Track continued to be good, and passed through villages of Kanje and Loma, almost deserted owing to distance from Walu to Bangaia.
Bangaia
7 59 Hafirs. The village is small and the hafirs are in a marshy overflow from a khor ½ mile S.E. of village. These Burun hafirs are generally dug in marshy spots, and sometimes are merely reservoirs, sometimes really gammams. They are carefully covered in with sticks, and grass and water is generally clean and good. At Bangaia very good and plentiful.
Tuer
3 62 Small village with hafir—several deserted villages between it and Bangaia.
Beio 5½ 67½ Track good, country fairly open. Small village.
Hillock 1 68½ Very small hillock with few huts.
Kyela 2½ 71 Kyela is a group of several villages with wide track of cultivation. Inhabitants gone away for water.
After 4 miles track ceases, and guides took us N.W., avoiding a piece of badly broken cotton soil.
K. Yungen
9 80 Lot of giraffe and ostrich. A gammam with some very bad water in Khor Yungen.
Nyeda
3 83 Nyeda, a village with 300 to 400 people on Khor Murga (probably the same as Khor Yungen). Poor water in gammams in khor. These are 6 feet deep and fill slowly; barely gave water enough for 50 animals and 50 men.
From here a good number of people know a little Arabic or Dinka. The Sheikh is Dar El Sagia, and he has been fighting with the surrounding villages.
The whole district is called Dar El Imam and was under a Sheikh called Wad Regab Wad Ali. This man was murdered some four years ago, and Dar El Sagia claims to be his successor, but is not recognised by most of the villages. This is about the limit of the raiding of the Beni Shangul people.
Khor Murga is said to be a branch of the big khor which formed from the khors between Jebel Kurmuk and Jebel Fanagamenta, passes close to J. Jumjum under the name of Khor Tumbakh.
J. Jumjum lies south of J. Mofwa and is the southern limit of Idris Wad Regab’s influence at present. Khor Tumbakh appears to split up into branches, and one probably reaches Khor Adar near Rengachuk.
Hafirs
4 87 Two good hafirs. Track bad over broken cotton soil.
Nyeda (Sh. Tukani) camp 8 95 After passing hafirs track becomes very good and goes through a number of villages whose inhabitants had gone to water. About two miles short of camp entered on a wide stretch of cultivation, cotton soil. Scattered villages. No defined khor, but probably the whole under water in the rains from overflow of Khor Tumbakh. There were many gammams, but water very bad and muddy.
Dinko Wad Dageig
7 102 Bad going over cotton soil. Dinko Wad Dageig was last Burun village. It is situated in a grove of dom palms, dry sandy soil. Water from gammam 10 feet deep, plentiful and good. This village is in about 10° 10′ and 30° 10′ E.
Tibn 13 115 There is no defined track west of this, but hunting parties frequently go to El Tame. Passed over open country; cotton soil, rather rough going. Passed the Debba of Tibn lying ¼ mile to right just before entering a track of park land; heglig trees.
Tibn was the most outlying of the Dinka villages, but had been deserted since the beginning of the Mahdia. Water used to be stored in hafirs, but now none.
A second debba was seen about four miles further W.
El Tame
10 125 Heglig trees last for eight miles, and cotton soil is bad. El Tame is a marshy lake, or rather two large pools in a khor, which, however, does not appear to connect to anything.
Water is plentiful, but muddy and fouled by game. There are no trees or anything to mark the position of the water except flocks of birds. Game very abundant, and both Buruns and Dinkas come to hunt. The latter are very much afraid of the Buruns.
Khor Adar 15 140 Kept S.W. for 15 miles. Cotton soil and fairly good going; country generally open with a few clumps of heglig. Struck Khor Adar at some feriks belonging to Sheikh Wal Awal at about the point where Captain Wilson’s reconnaissance ended. This point is about 40 miles due east of Kodok. The Dinkas, however, in going to Kodok always follow the Khor Adar to Rengachuk and thence across to the Nile at Mialek, which makes a journey at least 20 miles longer and involves several crossings of the Khor Adar.
Kodok 60 (?) 200 (?)
134. — ХОР-БОСУК через ХОР-ЭЙНЕ до ГОХИ.
Майором Г. де Х. Смитом, февраль 1904 г.
Place. Miles. Description.
Inter-mediate. Total.
