«Англо-Египетский Судан: Справочник. Том I»

Sahaba 5 296 Rocky ridge widens out; good camping ground; gradually coming under cultivation.

Akri 4 300 Stone village.

Teit, Taetti 1 301

483 A stone village over a mile in length, situated a ¼ of a mile from the river. Between it and the river is a narrow strip of cultivation. The best camping ground is to the south of the village.

Saati Beshir 3 304 Domed tomb. Hills within 500 yards of river.

Urbi 5 309 A large village built where the hills leave the river, leaving a good open space for camping Island of same name opposite village very highly cultivated.

Sori 4 313 A long scattered village on the river bank. A strip of cultivation runs along the river; there is, however, a break in it just north of the large tomb. This is a suitable place for a camp.

Sali 4 317 The hills, which had widened out opposite Sori, here come nearly down to the river, leaving room for a shallow camp. A small scattered village with strip of cultivation. The road from Urbi to this place runs over a sandy plain with scattered mimosa

Malwad opposite south end of Sali.

Khandak (Rest house) 3 320 Headquarters of District, and residence of Mamur. Built on a stony mound overlooking the river. Eight and a half hours’ steaming from Dongola (October). The town could be easily defended against a force coming down river or across the desert from the west. Broken mud wall on west and north sides. Old sun-dried brick fort in middle of town on the bank; good storage, accommodation for 200 men (British); commands town and approaches. Also 4 well-built brick houses in the town, capable of housing 300 men. Town of mud huts clean and well built. Market day on Saturday. Four hundred and forty sagias in the district, each representing 4 families. Much wood in the district. Road west into desert to Marghum, etc. Remains of many churches

Shebatut, or Shabadud 1 321 About 20 houses, 400 yards from river, at foot of low hills. Cultivation on banks 200 yards wide. Good space between cultivation and village. Best camping ground at south end of village. This spot was extensively used as a camping ground during the Nile Expedition. Light Camel Regiment here, Spring of 1885

Dambo 2 323 Fifteen houses ½ mile from the river; no cultivation. Good camping ground east of village; mimosa scrub. Banks shelving; compact village, 40 houses; good landing; numerous palms and acacias

Goled Bahri and Gibli 6

2 329

331 Three groups of huts extending over 1 mile, ¾ mile from river. Situated in broad alluvial plain, running down to river. Monday market; mass of cultivation; 2¾ hours’ steam from Khandak; considerable supply of wood, the mimosa trees growing to a great height. On leaving El Goled, the road runs at some distance from the river across a rich alluvial plain (cultivated) Komi Island (cultivated) East bank gradually becomes more inhabited and cultivated.

Wad Abbas 3 334

Nani Island Desert road leads east from Wad Abbas to near Merowe. (76 miles.)

Rumi 2 336 Villages Bahri and Gibli Rumi Island 2 miles on Stone ruins 2 miles inland to north-east.

Bakri 4 340 On nearing this place the ground becomes more sandy and covered with mimosa scrub. It extends for over 1 mile, amidst palms and cultivation. All supplies plentiful. Good camping ground to south. Saturday market.

El Khelaiun, or Kheleiwa 4 344 From Bakri to this spot (which consists only of a poor hut or two) the river banks have been lined with coarse grass, outside of which is a strip of sand dunes and mimosa, with the road outside this. Cultivation here takes the place of the grass. Sand dunes still continue. Site of old Christian church. Stones with Greek inscriptions found

Commencement of highly cultivated Latti district, 3 to 4 miles broad, with numerous villages, e.g., Amentogo, Arab Hag, Kodokol, and Megabda. Quantities of date palms and wood.

Kankalab 1 345 Village of 30 tukls, on a high bank overlooking a broad strip of cultivation, which intervenes between it and the river. Good camping ground 1 mile south River shallow. Former site of Ghaddar Island District narrows down as hills approach river from north-east to Ghaddar, etc.

Old Dongola, locally pronounced “Tóngălo” 6 351

564 Dongola Gharbi. Well cultivated, many trees; shelving banks and good landing. A long, scattered village, separated from the river by a broad strip of cultivation. Between the village and the desert is a tract covered with mimosa and “dead sea fruit.” Fairly well wooded. Wednesday market Baja Island Old Dongola, on the right bank, is a deserted town of ruined mud houses, containing not more than 30 able-bodied men. The people live in the island of Hamur, a little higher up stream, and in the cultivated districts on the west bank; much wood in surrounding country; 422 sagias. It is built on a rocky height, overlooking the river and the desert to the east. It is capable of easy defence, and might be held by a very small force. In rear of the town are the ruins of a once strong fort. Severe sand storms are frequent. There is one mosque built over an old Christian church commanding the river, village, and surrounding country. Cliffs, old sandstone, 30-70 feet high.

El Ghaba 4 355 A small village with a clump of trees. There is a break in the cultivation here, and space on the river for good camping ground. Markets Tuesdays and Fridays Tangussi Island, very fertile; 8 miles long. Narrow east channel Fertile stretch opposite Tangussi.

Abu Gussi 1 356 Was an important village, with road striking south-west to Omdurman and El Fasher. British Garrison, 1885. Now deserted; river eating away banks and cultivation Good landing west bank. On leaving Abu Gussi, the river changes its course to nearly east and west. The left bank to Debba is highly cultivated, and a little vegetation is visible on the right bank.

Giref 4 360 The country between Abu Gussi and Debba is hard, sandy going, with low hills on the right hand, and broad patches of cultivation on the left. A desert road to Mahtul, 40 miles, here leaves the river.

Karad or Kurot 9 369 Just north of Debba; 45 sagias; steep banks. Good landing for all boats. General Brackenbury’s brigade was quartered here during the spring of 1885 Argi Island Argi district, cultivated.

Debba (Rest house) 2 371

596 Consists of old field works of 430 yards perimeter, enclosing a few huts. Was garrisoned in 1884 by 250 Bashi Buzuks. Headquarters of the District, and residence of Mamur. Wheat, barley, dura and wood procurable from neighbouring cultivated districts. A direct road to Omdurman starts from here viâ Abu Gerad. The position is excellent, the fort being surrounded on the south by an open sandy plain, covered by slight bush, and abutting on the river on the north, where there is a good landing place, steamers and heavily laden boats being able to come close alongside. Cultivation along the banks of the river recommences about a mile distant, east and west of the fort. The Wadi Melh, a dry shallow valley, debouches on to the plain, where its course is lost in the sand. By following up the course of this valley, the old and now little used Kordofan caravan road is joined, leading to Bir Mahtul and El Obeid. A commercial centre (formerly) for ivory and gum from, and for European merchandise for Kordofan and Darfur. Geological formation, Nubian sandstone, acted on by heat, and metamorphosed on the surface. Petrified wood is found in great quantities River here 750 yards wide; course south-east and north-west. Various cultivated islands such as Gira (373), Tambanarti (382), Ganeti (391, keep to north bank), Jigarnarti (397), and Husseinarti (404), dot the river hereabouts Right bank bare as a rule, with cultivated patches at intervals. Ruined castle at Abkor (380).

