El Hejera 1½ 99 A large zeriba of Osman Digna’s is passed.
Um Bashim 2 101 The name of this district. After passing through two patches of bush about a mile apart, the country becomes open and sandy, and sand ridges appear to the east.
El Siwan 8 109 Here the river may be approached, and further on the track passes within a few yards of the river bank.
Shellalab (Rest House near here). 10½ 119½ Shellalab, a sandy hill covered with marakh bushes. From here the track continues to the river bank, through scattered marakh bush, and sand hills lie away to the east. The river can be approached almost anywhere, and the path is never more than about ½ a mile from it. Jebel Ayob is visible about 7 miles due east.
Gala Amarus — —
Meshra Baluk or Um Beiba (Rest House). 21½ 141
From here the path traverses scattered bush, and in places badly cracked cotton soil, indicating the existence of water in the rains, and gradually ascends an easy slope on to the plateau, and thus cuts off a bend in the river.
Debba Gulal 13 154 Debba Gulal.
Meshra
7 161 The descent from the plateau begins 3 miles further on, and the river is struck at a good meshra.
Meshra Mitateb (Rest House). 3 164 The path continuing near the river, Mitateb, the first meshra in the Hadendoa country, is reached. The Bisharin country on right bank ends here, as also the Berber Province; the Province of Kassala is now entered. Rest house here.
From here the path gradually ascends a gentle slope to the plateau, from where Jebels Ofreik and Erembat soon become visible. Scattered heglig, tundub, and samr trees are noticeable, of these samr predominate as Goz Regeb is approached.
Goz Regeb (Rest House) 15 179 Two miles before reaching old telegraph hut the road descends from the plateau, and the river is reached at this hut, which forms a good halting place. The village of Goz Regeb is situated on a slight eminence close to the river on the left bank, and is marked by a few dom palms. Some Government buildings are now in course of construction on the right bank, the idea being that Goz Regeb should form a sanatorium for Kassala during the rains. The direct track to Kassala and that in general use leaves J. Erembat to the north, and strikes straight across the level plain. At about 38 miles, Bir Teishum is passed in the bed of a branch of the Gash, about 3 miles off the direct road. It has been lately opened up, and has a good supply of water, and Arabs were living here (March, 1902). There is little shade to be had on this road until after passing Khor Ebret, when kurmet and other green trees and bushes become numerous. On nearing the Gash, signs of cultivation appear.
Bir Teishum (Rest House) 38 217
Khor Ebret 20 237
Khor Gash 5 242
Tukruf
1¾ 243¾ Many wells in bed of Gash; unlimited supply of water.
Kassala 2¾ 246½ Destination.
Another Route may be taken from GOZ REGEB viâ ASUBRI to KASSALA.
Goz Regeb
179 179 The track ascends to the plateau and follows the edge of it, leaving the river several miles to the west. There are several meshras, all of which, however, are almost impossible to find without a guide.
Meshra Um Bereika
30 209 This meshra is somewhere about half-way.
Asubri
35 244 Good meshra and shade.
Goz El Handal 8½ 252½ About 5 miles after leaving the river for Kassala, the road from Suweihil joins in, and rather thick laot and kittr bush is traversed till reaching Goz El Handal, an open gravelly plain with short grass extending for about 2 miles From here to Umsiteiba there is little bush.
Umsiteiba 13 265½ A place where water stands in the rains; not much shade.
Khor Garatet 3 268½ Rather swampy and difficult for camels in the rains.
Khor Um Dahan 6 274½ Water stands in this khor in the rains. It is about 6 yards wide and 3 feet deep.
Khor Kunti 6 280½ There are Arab settlements near here in the rains for cultivation. After passing through some rather thick laot, &c., bush, Khor Kunti, about 8 yards wide and 6 feet deep, is crossed.
Khor Gash 4¼ 284¾ Many marakh and kurmet bushes until the Gash is reached.
Kassala ¾ 285½
4. — СУАКИН до ТОКАРА.
Лейтенант А. М. Таггарт, 1-й Бомбейский уланский полк, июль 1896 г.; капитан Маккеррелл, полк Кэмеронских горцев, декабрь 1897 г.
Place. Miles. Description.
Inter-mediate. Total.
Suakin — — For the first 25 miles the track is well defined, and leads over hard ground never more than a mile or two from the sea shore. During the next 6 miles it changes in character, and for the last 25 miles leads through bushes and over sandhills, the tracks varying according to the season and the difficulties (drifting sand, &c.) to be encountered. There is no water to be had on the way. A telegraph line leads direct from Suakin to Tokar, but does not always follow the best road.
