«Англо-египетский Судан: Справочник для офицеров правительства Судана, Том 2»

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АНГЛО-ЕГИПЕТСКИЙ СУДАН:

СПРАВОЧНИК, ПОДГОТОВЛЕННЫЙ ОФИЦЕРАМИ ПРАВИТЕЛЬСТВА СУДАНА.

ПОД РЕДАКЦИЕЙ ПОДПОЛКОВНИКА ГРАФА ГЛИЧЕНА, C.V.O., C.M.G., D.S.O. (Бывший директор разведки правительства Судана и египетской армии, агент Судана в Каире.)

Том II. (МАРШРУТЫ.)

ЛОНДОН: ОТПЕЧАТАНО ДЛЯ КАНЦЕЛЯРИИ ЕГО ВЕЛИЧЕСТВА В ТИПОГРАФИИ HARRISON AND SONS, СЕНТ-МАРТИНС-ЛЕЙН, ПРИДВОРНЫЕ ПЕЧАТНИКИ ЕГО ВЕЛИЧЕСТВА.

Издание можно приобрести непосредственно или через любого книготорговца у WYMAN AND SONS, Ltd., Феттер-Лейн, E.C.; или OLIVER & BOYD, Эдинбург; или E. PONSONBY, 116, Графтон-стрит, Дублин.

1905 г. Цена семь шиллингов и шесть пенсов.

(Вес 8207 1000 9 | 05—H & S 3874)

РЕДАКЦИОННОЕ ПРИМЕЧАНИЕ К ТОМУ II.

Маршруты в этом томе сгруппированы в соответствии с главами тома I.

Дополнительные материалы представлены в виде приложения, описывающего основные маршруты, ведущие за пределы Судана.

Почти весь том был отредактирован капитаном Г. Х. С. Морантом (помощником директора разведки), которому я приношу свою глубокую благодарность; капитан У. Ллойд несет основную ответственность за отличные маршруты в Кордофане.

Промежуточные пункты, где можно найти воду (за исключением тех, что очевидно расположены на реке), выделены курсивом.

[Поскольку невозможно предоставить карту, на которой были бы указаны даже все упомянутые конечные пункты, путешественникам рекомендуется обращаться к карте в конце тома I и к картам топографической съемки Судана (масштаб 1:250 000), список которых приведен в томе I на стр. 349.]

Некоторое количество экземпляров каждой главы этого тома было напечатано и переплетено отдельно в прочные бумажные обложки для практического использования во время путешествий. В Египте за ними следует обращаться к директору разведки Военного министерства Египта в Каире или к любому книготорговцу в Великобритании, у которого их можно приобрести по цене один шиллинг за экземпляр.

Г.

Берлин, 2 апреля 1905 г.

ОГЛАВЛЕНИЕ.

ТОМ II. (ЧАСТЬ III.) (МАРШРУТЫ.)

CHAPTERS I and II.

Nil.

CHAPTER III.

NORTH-EASTERN SUDAN.

PAGE

No. 1. — No. 6 Station to Deraheib. (Talbot) 1

„ 2. — Suakin to Berber — (α) Northerly route. (Sparkes) 5

(β) Southerly „ „ 9

„ 3. — Berber to Kassala. (Various) 12

„ 4. — Suakin to Tokar. (Various) 14

„ 5. — Trinkitat to Tokar. (Bower) 15

„ 6. — Suakin to Erkowit — (α) viâ Tamaneb and K. Arab. (Powell) 16

(β) viâ Kolkalai Pass. (Powell) 16

„ 7. — Erkowit to Sinkat — (α) viâ Baramil Plains. (Powell) 17

(β) viâ K. Gebet. (Powell) 17

„ 8. — Kassala to Suakin, viâ Filik and Maman. (Mitford) 18

„ 9. — Tokar to Kassala, viâ K. Baraka. (Various) 22

„ 10. — Kassala to Maman direct. (Morant) 26

„ 11. — Adarama to Bir Oshi (K. Langeb). (Kenrick) 27

„ 12. — El Getite to Adarama. (Kenrick) 29

„ 13. — Umbrega to Sofi. (Morant) 30

N.B.—Other routes which apply to this chapter are:—

No. 123. — Aswan to Deraheib. (Appendix) 195

„ 19. — Gedaref to Kassala. (Chap. IV) 41

„ 14. — Khartoum N. to Kassala. (Chap. IV) 32

„ 124. — Kassala to Massaua. (Appendix) 196

„ 125. — Takarashorit to Umbrega. (Appendix) 200

CHAPTER IV.

EASTERN SUDAN.

No. 14. — Khartoum N. to Kassala, viâ Geili, Rera and Asubri. (Talbot, Boulnois and Morant) 32

„ 15. — Goz Regeb to Shendi, viâ Abu Deleig. (Boulnois) 36

„ 16. — El Damer to Fasher. (Bulkeley Johnson) 36

„ 17. — Khartoum N. to Abu Deleig. (Native information) 39

„ 18. — Rufaa to Geili. (Talbot) 40

„ 19. — Gedaref to Kassala. (Mitford and Morant) 41

„ 20. — „ Gallabat. (Collinson and Morant) 43

„ 21. — Abu Haraz to Gedaref. (Mitford) 45

„ 22. — Gedaref, viâ Hawata, to Abu Haraz. (Bulkeley Johnson) 47

„ 23. — Sofi viâ Abu Gulud to Seraf Said. (Smith) 48

„ 24. — Famaka to Abu Ramla. (Gwynn) 49

„ 25. — Karkoj to Hawata. (Bonham Carter) 50

„ 26. — Roseires to Abu Shaneina. (Gwynn) 50

„ 27. — Senga, viâ Durraba, to Um El Rug. (Amery) 51

„ 28. — Mouth of Khor Gelagu (Dinder) to Gallabat. (Amery) 52

„ 29. — Gallabat to Wad Medani, viâ R. Rahad. (Lewin) 53

„ 30. — Itinerary of Blue Nile. (Amery) 57

N.B.—Other routes which apply to this chapter are:—

No. 126. — Gallabat to Chelga. (Appendix) 202

„ 127. — Lake Tsana (Goja) to Gandoa. (Appendix) 204

„ 128. — Addis Abbaba to Gallabat. (Appendix) 206

„ 130. — Roseires to Dunkur. (Appendix) 215

„ 131. — Dunkur to Gallabat. (Appendix) 217

CHAPTER V.

CENTRAL SUDAN.

No. 31. — Khartoum to Wad Medani, Sennar, Senga and Karkoj (L. B. Blue Nile). (Compiled) 61

„ 32. — Khartoum to Goz Abu Guma and Jebelein, viâ R. B. White Nile. (Conolly, Boulnois) 63

„ 33. — „ Gule, viâ Managil and Segadi. (Morant) 66

„ 34. — Managil to Sennar. (Smyth) 70

„ 35. — Keili, viâ Gule, to Senga. (Gorringe) 70

„ 36. — Senga to Jerok, viâ K. Ofat. (Roberts) 71

„ 37. — Roseires to Keili, viâ Gule. (Smith) 73

„ 38. — Fazogli to Gezan. (Jackson) 73

„ 39. — Gezan to Kurmuk. (Gwynn) 75

„ 40. — Gule to Renk. (Morant) 75

„ 41. — Jebelein to Renk. (Wilson) 76

„ 42. — Renk to Kaka Old Wood Station. (Morant) 77

„ 43. — „ Kodok (R. B.) partly along Telegraph line. (Wilson) 79

„ 44. — J. Ahmed Agha to Awitong and Kash-Kash. (Wilson) 82

„ 45. — Itinerary up Khor Adar. (Wilson) 83

„ 46. — J. Jerok to Wad Deluka (52 miles S.E. of Melut). (Smith) 84

„ 47. — Uryong (Sobat) to opposite Kodok. (Gwynn) 85

N.B.—Other routes which apply to this chapter are:—

No. 133. — Kirin to Kodok. (Appendix) 222

„ 132. — Fazogli to Kirin. (Appendix) 218

„ 129. — Addis Abbaba to Famaka. (Appendix) 210

CHAPTER VI.

