Wells
2¼ 2¼
Shasheina (Rest house) 14¾ 17 Several groups of tukls belonging to Debania and Takruris on western slope of a low ridge. Two good wells with any amount of good water, roughly 30 to 40 feet down.
7 24 Leaving here the track skirts the bottom of the ridge and leads in a southerly direction over stony, bad going for about 2 miles, when it bends to S.E. and passes over an open plain to the E.; on the W. forest begins. The wells of Amzuani and Galaat Eila are passed 2½ miles and ¾ mile to the E. of the track.
J. Doka is now visible right ahead.
The path here enters forest which continues to Doka. The soil black cracked cotton soil and the path is occasionally stony. Hashab, soffar and talh are the trees that predominate.
Doka (Rest house) 21 45 A very wretched village that has seen better days. It used to be the residence of a mudir or important official in the old government days. The remains of his palace, &c., are still standing. Two wells, very indifferent supply; generally dry in the middle of the day a few months after the rains.
There is a path from here to Abu Gulud and Sofi, also to Nogara. On leaving Doka several hills are passed, the principal being J. Doka 2 miles to the E., and Ajerawi or Kajerawi to the W. About 4 miles from Doka the route from Asar joins in from the right. This road is very little used, and is hardly noticeable. The track here becomes stony for a mile or so.
Khor Kefaia 8 53 Khor Kefaia, running W.
Khor Kanin 3½ 56½ Khor Kanin, also running W.
Seraf Said (Rest house) 10 66½ Several small villages and two wells in the khor of this name which is the boundary between Gedaref and Gallabat. Wells 30 to 40 feet deep; fair supply. From here a road goes W. to Durraba[13] near the Rahad, and there is a track, made by honey hunters, to the Atbara, which is 13 or 14 miles eastwards.
For the first 2 miles after leaving the wells a good deal of dura and dukhn cultivation is passed through, and then forest with some quite fine trees begins and continues to within a mile of Gallabat.
Khor Kuneina (Rest house) 15 81½ The hills of Ras El Fil, where this khor originates, are passed 2 miles on the right. Up to January water is obtainable slowly from holes about 3 feet deep in its bed. Later these become dry. Fine ardeib tree. Thick forest, chiefly talh and heglig, continues to Khor Otruk, where water stands in a pool all the year round. There are also wells near, from which several small villages obtain their water.
Khor Otruk
7 88½
The road now ascends an easy slope for about 2 miles, and hills are passed to the right and left. From the top of this ascent Gallabat is visible, and ½ mile before reaching it a small khor with running water is crossed.
Gallabat 4½ 93 Old fort of Zeki Tumal’s, 120 feet above the town which lies at foot of slope about 400 yards E. Water from stream, which constitutes boundary with Abyssinia, 800 yards E. of fort.
[There is an alternative route viâ Asar. This is however very little used. It was taken by the two companies of Soudanese troops who first occupied Gallabat in December, 1898. It had been previously used a good deal by Dervish fugitives to and from Gedaref. The water supply along the Doka road is now better and is sufficient, if troops march at night, without carrying any great amount of water:—
Gedaref — — A rather stony track in places leads across open country covered with high grass and dura to Asar. This is a Debania village and residence of their head Sheikh, Wad Zaid, and is situated at the S.W. end of a ridge 300 feet high and 1½ miles long, running nearly N. and S. Here there are two good wells which supplied Ahmed Fedil’s force of 3,000 to 4,000 men besides women, &c., for more than three weeks. A road leads from here to Beila, also to Shasheina.
Asar
10 10
Leaving Asar, several deserted villages were passed, and after traversing undulating open country for 8 miles, talh and soffar forest commences.
Khor Tagala
15 25 Water in holes in rocks by the road side. It has the usual stagnant rain-water taste and smell, but is said to last all the year round. Large baobab close to water. The track continues through forest with occasional open spaces to Khor Ardeiba.
Khor Ardeiba
15 40
A large khor running W. between hills. Water is found in several places in the rock on the side of the hill on left bank of khor. The supply was very scanty at beginning of December, and is not to be relied on.
J. Kajerawi
10 50 For the first 3 or 4 miles after leaving the bed of the khor the track ascends and descends several short steep slopes; trees interfere with the path, which is somewhat stony. It then crosses a fairly open cotton soil plain to a stone-lined well about 60 feet deep, at the foot of J. Kajerawi or Ajerawi. As this well was not in regular use, the water tasted and smelt, but there was plenty of it.
Four miles on the track joins in with the main road previously described, about 5 miles S. of Doka.]