Abu Dom 16 387

623 The road passes over sand and some slight sandhills while passing Abu Dom. An important village of about 300 men; the houses are scattered along the edge of the sand; there are 30 water-wheels and a few palms. Cultivation: dura, wheat, Indian corn. Market on Wednesdays. The most southerly point on the river before reaching Berber. A more northerly course is then taken. The left bank continues most rich in cultivation; wood abounds. Next districts in order: Abu Kleiwat, Jura (with ruins of Coptic church, road makes short cut to east), Artimoga, Fakrin Koti, Mansur Koti River channel now curves, and runs south-west and north-east. Easy navigation to foot of 4th Cataract. East bank becomes more cultivated. Districts of Affat, Abseit, Nizezi, Neriko and Difar. Rest house at Affat.

Hetani or Tani 16 403 Rocky Hill Jebel Taraka 1 mile to south; outlying spurs from J. El Nob 5 miles to south. Old castle (Galat Hatani) 1 mile on, in ruins, with rock well. Narrow road, camels single file, was held by Emir Heddai against Mudir of Dongola, in 1884

— 6 409 Camp of General Dormer’s Brigade, 1885. Bush gets thinner, road descends to—

Kori and Takar districts. Bank fairly cultivated. Districts El Bar, El Barsa, Karafab (420).

Ambugol 4 413

665 Large village, standing ½ mile back. Open country around. Branch road to Korti. Metemma road starts from here. Friday market. The river bank from here to Merowe is well wooded throughout, and the road during the whole distance runs over a sandy plain sparsely covered with mimosa scrub

El Arag, Hajeir, Magal, Bakhit, with hill and ruins (431). Low rocky hills in distance.

Gowari 2 415 A compact village of many houses. The road from Ambugol runs over an alluvial plain sparsely covered with mimosa scrub. No cultivation along the river banks, and the ground is everywhere favourable for camping. A few palms to the south of the village.

Korti[24] (Rest house) 1 416

670 Two villages: one on the river, and one 1 mile inland. Palms, mimosa, and cultivation along the river. A low sand ridge runs parallel to the river, at a distance of 1 mile from it. Sunday market. Steep banks, 15 feet high. Advanced base of Nile Expedition, 1884-5. River banks now mostly cultivated, including thick mimosa scrub in parts. Road to Jakdul and Metemma starts from here. The W. Mogaddam joins the Nile here. Headquarters of Mamuria.

Ghoreiba 3 419 Fifty well-built houses. No cultivation between here and El Basa, 3 miles on. Passing Usli (426) arrive at—

Gureir 12 431 Scattered village, extending for nearly 8 miles. River banks deeply cultivated almost its entire length. Good camping grounds are to be found on the water’s edge just before the village is entered from the south, and at its northern extremity, and at a point 6 miles from its southern end. The cultivation lies on the low ground formed by mud deposits at the salient angles of the river, the village being situated on the original bank; the water is consequently only accessible at the re-entrant angles. Saturday market.

Hannek or Korti district 1 432 Districts of Korei, Arak, and Tangassi Abu Rannat Island (436) 3 miles long Large village of mud huts. Much wood of considerable size. Then come Magashi, El Zoma, Tulbenab, and Kajabi.

Tangassi 9 441

710 A large scattered village with deep cultivation in a salient angle of the river. Tuesday market, the most important in province and well known throughout the Sudan. Police post.

El Debeiba 2 443 Small village with wide strip cultivation

Desert sandstone rock comes down to the right bank, forming cliffs 40 to 60 feet high, extending for about 2½ miles along the bank.

Abu Dom Sanam (site of ancient town of Napata) 3 446 A scattered village at the confluence of the Khor Abu Dom with the Nile. The cultivation runs a considerable distance inland along the Khor, which delivers a considerable stream during the rainy season. Surrounded by dense vegetation and trees. A road from here joins the Dugiyet-Berber road. Supplies of all kinds plentiful.

Merowe (capital) 1 447

719 Merowe. Headquarters of province and residence of the Governor. It is practically on the site of the 1896 camp of Abu Dom Sanam. The town has yet to be built. At present it only consists of about 30 houses, including offices, telegraph, etc.

Old village of Merowe. Advanced post during summer of 1885, under Commander Julian Baker, R.N.

Will be terminus of the branch line from Abu Hamed. From Affat to Merowe boats will have to be towed by tugs, as they are unable to navigate this bit of river against wind and stream.

Desert road to S.E. to Jakdul

СВОДНАЯ ТАБЛИЦА РАССТОЯНИЙ.

Intermediate. From Halfa.

Miles. Kilometres. Miles. Kilometres.

Faras Island — — 20 32

Halfa Camp 20 32 — —

Foot of 2nd Cataract 6½ 10½ 6½ 10½

Head of „ „ 6½ 10½ 13 21

Akasha 72 116 85 137

Kosha 28 45 113 182

Dalgo 78 125 191 307

Kaibar Cataract 12 19 203 325

Third (Hannek) Cataract 26 42 229 368

Dongola 51 82 280 450

Debba 91 146 371 596

Korti 45 72 416 668

Merowe 31 50 447 719

Раздел 2. — От Мероэ до Хартума

Подотдел (a). От Мероэ до Абу-Хамеда Характерной особенностью участка реки между Мероэ и Абу-Хамедом является сложность судоходства, а также сообщения по обоим берегам. Разнообразные пороги, в большинстве своем непроходимые за исключением периода высокого Нила, образуют 4-й порог, который простирается практически от Белала до Ширри на расстояние около 67 миль, в то время как посевы или запасы продовольствия здесь практически отсутствуют, за исключением небольших участков на обоих берегах. Этот порожистый участок реки был пройден на китобойных судах большей частью Речной колонны в 1885 г., а по правому берегу прошел летучий отряд генерала Хантера в 1897 г. при наступлении на Абу-Хамед. В остальном в настоящее время он обычно не используется для сообщения ввиду этих очевидных трудностей. В настоящее время Мероэ и Абу-Хамед связаны телеграфной линией.