SOUTH-EASTERN SUDAN.

No. 48. — Nasser to Uryong. (Gwynn) 87

„ 49. — Gokjak to Keik (Khor Filus). (Wilson) 88

„ 50. — Itinerary up the Bahr El Zeraf. (Stanton) 90

N.B.—Other routes which apply to this chapter are:—

No. 47. — Uryong to opposite Kodok. (Chapter V) 85

„ 134. — K. Bosuk, viâ K. Eine, to Goha. (Appendix) 225

„ 135. — Goha, viâ K. Barsu, to Bosuk. (Appendix) 225

„ 136. — Camp (K. Bosuk) to Asosa. (Appendix) 226

„ 137. — Asosa to K. Bosuk, viâ K. Surgalla. (Appendix) 227

„ 138. — Gore to Abwong. (Appendix) 227

CHAPTER VII.

BAHR EL GHAZAL.

No. 51. — Meshra el Rek to Tonj. (Lloyd) 93

„ 52. — Wau to Meshra el Rek. (Lloyd) 94

„ 53. — Tonj Post to Wau. (Lloyd) 95

„ 54. — Tonj Post to Rikta’s Village. (Lloyd) 97

„ 55. — Wau to Tembura. (Bethel) 99

„ 56. — Wau to Deim Zubeir. (Boulnois and Sparkes) 100

„ 57. — Chak Chak to Deim Zubeir. (Fell) 101

„ 58. — Deim Zubeir to Kossinga. (Boulnois) 102

„ 59. — Kossinga to Wau. (Boulnois) 103

„ 60. — „ Hofrat el Nahas. (Sparkes) 104

„ 61. — Ragaa to Deim Zubeir. (Sparkes) 105

„ 62. — Kojali to Tonj. (Sparkes) 106

„ 63. — Tonj to Rumbek. (Armstrong) 107

„ 64. — Rumbek to Shambe. (Armstrong) 108

„ 65. — Rumbek to Darago’s and M’volo. (Wood) 109

„ 66. — M’volo to Kiro. (Sparkes) 109

„ 67. — Rumbek to Awodi. (Armstrong) 111

„ 68. — „ Mangi’s. (Boardman) 113

N.B.—Another route which applies to this chapter is:—

No. 101. — El Obeid to Dar El Jange. (Chapter VIII) 151

CHAPTER VIII.

KORDOFAN.

No. 69. — Sheikh Sadik to Homra. (Various) 117

„ 70. — El Dueim to Homra. (Various) 117

„ 71. — Homra to El Obeid, viâ Bara. (Various) 118

„ 72. — El Dueim to Obeid, viâ Hashaba. (Lloyd and More) 119

„ 73. — Gedid to El Dueim, viâ Um Deisis. (Lloyd and Talbot) 120

„ 74. — Shat Wells to El Obeid, viâ J. Kon. (Talbot and Lloyd) 120

„ 75. — Shawal to Gedid, Dar El Ahamda and Tagale. (Morant) 122

„ 76. — Goz Abu Guma to Dar El Ahamda. (Morant) 124

„ 77. — „ „ El Obeid, viâ Sherkeila and Rahad. (Leveson) 125

„ 78. — Gedid to El Rahad. (Lloyd) 126

„ 79. — Kaka to opposite Jebelein. (Wilson) 127

„ 80. — Omdurman to El Safia Wells. (Smyth) 129

„ 81. — Debba to El Obeid, viâ Safia. (Currie) 130

„ 82. — Shegeig to El Showa, viâ Kagmar. (Lloyd) 131

„ 83. — Bara to Kagmar. (Lloyd) 132

„ 84. — El Obeid to Foga, viâ Masrub. (Lloyd) 133

„ 85. — „ „ viâ Gleit, etc. (Carter) 134

„ 86. — Abu Agaga to Bara. (O’Connell) 135

„ 87. — Foga to Kaja (Bir Soderi). (Mahon) 136

„ 88. — Nahud to El Fasher. (Carter) 137

„ 89. — „ Bur Islam. (Townsend) 137

„ 90. — „ Foga. (Lloyd and Wilkinson) 138

„ 91. — Foga to Um Badr. (Wilkinson) 139

„ 92. — Bara to Foga. (O’Connell) 140

„ 93. — Nahud to El Eddaiya and Muglad. (Mahon) 141

„ 94. — Foga to El Eddaiya, viâ Kaja Serrug. (Carter) 142

„ 95. — El Obeid to Nahud (direct). (Meyricke) 143

„ 96. — „ „ viâ Abu Zabbat. (Lloyd and Townsend) 144

„ 97. — „ El Eddaiya, viâ Sungikai. (Lloyd and Townsend) 145

„ 98. — „ Keraia (J. Tagale), viâ J. Daier. (Various) 146

„ 99. — Keraia to Rashad and Gedir. (Various) 148

„ 100. — Kaka to Gedir. (Mahon) 148

„ 101. — El Obeid to Dar El Jange. (Wilkinson) 151

„ 102. — River Kir to Fauwel. (Wilkinson) 156

„ 103. — El Obeid to Sungikai, viâ El Atshan. (Lyall) 157

„ 104. — Dilling to El Obeid, viâ Sungikai, etc. (Lyall) 157

„ 105. — Routes in Dar Nuba. (Leveson) 158

CHAPTER IX.

NORTH-WESTERN SUDAN.

No. 106. — Selima to Nile, opposite Kosha. (Hodgson) 167

„ 107. — Dongola to Lagia El Kebir. (Hodgson) 167

„ 108. — „ Bir Sultan. (Hodgson) 169

„ 109. — Debba to El Obeid. (Compiled) 171

„ 110. — „ Omdurman. (Ravenscroft) 172

„ 111. — „ „ viâ Elai. (Compiled) 174

„ 112. — Ambugol or Korti to Metemma. (Compiled) 174

„ 113. — Korti to Bayuda and Sedeiri. (Bunbury and Sudley) 178

„ 114. — Merowe to Jakdul. (Talbot) 179

„ 115. — „ Berber. (Smyth and Friend) 181

„ 116. — Sani to El Zuma, viâ Jura. (Henry) 181

„ 117. — Jura to Kirbekan. (Henry) 182

„ 118. — Omdurman to Gabra. (Talbot) 183

„ 119. — Gabra to Korti. (Talbot) 184

„ 120. — Korti to Bayuda Wells. (Talbot) 186

„ 121. — Bayuda Wells to Tangasi. (Talbot) 187

N.B.—Other routes which apply to this chapter are:—

No. 81. — Debba to El Obeid, viâ Safia. (Chapter VIII) 130

„ 122. — Arbain Road. (Appendix) 189

APPENDIX.

