Khor Amboreb
7½ 120
Khor Barshoi 4 124
Khor Araf
6 130
El Getite
11 141
Umna Dunyin
10 151 The road then goes on down Khor Araf with many twists and turns till the pool of rain-water called Umna Dunyin is reached, about 10 miles from El Getite, but 15 yards long and about 6 yards broad, 4 or 5 feet deep in the centre, will probably last 2 months more. After 2½ miles from Umna Dunyin, J. Hambolib is in sight, round which the khor twists for about 3 miles, till the wells called J. Hambolieb are passed. They are filled up with sand, and only a person who knew them well would know they had ever existed. However, I was told there is water underneath; if so, a small fatigue party could clean out the sand in a few hours. I think Khor Langeb joins Khor Araf just near here, running due E. here. Dom palms, tarfa jungle, and small quantity of green grass on the banks. Five miles up this khor, on left bank, is Bir Oshi, at mouth of small Khor Oshi; the same remarks apply to Bir Oshi as to Bir Araf. Bir Gabati, slightly further on, I was told is the same. There is, I am told, water in Khor Odi, and a big pool at Areiwat, and no lack of water further on. On the right bank on entering Khor Langeb are some graves on a hill, said to be the graves of Roman soldiers; the Hadendoas are afraid of opening them, though they think there is treasure there.
J. Hambolib 2½ 153½
Bir Oshi
4½ 158
Bir Oshi is distant about 48 miles from Bir Tisharam, this is owing to the twists the khor makes, and one is not able to leave Khor Araf often on account of the hills coming down close to the banks of the khor and rendering the ground impassable.
12. — ЭЛЬ-ГЕТИТЕ (в ХОР-АРАФ) до АДАРАМЫ через БИР-ДЕЛАИ и ТЕНДЕРУ.
Капитан Кенрик, сентябрь 1901 г.
Place. Miles. Description.
Inter-mediate. Total.
El Getite — — March from El Getite to junction of Khor Araf with Khor Barshoi (vide previous route report), then march for 2 miles N.W. up Khor Araf almost to its source; the khor narrows here and the path is a little stony in places, then turn W. over a stony plain for 2 miles, very fairly good going until the source of Khor El Ashob is reached. From this place may be sighted sources of Khor Araf and Khor Amboreb, which runs away apparently S.E. There was plenty of grass and shade here. Leaving Khor El Ashob, which runs away to the N.W., afterwards turning S.W. again to join Khor Derudeb, march S.W. to Khor Delai, 7½ miles distant; road stony, but good going on sheep tracks, the stones are not very thick, nor is it rocky. Cross several khors en route, Khor Beida is one of them; there is a little grass in all of these. On reaching Khor Delai, after going a few yards down the khor the well is reached in the centre of the khor, recently cleaned out by the Arabs, but there are none here now. The well is lined with wood.
Khor Barshoi 17 17
Khor El Ashob 4 21
Khor Delai 7½ 28½
Khor Beida — —
Bir Delai
— 28½
Depth to water 3½ feet.
Depth of water (very clean) 10 „
Circumference (approx.) 7 „
Good cattle watering places round the well. Good shade. Some green grass in the khor.
5 33½ After leaving Bir Delai, first march 5 miles along right bank of Khor Delai (looking towards mouth of khor), direction W., cross the khor at the point where it runs slightly N.W. to join Khor El Ashob, then 8 miles over stony, but very level plain, excellent going in cattle tracks and sheep tracks S.W. to pool El Ashob in Khor El Ashob, 40 yards long, 12 feet deep and 8 yards broad. Well filled up, 3 miles to N.W.; could be opened if necessary in khor under dom palm.
Pool El Ashob
8 41½
Khor Derudeb 5 46½ Leave Khor El Ashob, crossing to right bank (looking towards mouth), going in a westerly direction 5 miles to Khor Derudeb, cross this khor. A little cotton soil on E. bank of Khor Derudeb, going otherwise good, over light, stony, sandy soil, but no shade except at the khors. Then N.W. 10 miles further on to Khor Abu Sillem, coming from N. of J. Torbraa range; going good, grass in Khor Abu Sillem, also shade. N.W. still 6 miles further to Khor Breitak, there I found two pools of rain-water, muddy, but sweet. They were in the khor and were about 40 yards long, 6 yards broad and 1 foot deep. About 5 miles of some of the best grazing I have seen in the country. The Sheikh said the water had been there 2 months and would only last 9 days more, another Arab I asked said a month more. The Sheikh also pointed out the road to the N. to Bir Tendera; both he and my guides said half a day’s journey, i.e., 13 miles, easy road, and it looked good what I saw of it. Very good shade here.