Camp (Khor Bosuk) — —
Cavalry Camp (Khor Bosuk) 12 12 The road runs along the foot of the N. slopes of J. Beldoesu; a new road now made along other side of valley and along course of stream which is much better going.
From Cavalry Camp, where there is a lot of water (running in khor), the road goes up a slope up the Shanendo valley, also called Fanishuman (name of old village). The ascent up the valley is easy at first, but afterwards up steep slopes with rocks. Water is met with twice on way up—at one place a running stream. There is a bad bit of road just at this stream, difficult even to make it safe for horses and mules. For camels the road would require zigzaging and grading. There are flat places on the tops of the spurs where halts can be made.
Khor Eine
7 19 From top of pass the road goes along the plateau in an easterly direction till Khor Eine is reached, where there is a flowing stream, good shade and grazing, and camping ground.
Camp at Goha 3 22 From Khor Eine good road round spur leads into Goha, about 2 miles before reaching which road branches off to Asosa, going in a southerly direction. The tukls are on the foot of slope of J. Goha and also all over the top of the hill. J. Goha is a series of broken, rocky hills, and is in reality a spur projecting from the higher plateau.
There is a fair amount of cultivation in patches in the open valley. There is a running stream at foot of Goha Hill on N. side, which is fed by many tributaries, most of which contain running water. There is a good camping ground across this stream on low hills facing the lower N. slopes of J. Goha, water and grazing plentiful. Supplies of dura apparently got from Asosa. There were only about 20 cattle to be seen, and no sign of any trade going on or Gallabas about. This may be due to the disturbed state of the country and the roads being closed.
(Note.—A small party of cavalry marched along this road at the rate of 3 to 4 miles per hour.)
135. — ГОХА через К. БАРСУ до БОСУКА.
Майором Г. де Х. Смитом, февраль 1904 г.
Place. Miles. Description.
Inter-mediate. Total.
Camp Goha — — Left Camp Goha in a north-westerly direction—road leads across the plateau and crosses some khors. This is a good road and apparently much used by Gallabas, as their camping places at intervals on the khors were passed—where there is the usual pool or trickling stream. The road comes to top of pass marked 4,670 feet. From here an extensive view is obtained of Dul, J. Jerok, etc.
The descent of the pass is steep, although the road is well defined. There is only one real good halting place on a spur before descending into the Barsu valley.
K. Barsu
9 14 The road crosses the khor at a conspicuous Gemmeiza tree where there is water in small quantities. Further on the stream runs in places and disappears again. A good camping ground is reached a 5 hours from camp at Goha which is used by Gallabas.
Camp Khor Bosuk 8 22 The road leads along the khor, water running at intervals of 45 minutes; from this point the roads separate to Dul Jerok and towards Mindok. Taking the last one khor under J. Agadi is reached—good grazing and water here, and vegetables cultivated—from here camp Bosuk is one hour and half along the broken ground at foot of slopes of the Beldoesu valley.
(Note.—A small party of Cavalry marched along this route at an average rate of 2¾ miles per hour.)
136. — ЛАГЕРЬ НА ХОР-БОСУК до АСОСЫ.
Майором Г. де Х. Смитом, март 1904 г.
Place. Miles. Description.
Inter-mediate. Total.
Camp Khor Bosuk
— — The road runs along the foot of the N. slopes of J. Beldoesu. A new road has now been made along the other side of valley and along course of stream, which is much better going.
Cavalry Camp (Khor Bosuk)
12 12 From Cavalry Camp, where there is a lot of water (running in khor). The road goes up a slope up the Shanendo valley, also called Fanishuman (name of old villages). The ascent up the valley is easy at first, afterwards up steep slopes with rocks. Water is met with twice on way up, at one place a running stream. There is a bad bit of road just at this stream, difficult even to make it safe for horses and mules. For camels the road would require zigzaging and grading. There are flat places on the top of the spurs where halts can be made.
Khor Eine
7 19 From top of pass the road goes along the plateau in an easterly direction till Khor Eine is reached, where there is a flowing stream, good shade, grazing and camping ground.
Khor Afaferi
13 32 From Khor Eine good road round spur into Goha. About 2 miles out on this road Goha-Asosa track strikes it in a southerly direction, goes up parallel to N. slopes of Goha hills, crossing pass on to top of plateau; water-course on N. side of road, water also. Nearly at once cross a khor on top of plateau with water which flows down in direction Khor Zalan. Road rocky in few places, but on whole good. Good camp at Khor Afaferi, 13 miles.