Leaving Suakin in a S.S.E. direction, the track is broad and distinct, passing over hard, sandy ground, with a few bushes 1 to 3 feet high.
Khor Gwob 7½ 7½ Crosses broad Khor Gwob.
3 10½ Track now 5 to 10 feet broad, approaches sea shore, then bears away again. Near this point (4 hours from Suakin) there are reported to have been some wells in 1885; water 6 feet down and brackish, hardly ever used.
2 12 Saw some trees due east, halfway to the sea; said to be wells of Helub. Water bitter, and but little used.
3 15 Track meets telegraph line.
2½ 17½ Over rising ground. Extensive view in all directions to the westward, well-defined khor trending north-west. Sparse bushes 2 to 3 feet high, ground hard and sandy, overlying coral. Track descends again; then level ground.
Khor Asab 7½ 25 Reached Khor Asab, which runs in from the hills to the west; it is called half-way to Tokar. Here a track branches off to the left, and leads to Teb.
6 31 Mud huts in ruins. Track becomes narrow and indistinct. Bush thicker, 4 to 8 feet high.
Surface shifting sand, with clay patches.
8 39 Crosses several small khors, sometimes traces of water here. Bush very thick.
Khor Tamai 2 41 Small pool of rainwater (at certain seasons only).
Mamuria 4 45 Ruined Mamuria of Mumtaz Pasha—mud house. Telegraph line crossed three times since the 31st mile. Bush becomes thicker.
Old Tokar 5 50 Old Tokar—in ruins. Broken ground and thick bush.
Abdulla Rai
2 52 Abdulla Rai Fort (fat loopholed tower, with pointed roof), on an eminence, visible from some distance. Nine wells here, water good—never known to fail, 54 feet down (July). Large herds of camels and goats in the district. Thick bush all round.
Track now due south-east to Tokar, surface hard and clayey, covered in places with drifted sand; bush 3 to 6 feet high. Tokar signal tower visible.
3 55 Leave the bush, across level mud plain to
Tokar
1 56 Tokar, vide Part I, Chap. III.
5. — ТРИНКИТАТ до ТОКАРА через ТЕБ.
Капитан Бауэр, Индийский штабной корпус, и редактор, июль 1896 г.
Place. Miles. Description.
Inter-mediate. Total.
Trinkitat — — The whole road from Trinkitat to Tokar is passable for all arms, and it is only when approaching Tokar that the scrub about the country becomes thick enough to interfere with the action of cavalry.
For 2½ miles from Trinkitat the road runs along a broad embankment, on which for 1 mile an 18-inch gauge railway has been laid down. After leaving the embankment there is a sandy stretch, and then about 2 miles of narrow embankment just broad enough for the railway line. This embankment in places has rather a serpentine course, and would have to be straightened before rails could be laid down.
El Teb
7 7 At El Teb there is a small fort, and an ample supply of water at a depth of 17 feet.
Three wells inside fort and numerous ones outside, these latter mostly for animals.
The water in the different wells varies in quality, but is all slightly brackish. No ill effects, however, appear to attend drinking it, and the men quartered there spoke favourably of it.
The parapet of the fort is a brick wall 10 feet high, 1½ feet thick; ditch 11 feet broad, 8 feet deep. Signal tower as at Tokar, 43 feet high. Scene of battle of El Teb, 29th February, 1884, just north of present fort.
There are two roads from Teb to Tokar, both broad (30-50 yards) clearings through the bush. The “new” road is the straightest, but leads over soft sandhills and is rarely used. The other road bears gradually westwards a mile south of Teb, and cannot be missed if the traveller keeps on the west edge of the clearing. Excellent going for all arms. Bush on either side 3 to 10 feet high.
Abdulla Rai
8 15 Junction of Suakin track. Abdulla Rai Fort, ½ mile west of track.
Tokar 2½ 17½ Tokar.
6. (α) — СУАКИН до ЭРКОВИТА через ТАМАНЕБ и ХОР-АРАБ.
Майор Пауэлл, инженерные войска, март 1903 г.
Place. Miles. Description.
Inter-mediate. Total.
Suakin — — Leaving Suakin by the Shaata Gate the track leads S.W. up the plain reaching the granite outcrops of the foot hills. Over broken, but easy ground to Tamaneb, where there is running water.