Khor Abu Sillem 10 56½
Khor Breitak
6 62½
Bir Tendera
13 75½
Sekotieb 20 95½ From Tendera, Adarama is 40 miles (Arabs 2 days, loaded camels), road easy (there may be a little cotton soil), some shade and grass at Bir Tendera, also some shade at Sekotieb (?), 20 miles (about) from Adarama. The well (Tendera) itself is large, always has water in it.
Adarama 20 115½ This information, though I have seen the road as far as Khor Shedieb and corroborate it so far, is hearsay, as I had not time to go there myself. My informants are my two guides, Sheikh Mohammed Isa and the Mulazim Awal, of Slavery Department at Adarama, all of whom have been there, and many Arabs re water.
Примечание: В высокой траве (сентябрь) было встречено большое количество змей, точно таких же, как индийская кобра. Я убил 4 во время марша. На языке хадендоа они называются «коква», в то время как абабда называют их «дугга».
13. — УМБРЕГА (р. СЕТИТ) до СОФИ (р. АТБАРА).
Капитан Г. Х. С. Морант, март 1900 г.
Примечание: Описание маршрута далее на восток и заметки об этой дороге см. в маршруте 125, Приложение.
Place. Miles. Description.
Inter-mediate. Total.
Umbrega[9] — — From here there is a tolerably distinct track following the crest-line of the plateau, and the river is seen and approachable only occasionally, being always 1 to 4 miles on left. The descents to Meshras Abedo and Godema are passed, and then the burial ground and khor of Torab Karuf, further on the district of Sheikh Ageil and Meshra El Zuhani. From Sheikh Ageil J. Esir and Lukdi are both visible N.N.W. and S.S.W. respectively, latter being on boundary of Hamrans towards Abyssinia.
Abedo
3¾ 3¾
Godema
¾ 4½
K. Turab Karuf 1¼ 5¾
Sheikh Ageil 4 9¾
El Zuhani
1½ 11¼
Gat Wad El Hag 6½ 17¾ Leaving this, the path passes clearings of former cultivation, and after 3 miles of thick bush, Gat Wad El Hag. Meshra El Hagar El Zuruk is reached, and after following bed of river for ½ a mile, plateau is regained, and Gira is next Meshra. On left bank are cliffs, on which are situated the ruins of the old Egyptian Fort. K. Lobetir and K. Wad Heleiwa being crossed, village of latter name, which is the sole existing one of Hamrans at present time, is reached. From here Setit is crossed, and later R. Atbara and village of Sofi is reached.
El Hagar El Zuruk
1¾ 19½
Gira
10½ 30
K. Lobetir 6 36
K. Wad Heleiwa
2 38
Setit
1¼ 39¼
Atbara
7½ 46¾
Sofi
¾ 47½ Little game was seen between Umbrega and Sofi.
[1] Вьючный транспорт.
[2] Для получения более подробной информации о водоснабжении вдоль этого маршрута см. «Отчет о Ниле и стране между Донголой и т. д.», 1898 г.
[3] Означает «красный камень» на языке хадендоа.
[4] «Черный камень» на языке хадендоа.
[5] Топливо следует везти с собой между Ариабом и Махо-Беем.
[6] Из Суакина.
[7] Сейчас много.
[8] Если нет желания идти через итальянскую территорию от этой точки, можно воспользоваться маршрутом, упомянутым в предыдущем отчете, двигаясь вверх по Хор-Лангебу до соединения с Хор-Уинди, а затем вверх по последнему хору около 20 миль, пока не встретится восточная дорога.
[9] Граница Судана и Эритреи здесь проходит от точки на дороге Хафейра — Умбрега, отмеченной деревом хеглиг с зарубкой, прямо к изгибу Сетита непосредственно напротив устья Хор-Ройян, который впадает в Сетит на левом берегу примерно в 11 милях выше Умбреги.
ГЛАВА IV.
(ВОСТОЧНЫЙ СУДАН.)
14. — КАРТУМ-НОРТ до КАССАЛЫ через ГЕЙЛИ, РЕРА-ЭЛЬ-САДДА и ЭЛЬ-СОФЕЙЮ, ДИМИАТ, АСУБРИ.
Полковник достопочтенный М. Г. Тэлбот (январь 1900 г.) с дополнениями капитанов Бульнуа (март 1900 г.) и Моранта (январь 1901 г.).
Общее описание.
Дорога. В это время года (январь) движение хорошее на всем протяжении, за исключением нескольких миль между Ум-Ухейтой и Ум-Руейшидом и первых 5 миль от Реры на восток, где участки тропы очень каменистые. От Эль-Садды до Асубри в настоящее время (1900 г.) нет тропы, поэтому движение не такое хорошее, как в других частях, но для верблюдов препятствий нет. Уклоны на всем протяжении незначительны. Большая часть маршрута проходит по темной пахотной почве, которая должна быть непроходимой во влажном состоянии, поэтому осенью этот маршрут должен быть трудным для верблюдов, по крайней мере, в течение дня после сильного дождя.