Good road crosses a marsh near Abdel Rahman Wad Khojali’s village, which is passed after 2½ hours’ march. Asosa comes in view across a wide valley which takes over 1 hour to get round; a water course passed. Convenient to water here before going into Asosa, as water some distance off village.
Asosa
15 47 Asosa is a collection of villages on a large spur which is part of the plateau and juts out over a valley.
There are three rocky hills, all with houses on them. People prosperous and well to do. A certain amount of cultivation near, but chief cultivation near a small hill E. of Asosa. Sheikh Hamed apparently a very determined ruler and looks after his people. There is an Abyssinian post here of about 15 to 20 men.
(Note.—A troop of Sudanese regular cavalry and a party of mounted irregulars marched by this route at the rate of 3 miles per hour, forced marching.)
137. — АСОСА до ХОР-БОСУКА через ХОР-СУРГАЛЛА и ХОР-ЗАЛАН.
Майором Г. де Х. Смитом, март 1904 г.
Place. Miles. Description.
Inter-mediate. Total.
Asosa — — Leaving Asosa by road to Goha and march for an hour along it. Then branch off W. and drop off plateau on to a succession of small hills, with villages, going along crest of their spurs. A few steep and rocky places in crossing khors—to Khor Dadeferi—running stream with village above it, not much room for camp.
K. Dadeferi
10 10
Ascent out of khor steep to village; steep ascents and descents, passing cultivated clearings and villages (all Hamed’s).
Khor Sirekoli (Surgalla) 8 18 Reach Khor Sirekoli (Surgalla), good running stream, pretty open ground here, good camp, grass plentiful. Road now rises abruptly.
Khor Akori
6 24 Road, after rising abruptly out of valley over hill, goes W., very steep and rocky track. Apparently not been much used lately; passes over low rocky hills, a constant up and down, S. of J. Fanoje and then turns N. along foot of Fanoje hills, crosses Khor Akori, water here by digging, good grass.
Khor Zalan
6 30 After a mile strike Kirin road, along this to Khor Zalan; water plentiful, also grass.
Camp Bosuk
6 36 Go along track for 3 miles, then strike off to W., cross khor with water into camp.
138. — ГОРЕ до АБВОНГА (на СОБАТЕ).
Капитаном Г. Х. Уилсоном, февраль — март 1904 г.
Примечание. Маршрут, описанный в этом отчете, после пересечения Баро на 52,5 милях от Горе следует по левому берегу этой реки до Итанга, оттуда по правому берегу до Насера, затем по левому берегу Собата до Абвонга. От Гамбелы, в 64,5 милях от Горе, лучшая тропа на запад пролегает вдоль правого берега. Путешествие по этому маршруту в самый сухой сезон, т.е. с февраля по май, не представляет трудностей. Практически ни на какие припасы рассчитывать нельзя.
Place. Miles. Description.
Inter-mediate. Total.
Gore
Gore is described elsewhere. It is surrounded by hills, some of which appear to be of nearly equal height. Country thickly wooded, but being cleared for cultivation.
2½ 2½ Track from here gets bad, going through forest and over a khor, east bank of which is very steep and difficult.
3½ 6 Forest gets very thick and tangled, roots and fallen trees lying across track. Hills very steep.
3 9 Forest gets thinner, and glimpses of Gore can be had. Villages also appear in the open clearings. Some of the rivers hereabouts are bridged, but the bridges are very bad and dangerous for animals, which can in dry season cross by fording.
Rest house 3¼ 12¼ House where travellers generally stop first march out from Gore, or last march in.
1⅛ 13⅜ Rocky river bed to cross. Route for next 6 miles is hilly and thickly wooded; several rivers to cross, mostly with rocky bottoms.
5⅝ 19 Beginning of Bure district; country much more open and thickly populated and cultivated; track much less hilly and wider.
5⅞ 24⅞ Market place on top of a hill; market twice a week.
Ato Melka’s house 4⅝ 29½ Track much better here and hills not difficult, country cleared of trees to great extent and much cultivated.
1 30½ Market place.
Ato Takallé’s house 5⅞ 36⅜ Situated on a hill. River to cross just before reaching it. Takallé is governor of all Bure, and is charged with guarding the pass at Goma, which leads up from the Baro country.
Guard 4 40⅜ Guard house on hill (tukls and a “hosh”). Officer stationed here with about 30 men to guard the pass and report all arrivals and departures to the Ras.
