяжении этой мощеной дороги уклоны местами неизбежно довольно крутые; километры отмечены на всем пути.
Местность. От Кассалы до Керена общий характер местности сильно напоминает большую часть пути между Кассалой и Суакином и, как правило, состоит из ровных безводных равнин с твердой почвой, местами песчаной или гравийной, покрытых мелкой короткой травой и разбросанными кустарниками акации, и пересеченных кое-где неглубокими песчаными хорами, которые во время сезона дождей отводят воду с каменистых вулканических холмов и гранитных холмов-коппи, столь характерных для этой конкретной части Африки.
От Керена до Массауа характер местности полностью меняется, и безводные равнины и колючие акации маршрута Кассала — Керен сменяются проточными ручьями и отвесными горами, поросшими молочаем и дикими оливковыми деревьями, как на подъеме к плато Асмэра, так и на спуске к приморской равнине Массауа.
Вьючные животные. Для всего путешествия наиболее подходят мулы, но до Керена отлично подходят верблюды. От Керена до Массауа через Асмэру — колесный транспорт, мулы или лошади. Если выбран прямой пустынный маршрут от Керена до Массауа, желательны, если не обязательны, верблюды.
Снабжение. Молоко, козы, крупный рогатый скот и т. д. встречаются на всем протяжении маршрута, как и в других частях Судана.
Через определенные промежутки времени встречаются небольшие буфеты, в Керене есть неплохие магазины, а в Асмэре и Массауа — хорошие лавки, где можно приобрести большинство товаров первой необходимости.
Вода. Если возникнет необходимость переместить по этому маршруту отряд численностью более роты, следует навести справки о состоянии водоснабжения, так как оно значительно меняется в зависимости от времени года.
Жители. В целом, жители между Кассалой и Кереном — это бени-амер; далее — смешанный тип абиссинцев и т. д.
Климат. Климат вдоль этого маршрута в целом хороший. Между Кассалой — Кереном и Гиндой — Массауа в марте, апреле и мае определенно жарко — вероятно, и в другие месяцы тоже. Это также наиболее подверженные лихорадке участки маршрута, хотя, вероятно, ни одна его часть не является столь нездоровой, как Кассала. Между морем и Агордатом в апреле случаются так называемые итальянцами «малые дожди», что означает очень сильные грозы; они прекращаются до конца месяца, а собственно сезон дождей начинается ближе к концу мая.
Климат на плато Асмэра считается восхитительным, хотя, возможно, дожди там чрезмерны.
Дичь. Вдоль этого маршрута дичи мало или нет совсем, за исключением участка между Кассалой и Кереном, где можно встретить ариэлей, газелей, дик-диков и цесарок.
Маршрут (с января по март).
Place. Miles. Description.
Inter-mediate. Total.
Kassala — — Head Quarters of the Kassala Province (fully described in Vol. I). From here the road follows the telegraph line and runs nearly due E. between Jebels Mokrani and Kassala, over a level more or less open plain to Sabderat, the village of which name is situated on the northern side of the gorge, through which flows Khor Tamarat, and is about 1½ miles on the Italian side of the frontier, which is plainly marked by pillars. Here there is a telegraph office and well with a never-failing and plentiful supply of good water.
Sabderat
17 17
Metaui (Algeden) 10 27 From this point a road has been cleared by the Italians which runs nearly perfectly straight to the vicinity of Daura Obel, where it bends to the S., and thence follows the old track. This latter leads from Sabderat to Metaui, where a good well was found (in 1898). The Arabs using the well, however, apparently live at a distance, and were not seen.
Aradeb
12½ 39½ From here the road ascends a col, and high ground continues on the right for about 5 miles, after which the road leads over a level bush-covered plain, and after passing two unimportant detached jebels, a well, named Aradeb, close to the northern end of the second jebel, is reached. Plenty of shade, but very little water (April, 1898). The path continues good over a level plain with scattered bush until Eladal is reached. Here there is a telegraph office, but only one well with extremely little water (April, 1898). Continuing, the track, after crossing a low saddle, traverses a defile with high rocky jebels on either side for about 5 miles, and then, after crossing a wooded basin, ascends a high saddleback, from the summit of which a fine view is obtainable. From here the track descends by a rather steep and rocky pass to the wells of Daura Obel, which lie in the bed of a khor which finds an exit to the S., being shut in on three sides by high ground. After 2 miles this high ground is left behind, and a similar distance further on another khor is crossed, apparently flowing N. It must be somewhere near this point that the new-cleared road previously referred to joins in.