До Эль-Эрейгиба много тени; после этого она встречается редко, а на значительных участках отсутствует вовсе.
Реки. Русло Атбары лежит на 100–200 футов ниже уровня окружающих равнин. С обеих сторон оно окаймлено 2–4 милями пересеченной местности, покрытой редким кустарником, через которую тропа проходит с легкими уклонами. Как правило, она непроходима вброд у Асубри с конца июня до середины октября. В эти месяцы путешественники переправляются на лодочном пароме у Сувейхиля, примерно в 5 милях южнее.
Гаш может быть непроходим вброд в течение нескольких дней подряд во время сезона паводков, который длится в июле, августе и сентябре.
Снабжение. Рядом с тропой выращивается довольно много дурры, и кое-что можно получить в нужное время года. Овец и молоко можно найти во многих местах. Дрова можно найти везде до Эль-Гисеймы (66 миль), после этого их очень мало, пока не будет достигнута Атбара.
Вода. Поскольку резервуаров очень много, воды должно быть очень много осенью и в начале зимы.
Колодцы около Эль-Эрейгиба очень глубокие; колодец у Вад-Абу-Салеха оказался глубиной примерно 250 футов.
Все еще есть много колодцев, требующих очистки, и резервуаров, нуждающихся в ремонте. Вода была хорошего качества на всем протяжении, и все посещенные колодцы имели достаточный запас.
Жители. Деревня Ум-Диббан и вся страна до Вад-Абу-Салеха раньше находились под властью Эль-Таиба Абд-эль-Салема, шейха Эль-Собы. Из-за того, что они присоединились к Махди, семья шейха Эль-Обейда возросла в значении и приобрела определенную юрисдикцию над страной к востоку от Ум-Диббана.
Несколько батахинов было встречено до Эль-Гисеймы, после этого практически все были шукрия или те, кто жил с этим племенем, до левого берега Атбары.
Выпас. До Эль-Гисеймы есть отличный древесный выпас, а после этого запас травы настолько велик, что можно понять, как существовали огромные стада, которыми, как утверждают шукрия, они владели в свои лучшие времена.
Увиденная трава никогда не была выше 3 футов. Она не выжжена.
Земледелие. Огромная площадь способна давать хорошие урожаи дурры, если дожди благоприятны.
Дичь. В это время года (январь) между Голубым Нилом и несколькими милями Атбары практически не на кого охотиться.
Place. Miles. Description.
Inter-mediate. Total.
Khartoum North — — Starting E. from the Artillery Lines at Khartoum N., a well marked track is soon struck, which continues up the Blue Nile cutting off corners where it bends. It passes the village of Kuku (whence a track leads to Sheikh El Amin and afterwards rejoins this route), the two villages of Gereif, where there is some cultivation, and at about 12 miles the village of Um Dom. At about 19 miles, after passing some low mounds covered with frequent fragments of stone and brick, said to be the remains of Old Soba, the road bifurcates and the branch to the left is taken, a clearly marked track. For the first few miles the path passes through thinly scattered trees, which gradually get thicker, till at 23 miles they restrict the view in any direction to 200 or 300 yards. At 25½ miles a well is passed on the right of the road, and at 27 miles Um Dibban is reached. This is a scattered but well-built mud village on perfectly flat ground, from which all vegetation has been removed for a radius of 1,000 to 1,500 yards.
Old Soba
19 19
Um Dibban
8 27
It was formed by a holy man named Sheikh El Obeid, who established a school and caused a tank to be dug. His descendants still live there and keep up the school, but they now have hankerings after temporal power.
The Sheikh El Obeid family and followers were early and fanatical adherents of the Mahdi, and it was in attempting to surprise them that Mohammed Ali Pasha and his forces were cut to pieces in 1884.
There are two wells about 112 feet deep, one inside, and the other 200 yards W. of the S.W. corner of village.
The inhabitants belong to various tribes; many have land on the Blue Nile, and some cultivate land to the E.
Wad Badrub (Wad Agid) 4¼ 31¼ The road starts slightly N. of E., and generally traverses a thin forest of thorny trees, not thick enough really to impede troops, but necessitating a little dodging here and there. At 4¼ miles it passes Wad Badrub, a well, said to be 140 feet deep, belonging to Um Dibban. About 200 yards further on, and again after 4 more miles, dry tanks were passed.
The track maintains a general direction of a little N. of E., but constantly makes considerable changes for short distances.
Wad Hedeibab
7¾ 39 Well.
Um Sideira
7 46 Well.