[Читателю, который пожелает получить более подробные сведения, чем те, что приведены ниже, рекомендуется обратиться к 1-му и 2-му изданиям «N.O.» (1897 и 1898 гг.), в которых содержатся дополнительные отчеты по несколько иным маршрутам.]

Замечания о порогах шаигия (Лейтенант британского флота Пур, октябрь 1884 г.)

Преобладают северо-восточные ветры, и лодки редко могут использовать паруса, за исключением редких случаев в период высокого Нила, когда в течение нескольких дней может дуть южный ветер.

Лодки, отправляющиеся из Амбугола в Абу-Хамед, неизменно вынуждены идти на бечеве весь путь.

Лоцманы оценивают среднее время перехода наггера от Мероэ до Абу-Хамеда в 35–40 дней, однако они совершают путешествие группами примерно по 10 судов, чтобы обеспечивать собственную тягловую силу, что значительно увеличивает продолжительность перехода.

Наггеры обычно отправляются из Деббы в рейс до Абу-Хамеда за 20 дней до высокого Нила и стараются рассчитать свое прибытие в Абу-Хамед как можно скорее после начала спада воды в реке.

Пароходы должны отправляться из Мероэ в Абу-Хамед не позже чем через 10 дней после высокого Нила.

Наггеры должны отправляться из Мероэ в Абу-Хамед не позже чем через 15 дней после высокого Нила.

В селении Бела у подножия порога Герендид и в нескольких деревнях близ Мероэ имеются люди, знакомые с различными порогами, однако они кажутся более полезными в качестве проводников для указания различных фарватеров, нежели в качестве лоцманов, поскольку их знания судов или наггеров представляются весьма ограниченными.

Для прохождения порогов целесообразно брать лоцманов из числа старших речников (раис) наггеров.

Продовольственные запасы между порогом Герендид и Абу-Хамедом крайне скудны: всю растительность составляют лишь редкие разрозненные участки с финиковыми пальмами, пшеницей и дурой.

Между различными порогами берега выглядят скалистыми и малопригодными для проводки судов на бечеве. Течение быстрое, с частыми крутыми изгибами, а русло усеяно скалами и небольшими островами.

Путаница может возникнуть из-за привычки лоцманов и местных жителей продолжать использовать термины «восток» и «запад» по отношению к берегам реки после того, как река поворачивает на север у Амбугола: правый берег неизменно называется восточным и наоборот, без учета реального направления течения. Так, между Амбуголом и Абу-Хамедом ветер, который лоцманы называют юго-западным, на самом деле является северо-восточным.

Отчет о прохождении 4-го порога наггерами и гаяссами (Капитан У. Доран, август 1897 г.)

Ниже представлен отчет о реке между Кассингаром и Амари вместе с замечаниями по поводу моментов, наблюдавшихся мной лично:

Наггеры при сильном попутном ветре могут подняться до Мешра-эль-Абиада, но ниже Мешра-эль-Абиада на протяжении примерно 3 или 4 миль наблюдается сильное течение, а бечевник (на правом берегу) каменистый или сильно загроможден деревьями сунт.

Мешра-эль-Абиад не представляет больших трудностей. Около 50 человек проведут наггер вместимостью 200 ардебов через это место за полчаса.

На протяжении примерно 3 миль после выхода из Мешра-эль-Абиада фарватер у правого берега не представляет трудностей, хотя течение сильное, а берега крутые и покрыты кустарником сунт, который при высоком Ниле будет мешать проводке судов на бечеве.

Примерно в 5 милях от Мешра-эль-Абиада берега становятся скалистыми, встречаются пороги; вода очень бурная, а камни многочисленны. Я преодолел этот порог, имеющий протяженность около мили и простирающийся чуть ниже селения Шебабик, при почти штормовом ветре. В противном случае прохождение, полагаю, было бы затруднительным, так как скалы на правом берегу очень крутые, и без сильного ветра, вероятно, потребовался бы сухопутный обнос (волок). От селения Шебабик, следуя по фарватеру у правого берега мимо селения Абу-Хараз, на протяжении примерно 6 миль встречается спокойная вода, вплоть до достижения порога Хальфая.

От Хальфая до селения Амари, на расстоянии около 2 миль, река крайне сложна, извилиста и скалиста, на всем протяжении требуется проводка на бечеве.

По имеющимся у меня сведениям, от Амари река идет без особых затруднений.

Следует иметь в виду, что эти замечания относятся к состоянию реки в момент моего прохождения. Любой подъем или спад воды может сделать сложные места легкими и наоборот.

Рискну высказать следующие рекомендации для будущих речных конвоев:

1. Отправлять вверх по течению в настоящее время следует только суда вместимостью 150 ардебов. Крупные суда неповоротливы, вызывают большие задержки, рвут канаты и создают риск утраты грузов. Например, одно из моих судов емкостью 300 ардебов поднималось на участок, который суда в 150 ардебов преодолевали за час, в течение 4 часов. Оно порвало два каната и несколько раз чуть не потерпело крушение, помимо того, что постоянно задерживало остальной конвой. Физическая нагрузка на людей при тяге этих тяжелых судов очень велика, она намного больше, чем при проводке двух судов половинной вместимости.

2. Каждый конвой должен состоять не более чем из 20 судов под началом британского офицера и иметь при себе две роты (200 человек) египетского батальона для проводки судов через пороги, а также на обычном течении при неблагоприятном ветре. Если выше этого места, Амари, вода окажется простой, эти люди могут вернуться отсюда в Мероэ с обратным конвоем. По возможности следует отбирать людей, хорошо умеющих плавать, а поскольку работа сопряжена с большими физическими нагрузками — большинству из них приходится проводить весь день в воде, — роты следует менять после одного-двух рейсов.

Если это не считается необходимым для безопасности, эти люди не должны брать с собой оружие или боеприпасы, за исключением лишь того малого количества, которое требуется для небольшого караула, так как их приходится переносить на руках через трудные участки, что вызывает задержки.

Большой котел для приготовления пищи, «казан», не подходит для таких случаев, поскольку люди по ночам часто оказываются отрезанными на островах от остальной части конвоя и не могут получить нормальную пищу после тяжелого рабочего дня. Нечто вроде котелка фламандского образца подошло бы лучше.