ROUTES PARTLY OUTSIDE THE SUDAN.

No. 122. — The Arbain Road. (Various) 189

„ 123. — Aswan to Deraheib. (Bramly) 195

„ 124. — Kassala to Massaua. (Morant) 196

„ 125. — Takarashorit (K. Gash) to Umbrega (Setit). (Morant) 200

„ 126. — Gallabat to Chelga. (Parker) 202

„ 127. — Lake Tsana (Goja) to Gandoa. (Parker) 204

„ 128. — Addis Abbaba, viâ Gojjam and L. Tsana, to Gallabat. (Baird) 206

„ 129. — „ to Famaka. (Gwynn) 210

„ 130. — Roseires to Abu Ramla and Dunkur. (Gwynn) 215

„ 131. — Dunkur to Gallabat. (Gwynn) 217

„ 132. — Fazogli to Kirin. (Jackson) 218

„ 133. — Kirin to Kodok. (Gwynn) 222

„ 134. — K. Bosuk, viâ K. Eine, to Goha. (Smith) 225

„ 135. — Goha, viâ K. Barsu, to Bosuk. (Smith) 225

„ 136. — Camp (K. Bosuk) to Asosa. (Smith) 226

„ 137. — Asosa to K. Bosuk, viâ Surgalla. (Smith) 227

„ 138. — Gore to Abwong. (Wilson) 227

„ 139. — Gondokoro to Uganda. (Dugmore) 231

„ 140. — Roads in the Lado Enclave. (Various) 236

Карта

Часть III. МАРШРУТЫ.

ГЛАВЫ I и II. (Нет.)

ГЛАВА III.

(СЕВЕРО-ВОСТОЧНЫЙ СУДАН.)

1. — СТАНЦИЯ № 6 (Суданская государственная железная дорога) до ДЕРАХЕЙБА.

Полковник достопочтенный М. Г. Тэлбот, инженерные войска, декабрь 1902 г.

Общие сведения. Описанная ниже дорога — лишь одна из нескольких, которыми можно было воспользоваться, но я полагаю, что она, возможно, является наиболее прямой. Участки между станцией № 6 и Мурратом, а также вдоль вади Алаги должны быть общими для всех маршрутов.

Характер дороги. На дороге нет уклонов, достаточно крутых, чтобы стать серьезным препятствием для вьючных верблюдов, но после выхода из вади Абу-Бард есть немало мест, где каменистый характер дороги утомителен для ног равнинных верблюдов, хотя местные верблюды, по-видимому, не обращают на это внимания.

Вода. Вода встречается редко и не всегда хорошего качества. При движении с караваном следует предусмотреть запас воды как минимум на две ночевки.

Топливо и тень. Как только достигнуто вади Телат-Абда, топливо и тень можно найти без особого труда. До этого момента тени практически нет. Топлива между станцией № 6 и Мурратом нет; немного есть между Мурратом и вади Телат-Абда.

Зерно. Зерно получить невозможно. Овец, коз и немного молока можно найти везде, где встречаются арабы. Местонахождение арабов и их стад зависит от времени года и распределения осадков в предыдущем году.

Place. Hamla Hours. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total. Inter-mediate. Total.

No. 6 Station (S.G.R.)

— — — — No. 6 Station on Halfa-Khartoum Railway, 127 miles from Halfa, and 1,555 feet above sea level.

British foreman. Telegraph office.

No station buildings nor accommodation for persons detained there.

Well with steam pump gives 12,000 gallons daily. Water contains some salts, but drinkable. Nile water can be obtained for small parties from station supply. Some “selem” bushes give firewood and a little grazing for camels. No inhabitants except railway staff. No supplies.

Is the base of the staff of the Egypt and Sudan Mining Syndicate now developing Um Nabari or Nabadi mine.

7 7 — — The track, now pretty well marked, makes straight for the N. end of J. Keheli, after rounding which it makes for J. Mindara, keeping a couple of miles to the N. of it. Road practically level and mostly good trotting surface, though sand a little heavy in places.

3¼ 10¼ — — Road crosses a low saddle and descends into one of the branches of the Wadi Murrat, amongst a lot of low tangled hills. After following the wadi for 300 yards or so, another saddle is crossed to cut off a bend, after which the wadi is followed till it joins the main wadi, just before the fort of Murrat is reached.

Murrat

1 11¼ — 34 The engineer of the Egypt and Sudan Mining Syndicate has fitted a pump in one of the wells in the wadi, which gives cleaner, though not less bitter water than before. The Arabs and Berberi servants drink it uncomplainingly, but Europeans are advised to avoid it if they can. About 10 miles slightly N. of W. up the main Wadi Murrat is the site of the Um Nabari or Nabadi mine, now being developed by the Company. Road quite easy along the wadi.

1½ 35½ On leaving Murrat fort the track keeps down the wadi for 1½ miles, then turns off to the left over somewhat stony ground, and, crossing a saddle and the head of another affluent of the Wadi Murrat about 1½ miles further on, descends easily into the basin of the Wadi Dayob. Across slightly undulating ground, aiming just to the left of J. Abu Dayob, a rocky sand-covered hill (with a pillar on the top) which, though only 200 or 300 feet high, stands up well amidst its surroundings, and turns down the wadi past its northern foot.

1 12¼ 1½ 37

1¾ 14 4 41

½ 41½

½ 14½ ½ 42 Along the wadi passing a gorge about 50 yards wide; wadi then turns rather to S.E. There is some camel grazing here.

1 15½ — — Road now turns to left out of wadi, and, after crossing low ridges for about one hour and passing near some “selem” bushes in one of the wadis, enters a plain ½ to 1 mile broad, and heads generally for J. Kerar Berar.

½ 16 3¾ 45¾ Half-a-mile further on J. Mosiai (pillar on top) is at right angles about 1 to 2 miles distant on left.

1½ 17½ — — Track leaves plain over low ridges and descends by gentle slope obliquely to Wadi Mosiai. There are a few of the peculiar dom palms of the country above where wadi is struck, and a little “selem” and some scrubby plants below. Track keeps down wadi generally, till it gets well clear of the low hills, when it turns half left over open plain, good going, and passes an isolated patch of “selem” bushes in Gabgaba.

1 18½ — —

1¾ 20¼ — —

W. Gabgaba 2 22¼ 16 61¾ The bed of the Gabgaba is ¾ to 1½ miles wide in places, consisting of several channels separated by flat gravel. The bed itself is sandy, honeycombed with rat holes, and very bad going. Immense quantities of the “handal” plant grow in it, and in years of good rainfall dura is cultivated.

2¼ 24½ 6 67¾ Track, leaving the wadi half right, keeps over a gravel plain with gentle slopes till it strikes the W. Telat Abda just outside the low hills.

There is plenty of “selem” in the wadi, giving good camel grazing and abundance of firewood.

Bir Telat Abda

3 27½ 8¼ 76 Track keeps up wadi, occasionally making short cuts to right to get better going, as wadi is heavy in places, to well at foot of rather higher hill on left bank which has two stone pillars.

The well gives good water, but not very much of it. About ¼ mile higher up under the right bank where the wadi forks is another well generally used for watering camels. From here the roads to Abu Tabag and Naba branch. That to Naba keeps straight on, that is up the right-hand branch of the fork. Naba is about 17 miles from Telat Abda, whence it draws its drinking water. Near Telat Abda well is a sayal tree that gives good shade.