Eladal
12½ 52
Daura Obel
14 66
Bisha
14 80 A level plain, covered with open bush, is now traversed, and after passing between two detached hills, Bisha is reached. Here there is a telegraph office and small village, situated on the side of the hill, about 1½ miles N.E. of the well, where there appeared to be plenty of water (April, 1898). Two miles from the well the road crosses the top of a saddle from which a good view E. and W. is obtainable. The road then descends a stony ravine, about 1 mile in length, and a sign board was passed, pointing S., “To Well”; thence across the usual bush-covered plain to Shaglet, where there are rest tukls and many dom palms. In the khor close by, a tributary of the Baraka, there are several good wells.
Shaglet
12 92
Agordat
14 106 From near Shaglet the hills of Agordat are visible, and after traversing a plain (the scene of the first battle of Agordat) covered with scattered bush and intersected by several khors, the dom palms fringing the Khor Baraka are reached at the foot of the hills (100 feet high?), on which are built the twin fortresses of Agordat. These, however, are both commanded within artillery range from the S. There are one or more wells with any amount of good water to which there is a covered way from the main fort. Population 8,000. But few stores can be purchased here. The climate is hot and considered unhealthy, though it is the only station in the colony, except perhaps Massawa, that can be compared with Kassala in that respect.
Adarte
17 123 The road now crosses the sandy bed of the Khor Baraka and traverses an undulating, tolerably open plain (the scene of the second fight with the Dervishes), and recrossing the Baraka about 7 miles further on continues up its valley to Adarte, where there are wells with rather a meagre water supply. From here the path continues up the scattered bush-covered valley of a tributary of the Baraka, until Agat is reached; here there are several wells, and water seems plentiful. After leaving Agat, the valley narrows considerably, though the plain which bears slight indications of cultivation (the first seen since leaving Kassala) continues level until reaching the foot of the somewhat steep ascent to the plateau (4,470 feet approx.) on which the fortress and town of Keren are situated. This of course belonged to Egypt in the old days, and was then known as Senhit, from the name of a small village still existing. The fort, which is built on a detached hill about 150 feet high, contains a well, but is itself commanded by the hills to the S. and S.W. within comparatively easy artillery range.
Agat
10 133
Keren
11 144
The water supply is good, but fuel is scarce in the immediate neighbourhood. There is a rather large market, some good stores, canteens, Post and Telegraph Office, &c. The climate here is comparatively cool and healthy.
After quitting Keren, the general character of the country changes almost at once, and a series of precipitous hills and mountains, with perennial streams, are encountered.
Khor Anseba
6½ 150½ The best route to Massaua is that by the new metalled coach road viâ Asmara. This road, after traversing undulating country for about 8½ miles crosses the bed of the Khor Anseba, in which are pools during most of the dry season.
From here there is an almost continuous ascent till reaching Azteklesan.
Halibaret
6½ 157 Six and a half miles further on the narrow stream of Halibaret is met; good running water.
From here there is a direct caravan route to Massaua, but water along it is rather scarce, especially in the dry season.
[The following is an account:—
[Halibaret — 157 Leaving Halibaret by the direct track at the bottom of the valley the path is open, level, and easy. There is a little water to be found in the valley of the Maldi, but it is scarce in the Beloa valley, which is quite dry from January to June. The descent to the Beloa is bad. From Magasas there is a slight descent to the valley of the Maldi, and thence the road is good to Ambelako, near where running water is found at Galushima.
Ambelako
25 182
Fil Fil
8 190 Good running water. Between Fil Fil and Gergeret there are some very steep and stony ascents and descents, which are difficult for camel caravans. Same applies to the Ailet defile later on, which however is not so steep, being merely the stony bed of a stream. The track crosses three ranges of thickly wooded hills, and water is found in the Solomoni valley, about half way to Gergeret. The forest becomes less dense and the trees smaller as one approaches Gergeret.
Gergeret
10 202 Good water is found in abundance here, except in the months of July and October, when the supply diminishes considerably.
Ailet
8 210 From Gergeret to Ailet the heat is often intense, and there is a complete absence of water. Road mostly very stony, especially in the Ailet Gorge. Water bad and scarce.
[Saati 11 221
N.B.—This route report from Halibaret to Saati is not very reliable.]
Halibaret (stream) — 157 Soon after crossing this the ascent to the Asmara plateau begins in earnest, and the road zig-zags up rugged mountain sides until the summit is reached, at Azteklesan, a tukl village, which had a couple of small canteens (April, 1898), rest-houses, and a plentiful supply of water.
Azteklesan
13½ 170½
Siuma Negus
8 178½ From here the direct road winds along over at first rather a hilly bit of country covered with scattered bush and trees, and occasional khors, generally with water in them, until reaching Siuma Negus, where there is a stream of good water, and a fair-sized village. The metalled coach road, after leaving Azteklesan, makes a considerable detour to the N., and is 3 or 4 miles longer. From here to Asmara, an open and slightly undulating fertile plain extends, dotted here and there with villages and several running streamlets.