Goma 6 46⅜ Rest houses on the top of pass. Descent for first two miles very difficult, track winding amongst boulders and large rocky slabs. It is necessary to use one’s hands and knees in getting up some of the places.
2⅛ 48½ Enter forest and cross mountain torrent, which would probably be impassable after heavy rains. From here down to the Baro ford is not difficult, though tiring, and, except for one or two bad ravines, loaded animals can get along without much difficulty.
River Baro (ford) 4 52½ Baro Ford spanned by a very ricketty wooden bridge, which is no longer safe. Animals and men cross river-bed in dry season: 3-4 feet of water. Crossing very difficult owing to rocky uneven bottom and strong current, river here being succession of rapids. After crossing Baro, track leaves river and runs round hill, joining river again about 4 miles further on, from whence track follows river more or less closely as far as
Gambela 12 64½ Long scattered district, villages mostly on R. bank; a few small villages hidden in the forest on L. bank, inhabitants of which fled on appearance of Abyssinians. Recognised ferry here, two dug-outs. River, however, fordable for animals (January 14). Thick forest both banks. River full of hippos and crocodiles. Track leaves river here and runs about a mile inland as far as
R. Bonga 1½ 66 10 yards wide, 10 feet banks, and 1 to 2 feet water. Sandy bottom and passage easy. The regular track westwards from Gambela is on R. bank. I, however, followed L. bank to investigate. Gambela is called by the Anuaks Egelo. Track from here very bad, almost nonexisting, it being necessary to hew a way through the jungle in places. Ground very rocky at foot of small hills.
River Ichok 11 77
River Wonkai 1½ 78½
River Wangd Wong 1 79½
River Wanten ¾ 80¼ All above dry (February, 1904). Width from 20 to 50 yards. Sandy bottoms and steep banks. Must be quite impassable after heavy rains, but Anuaks say that they quickly drain off.
Ile de Faidherbe ½ 80¾ Series of rapids and small islands in dry season. Site where steamer was stranded marked by huge stone like a tomb-stone, 10 feet high, on a grass-covered island, which is submerged at high Nile. Anuaks and Abyssinians say the Faidherbe was carried away about three months after being left there, in three pieces, by Joti’s and Tesemma’s men, 200 to 300 men carrying a section on a tree trunk. Traces of broad track cleared for this purpose on river bank noticeable now. Small village right, track on left very bad, runs through long grass and forest to beginning of
Finkio (Penkio) (site of Trading Station) 7¾ 88½ Finkio; natives pronounce it Finkio, not Penkio. Villages, i.e., clusters of huts or homesteads all along river here onwards. Names of villages marked on map are misleading, as the name applies to a district perhaps 10 miles long. A shorter track exists from near Ogara to Itang, but I could not take it, as it was past mid-day, and I had to halt on water. Track on to Itang from Nyokwar very bad, as it follows all bends of river except in one place, and ground is a succession of small deep gullies that are impassable for transport unless ramped, or marched round.
Nyokwar 14½ 103
Ideni 14½ 117½ Beginning of district of Ideni R. and Itang L.
Itang 3 120½ Eastern boundary of Itang Enclave. Sheikh Gelo, brother-in-law of Sheikh Nagor, of Ideni. Gelo is much feared by Anuaks, who approach his presence on all fours. Baro fordable here (February), 2 to 3 feet deep. Fine Gemmeiza trees at Itang, and good forest of fuel trees in vicinity.
Most of these distances will not compare with the map, as there is no regular track on left bank. Owing to swampy nature of country in rains, track continually changes as fresh ground becomes passable and country dries up and gets burnt. Track in places dangerous, as it runs through dense long grass, within a foot of a 10 to 15 feet drop into river. Cows and transport animals fell over this on several occasions.
Ajuoto 1 121½ Track between Itang and Gambela must be followed on right bank, that on left is too bad. Cross river at Itang. One mile on is village, part of district of Pangmala, village being under Sheikha Ajuoto. This village is situated in a dense rubber forest, and the rubber vines are found all along the river in the Anuak country. Nobody collects the rubber. All approaches to this village were closed with thorn “abattis,” owing to the presence of Abyssinians.
1 122½ Cross a small khor, which is sandy and fordable for animals at this point only at this time of year. There is a shorter track, which leaves the Sheikha’s village on the right, but leads to a wide part of the khor, impassable to animals owing to deep mud. Track now runs along edge of dense forest right and broad khor left, with forest beyond.