J. Liseiwi

3 30½ 6 82 The track starts up the Khor Liseiwi, or left-hand branch of the fork, past the upper well, but soon turns to right from it to cut off a corner, and drops into the khor again at a water hole (generally dry) under Jebel Liseiwi (marked by a pillar).

W. Abaraga 2 32½ 6 88 Keeps up khor and, crossing a low saddle, descends into Wadi Abaraga.

¼ 32¾ ¾ 88¾ Keeps up wadi, which is well wooded with selem, sayal and the single-stemmed fan palm (Medemia argun), and passes some wells close under left bank. The wadi flows through very broken low hills, 200 to 400 feet high.

½ 33¼ 1½ 90¼

1¼ 34½ 3½ 93¾ Track issues on to open space where the hills recede and wadis come in from all directions.

— — 4 97¾ Track now turns N.E., passing between some low hills over gravelly plain, and turns S.E. up wadi, now confined between rounded reddish hills. The palms have now ceased, but selem is still found. The hills soon get lower and wadi less confined.

— — 4¼ 102

— — 4½ 106½ A track from Hesmet Omar.

— — 2¼ 108¾ Saddle at head of Wadi Abaraga is reached, easy ascent and descent commenced over gently sloping gravel to the Wadi Abu Bard which flows through an open valley 2 to 3 miles wide. Plenty of wood in wadi.

Wadi Abu Bard 7¾ 42¼ 2¼ 111

— — 2 113 The same direction is continued across the wadi till a low saddle is crossed, and track descends a branch of Abu Bard for a little more than a mile; then across an open space N.E. up an affluent of the same branch till it crosses a low saddle at its head and descends into an affluent of the Wadi Hesmet Omar. This part is very stony and severe on plains camels, though the gradients are not heavy. The track keeps down the valley, crossing a couple of affluents bounded by low hills, till it reaches another low, but stony saddle, whence it descends into and crosses an affluent of the Wadi Abu Tabag or Wadi Ga; after another 2 miles of stony ground the track descends into another branch of the Abu Tabag wadi, which it follows till it reaches the well.

— — 3½ 116½

— — 5 121½

— — 2 123½

Abu Tabag

5½ 47¾ 2 125½

The valley opens out a bit here, though immediately over the well there are low hills which still carry the breastworks erected by Beshir Bey’s men as a protection against dervishes.

The well is about 20 feet deep, of which the lower 12 feet, is revetted with stone. Plenty of water. Many small partridges.

An Inspector’s rest house has been built here. Some fine sayal trees.

There are a number of dom palms trying to come up, but none have succeeded in showing any trunk yet.

The wadi here is, I believe, called the Wadi Ga, but I am not sure.

Wadi Ga — — 2 127½ The track continues down the wadi for 2 miles and turns off to the left over flat and undulating ground; easy going for some miles, the general direction being a little to the left of J. Kirmai, crosses the Wadi Ga (plenty of selem) and cuts over a low saddle at the north end of Kirmai.

4¼ 52 10 137½

Wadi Abu Kitabab — — 2 139½ After about 2 more miles, heavy going, over sand-covered ridges the track descends into the Wadi Abu Kitabab, which joins the Wadi Ga about 1½ miles below where the track crosses it. There are plenty of trees of several different sorts.

2 54 3 142½ Road continues up wadi for 3 miles to a point where it forks.

— — 4 146½ The southern branch is also called Abu Kitabab. The track to Sohanit and Onib, viâ Mashushenai well (very little water), ascends it. The other branch is called Ebeirid. After ascending it for 4 miles, low saddle is crossed; after 4½ more miles of mostly very stony ground, ending in a short and very rough descent, the Wadi Abdelala is reached. This wadi is here well wooded. Lots of marakh. The track ascends it a short distance and then turns up a side khor, out of it to left into another and over an easy saddle down into Wadi Bitna or Butna; confined bed, high hills on right bank.

Wadi Abdelala 3½ 57½ 4½ 151

1½ 59 4½ 155½ Top of Mashushenai just visible, a few selem and a good many samr trees.

Wells

1½ 60½ 4 159½ Track keeps down wadi, cutting off one or two corners, stony, but not very bad going. The bed gets narrower and low cliffs more perpendicular till wells are reached at a place where a projecting cliff appears to bar the passage. Just before reaching it some tombs are passed.

There are two wells or water holes about 5 feet in diameter, surface of water 6 feet below bed of wadi. Lots of good water.

2 62½ 4½ 164 The track continues, original direction, for about ½ mile and then turns E., and a mile further on meets the Wadi Elei coming from the S.E. The united wadi now flows a little E. of N., the hills diminish and the valley increases in width and the vegetation decreases. After 2 miles the track turns off to right, up what was a good track a year or so ago, but is now barred by waves of sand. After some three miles, most part of which is very heavy going, the track descends into the broad and ill defined bed of an affluent of the Wadi Elei. Little grazing.

3½ 66 10 174 Over bare undulating plain, dotted with hummocky ridges of decomposed granite more or less covered with sand. Good going till a low and easy watershed is crossed and track descends easily to Wadi Nasari, a broad well wooded wadi that comes from Jebel Sohanit, and joins the Alagi a few miles N. of where the track strikes it. Track crosses wadi in the direction of Jebel Eigat and, passing through some low hills, reaches the Wadi Alagi. Track quite easy.

Wadi Nasari 1¼ 67¼ 3 177

Wadi Alagi 1½ 68¾ 4 181

The Wadi Alagi here is at least ½ mile wide, bounded by low hills on both banks, but rising higher behind on the right bank. It contains many refreshingly green trees of several sorts, marakh, heglig, sayal, sidr, arak, &c.

Wadi Taimurit

2 70¾ 6 187 Up wadi, which narrows to about 300 to 400 yards. It is joined on the left bank by a khor called Taimurit, up which there is a waterhole, good water. On the right bank opposite it is a hill conspicuously higher than the majority of those that overhang the wadi.

On both banks are remains of houses, and a quartz reef is conspicuous on the left bank. The latitude of junction of Taimurit and Alagi is 22° 1′ 11″, so most, if not all, the reef is north of 22°. It shows marks of having been prospected.

Wadi Neshd

1 71¾ 3 190 One hour further on, where the wadi changes the direction of its flow from S.W. to N.W., some tombs close under the right bank are a landmark for the Wadi Neshd, which comes in on the left bank opposite. There is good water in the Wadi Neshd.

Wadi Kamotit

2 73¾ 6 196 The wadi now begins to wind more. Two hours further on the Wadi Kamotit on right bank is passed. There is good water a short way up it.

Deraheib 4¼ 78 12 208 The wadi now begins to wriggle about without, however, much decreasing in width. The hills on either side continue to be of no great height, and in one or two places the track crosses low saddles to cut off corners; good trees all the way.

Water

— — — — At Deraheib is a ruined castle of stone set in mud, with two or three pointed arches set in lime. Another building of nearly equal size in plan, but not so high, and the ruins of a number of houses and shelters are on the left bank. On the right bank, nearly opposite, are a number of ruined stone houses arranged in streets, and covering 3 to 4 acres. They are built in stone and mud, but a few arches in lime are to be seen. The ruins are evidently greatly filled in and might possibly repay excavation. There are small stone shelters of the same kind up various khors. The nearest water now is 2 or 3 miles off up a wadi that joins the left bank of the Alagi about 1½ miles further up.