Tamaneb
8 18 The track passes W. of Tamaneb and ascends the flat valley bottom of Khor Gwob to 22 miles, where the junction with the Khor Nagit is reached. Leaving the route to Sinkat, which goes on up Gwob, the track turns S.W. up Khor Nagit till 27 miles, and then crosses a short rocky agaba into Khor Manab. Descending this easy valley, at 29½ miles the junction with Khor Arab is reached. To avoid a gorge the track ascends the hillside about 150 feet by a different rock path descending into the valley at 30½ miles. Up the valley, easy going, for about a mile pass running water (brackish and unpleasant), then ascend by steep zigzags up the left bank (1 in 4 at worst), after ½ mile along the steep hillside cross the valley and rise by a steep path to the saddle separating Khor Arab from the Khor Dahand. Descend into the latter by a rocky path and, after ascending with difficulty the rocky torrent bed for another ½ mile, reach the foot of the Agatba agaba at mile 34. A steep climb of ¾ mile brings one to the summit, after which the route crosses easy rises and dips to Erkowit at mile 39.
Erkowit
21 39
Good hill camels lightly laden took 11 marching hours from Erkowit to Suakin by this route, and would take about 14 hours to ascend. The track is not fit for horses or fully laden mules.
(β) — СУАКИН до ЭРКОВИТА через перевал КОЛКАЛАИ.
Майор Пауэлл, инженерные войска, март 1903 г.
Place. Miles. Description.
Inter-mediate. Total.
Suakin — — Track leaves Suakin S.S.W. over the plain. At mile 13 crosses Khor Gwob, a wide open wadi with low banks and thick bush. This Khor is occasionally impassable when in flood. About mile 16 the road reaches the granite outcrops of the foothills, and descends into a wadi at Taharoi (mile 17), where there are usually several wells much resorted to for watering flocks. This year only one well and that almost dry. Depth to water usually 10 feet.
Taharoi
17 17
Tracks leads S. to Khor Tehela, leaving J. Gumberit to E. At mile 20 usually a well, but dry this year. Then S.W. into the Khor Dahand at 25 miles; track enters the hills and goes for 3 miles up the easy valley. At mile 28 there is water in the hill to S. and several Hadendoa tukls.
Track then takes to hillside, rising by zigzags up the end of a spur. At first 1 in 6, then 1 in 4 to the ridge, then very steeply 1 in 3 to another col, by short zigzags and rocky steps; very bad for pack animals, but good hill camels get up with light loads. Track descends along hillside for about 1 mile; all green, with shrubs, grass and ferns. Francolin, partridge and quail plentiful. Some bad places in descent, then easy path, and again short difficult rise to the edge of the Erkowit plateau.
Total ascent from Khor Dahand a little over 2,000 feet.
Camels took 3 hours. The track is not fit to ride over.
Erkowit
17 34 After about ¾ mile Erkowit is reached.
Leaving this route at mile 20 a track leads up Khor Masilli, S. of Dahand; the bad ascent on this is shorter, but equally bad, and the whole distance is longer.
7. (α) — ЭРКОВИТ до СИНКАТА через равнины БАРАМИЛ.
Майор Пауэлл, инженерные войска, март 1903 г.
Place. Miles. Description.
Inter-mediate. Total.
Erkowit — — South over easy ground to head of Khor Amrat, down the sandy bed of the khor W.N.W. Leaving the khor the track rises for ¼ mile over a stony slope, reaching the Baramil Plain at 4 miles from Erkowit. For 14 miles the track runs W.N.W. over the firm surface of the plains. Large herds of ariel are seen, a few flocks and nomad Arabs, but no water. Down stony and occasionally narrow khor N.W. to Towai Wells, which are at side of khor 12 feet deep. Water fair and plentiful.
Towai Wells
18¾ 18¾
Sinkat
2¾ 21½ Down Khor Towai over a low stony rise and descend W.N.W.; wide khor until it joins the open Sinkat Valley and reaches the well and ruins of the old Fort at 21½ miles.
(β) — ЭРКОВИТ до СИНКАТА через ХОР-ГЕБЕТ.
Майор Пауэлл, инженерные войска, март 1903 г.
Place. Miles. Description.
Inter-mediate. Total.
Erkowit — — Route descends the valley W.S.W. from Erkowit by rocky surface track over ridges and dips, rising after 2½ miles by a stony ascent to the edge of Baramil plateau. This length is the worst part of the route, it is practicable, but not good for loaded camels, and is easily capable of improvement by unskilled labour.
Gebet Well
14¼ 14¼ Along Baramil plateau, W. for about 2 miles, then N.N.W. over gentle ascent, and cross an easy but stony agaba, and descent N. down a khor leading to the open valley of Gebet. No obstacle. Gentle descent N.W. to the well at 14¼ miles. Water good; large flocks and herds; one well 30 feet deep. Down the open valley W.N.W. 3 miles, where route is joined by the direct track from Suakin to Sinkat, viâ the Sinkat agaba, then W. 1 mile to a short stony agaba leading into the Khor Abu Shid, the main valley of which is reached at mile 20. Thence easy going over a wide wadi to Sinkat at mile 23.