21. — АБУ-ХАРАЗ до ГЕДАРЕФА.
Подполковник Б. Р. Митфорд, март 1899 г.
Place. Miles. Description.
Inter-mediate. Total.
Abu Haraz — — Half of a mile N. of junction of R. Rahad and Blue Nile. Track leads through the village in an E. direction, and 4 miles over a plain covered with grass 4 feet high after rains; then some bush is entered which necessitates reducing front of the column to file. The Rahad is from 1 to 1½ miles distant on right flank, its banks covered with a belt of jungle. Track consists of four to six camel tracks over cotton soil.
Meshra El Hedeiba
8 8 Half a mile before reaching this meshra, the road bends to the S.E.; 1¼ miles E. is the village of Hedeiba, and 2 to 3 miles N.E. is the village of Shegeila. A single flat-topped samr tree marks nearest point for water. A large pool of water always here during the dry season in the river bed. Track passes over grassy plain covered with the usual grasses met with along the road, viz.: aada grass, which grows in wet places as high as 18 feet, and naal, from 1½ to 3 feet high.
Id El Maya
2½ 10½ A descent of ½ mile brings one to this khor skirted with trees; the hamlet of that name lies 2 miles from the river; a meshra and pool here in the dry season. The hamlet of Amara lies 2½ miles N.E. Same country is traversed, with occasional belt of trees.
Khor Abu Seghira 5½ 16 Track passes this khor 1½ miles from the meshra, which is very difficult to find, owing to the jungle and the creepers festooned from tree to tree. No pool there this dry season.
Khoran El Homr 2 18 The “Red Khor,” of which there are three. The second one is 1½ miles on, and the third 1 mile further on. Each khor is thickly fringed with trees, bush, and high grass, after rains. The track is now some 3 or 4 miles from the Rahad. At 23½ miles another khor is crossed, and the ground rises into a stony plateau.
H. Sherif Yagub
6½ 24½ Track passes to E. of this village. Inhabitants are Ashraf.
M. El Egeiga
½ 25 Camping ground is on a bluff 40 feet above bed of river; a pool of water always here in the dry season. Natives say that in the winter months it is not a good camping ground, as it is very feverish at night. Country now becomes much more close, trees and bushes narrow the track in many places, and in the autumn the high grass obscures all view to front or flanks.
M. Abuet El Messih
5 30 This meshra is only 100 yards from the track, but the river is somewhat hidden by the jungle. Very unhealthy camping ground during the autumn and winter. Track continues through bush, with occasional open spaces.
M. El Esheir
3 33 Good camping ground near track, 500 yards from the river. Just after leaving this place, the Arang range can be seen in clear weather. Track as before.
Ein El Lueiga
7 40 Watering place here, on the Rahad, in the dry season; not a good camping ground during or after rains, there being much fever. The track now leaves the vicinity of the Rahad, and for the first 5 miles trends towards the N.E. corner of the Arang hills. The Kassala Province is entered here.
At the 48th mile a depression is passed, where a little water is sometimes found during the rains. Plain covered with grass 1 to 10 feet high in October, which from that month becomes broken down by the wind, and in March is only 2 feet high. Track twists and turns considerably until the hills are reached.
Galaat Arang 18 58 The track strikes these hills about 4 or 5 miles from its S. end; bush is again entered, and track becomes very stony and covered with fallen boulders from the hills.
The hills are mostly rock, covered with laot, and stunted baobab or tebeldi trees. Ariel, gazelle, bustard, guinea fowl, sand grouse, apes, and baboons in these hills. A mile on two pools of water are formed in a shallow rocky depression during rains, which is only fit for camels. Track follows the foot of the hills towards the N., through bush and over stony ground.
El Fau (Rest house) 9 67 Track passes through a gorge in the hills, wherein are the wells of El Fau, near the E. mouth of the gorge. One well, stone faced, 10 feet in diameter, 27 feet deep; surface of water 1 foot from top in October, 10 feet in March. The other, stone faced, 5 feet in diameter, 15 to 20 feet deep. Water, both good. There are several other wells in the vicinity during rains, and pools of water in holes and depressions.
Track runs along the E. foot of the hills to the N. point; bushy and stony.
North End Arang 5 72 Near the N.W. point of the Arang hills is H. Badad, or H. Sheikh Shah El Din; one well, now filled up. General direction of track is now N.E. To the S. is seen J. Fines, or Fenis, and to the S.E. is J. Sergein. Bush becomes very close; cotton soil.
J. Bayuda 8 80 Or Buwa’da, or Buwada’. A broad, low, conical hill; some water in rocky holes during the rains. Track now runs E. by S., and for the next 8 miles through thick bush; country then becomes more open and covered with grass again.
