«Англо-египетский Судан: Справочник для офицеров правительства Судана, Том 2»

¾ 48½ Khor Dabdub—small.

J. Doga ½ 49 J. Doga, 1 mile away on right of road—jagged top.

J. Lukka 3¾ 52¾ Road curves round to right in a wide sweep and enters valley at foot of mountain. (Described in Kologi-Lukka road.)

(ii.) J. Lukka to J. Errio.

J. Lukka — — Road leads N. out of valley for ½ mile, then curves to left along high ground on northern spurs of J. Lukka. Good going over gravelly ridges; by making short detours to right, at khors, all dismounting may be avoided. Much cultivation on right.

Khor Tuffa — 6 The Khor Tuffa 20 yards broad, 12 feet deep; must dismount here—quite dry. Road becomes stony after khor.

Errio

2 8 Village of Errio is reached after bending round sharp to left and crossing a “nek,” or “col.” Many cattle. Population, Kawahla Arabs crossed with Nubas. Population about 700, under Sheiks Badei Bakr and Abballa Adam. No rifles seen. Quiet people; do not raid. Plenty of dura.

Water plentiful but dirty. Best camp ½ mile beyond village to S.W., on Tira El Akhdar road.

(iii.) Route J. Errio to J. Talodi, viâ Tosi and J. Meselli.

J. Errio — — Road runs S.W. through thorn bush over cotton soil. Open country both sides; also cultivation.

0 5½ Pass small hill on right.

3 8½ Hillock ¼ mile away on left.

½ 9 Cross khor, 12 feet deep, 12 yards broad.

Tosi

½ 9½ Tosi village of about 500 Kawahla Arabs crossed with Nubas, under Sheikh El Fadl Didigair, lying at south end of small stony hill 400 or 500 feet high. Water supply poor. Supplies poor.

4½ 14 Road now passes between hills and drops down about 100 feet over an “agaba,” and leads through cotton soil for 1 mile to

Khor Kagala 2¾ 16¾ A broad shallow khor in thick bush. A hill about 300 feet high on right of crossing. Good going.

K. El Kirki 2¼ 19 Khor El Kirki—small.

J. Meselli 2 21 J. Meselli—on right.

K. Um Sinin 2 23 Khor Um Sinin; forest land.

K. Joghan 5 28 Khor Joghan; forest land.

½ 28½ Crosses ridge and drops down about 100 feet to

Amuti

1½ 30 300 yards on left of road several big pools of clear good water. Best watering place; better than Tosi and Talodi after February. Good going to

Um Dual

5½ 35½ A small hillock and (in January, 1904) a pool of clear water 120 yards long, 40 yards wide, 4 feet deep. No shade.

Cultivation by people of Talodi. About 1½ or 2 miles south is an odd needle-shaped rock some 200 feet high, visible for 20 miles round.

Road now leads through thick forest for 4 miles. Roan antelope seen.

4 39½ Cotton soil and light bush.

K. Abu Um Jamad 1 40½ The Khor Abd Um Jamad no obstacle in dry weather. Cultivation begins again.

Talodi (Tebeldia) 3 43½ The village of Tebeldia, at E.N.E. corner of Talodi, is passed. It lies a mile away in valley to right.

Talodi (Felaita) 1 44½ Village of Felaita and barracks of half company 12th Sudanese.

J. Talodi is a rugged precipitous mountain, about 1,300 feet high and 28 miles in circumference. On its eastern face is a valley running a short way into mountain (village of Felaita in opening), which is said to communicate by a rough path, known as “Darb El Haramia,” with a corresponding valley on the western face.

There are three villages, all nominally under the head sheikh, an old man called Sherif Wad Abu Omo:—

Tebeldia, population 800, Sheikh Mamun.

Felaita, „ 2,200, „ Abdalla Shamsham.

Ageira, „ 800, „ Shanna Wad El Aris.

The last named village lies some 7 miles away to the S.W. of the mountain. The inhabitants are descendants of freed and escaped slaves of the Homr. There is a small colony of true Nubas at the south end of the mountain.

They used to be notorious for their success in raiding. They possess about 300 or 400 rifles. Cultivation insufficient for their own needs. Water supply poor. They begin to trade for grain in February with the Nubas of J. Moro, at Kororak.

Half company 12th Sudanese and Mamuria at Felaita.

(iv.) J. Errio to J. Talodi, viâ Tira El Akhdar, Tira Mandi and Kindirma (February, 1904).

J. Errio

— Road leads out S.W. for ½ mile, then west and through cultivation. Good going.

2½ 2½ A khor—rough broken ground.

1¾ 4¼ A broad shallow kohr.

2¾ 7 Khor 11 feet deep. Had to dismount.