3. Каждый конвой должен быть снабжен четырьмя прочными пеньковыми канатами длиной не менее чем по 200 саженей каждый, в дополнение к более тонким канатам, имеющимся на каждом судне. Последние следует проверить до отправления конвоя.

Небольшое судно вместимостью около 50 ардебов также окажется крайне полезным, чтобы позволить офицеру, командующему конвоем, передвигаться вдоль своего конвоя, а также для помощи в переброске грузов с оказавшихся поблизости судов, когда те садятся на мель на мелководье или среди камней.

Отчет о прохождении канонерских лодок от Мероэ до Абу-Хамеда с 9 по 29 августа 1897 г. (см. карты 1489, листы Мероэ и Абу-Хамед) (Командор британского флота Колин Кеппел)

До Касинджара на правом берегу река широкая, судоходство простое. Никаких препятствий. Оттуда до Кениши судоходство легкое.

У Мешра-эль-Абиада имеется сложный, узкий проход между двумя скалистыми островами с очень крутым поворотом. Вода очень бурная, это продолжается до тех пор, пока не будет достигнут остров Ум-Дерас.

Примечание. Порог, обозначенный на официальной карте как Эль-Дерми, в это время года не определялся.

Остров Ум-Дерас находится практически у подножия так называемого Габ-эль-Абда, или 4-го порога; именно отсюда речная колонна в 1884–1885 гг. прокладывала путь по левому берегу. Этот фарватер оказался настолько сложным и опасным при высоком Ниле, что было решено обследовать фарватер у правого берега. Выяснилось, что в это время года он более удобен для судоходства пароходов. Следует однако отметить, что этот фарватер, хотя и судоходный для пароходов при высоком Ниле и несомненно являющийся единственным безопасным путем в тот период, в любое другое время года непроходим, так как в межень многие его участки обнажаются.

От острова Ум-Дерас до пункта, обозначенного как Хор-Абу-Хереджиль (северный берег) (А), никаких серьезных трудностей не встречается.

В этом пункте все пушки, боеприпасы, имущество и тяжелое снаряжение всех видов были выгружены из пароходов и переброшены на руках в лагерь Эль-Бана, на расстояние около 2 миль.

Затем для проводки пароходов через этот порог были приняты следующие меры:

Вокруг судна был закреплен стальной тросовый строп. Затем с парохода были заведены два троса: один для тяги, а другой в качестве оттяжки для удержания судна на курсе и предотвращения разворота его носа силой воды.

Примерно в 600 ярдах выше по течению, у слияния с меньшим рукавом (B), эти тросы были отданы, и пароход вышел к самой южной точке следующего изгиба (C).

От этого пункта до точки, находящейся в 1100 ярдах выше по течению (D), встретились наибольшие трудности в связи с необходимостью заведения канатов на остров, лежащий в 300 ярдах выше по течению (E). Все люди, умевшие плавать, должны были переправиться на этот остров. После этого пароход был подтянут к южной оконечности острова.

Теперь канат необходимо было перебросить с острова (E) к пункту (D).

В пункте (D) тяга стала очень тяжелой, так как река оттуда на протяжении 600 ярдов до пункта (G) посреди русла испещрена разрозненными скалами, на которых потребовалось расставить группы людей для передачи каната с одной скалы на другую. От пункта (G) стальной трос был заведен на коренной берег. На протяжении всего пути использовались удерживающие тросы-оттяжки.

После прохождения скалы, отмеченной буквой (G), мощные пароходы класса «Зафир» смогли идти под парами без дополнительной тяги до Эль-Баны, в противном случае до Эль-Баны приходилось использовать канаты.

При выходе из Эль-Баны следовали фарватеру у правого берега, и хотя вода местами бурлила, прорываясь между многочисленными небольшими островами, серьезных трудностей не возникало до прибытия к подножию порога Гереду (Гериддо) (в 3¼ милях выше). Здесь пришлось пришвартоваться к берегу, чтобы каждый пароход мог пройти порог по отдельности.

Как видно, русло здесь делает очень резкий поворот (между точками A и B); огромная масса воды с большой силой устремляется между островом (длиной 440 ярдов, со скалой на западной оконечности) и южным берегом (мыс на южном берегу), где канат был закреплен за скалу, а затем постепенно потравлен, чтобы дать носу судна обойти препятствие.

От Гереду до Хош-эль-Геруфа фарватер свободен от препятствий.

Шли правым рукавом до достижения Эль-Швадията, откуда перешли к левому берегу и продолжали путь вдоль него вплоть до Ракабат-эль-Гамаль; здесь река превращается в лабиринт мелких островов. Фарватер идет вдоль левого (?) берега острова Дулка (называемого местными жителями Дирби), оставляя более мелкие острова по правую руку.

Течение оттуда стало очень сильным и оставалось таковым до достижения порога Кирбекан.

У нижней оконечности этого порога пароходы были остановлены, но поскольку после осмотра порог был признан проходимым без тяги, каждый пароход преодолел его по отдельности, во избежание риска помешать друг другу.

Затем шли по главному руслу до порога Усс; здесь масса воды была весьма значительной. От верхней точки порога Усс следовали фарватером у левого берега до острова Шерари, откуда идут по правому берегу этого острова, а затем между ним и островом Ширри выходят к правому берегу реки.

Теперь река становится очень широкой, судоходство возможно у любого берега от Саламата до Хеби. От Хеби до Абу-Селема фарватер пролегает у левого берега. На пороге Хуэлла наблюдался сильный стремительный поток воды.

Теперь река сильно изрезана мелкими островами, и хотя судоходство не слишком сложно, требуется искусное лоцманство.

Древесина была обнаружена в следующих местах:

El Bana. Salamat.

Hosh El Geruf. Abu Selem.

Uss village. Left bank, just below Mograt Island.

Маршрут (по левому берегу) от Абу-Дом-Санама до пункта напротив Хеби (или Хеббы) (Майор артиллерии Слэйд, февраль 1885 г.)

Names of Places. Distances in miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total from Merowe.

El Dueim 3 3 A small scattered village; a large white-domed tomb makes it visible for some distance.

Sagag 1 4 A compact hamlet, mostly of straw huts, ¼ mile from the river. The banks, which for the last 4 miles have been bare, here become studded with palms.

Gereif 1 5 A collection of wells and sagias from which the ground is cultivated. The uncultivated ground is covered with coarse grass. A low range of hills here touches the south of the road.