4 50 A dry tank in the Elwan district is passed. There is said to be a well of the same name 2 miles to the S.E. This district originally belonged to the Shukria, but is now occupied by the Batahin.
The country soon becomes more open and a considerable extent, perhaps 600 or more feddans of dura, cultivated by the Batahin was passed.
El Ereigib
5 55 There are some wells (which were out of repair; January 1901) and several dry tanks, and one with water about 1 mile N.E. Plenty of fair sized trees.
A small number of Mesellemia Arabs, Sheikh Mahi, were there. They were originally under the Shukria, but during the Mahdia came under Sheikh El Obeid.
Another rather shorter route is from Khartoum N. to El Ereigib, viâ Babekr (11½ miles), good well, thence passing two lots of salt works to the village of El Melaha (13 miles), large tank, plenty of water (January, 1901), thence to a second village of El Melaha (2½ miles), salt well, thence to a deep but good well at Elwan (22½ miles), and total distance to El Ereigib (4 miles) is 53½ miles.
Wadi Sereria 6½ 6½ The country soon becomes more open, several tanks are passed. At 3 miles Wad Abu Saleh, good well 250 feet deep, marked by some small but well built mud houses in good preservation, said to belong to the Sheikh of El Soba. About ¾ mile to the left is a tank, said to hold the largest supply of water in the neighbourhood. The country now becomes more and more bare of trees, and more ground fit for cultivation is seen. At 6½ miles some Batahin crops are passed, and the Wadi Sereria flowing S. is crossed. A well belonging to the Mesellemia is said to be close at hand on left. At 8 miles a track from Shendi viâ Wad Hassuna to Rufaa is crossed. No water along it except tanks.
El Giseima[10]
4½ 66 A tank about 100 feet in diameter on rather high ground surrounded by a few trees, 2 feet of water in it, Hamla 4½ hours. From this on, no trees are seen till Rera is reached, except where belts of “kittr” bushes mark the lines of Wadis or a small clump of thorn trees shows the position of a tank; firewood should be provided for.
Wadi Abu Sueid 4 70 The absence of trees enables one to see far over the wide plains, mostly of arable soil and covered at this season with dry “Mahareib” and “Hamra” grass. At 4 miles, an unusually pronounced drainage line said to come from Abu Deleig is crossed. The upper part is called Wadi Abu Sueid and the lower Wadi Hasit, said to be much cultivation along it, but none was seen. Thence across a gravelly plateau from which 4 miles further on Geili hill can be seen. At 76th mile road descends short slope to Astaneit tank, dry, no wood, water, nor good grazing.
Astaneit 6 76
Khor Dengalia 4 80 From here on to Geili, the road generally makes for the hill. The main track probably avoids Astaneit tank, leaving it to the right. At 80th mile the Khor Dengalia; at 84th mile the Wadi Nail, and half mile further on the Wadi Ankia are crossed, all flowing south. 5½ miles further on the N. end of the Geili hill was reached. The best place to halt is ½ mile further on at the S.E. end, where a huge fallen boulder affords good shade for two or three persons. It has an ancient carving in Egyptian style on the side nearest the hill.
Wadi Nail 4 84
Wadi Ankia ½ 84½
Geili
6 90½
J. Geili is a granite outcrop about 250 feet high, rising out of a gentle elevation in the plain. On E. and S. are some low knolls enclosing a small open space, in which the wells now most used are situated. There are said to be about thirty wells round the hill, varying in depth from 50 to 100 feet, yielding an unfailing supply of water; some grass near but no firewood. The only path up the hill is from the N., and even there nailed boots must be taken off.
From the summit a good view is obtained. Near the top on some level ground is a place shown as the tomb of the “Bint El Mek,” the daughter of one of the Fung Kings, who married Sheikh El Din one of the early Shukria Sheikhs.
From Geili there are two roads to Um Rueishid, one of which viâ J. El Daein makes a considerable detour. It starts on a bearing of about 66° from true N. straight for J. El Daein, passing over good soil nearly all the way, several hundred feddans of which appear to have been cultivated (1901). The ground is much cracked and off the path, the going is bad.
J. El Daein 22 112½ Two small hills of which the southern is the higher. There is a tank, now dry, at its foot on W. side, Hamla took 8 hours, going well.
Um Ukheita 14½ 127 The track now turns slightly S. of E. and continues over good soil rather bare of grass to Um Ukheita, a tank now dry, on a slight stony rise. Hamla about 5 hours. From here on to Um Rueishid the ground is covered with angular stones, and the going very bad. Camels have to walk. At 2½ miles J. Rera is seen to the S.E., and the track makes fairly straight for it, leaving on the right the group of small hills known as El Nawasla. At 6¼ miles the track descends a gentle slope, and bends up to the N. to the well of Um Rueishid.