The latitude of the N.W. corner of the ruined castle is 21° 56′ 48·5″.

On the low hills on left bank, within ½ mile of the fort, are a number of shafts sunk in the reef which is here very apparent. In December there were very few Arabs in the Wadi Alagi. In the summer there are many.

The rate of the hamla has been taken at 2½ to 3 miles per hour, as, I think, my camels went. Neither times nor distances, therefore, can be relied on absolutely.

2. — СУАКИН до БЕРБЕРА.

Дороги. Между Суакином и Бербером существуют два основных маршрута, оба соединяются в Обаке. Первый, через Тамбук — Диссибил — Кокреб — Ариаб и Обак, наиболее северный из двух, является обычным караванным путем. Майор Праут (1877 г.) заявляет, что «этот маршрут вполне пригоден для повозок, большая его часть, по сути, является превосходной дорогой для колесного транспорта; однако возникнут некоторые трудности при перегоне повозок через перевалы Харейтри и Кокреб, а также через дюны Обака. В этих трех точках потребуется выполнить некоторые работы, не очень значительные, но довольно дорогостоящие, чтобы сделать маршрут хорошей дорогой для повозок». Главная трудность заключается в засушливом участке протяженностью 114 миль между Ариабом и Бербером, для которого Обак, расположенный примерно на полпути, является единственным источником воды.

Второй маршрут через Синкат — Хормареб — Амет — Ровайю и Обак на 5 или 6 миль короче, но менее известен. Он изредка используется караванами, но, хотя водоснабжение хорошее, дорога в районе Синката плохая.

(α) СЕВЕРНЫЙ МАРШРУТ.

Майор У. С. Спаркс, октябрь 1897 г., декабрь и январь 1897–98 гг.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Suakin — — Road runs in north-westerly direction alongside formation level of old Suakin-Berber railway. Good road, and easy going through scrub, with mimosa and acacia trees. Plain covered with camels and flocks of goats grazing. Gentle rise all way to Handub.

Handub Well

10 10 Water here practically unlimited, slightly brackish; good camp ground, fuel, and grazing for camels. Water about 20 feet down.

3 13 Track enters hills, which gradually close in on either side, going still good and gentle rise.

Otao Well

6 19 Two wells here, giving good water, holes in ground, could be easily developed, at present sufficient for two companies infantry and their transport. Formation level of old railway ends here.

Tambuk Well

5 24 Good water, supply practically unlimited, now three wells, would be easily increased. Good camp ground, fuel and grazing. Gazelle, hares, partridges, and doves along road, Handub and Tambuk. Water in wells about 15 feet down.

2 26 To here going stony and rough, then through a short defile, and somewhat better; trees and shrubs all along.

Khor Ossaud 5 31 A sudden, short, sharp ascent, a ½-mile level, stony ground, without a shrub, and down to Khor Ossaud broad khor, full of trees, &c.; excellent going.

Olip 1 32

Khor Adit 1 33 Khor Adit, the main khor from Sinkat, which is about 20 miles distant, meets Khor Ossaud. Some gazelles, many doves in this khor, also numerous herds, goats and camels grazing. Junction of khor, called Olip.

3 36 Track bends suddenly to right, and crosses a short and easy “agaba,” or pass. This is a short cut, main khor could be followed, and pass avoided, if necessary. This would make good halting place for infantry. It is 15 miles from Tambuk; plenty fuel and grazing. No water, but probably could be found if sunk for.

Dissibil (well)

7 43 One large well, which is merely hole scooped in ground, gives plentiful supply good water; similar water holes could be dug without difficulty, and supply water practically unlimited; good camp ground, fuel, and grazing.

Dissibil khor full of trees and shrubs; many gazelle and rock grouse and doves.

4 47 Track crosses small pass or agaba, thence runs under high mountains on left hand, called Jebel Tamei. Chain of low stone hills on right, going fair all time.

Odrus 7 54 Track debouches on wide open plain, perhaps 15 miles by 10, called Wadi Odrus; is covered with coarse grass and stunted mimosa. Gradual rise up to here, now gentle descent to centre of Wadi Odrus, where a narrow khor known as Tekarti. In good rain season considerable quantity of dura is grown along edge of this khor, but on Dissibil side and to eastwards only. Several well-grown trees along edge of khor. This is 15 miles from Dissibil, and would make suitable halting place for infantry. No water, except after rains; good camp ground, fuel, and grazing. A gradual rise from here.

Tekarti 6 60

3¼ 63¼ On right of track, under low hill, several stone huts of Hamdab tribe.

2 65¼ Wadi Odrus ends and track crosses outlying stony ridges of Amud range.

2 67¼ A sharp gradient and highest point of whole route is reached 2,870 feet above sea level. A sharp descent by about ¾ mile of rocky agaba or pass, which, however, presents but little difficulty to passage of all arms, leads to Khor Hareitri, a rather narrow defile between high stone hills. Stony, baddish going, full of sunt or mimosa trees, and patches of coarse grass. Three-quarters mile up khor is well, known as Bir Tamai by some, by others as simply Hareitri, a stone revetted well, giving good water about 12 feet down, rough wood huts on other side of well.

Khor Hareitri (well) (Tamai) ¾ 68

¾ 68¾

Adel Aweb[3]

3¼ 72 Rain pools found all along edges of khor, and 3 miles from Tamai a very large deep pool, giving any quantity good water. Natives say pools all disappear in winter a few months after rain ceases, but wells could be sunk with success anywhere in khor. The big pool above called by natives Adel Aweb. Good grazing and fuel here, indifferent camp ground on account of stones. Rock grouse and doves in khor, which is about 5 miles long.

1 73 Hareitri defile ends, and wide open plain called Wadi Tisartem is reached. Here dura is cultivated.

1½ 74½ A few huts on right, and some dura grown in good rain season, a good camp ground near here, fuel and grazing, but no water, though not impossible, might be found.

4 78½ Track crosses low rough ridges for ½ mile.

Salalat (well)

½ 79 Khor Haab thick with fair-sized trees, a sandy plain. Two and a-half miles off track, to left or south, is Bir Salalat, two wells, partially revetted wood, water good, about 40 feet down. Supply limited, each well could, perhaps, supply 600 gallons, and would then require three hours to refill, more wells could easily be sunk. Good camp ground, fuel and grazing, and some fair-sized trees near wells. These wells cannot be relied on as permanent. In 1903 they had been dry for 2 years.

3½ 82½ A slight rise brings track to level plateau of gravelly trap, smooth and firm, no vegetation, leading down to Khor Furd.

2½ 85 A very large patch cultivation dependent on rainfall, nothing could be grown this year.

5½ 90½ Across a neck, high irregular-shaped rocky hill few hundred yards to right, large black boulder to left. Quarter mile further is level, open, gravelly piece of ground, suitable for camp, with fuel and grazing, but no water. From here vegetation gradually ceases.

2 92½ Cross neck of Iglaladat, outlying ridge with high mass of rock on left. From here hills close in and track along base of outlying spurs and ridges.

Khor Kokreb 3½ 96 Agaba or pass leading to Khor Kokreb begins, a descent, a slight rise, then a steep and rocky, but not difficult, piece, in all about ½ mile, and khor is entered; ½ mile on and well called Hayaba, a hole in ground, water a few feet down and good, only one hole at present, but others could be dug in very short time, giving a practically unlimited supply. Rough wooden hut and Arab grave, and on left of well good camp ground, water, fuel, and grazing.