Nurri 2 7 This village extends a considerable distance inland. Near it, to the south of the road are 11 pyramids. Soon after leaving them the alluvial ground over which the road has hitherto passed gives place to sand.

Belal 1 8 A large well-built village. The road here runs close to the river between small patches of cultivation and a track of very broken rocky ground, which comes to within ¼ mile of the river. This stony tract is about 50 feet above the alluvial ground. At the east end of the village a break in the cultivation leaves room for a small camp on the river bank.

Khor-el-Sorawi 3 11 A dry watercourse, 20 yards wide. It shows signs of out-pouring a considerable stream in the rainy season. 1 mile further to the east the river makes a sharp bend to the north-east, the edge of broken ground continuing to run in an easterly direction. The road takes an intermediate course across a plain of firm gravel which lies between the rocks and the river.

Kanisa 1 12 A small village ½ mile to the north of the road, at the foot of a small rocky hill, in an angle of the river.

El Dugaiyet 1 13 A scattered village. The broken ground here again comes to within ½ mile of the river. There is a good camping ground on the river bank near the village. The road to Bir Sani and Berber here branches off. It runs at first over very rocky ground. There are said to be 90 islands in the river between this place and Belal. The cultivation of the district is for the most part on these islands.

Hamdab 5 18 A very long village with a fair amount of cultivation. The road from Dugaiyet runs between the broken ground and thick bush. Just before reaching Hamdab the rocky ground opens out considerably at the mouth of the Khor El Shungui. A good camping ground on the river bank. The road described from Hamdab onwards was followed by part of River Column, 1885.

Dates, dura, cotton, dukhn, and barley grown. The road to Berber leaves the river about 2 miles below Hamdab, crossing the rocky ground at a point marked by two solitary dom palms.

Good camping ground for a large force, commanded by rocky ridge, 400 yards from river.

Jebel Kulgeili 4 22 The road as far as Jebel Kulgeili skirts the belt of cultivation, which is interspersed with a few native houses. It is commanded the whole way by a low ridge of rocks, at a distance from the river varying from 50 to 500 yards.

Jebel Kulgeili, 400 feet high, commands the surrounding country for a distance of several miles. The direct desert road to Berti (19 miles) leaves the river at the foot of this hill.

The road, after leaving Kulgeili, becomes rocky and much cut up by ravines and sandy khors, gradually becoming more difficult as the islands of Auli are approached. The river between Hamdab and Auli is quite open, and free from broken water.

Auli 8 30 At Auli the cataract of Terai commences; but it is not difficult. There are several houses and much cultivation on the islands and on the left bank. Good camping grounds are to be found.

El Kabur 3 33 Cultivation extends along the road, broken at times by rocky and barren ground. At El Kabur, which is situated at the end of the nest of islands which forms the 4th or Edermi Cataract, there is scanty cultivation and a few houses.

From Auli to El Kabur by water the boat channel follows the right bank. There is one difficult gate, about two-thirds of the way up, at which heavy stores have to be portaged. The country to the east of the road along the left bank is very rocky and broken, and nearly impracticable for cavalry.

Kabeinat (ruined forts) 1 34 The road leaves the river at El Kabur and follows the bed of a sandy khor until an old ruined fort built upon a rocky prominence commanding the river is reached. The rocky and broken ground skirts the river between El Kabur and Kabeinat, and is impracticable for cavalry. Opposite this ruined fort there is another of a similar kind. The river between these two forts is very narrow, and forms the commencement of the Kabeinat Cataract.

Mushani ridge 5 39 The road skirts the river bank; but although the country is more open than that previously travelled it is broken at parts by rocky ridges and deep ravines. Much acacia and many dom palms are found.

Kabeinat Cataract presents no difficulty to navigation, and although the current is rapid, no broken water offering serious impediments to the passage of boats, is met with until the Gab El Abd Gate, 2 miles above the ruined forts, is reached. Here there is a direct fall of water which, however, can be avoided by going over to the right bank. From this point to Mushani ridge, which may be called the upper end of Gab El Abd Cataract, the river presents most serious difficulties. Tracking from rocks and islands has invariably to be resorted to, and at low Nile it is doubtful whether even light boats could be taken up this part of the river.

Mushani Ridge commands the country to the north-east as far as the distant hills overlooking Berti. The ridge runs at right angles to the river, and the rocks and boulders in which it terminates come down close to the left bank of the river. There is but little cultivation along this part of the river, except on the islands of Umderas and Amri, the former of which is passed just after leaving Kabeinat, and at the village of Shebabik on the right bank opposite the lower end of Umderas Island.

Warrak 1 40 There is a large tomb and a few detached huts at this point, with a certain amount of cultivation, very good camping grounds, much mimosa, and many dom-palm trees.

The cataract of Um Hababoa is here met with, lying between Kandi Island and the left bank. It is very difficult, and it is supposed, from the remains of wreckage found lying about, it was near this point that Ismail Pacha abandoned his boats in 1820.

This cataract can be avoided at high Nile by going between the islands of Amri and Kandi, the passage between which islands was nearly dry in February, 1885.

A track leads from Warrak to Berti, across rocky and broken ground; but it is not much shorter than that generally followed.

Gamra 2 42 The road skirts the river through considerable cultivation, mostly dukhn. At Gamra, which is opposite the upper end of Kandi Island, there are several native huts, and good camping grounds can everywhere be found.

The river between Warrak and Gamra is not difficult; but there is a very swift current, and tracking is necessary at certain points from the left bank.

One mile beyond Gamra the road leaves the river to avoid the rocky kopjes which command the foot and mark the commencement of the Rahami Cataract. It strikes the river again 2 miles below Berti. It is very rocky, and much cut up by deep khors and ravines.

A broad, sandy khor leaves the river 1½ miles above Gamra, and runs away to the east until lost in the desert.

By following this khor until it strikes the Kulgeili-Berti road, the mountains and rocky country overlooking Berti can be avoided, and Berti entered at its upper end.

The river between the foot of Rahami Cataract and Berti offers most serious obstacles to navigation. The boat channel lies along the right bank.

Berti 6 48 Berti is a scattered village extending over a length of 2 miles. It is situated mostly on an island which, however, forms part of the mainland at low Nile. The cultivation is very rich and plentiful, and barley, dura, cotton, wheat, beans, dates, and dukhn grow in great abundance. This is the boundary between Dongola and Berber Provinces.

The lower end of the village is situated in rocky ground, but the larger portion lies in the open.

The direct road from Jebel Kulgeili enters near the house of Suleiman Wad Gamr, about half-way up the village.