Ummat Rumeila (Rest house) 19 99 A group of some five or six hills, averaging 80 to 100 feet high. Some water in pools and holes during rains. The track passes in a N.E. direction through the hills; several patches of bush are traversed. At the 110th mile a narrow belt of laot trees, 10 yards broad, commences to run alongside or in the middle of the track; this belt follows the road for 13 miles.
Taras Wad El Fahl (Rest house) 20 119 A small depression, wherein water lies during rains. Two thorn bushes to S. of track mark it.
Khor Abu Hashim 7 126 A descent leads to this very shallow khor, and a similar rise takes place on its E. side. J. Tiwawa now becomes visible to the E. Track runs over a grassy plain with not even a shrub on it.
Khor Abu Faraga 11 137 Or Abu Fura. This khor rises near Gedaref, and at this point the track meets it; it here turns S. The track runs parallel with it for a mile, 2 to 400 yards distant. At the 139th mile ground falls gently.
Um Gulgia 3 140 A stony mound on left of the track containing several deep holes, said to contain enough water for 1,000 men and 500 camels during the rains.
Ground still falls gently, and a mile on a small khor is crossed; then ground ascends through small scattered soffar trees. At the 143rd mile the houses of Gedaref are visible. Track passes several hamlets on either side, and through much cultivation and high aada grass, along S. side of J. Tiwawa.
Gedaref 6 146 On top of a long gentle slope.
22. — ГЕДАРЕФ через ХАВАТУ до АБУ-ХАРАЗА.
Майор Балкли-Джонсон, ноябрь 1901 г.
Place. Miles. Description.
Inter-mediate. Total.
Gedaref — — Road leaves Gedaref from behind the old barracks, and takes a S.W. direction for 6 miles. Scattered cultivation of every kind. A flat basin like that N. of Gedaref.
J. Wad Sennat 4½ 4½ Small hill 100 feet high and 500 yards long, running N.W. and S.E., with small hella S. slope.
Abu Nagar
1½ 6 Tukl village. ½ mile right of road; one of Abu Nagar group of five villages.
½ 6½ Ditto on left of road.
½ 7 Well 30 feet deep; water always, but only 6 feet deep; watered 80 horses in 30 minutes.
½ 7½ Hella ½ mile right of road. Road bends to S.W. by W.
1½ 9 Cultivation ends. Road bad from small bushes hidden in naal grass.
J. Matni 17 26 J. Matni ½ mile long, 50 to 100 feet high; stony and covered with habil trees. Woods round J. Matni (soffar and habil) to the E.
From J. Matni to Beila by direct road 2 miles are saved. After J. Matni road branches to right, straight to Beila; left to Ghanem or Ganam (meaning water holes).
Ghanem
3 29 Small khor and 12 water holes about 8 feet deep, and water 1 foot 6 inches (Nov. 15th); probably dry by end of month (1901), rain having been slightly under average.
2 31 Joins main road nearly at right angles.
15½ 46½ Small hill ¼ mile off the road. Road afterwards curls in between it and Beila to two small hellas on far side.
Beila[15]
½ 47 Two small villages and two splendid wells cut in solid rock; any amount of beautiful clear water all the year round[15], 50 feet deep; revetted at top; very good grasses here. From Beila a road now goes to Mafaya on the Rahad, which is much shorter than going to Hawata.
El Fereikh
5 52 Thirty tukls; inhabited all the year road; now water from holes dry in March, 1902.
J. Arid
5 57 Four water holes 6 inches deep, nearly empty on arrival; when opened up to 9 inches gave 3 feet muddy water. Nov. 17th watered 80 horses three times; dry in March, 1902.
J. Gerein — — Water nearly finished; 30 tukls inhabited all year round.[16] Later on get water from Rahad, which is here about 60 yards wide and water 4 feet deep in Nov. Banks steep.
Hawata
18 75 Very good camp. Fairly large village here.
Road follows the river, never more than 2 miles from it, cutting off small bends. Single track; good through long grass; bad for guns as wheels or teams are going through the grass. River approachable everywhere, and watering possible at all times of year.
Camps exceedingly good under shade of sunt trees 30-40 feet high. Grasses in abundance and good, neghil, abu rokba and abu arid.
From Hawata track proceeds along right bank and enters bush.
Wad Keriam
2½ 77½ Part of Hawata belonging to Abu Bakr; small hills; clearing and cultivation.
½ 78 Ten tukls, ditto, ditto.
Bush and grass alternately; thick bush, inland kittr and talh.