Hayaba (well)

1 97

Sarbit (well)

1½ 98½ Revetted stone well, good water about 10 feet down, sufficient for battalion, good ground, fuel, and grazing.

4 102½ Track, now well to right of khor, runs over a neck between small rocky hills for short way, then sand, then rocks, with graveyards on each side; ½ mile on and low rocky chain hides main khor from track, hills gradually close in.

1½ 104 Hills now come in from north at right angles to track, and appear to entirely block up khor; under these hills was situated the Dervish post of Osman Digna. A collection of tukuls, sufficient for about 200 men, and surrounded by a thick thorn zariba; clear, level space, some 700 yards to front and flanks, within 200 yards of hills at back; a well enough chosen position as regards covering road from Suakin. A narrow and short defile on extreme left affords an exit, and khor again widens somewhat.

El Matar (well)

1½ 105½ A hole scooped in ground, good water a few feet down, enough for half battalion at present, but could be quickly increased by digging other holes. Camp ground, grazing, and fuel here. Track now bends to left and crosses neck between two old graveyards.

Abd El Haabit (well)

1½ 107 Two wells here, about ½ mile apart, one on track, other ½ mile to left. The one on track a hole in khor, good water, limited supply, enough for about 100 camels, before refilling in two hours. Other revetted stone, now dry, but could easily be reopened.

All these four last wells in Khor Kokreb, which is wide, full of trees and shrubs, with stony hills here and there, many gazelle, doves and rock grouse. Track follows khor in all about 10 miles, when it branches to right.

Track now enters wide open plain of black stone, but good going, bare but for few stunted mimosa, and coarse patches of grass.

5 112 Stone ceases, and firm sand takes its place.

2½ 114½ Track bends to right among patches of huge boulders.

Directly after entering Agortitweb Plain, a black hill, surmounted by what appears to be two tower-like masses of rock, makes an excellent landmark, as tracks leads straight on to it.

Lagag Aweb[4] (called by natives half way to Berber) 1½ 116 Above-mentioned landmark is passed, it lies to left of road, and on close inspection becomes a smooth, oval base of rock, with irregular mass at approach end, while other block dissolves into two huge boulders, one with a considerable lean to east. Pass between this, which is called Lagag Aweb, on left, and a smaller rocky hill on right, is considered by natives as half way to Berber.

Wadi Yungul or K. Yomga 2½ 118½ Track now winds for 2 miles round base of low stony hills, crosses a neck, then on left a strip of coarse grass and stunted mimosa, bearing away to left, while hills on left also spread away. For some way further, track winds along base of hills on right, when they also spread away, and the stony plain called Wadi Yungul is reached, going good. Good camp grounds, but indifferent grazing, and no water or fuel in Wadi Yungul. Yungul Plain ceases, track winds to right between low stony hills. A little over 1 mile and narrow khor, with few trees and coarse grass, is crossed, then again winds through low hills. Two connected hillocks of white marble being a prominent feature immediately to left of track.

6½ 125

3 128 The Ariab valley is entered, it is thick with scrub and fair-sized trees, with numerous herds, goats, &c. The hills stretch away on either side. Natives report there is a well called Makardi off track to left under the hills, but that it gives but little water.

Ariab[5] (well)

3 131 Three miles up valley are Ariab wells. One large stone-revetted in centre of khor, giving practically unlimited supply, excellent water. Water about 20 feet down. 150 yards from this well are two others, also revetted, stone one gives plentiful supply, other partially choked for want of use. Good camp ground, grazing, water and fuel. Many of gazelle, doves, and rock grouse in valley. Track now leaves Khor Ariab on right, and goes south-west through black stone hills, low on right, high on left, somewhat bad going.

Level plain, covered tufts coarse grass, half stony, half sandy, good going.

Through low hills, rather bad going.

Wadi Barud — — Wide level plain, covered coarse grass, good going.

Wadi O’Duruk — — Level plain, good going, some coarse scrub, stunted trees.

Track leaves O’Duruk on right and passes to left of, and immediately below, a high stone hill, across a small khor, and then winds among low stone hills.

Wadi Temartua — — Good going, partly firm sand, partly stony.

Khor Laiameb 44 175 A broad khor running about east and west, almost at right angles to track. Said to contain pools after rain, about 4 miles to west of track. Small mimosa trees and coarse grass; water might be found if sunk for. Track after crossing Khor Laiameb again goes over hilly stony ground.

Jebel O’Fik 2½ 177½ On right of track country open and level again, a few trees and some grass here.

Wadi Tatua — — After passing Jebel O’Fik the Wadi Tatua is entered; sandhills, &c., in khor; Obak can be seen in distance; good going.

5½ 183 Across a low ridge, going still good.

Plain becomes covered with small mimosa bushes; 1½ miles through these bushes and Obak sandhills and drifts are entered.

Obak (well)

9 192 Large new well, gives 2,000 gallons when full; takes 10 hours to refill. Water slightly brackish. Natives say that there were formerly 50 or 60 of these wells, but have fallen in from want of use. Wells, revetted wood; water about 40 feet down. Indifferent camp ground, some grazing and fuel.

For 3 miles after Obak track lies through heavy sand over hills and drifts, then good level going, only occasional sand.

14 206 Some trees and grass here; suitable camp ground; water might possibly be found. Site of proposed well.

Jebel Eremit 2 208 A low granite hill on left of track.

Abu Odfa 5 213 Curious-shaped mass of rock on right of track.

Wadi Abu Selim 21 234 Some trees and grass; water could probably be found. Site of proposed well.

Maho Bey (well)

11 245 Good revetted well, 40 feet down, covered by mud brick fort; excellent water, practically unlimited supply, good camping ground, fuel and grazing.

Berber 6 251 Except for first 3 miles all going from Obak to Berber excellent.

СВОДКА КОЛОДЦЕВ НА СЕВЕРНОМ МАРШРУТЕ.

Name of well. Distance apart. Description.

Miles.

Handub 10[6] Slightly brackish, unlimited supply.

Otao 9 One well, hole in khor; good water could be developed.

Tambuk 5 Good water about 15 feet down, unlimited supply.

Dissibil 19 One well, good water hole in khor, at present (1898) sufficient half battalion and transport; could be increased at will.

Tamai 25 In Khor Hareitri; well also by some called Hareitri. Stone, revetted, about 12 feet deep, good water; well itself sufficient for half battalion and transport, but supply easily increased. Rain pools all along Khor Hareitri; one very large and deep called Adelaweb, 3 miles from Tamai.

Salalat 11 One and a-half miles to left of road, two wells, revetted stone, one practically choked. Good water about 40 feet down, limited supply, enough for 50 camels, and takes 2 hours to refill.

Hayaba 18 Hole in sand, 4 feet deep, met immediately on entering Khor Kokreb; good water, supply practically unlimited, as similar holes can be dug in very short time.

Sarbit 1½ In Khor Kokreb, good water about 10 feet down, revetted stone.

Matar 7 Hole in khor, still Kokreb, good water, supply half battalion, but could be developed. Former watering place of Dervish Kokreb post 1½ miles off.

Id El Haabit 1½ Hole in khor, good water, sufficient half battalion, could be developed.

Ariab 24 One very large well, revetted stone, good water about 20 feet down; two smaller, also revetted stone, one now choked. Water sufficient at present for one battalion and transport, and could be developed.

Obak 61 One large stone revetted well, giving excellent supply of good water.