Berti is the head-quarters of the Monasir tribe, and is on the boundary between Berber and Dongola Provinces.

The island of Ishashi is passed just before reaching Berti, and is very richly cultivated.

Jebel Kirbekan 8 56 Between Berti and El Kirbekan there are several pieces of broken water, but nothing worthy of the term “cataract” is to be met with until opposite Dulka Island, where the cataract of Ragabat El Gamal obstructs the river; it is not difficult. Boni Island lies on the right side of the river, abreast of and overlapping Dulka Island, and between it and the right bank the cataract of Abu Sayal is situated. It is impassable at low Nile. In the centre of Boni Island, and in prolongation of the Kirbekan ridge, is a remarkable round-topped mountain, which can be seen for several miles before Boni Island is reached.

On leaving the belt of cultivation at Berti, the track leaves the river and winds through a mass of rocks and boulders until it again strikes the river opposite a small island, on which are the remains of a ruined castle (Castle Camp of River Column); distance from Berti, 6 miles. Scant cultivation and a good camping ground for a small force are here to be found.

After leaving the bank opposite the ruined castle, the track again quits the river and follows the bed of a sandy khor, interrupted in parts by belts of rocks and boulders until the river is again struck opposite Dulka Island (6½ miles from Castle Camp), where there is a good camping ground amidst patches of cultivation. One and a half miles beyond this point the long razor-backed hill, running at right angles to the course of the Nile, and known as Jebel Kirbekan (300 feet), is situated. It completely blocks the road, but can be easily turned by marching round its south-west extremity.

The action of 10.2.85 took place here.

El Kirbekan (village) 4 60 On leaving Jebel Kirbekan, the track follows the bed of a sandy khor, much broken in places by rocks, &c., for 4 miles, when the village of El Kirbekan, at the lower entrance of the Shukuk Pass, is reached. Here there are a few mud houses, palm trees, and some scant vegetation; barley, dura, and dukhn.

The Wadi El Arku, which breaks up into several outlets on nearing the river, comes out at this point, and it is here that the direct road to Abu Egli (78 miles), viâ the Jura Wells (48 miles), leaves the river.

Shukuk Pass (south end) ½ 60½ The Shukuk Pass is entered immediately after leaving El Kirbekan. The track leaves the river, and follows the bed of a sandy khor, completely commanded by rocky heights varying from 20 feet to 100 feet, until Jebel Shukuk (350 feet) is reached. This mountain, with its conspicuous marble tops, marks the half-way through the Pass.

Leaving Jebel Shukuk on the left-hand side, the track inclines towards the river, the Pass becomes narrower and more difficult, and at places it is impossible for more than one loaded camel to pass at a time. The track at this point is nearly impracticable, and it is with the greatest difficulty that even horses can keep their footing.

Shukuk Pass (north end) 7½ 68 The Shukuk Pass terminates suddenly opposite the upper end of Uss Island, and at the commencement of Shoar Island, on which latter island there are many small villages, and much cultivation.

The Shukuk Pass can be turned by leaving the river at El Kirbekan, striking into the desert and skirting the whole block of mountains through which the pass runs. This is an easy half-day’s camel ride, but there is no water along the road.

Capt. Maxse says (1897) the pass is 7 miles long; there is water at each end, and the going is good, with the exception of ½ mile at the south-west entrance, and ¾ mile at the north-east exit.

During that first ½ mile at the entrance the roadway is narrow and intricate, the path being strewn with quantities of small loose locks and boulders. These could be cleared away. The labour thus expended would greatly facilitate all subsequent movements of troops and transport.

The ¾ mile of exit could similarly be much improved by manual labour. A little blasting would help still more here.

There is, however, 100 yards of pathway at the bottom of a deep cutting, which would defy ordinary appliances. Still there is room for a loaded camel, and the removal of loose stones would make even this bit easy.

The interior of the pass is mostly a broad, level, sandy khor, varying in width from 5 yards to 200 yards.

Should the pass be held by a stubborn foe, it can be turned without difficulty from the east.

The river between El Kirbekan and the end of the Shukuk Pass is clear and free from obstacles, though it flows at times between steep and rocky banks.

Just as the upper end of Uss Island is reached, a small rapid has to be passed which is not, however, very difficult.

Both north and south of the Shukuk Pass there are numerous drawings of a rough description representing cattle, monkeys, and dogs, probably the same period as those at Murrat—2nd and 3rd century A.D. (Major Sir H. Hill, Bart.).

Salamat 12 80 On debouching from the Shukuk Pass, the country commences to open out, and the hills to recede further from the river. The track follows the bank, which now commences to become more generally cultivated. Just before coming abreast of Shoar Island, the track ascends a rocky plateau, from the summit of which the first view of Jebel Osma is obtained.

The Island of Sherrai follows Shoar Island, but it is very barren and rocky. One mile up this island the cataract of Tuari is passed. It is very difficult, and the river is here much broken by rocks and shallows.

After passing Tuari Cataract the cultivation increases still more, and sagias and groups of date palms occur at frequent intervals along the bank. The fertile and densely populated Island of Sherri succeeds that of Sherrari.

The track continues along the bank of the river, deviating occasionally to avoid clusters of rocks on a khor, until Salamat, opposite the upper end of Sherri Island, is reached.

It is at this point that the cataract of Um Deras is placed on the official maps, but no impediment to navigation exists.

Salamat, the principal village in the Monasir country, is a long straggling village of fairly-built mud huts, the principal of which belong to Suleiman Wad Gamr and his uncles, Omar and Abu Bakr. The country is very rich and there are several large groups of palm trees.

The desert comes down to the bank of the river on the right bank, just above Salamat.

The track, after leaving Salamat, follows the bank of the river until Jebel Osma is reached, 3 miles

Opposite Hebi, or Hebba 8 88 Leaving this solitary mountain on the left, a detour of 1 mile is made, where the river is again struck. A broad sandy khor runs at the foot of Jebel Osma. The bank is now followed until abreast of the village of Hebi, situated on the right bank. The road is good throughout. Patches of rich cultivation are constantly met with, near groups of huts built in the rocks and boulders, which are left on the right-hand side.

There are two broad khors running into the desert between Salamat and Jebel Osma. Mimosa or sûnt trees, of an unusually large size, are met with along the road. The river is free from obstruction.