Sinkat
8¾ 23
8. — КАССАЛА до СУАКИНА через ФИЛИК, МАМАН и ХОР-СИТАРАБ.
Подполковник Митфорд, апрель 1899 г.
(Исправлено по состоянию на 1900 г.)
Place. Miles. Description.
Inter-mediate. Total.
Kassala — — On leaving Kassala, a N. by W. direction is taken over flat, sandy ground, intersected by small khors running into the Khor El Gash; many low trees of the acacia tribe and the green-leafed kurmet bush, but passage among them easy in any direction.
Khor Debeloeid 5½ 5½ A shallow khor, flowing from S.S.W. to N.N.E. two miles on; this khor is recrossed, flowing westward; here the trees are thicker and taller.
Khor Gamam 3½ 9 A branch of the Khor El Gash, 20 feet deep, 15 to 20 yards wide; proceeding down the khor for ½ mile the wells are reached. Banks thickly fringed with high tamarisks; bush very close.
Bir Gamam
½ 9½ Two wells; now 12 feet deep, 3 feet diameter; water plentiful. Many wells exist now in this khor for about 2 miles N. from this point. After winding about in the bush for a mile, country again becomes open; many open spaces half-a-mile to a mile in breadth. Direction N. A good deal of cultivation here.
Gamam 5½ 15 Formerly a large Hadendoa hamlet; its site now marked by a stony mound to the E. known as Habuba. A mile on one passes many skulls and human bones scattered all over the ground for some distance. This spot was the scene of the first encounter of the Kassala garrison and the Dervishes in the winter of 1883-4. Later on Osman Digna had a large standing camp of Hadendoa at the same place. Arabs say “20,000 young men” were collected there and guarded by Baggara horsemen, who, when food failed, refused to let them leave; so many hundreds died of starvation.
Hageror 9 24 The name of the district. At this point, 1 mile W. of our route, is the site of the old telegraph maintenance post of the old Suakin—Kassala telegraph line, close to a branch of the Khor El Gash (Khor Herbub). Arabs say water can be found 10 to 15 feet below the surface anywhere in this khor; fringed with high trees. Direction now is E.N.E.; country as before, but cotton soil.
Khor Bahr Shamil 3½ 27½ A shallow depression, 200 to 300 yards broad, no defined banks, thickly grown over by laot trees.
Khor Delai 3 30½ Twenty yards broad, 4 feet deep, flowing W. High trees along banks. At the 33rd mile the trees disappear; country is cotton soil with tussocks of grass, full of holes and breaks away at every step. Very bad going for men and animals. As the Khor Herbub is approached, grass, 3 feet high, becomes thicker.
Khor Herbub 10¾ 41¼ A branch of the Gash, 20 feet broad, 20 feet deep. Proceed due W. for 1¼ miles through high trees.
Bir Tokar
1¼ 42½ One well,[7] 20 feet deep, 3 feet diameter, 1 foot of water at bottom of well. After drawing 400 gallons supply was exhausted and water came in very slowly. Water good. Good grazing for horses and camels, and plenty of shade. Retracing one’s steps back across the Khor Herbub, a direction 72° (true) was taken and followed as far as Khor Togan. Bad cotton soil and tussocks of grass as before.
Filik
2½ 45 Formerly the largest and most important collection of hamlets of the Hadendoa of the Gash. Now no traces, with the exception of three charred dom palm trees, which supported the roof of the old telegraph maintenance post. Many wells, and water plentiful in Khor Tokar ½ mile W.
Going very bad; at the 49th mile belts of laot trees are passed through. At the 53rd mile surface of ground improves; more sandy, with patches of small stones or pebbles.
J. Tisheiga 11 56 One mile to right. Ground now descends gently; several small khors are crossed, running westward; trees in khors and along banks, kittr and samr. Ground sandy, with occasional patches of stones; excellent going.
Khor Yelkuk 5 61 Also called Telkuk. One hundred yards broad, flowing westwards. Ten miles up this khor are wells and an Arab settlement. Many trees; good grazing for camels. Two miles to the north are low black hills called J. Kadabu. Country as before.
Khor Taugon 5½ 66½ One hundred yards broad, banks 4 feet high. One well here not yet reopened, in bed of khor; high trees and dom palms in bed and along banks. Two and half miles E. is J. Taugon. General direction 62°.
Khor Shamfeid 2½ 69 A small khor running into Khor Maman. Same direction being followed, J. Maman with its four peaks straight ahead. Ground rises gently and then descends towards the Khor Maman; with stones in places.