Maho Bey 52 Large stone revetted well, good water, large supply.

(β) — БЕРБЕР до СУАКИНА (ЮЖНЫЙ МАРШРУТ).

Расстояние оценивается по шагу верблюдов, и, по-видимому, существует небольшая разница между северным и южным маршрутами; однако арабы называют южную дорогу более длинной.

Водоснабжение вполне соответствует северной дороге, и все колодцы, будучи более или менее глубокими, не загрязняются животными, пьющими непосредственно из них, как это бывает с поверхностными колодцами, такими как Диссибил, Хайаба и т. д. Эти колодцы также гораздо чаще используются арабами для водопоя своих стад, чем колодцы на другом пути, и все они без исключения окружены дируками, или земляными поилками, которые редко встречаются на другой дороге.

У каждого колодца потребуется длинная веревка и делук, или местное подобие ведра из тонкой шкуры.

Для передвижения войск северная дорога предпочтительнее, так как она сравнительно легка для всех родов войск на всем протяжении. На южной дороге многочисленные агабы, или перевалы через холмы, делают движение тяжелым и трудным. Большой агаб между Синкатом и Таманебом практически непроходим для колесной артиллерии.

(β) ЮЖНЫЙ МАРШРУТ через ОБАК, РАУАИ, ХОР-АРАБ и СИНКАТ. Майор У. С. Спаркс, ноябрь 1897 г.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Berber — —

Maho Bey

6 6 Vide report on north road.

Khor Abu Selim 11 17 „ „

Abu Odfa 21 38 „ „

Eramit 5 43 „ „

Obak Wells

16 59 „ „

Ofik 14 73 „ „

4½ 77½ Track to Rauai branches away to right. Also a track to Rauai a few miles after leaving Obak.

1½ 79 Through low stony hills and Khor Laiameb is struck; track runs straight along khor. Going good; a gradual rise; Khor Wusser runs side by side with Laiameb, and appears to form part of it.

17 96 Track leaves Khor Laiameb and crosses low neck of rock; low black stone hills on right hand; scattered boulders, some of similar shape to Abu Odfa on left hand. Hills gradually close in, and track crosses stony but not difficult agaba, or pass, some ¾ mile long.

¾ 96¾ A path to left leads over hills to Ariab.

1¾ 98½ Over stony khor, then into hills again, and is stony, steep, bad going.

Rauai Wells

2 100½ Stony sort of square, surrounded By stone hills, with a narrow khor running out each corner. Large graveyard on right. A few mimosa trees and some coarse grass. Indifferent camping ground. Wells ½ mile up a narrow, rocky defile, running from east corner of square; two wells, revetted stone, good water 15 feet down; practically unlimited supply. This defile impassable for animals, which must go by easier way over hills to south-west, and then down side of hill again to the wells. Some rough drawings of camels, men, &c., scratched on rocks round wells. Rock grouse and partridges here. Track now runs north-west over short agaba, across a stony khor, and again an agaba winding over bare, stony hills; bad going; then a long, narrow, sandy khor; fair-going; then a rough, stony agaba leading over hills called Hadia Aweb or blackwater rock; thence into Khor Thela, a short agaba, and Bir Makadia, in small khor same name, at head of Ariab valley; Ariab wells, about 6 miles west of north from here; one well good water 30 feet down, enough for one battalion, which would require 1½ hours to refill; good grazing ground and fuel. Some gazelle and grouse; north road about 3 miles from well. Going from Rauai bad, nearly whole way a succession of stony agabas. Prom here cross stony neck, then across head of Ariab valley. Pass Jebel Bokmaali on left hand, cross a stony neck, and

Makadia Wells

14½ 115

Yungul 4 119 Reach Wadi Yungul; north road about 8 miles to left; 4 miles, then cross another stony neck, and Wadi Beakwa, called by Arabs halfway to Suakin.

Khor Atbai 7½ 126½ Cross Khor Atbai; 3 miles on cross old dura patch, none this year on account of bad rains. Over two sandy and stony ridges and

Wadi Kokreb 3½ 130 Enter Kokreb valley; good going, firm sand, and thick with trees and shrubs. Over some stony ridges and

Khor Olowe 2½ 132½ Enter Khor Olowe, still a part of Kokreb.

Magwala Wells

3½ 136 Two wells, good water, 75 feet down, sufficient for one battalion; would require some hours to refill; these wells are said by Arabs to be oldest on road; they are revetted granite, which is deeply grooved all round from constant hauling up of water. Are much used by Shebodinab tribe, who have huts close here. Many hods, or earth-made drinking pans, round each well. Some old Dervish “tukuls,” which used to be occupied by a detachment, for collecting taxes. Good camp ground, fuel and grazing, pigeons and sand grouse; no gazelle. Wells of Abd El Haabit lie some 7 or 8 miles to north, and Jebel Wowitte, about 8 miles to north-east; Jebel Lagagaweb, the halfway rock on north road, is seen some 6 miles to north of west from here.

Khor now gradually gets bare and intersected by strips of stone.

4 140 Cross a ridge and Khor Lasheb, going indifferent, cut up by small watercourses over a ridge.

Wadi Habub

3 143 Wadi Habub. Going still indifferent, across many ridges running into khor, 5½ miles on; track runs along edge of hills, and then enters the Komotitai hills by very stony and difficult agaba or pass, about 1½ miles long, then into sandy khor, full of vegetation of sorts. 2 miles up this khor to the

Kamotitai Wells

11 154 Wells of same name, i.e., Kamotitai, three wells, revetted stone, good water 25 feet down unlimited supply. Many other wells in this khor now closed up; much used by Arabs, and at each well numerous hods. Good camp ground, fuel, and grazing; sand grouse and pigeons in abundance.

A short way past wells, track bends to left past large graveyard; then across alternate khors and ridges; indifferent going.

Khor Arab 7 161 Thick with trees of all sorts, and considerable cultivation in good season. Two deep watercourses crossed soon after entering khor; 3 miles on the track runs to north of khor, over stony ridges, with low stone hills on either hand.

Jebel Okwer 7 168 Jebel Okwer begins on left of khor, several small pyramid-shaped hills on right, and khor stretching away beyond them.

Khor Amate Wells

3½ 171½ Over a low ridge, and Wadi Amate begins; track running across large patch of old cultivation into a sandy khor; one well some 200 yards to right, another ½ mile straight on. There is a third well, now closed. These wells, revetted wood, good water 12 feet down; supply practically unlimited; many hods. Good camp ground, fuel and grazing. A stone hut close to well, and place thick with sheep and goats, and some cattle.

Track from here runs north-west, over small agaba into narrow khor thick with trees. Okwer range still on left; low hills on right 3½ miles, and hills on right hand, and track again enters main Khor Amate. Batta range on far right and in front; ½ mile on Okwer range ends.

4½ 176 Track to wells of Abu Goloda runs north from here.

3½ 179½ End of Khor Amate, and Batta range entered by fairly easy agaba, running east 1½ miles; then cross small stony khor, then another agaba through smaller hills, going bad.

Hormareb Well

3½ 183 Jebel Homugwer away in distance to right, ¾ mile off track to north in small khor same name, Bir Hormareb; one well, good water 25 feet down; supply about 1,000 gallons; requires some hours to refill. Several hods round well; good grazing and fuel, indifferent ground. Another well reported, same description, 3 or 4 miles further up khor to north. From here bad going, over stony ridges and small khors.