If going to Abu Hamed, it is advisable to cross the Nile opposite Hebi, where the river affords great facilities for crossing and swimming animals. The island of Kan and smaller islands on the right bank may be utilized in the crossing. Lieut.-Colonel Stewart’s steamer, on its way from Khartoum, was wrecked on the island of Kan on the 18th September, 1884, and he and his party were treacherously murdered in the house of one named Othman Fakri, commonly known as Othman Amian, in the village of Hebi.

Hebi is a straggling village, composed of small mud huts, built in the rocks. There are some conspicuous palm trees on the bank of the river. The village was completely destroyed by the British troops in February, 1885. There is much cultivation in and near Hebi: dura, dukhn, barley, beans, etc., growing in luxuriance.

От Старого Мероэ до Абу-Хамеда по правому берегу Нила. (Майор, достопочтенный М. Г. Талбот, инженерные войска, октябрь 1897 г.)

Общие примечания.

(i.) The grazing for camels is moderate.

(ii.) The places where water can be obtained depend on the time of the year. The bed of the river is the only source of supply.

(iii.) No considerable elevation is crossed anywhere. Probably the road is never more than 100 to 150 feet above high Nile level.

(iv.) Telegraph line follows road where not otherwise mentioned.

(v.) No supplies obtainable on right bank.

Names of Places. Distances in miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total from Merowe.

Old Merowe

Village.

J. Barkal 4 4 Two miles inland. Ancient ruined pyramids at base. Desert road from Dongola joins river here.

Kasinjar 4 8 Telegraph line crosses from left to right bank here.

Small fort.

Amrao 19 17 On leaving Kasinjar fort the road curves round with the river, but gradually recedes from it. After 2 miles of good firm sand, with thin thorny scrub, the road turns away from the river to the north-east, passing to the right of Jebel Wad El Duga, beyond which it turns N.N.E., over undulating, stony ground, draining to right. The going is good to 11 miles. At about 13 miles road passes into a shallow basin draining east, from which it emerges at 14½ miles, and begins to descend to river by a bad path down and across small khors. Reaches river at Meshra El Abiad, a good watering place, at 15¾ miles. From 11 to 14½ miles the road, though generally good, is less so than before, and passes over bits of stony ground, which would be very troublesome at night or even for a considerable body marching by day. From Meshra El Abiad road runs along river bank; good going for camels, and some grass and thorn grazing. A few huts at Amrao, where there is plenty of room to camp and some shade.

There is also a road by the river, which was used by General Hunter’s column. It is said to be bad and to take baggage camels 5 hours.

Abu Haraz 9½ 36½ Desert road leaves river at once and follows telegraph wire for 3½ miles, when latter strikes off to right to river, and continues along it to Abu Haraz. To 3½ miles road is good, in flat khor, few bushes on left, and gigantic boulders on right. Keeps on straight to 8 miles, crossing plain strewn with scattered ridges of granite boulders, and then turns slightly to right down to river at Abu Haraz, 9 miles, where there are a few ruined mud houses, and a clump of palms at 9½ miles, with camp and shade for a battalion. No water along road.

Hosh El Geruf 12 48½ For 4½ miles road winds in and out of low slaty and granitic ridges, with strip of good sand between, keeping generally near the river. It then leaves the river near Khor Abu Herejil and strikes across low slatey ridges to about 7½ miles, when it again strikes an arm of the river, dry at this season, along which it keeps for 1 mile, and then across broad, low open plateau to Hosh El Geruf. Like all the names in this part, Hosh El Geruf is applied to a strip along the river, rather than to any one spot or village. The spot referred to here is a clump of palms, at the foot of a low hill, near a little cultivation.

Salmia 14 62½ Road generally bad, quite unsuitable for wheels. It follows river at starting for 1 mile, and then, leaving it, winds up and down khors and over low rocky ridges almost the whole way. From about 8½ to 10 miles is the worst bit. Here horses should be led in single file, after that road enters sandy plain and is good to 13 miles, when it commences to cross low ridges again. At 13½ miles the river is seen for the first time and the road descends to Salmia, which consists of two or three groves of palms, with a field or two of dura and three or four houses of Monasir. Room to camp three or four battalions, with a little shade.

Dakhfili, south end 12½ 75 Road leaves river at once, and for 1¾ miles crosses stony ground strewn with boulders. It then gets on to sandy and more open ground, and is good to 3 miles when it drops down to valley of river by a bad path. Then very good sand to 4 miles, where it strikes river bank at Kamasab, just opposite Jebel Us. From here road is bad nearly to 6 miles, when a strip of good going takes it as far as Shukoka, 9 miles, where there is a little cultivation on the bank of the river and on a backwater. Southern end of Dakhfili is reached at 12½ miles, road being partly along river and never very far from it, and passing several small groups of huts. Dakhfili is a large camping ground ¾ mile long, opposite Shirri Island. It has a few palms and some large sunt trees. No cultivation to speak of.

There is another route to Dakhfili from Hosh El Geruf, which leaves the river at much the same place, and keeps straight across the desert to Dakhfili. It was much used by convoys, even at night, and is undoubtedly much better going than the Salmia route, and probably a couple of miles shorter, but there is no water along it.

El Gab, viâ Um Duema 19 94 At the north-east end of Dakhfili, road leaves the river, and after 1 mile over heavy sand and sand-covered rock, emerges into the open Khor Haweili, 500 to 600 yards wide, and bounded by low sand-covered slopes. (From this point a track leads to the river and round by it to Um Duema, distance 14 to 15 miles, bad going.) Road continues up khor to 7 miles over sand and gravel, generally very good for camels, but a little soft for men and horses. Room to march in any formation. (From here desert road continues almost straight on to El Gab, 17 miles, mostly good going, but some heavy sand for the last 3 or 4 miles.) At 7½ miles the Um Duema road strikes off to right by an easy but unfrequented path over low hills partly covered with sand, and descends by a baddish path between Ab Rumeila and Hebi at 11 miles. Road continues easy but narrow along the bank, passing Hebi, 12 miles, where there are a few houses, with some palms and a little cultivation, and Um Duema at 13 miles, which is similar to Hebi. At 14 miles, road enters sand which lasts to El Gab. It is heavy in places and bad for men and horses. El Gab is an ancient ruined post on a low rock overlooking the river. There is a small patch of cultivation and a few palms. Plenty of room to camp.

Sand continues heavy to 2½ miles, where direct road by desert leaves river and strikes it again at about 10 miles. (I did not follow this, but believe it is fairly good going.) It is possible to march along the river bank, a little longer, but the sand is heavier.