8 86 Grass plain. Bend of river meeting it again at
Wad Kerein
5 91 Fifty tukls belonging to Abu Sin, as does all the country up to hella Sherif El Hindi.
Wad Mayim or Wad Balula 2 93 Same as Wad Kerein.
8 101 Road crosses to left bank. Ford on Nov. 13th, about 3 feet deep; Nov. 24th, 6 inches deep. There is no road on E. bank, only thick bush. From here open grass plain, bush inland, ½ mile off river bends from road.
Between road and river a strip of country with big red sunt trees 30-40 feet high and good grasses. The road now strikes khor—thickly wooded leading to lagoon running W. from river, which turns to S.W., road goes round it turning W. and afterwards S.
7 108 Head of lagoon.
Muttu
½ 108½ Road branches to right of hella—Hawata (Arabs) 1½ miles off—300 yards from river in open bush.
1½ 110 Road to Muttu and meshra, 1 mile of thick bush, kitr and talh.
1 111 Khor (dry).
2 113 Big khor, nearly dry—very difficult during rains and up to Nov. 1st, 1901. Soft mud Nov. 27th.
2½ 115½ Small road to right, leading to big khor thickly wooded, water 4 feet deep or lagoon.
1½ 117 Khor (dry).
2½ 119½ Ditto leading to meshra.
Road alternately bush and grass.
6½ 126 Road branches to meshra.
6 132 Approaches meshra, 200 yards.
11 143 Deserted village, 100 yards left of road.
Road very good, broad and hard.
3 146 Cross road from Rahad to Dinder.
10 156 Ditto to Blue Nile.
1 157 Road from meshra to hella, inland 2 miles.
4 161 Opposite to Ein El Lueiga.
3 164 Road branches to right towards river—left to Sherif El Hindi.
Aruth Rutha 2 166 Road to Hella Aruth.
Hafeira 2½ 168 Hella; Arab encampment; flocks and herds.
Wad Rekeih 1½ 170 Hella, 100 yards right of road.
Sherif 2 172 Hella of Sherif Yusef El Hindi.
4½ 176½ Ford and road to Sherif Yakub. Road crosses river.
Abu Haraz 24½ 201 (Afterwards see map).
[Rahad ceased to flow Nov. 30th, 1901; only a slight trickle on 29th.]
23. — СОФИ через АБУ-ГУЛУД до СЕРАФ-САИДА.
Майор Г. де Х. Смит, февраль 1900 г.
Place. Miles. Description.
Inter-mediate. Total.
Sofi — — Road goes down into khor and then winding through bushes and water courses follows crest of ridge between Atbara and Khor Gurri, then turns E. towards Kreder.
Kreder 6 6 A village of about 100 huts on spur above river, and not as shown on old maps.
Sherif Ibrahim
9 15 There is no road now; I went across country, crossing ravines bordering Atbara, camels followed edge of plateau about 5 hours’ march from Sofi. No village, only tombs of former inhabitants. Path leads from village to Meshra on Atbara.
Dabuli
12 27 Left Sherif Ibrahim in a S.W. direction, and after 1 hour struck old path from Sofi; followed this, and after 2 hours came on cultivation. A big khor runs in N.E. direction towards Atbara. There are old wells here and site of village. New wells are being opened.
Goreisha
15 42 Road now crosses khor above mentioned twice, and after 2 hours J. Tomborgu is passed on the right. From here road crosses three big khors, and in the next Khor J. Omrad, then cultivation of Goreisha is reached on left of road. Right side, thick bush. Another hour and Goreisha is reached; two villages with good wells and cultivation in khor.
Abu Gulud
4 46 Road now crosses and recrosses this khor, which runs from Abu Gulud; after half an hour village of Salama is passed on khor on right, and after half hour arrive at Abu Gulud. Two villages; wells and cultivation. From here a track goes to Doka.
Zemalat
20 66 Road leaves here in S.W. direction; about 1 mile Agala, a large village, is passed; about 4 miles on a rocky ridge; ditto about 8 miles; about 10 miles village Lubaina. Few huts here. People only here for cultivation; water from Zemalat village on crest or ridge. Water from holes in khor below village, about 1 mile away. From here a good view of hills near Doka and J. Nahut, J. Gadabi, and Ras El Fil obtainable.
Seraf Said
10 76 Road now descends from ridge, cotton soil and bad going; about 6 miles out J. Meriod is passed on right of track—village round other side of hill. Direct track leads off to right to village; bad going cotton soil. Rocky water hole in Meriod Khor not used now; about 10th mile cross Seraf Khor.