Wadi Ma’areit 3½ 186½ Large graveyard on right, and track turns sharp to left up Wadi Ma’areit, a broad level valley, running north and south; good going, and considerable cultivation after good rains. This year a few patches dura. North-west corner of valley thickly studded with trees, and was in old days a favourite summer resort of people from Suakin.

6½ 193 Hills close right in on either side, and the narrow wooded Khor Ashaf leads through hills 2 miles; track bends north-east, 1½ miles on, and cross a flat khor, with sparse vegetation, thick with flocks.

Now over alternate rough ridges and small ragged khors. 2½ miles down a sharp agaba into a small khor, green and sweet smelling, then wind round base of hills miles, and enter Khor Tabikuk.

Khor Tabikuk 7½ 200½ Across this khor, 3½ miles, top a ridge, and view Sinkat valley, green and thick with people and flocks; down small agaba, over low ridge, and enter valley.

Sinkat Well

4½ 205 One large well, good water 25 feet down; unlimited supply. Several large gemmeiza trees round wells give excellent shade; ruins old Egyptian fort also close to wells. Large village in valley, with several thousand people, built partly straw huts, partly Arab tents, small bazaar, and large stores of gum.

Good ground, fuel and grazing. Khor Adit leads from north Sinkat valley towards Khor Ossaud.

Track from well runs east across valley, then over low ridge across two deep watercourses, and up a stony, gradually-narrowing khor, which winds through the hills.

Khor Gebet

6½ 211½ A short but bad agaba, a small khor, a ridge, another small khor, another ridge and Khor Gebet; about 3 miles up this khor to right are two wells.

3 214½ Commencement of the great Sinkat Agaba or Pass, along which track runs for 3½ miles; very bad, difficult going, practically impassable for wheeled artillery, and would be altogether impracticable but for the work done years ago by Mumtaz Pasha, then Governor of Suakin. In this agaba the Khor Gwob rises, which, gradually widening, eventually reaches the sea some 7 miles south of Suakin.

Khor Gwob

3½ 218 End of agaba, and good going over firm sand; gradual descent down khor, which gradually widens. Hills on either side, thick with tamarisk, and cactus, &c. Huge boulders on each side also protruding from bed of khor. Pools of water, with thick reeds here and there, in which were many teal; also many partridges, rock grouse, and pigeons in khor.

Tamanib

6 224 Unlimited supply, good running water; fair camp ground; excellent grazing; plenty fuel. Many cattle grazing here.

Road now leaves Khor Gwob and turns to right; runs over low ridges, with small khors between; full of gazelle, ariel and hares.

10 234 Hills cease, and a straight down-hill run into Suakin, over plain covered with coarse vegetation.

Suakin 10 244 Suakin.

3. — БЕРБЕР до КАССАЛЫ.

Составлено в разведывательном отделе в Хартуме на основе различных эскизов и отчетов, июнь 1902 г.

Этот маршрут очень трудно нанести на карту или описать так, чтобы он был полезен путешественнику, поскольку вдоль него едва ли наберется полдюжины приметных объектов, по которым можно было бы определить свое местоположение.

По мере высыхания Атбары вдоль ее русла остается ряд заводей. Там, где берега позволяют животным подходить к этим заводям, арабы пригоняют стада на водопой, а к этим мешрам протаптываются или прорубаются тропы через кустарник.

Проводники. Обычный арабский проводник, даже если он привык годами ездить по этой дороге, знает лишь небольшое число этих мешр, т. е. тех, что наиболее удобно расположены для того типа путешествий, которые он обычно совершает, и лишь одну или две из бесчисленных троп. Единственные люди, которые знают все небольшие мешры в стороне от дороги, и то, возможно, лишь на ограниченном участке реки, — это арабы (хадендоа), которые пасут там свои стада. Поэтому, если путешественник, из-за того что он идет с войсками или по какой-либо другой причине, желает воспользоваться менее известными мешрами, он должен полагаться на местные справки и поэтому должен иметь при себе людей, говорящих на языке хадендоа.

Еще одна большая трудность заключается в сравнительно небольшом количестве людей, знающих названия каких-либо мешр, кроме главных. В результате обычный проводник распространяет известные ему названия на всю длину реки. Где заканчивается одна, начинается другая. Арабы, пасущие свои стада у Атбары, напротив, дадут вам названия для каждого небольшого участка реки, но эти названия малоценны, так как никто другой их не знает.

Дома для отдыха. Между Бербером и Кассалой через каждые 20 миль есть дома для отдыха.

Выпас. Практически на всем пути есть хороший выпас для верблюдов.

Путешественники. Лицам, путешествующим в одиночку в жаркую погоду, может быть лучше выступать очень рано утром, останавливаться у воды и снова выступать ближе к закату, имея при себе достаточно воды для ночевки вдали от реки.

Снабжение. Вдоль дороги нельзя получить никаких припасов, кроме, возможно, молока и овец.

Дичь. В Атбаре хорошая рыбалка. Вдоль маршрута в зависимости от сезона встречаются газели, дрофы и антилопы-ариэль. К северу от Гоз-Регеба много диких ослов.

Жители. Встречаются некоторые бишарины и довольно много кочевников-хадендоа.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Berber — — From Berber the road runs between the river and the railway.

Darmali 13 13 A mud built village on the Nile; the usual road now branches southwards, crosses the railway and than a bare, gravelly, waterless plain to Khor El Hudi. (If preferred, the Atbara can be followed by continuing along the Nile to Atbara Station, which is about 7 miles from Darmali.)

Khor El Hudi 17 30

Khor Abadar or Abu Adar 8 38 From El Hudi, where the remains of the Anglo-Egyptian zeriba are still visible, the road skirts the river which is fringed with dom palms and other bush to Khor Abadar, near the junction of which there is a small stone wall enclosure and the remains of another Anglo-Egyptian zeriba.

Khor El Hilg (Rest House) 19 57 From here the road cuts off an angle from the river and lies across open gravelly desert till Khor El Hilg is reached.

(Nakheila, the site of Mahmud’s zeriba and the battle of the Atbara, is passed at the 12th mile, about 5 miles to the west.) There is dense bush about here, and the ground is likely to be swampy in the rains.

Sheikh El Sebib’s House (Rest House). 3½ 60½ The house stands on slightly rising ground. After passing this the country continues to be broken by small khors until after passing Gemmeiza, a good halting place, but much bush hereabouts.

Gemmeiza (Rest House) 12 72½

The country soon becomes open and level, and is covered with scattered selem and sunt bushes. The river is generally nowhere more than a mile and half to the west.

El Hagar 14½ 87 Here there are rocks in the river bed.

Khor El Fil 1 88 The going continues excellent until reaching Khor Adarama which is about 1½ miles in width and is marked by very thick scrub of sunt, talh, and tundub, as well as by the badly cracked cotton soil indicative of standing water.

Khor Adarama 8 96

Adarama (Rest House) 1½ 97½ Adarama consists of a large number of mud walled enclosures, scattered over about ¾ of a square mile of ground. These are almost entirely deserted and mostly ruined. With the exception of the inspector’s house, camel corps lines, and a few tukls, there are practically no inhabited houses. In the dry weather there are two water pools in the vicinity, one at the foot of Khor Adarama, and another about ¾ mile higher up. The approach to the river is easy, but the bank shelves steeply to the river bed from a height of about 25 feet.