Khulla, north end direct road 16 110 Khulla is a strip of the bank some 4 miles long; no houses nor cultivation, only a few shepherds’ huts; many sunt trees and dom palms. Much room to camp and plenty of shade. The sand is piled with hillocks along the bank, and the road runs on lower ground from 100 to 600 yards from river. Northern boundary of Khulla is Khor Hamadein. This was the furthest point attained by the River Column, 1885.

Ab Tin, by river road 20 130 After crossing Khor Hamadein, road keeps due east for about 4 miles and passes through Gemmeiza, a district similar to Khulla, but not so well wooded. Low gravelly hills approach on right bank, and at several points tracks branch off to the left forming short cuts over these hills towards Ab Tin. (I did not travel by any of these, but I understand they are easy going.) The telegraph line follows one of these. At 4 miles road turns north by baddish track, heavy and stony, following river bank, and passes small village of Tibna at 6 miles. Fair but heavyish going to 10 miles, where short cuts from Khulla and telegraph line join in. Bad going to 11 miles over low, rocky ridges covered with sand; then excellent going to Ginefab, 14 miles. Then ½ mile of bad going, and 5 miles good going to Shellal Gurgurib over open ground with many sunt trees; ¾ mile more of good going to Ab Tin at 20 miles. This, though quite a small place, is the largest village that has been passed. It has a small area of cultivation and some palms.

Abu Hamed 10 140 Road good and open, though heavy in places, for 5 miles, till it strikes railway; then heavy sand with small hillocks and many dom palms and other trees to 9 miles, where road and river turn south and track gets harder. The railway station is about 1 mile north of Abu Hamed village. Residence of Mamur and headquarters of the district.

Абу-Хамед. Абу-Хамед прежде был примечателен главным образом как пункт отправления и прибытия различных караванных путей, пересекающих пустыню Короско, и получил свое название от глубоко почитаемого шейха, чья гробница находится здесь. Купцы имели обыкновение оставлять здесь любые вещи, которыми они не хотели обременять себя во время путешествия через пустыню, и окрестности гробницы бывали завалены всевозможной избыточной поклажей, оставляемой владельцами дожидаться их возвращения под защитой лишь святости покойного шейха.

В окрестностях селения имеются значительные плантации акаций и дум-пальм; кроме того, оно примечательно многочисленными дюнами, или песчаными холмами, нанесенными ветрами из окружающей пустыни.

Это небольшая деревня, совершенно лишенная каких-либо припасов. Бесплодная пустыня подступает к самой кромке Нила. Высота 1040 футов над уровнем моря. Пустыня совершенно плоская. Глубокий песок. Генерал-майор Хантер атаковал и взял этот пункт у дервишей 7 августа 1897 г. (См. стр. 254.) Железная дорога дошла сюда из Вади-Хальфы 31 октября 1897 г. В настоящее время это водозаборная станция для поездов, с современными ванными комнатами для туристов и т. д. Здесь резиденция мамура и инспектора округов Монасир и Робатаб. Также предполагается сделать его узловым пунктом ветки на Мероэ.

Подотдел (b). От Абу-Хамеда до Хартума Сведения о фактическом судоходстве по реке и описание ее берегов между Абу-Хамедом и Хартумом, особенно на участке между Абу-Хамедом и Бербером, зафиксированы в скудных объемах.

Между этими двумя последними пунктами пустыня изрезана многочисленными оврагами и усеяна акациями и дум-пальмами; речное русло изобилует рифами и порогами, судоходство всегда затруднено и несколько опасно; растительность встречается лишь редкими клочками, а жители бедны илочисленны. Однако население и посевы на обоих берегах увеличиваются.

Порог Мограт. В паре миль выше Абу-Хамеда находится порог Мограт, состоящий из нескольких миль сложных для прохождения участков (при низком Ниле). После преодоления порога Мограт судоходство по реке идет беспрепятственно на протяжении примерно 32 миль до острова Меро, напротив Абу-Хашима.

Порог Багара. Как препятствие для судоходства порог Абу-Хашим значения не имеет, а от порога Мограт простирается участок длиной около 50 миль с практически открытой водой до порога Багара.

Здесь Нил делает изгиб на запад, и на протяжении 2–3 миль русло реки заполнено массами черных скал, местами образующих плотины, над которыми река с грохотом несет свои воды при быстром падении (декабрь). Этот порог проходим при высоком Ниле, но непроходим при низком или даже среднем уровне воды.

Порог Багара непротяженный, но в период низкой или даже средней воды довольно бурный.

Берега реки не представляют примечательных особенностей, страна на восточном берегу представляет собой почти необитаемую пустыню, где единственной растительностью являются обычные дум-пальмы, окаймляющие берег, с редкими и скудными участками возделываемой земли; однако по мере приближения к порогу Багара положение на западном берегу улучшается.

5-й порог. 5-й порог, или Шеллаль-эль-Хомар, в 24 милях от Эль-Багары, представляет собой систему извилистых порогов, протекающих среди хаотичных опасных скал. Он образован грядой черных камней, разбитых на острова, главный из которых называется Драка. Здесь на самом деле имеется два отчетливых порога: один на севере, имеющий два довольно опасных и сложных прохода из-за того, что берега покрыты кустарником, скалами и мимозой, что исключает использование бечевы; другой на юге, именуемый Шеллаль-эль-Хомар. Эти пороги, как и предшествующие им, опасны и непроходимы в межень.

They were successfully surmounted by the gunboats of the Nile Expedition in September, 1897 (high Nile).

От 5-го порога, где оставляют землях Дар-Робатаб и начинается Дар-Бербер, по обоим берегам тянется тропа на протяжении 30 миль до города Бербер. Примерно на половине пути характер почвы меняется от первозданной пустыни к песчанику, и гряды холмов из этого материала начинают появляться на обоих берегах, но более заметно на западном берегу, где напротив Эль-Хасы край каменистого плато высотой около 100 футов, известного как Джебель-Накам, подступает на расстояние до 200 ярдов к урезу воды; оттуда дорога следует по западному берегу на расстоянии около ¾ мили, причем промежуточная полоса земли хорошо возделывается, а акации и дум-пальмы встречаются довольно часто.

На правом берегу, хотя окантовка из акаций тянется вдоль Нила, посевы почти полностью отсутствуют, за исключением непосредственной близости деревень, попадающихся через частые промежутки; после вступления в зону песчаников местность представляет собой не что иное, как одну громадную пустынную равнину, простирающуюся насколько хватает глаз.