¼ 7¼ Khor 10 feet deep. Dom palms.

3¾ 11 Slight descent to deep broad kohr, travel along it for 400 yards, and then climb out.

½ 11½ Beginning to ascend a ridge among rough rocky hills.

1¼ 12¾ Track leads over a smooth gravelly plateau for 1 mile.

1 13¾ Road descends to cultivation; rough stony going.

1 14¾ Track leads sharp to right down rocky side of hill into a grassy valley about 3 miles long.

½ 15¼ Cross broad sandy khor, with rivulet a yard wide in centre (February, 1904). Water disappears a mile further down. Dom palms.

Tira El Akhdar

½ 15¾ Good camping place under shady trees by stream. The Nuba village is situated on the hills to the west of the valley, which is only ½ mile wide.

They possess few rifles, but many spears and clubs. Population about 1,200, under Meks

(1) Shega.

(2) Amiri.

(3) Atuira.

(4) El Gamal.

(5) Ti.

They are greatly feared and hated by surrounding Jebels, owing to their raids. They are true Nuban, and wear no clothing. They own a lot of cattle and goats.

4 19¾ The track, rough and stony, leads S. along the edge of Western hills of the valley, and turns to the right (W.) over a slight rise, a “nek” or ridge, and runs through forest land. Going better. Gravel.

2½ 22¼ Track turns slightly N., and passes by a khor, banks 20 feet, breadth of all channels 100 yards, and then runs through thick forest. Good going.

7 29¼ Crosses a broad sandy khor 50 to 90 yards wide, and runs along W. bank half mile to Tiramandi camp. Village is two miles away to the S.W., on a spur of the hill.

Tiramandi

½ 29¾

Mek Nuwai; population, 700 Nubas. Very poor, and had been lately raided, very few cattle, but are clearing forest along W. bank of khor for cultivation. No rifles seen.

2 31¾ Track leads S.W. from camp, one mile to village, and then passes over low spur below village round S. of hill, direction S.W. Rough and stony, much cut up by small khors.

2 33¾ Gold is found here in the rainy season, the rain displacing rocks and stones on the ridge to the N. side of the road. The people search for it among the debris. They state that by hard work a man can get sufficient to pay his tribute (apparently not worth working).

1¼ 35 Road crosses a broad khor, and the hills on right of road trend away to the N.W.

Many small khors are crossed. Road bends round Southern end of a ridge at right angle to road.

4 39 Road crosses a broad sandy khor. Spur from J. Kindirma runs down on right to the khor. After crossing, road bends round to left (S.), along Eastern face of Kindirma.

Kindirma

1¾ 40¾ A valley in the Eastern face of a mountain down which a stream forms a succession of waterfalls and deep pools. 20 to 30 feet across, and six feet deep. A rough path leads up along the waterfall to the top of the ridge, some 400 or 500 feet, and on either side the mountain rises nearly sheer to a height of 110 feet. The Nubas live on top of the right or Northern side, and their village is approached by a precipitous path winding up the face of the cliff, and at times disappearing in clefts in the rocks, reappearing again 10 feet higher up.

On reaching the top of the ridge one finds oneself in a valley formed by the mountains which curve back outwards from either side of the waterfall and unite again three miles from the ridge, forming a bowl-shaped hollow, the stream flows along the bottom of this basin and falls over the ridge to the level of the main road outside Kindirma.

The Mek’s name is Gandal. The population is about 800 or 1,000. They have about 20 or 30 rifles. Lots of cultivation, both in the valley, inside the mountain, and down by the road below, but few cattle. Have suffered a good deal from raids.

Road leads due S. through thick bush towards small jebel, in direction of E. corner of Talodi. Good going.

1 41¾ Light forest.

2 43¾ Cross broad sandy khor.

J. Mavlul 2 45¾ A small jebel, known as J. Mavlul, about a mile long, is passed. Close to road on left a small village on the N.E. spur of Talodi. Good view of J. Eliri and all surrounding country.

6¼ 52

Talodi

1¼ 53¼ Corner of main jebel and village of Tebeldia on right in valley.

2¼ 55½ Felaita village entrance to valley. Mamuria and military post. Wells and water three feet from surface (February, 1904).

(v.) J. Talodi to J. Eliri.

The track leads straight out from the village of Felaita towards the centre of J. Eliri. First three miles good going through light bush.

3 3 Bush gets thicker. Cotton soil, bad going.

A hillock 4½ 7½ A small hill on the left is passed.

J. Abu Ghor 3 10½ Track leads S.E. round Jebel Abu Ghor, a small hill; better going.

4¼ 14¾ Thick bamboo clumps obstructing track for four miles.

7 21¾ Bad going. Cotton soil.

1½ 23¼ Good going. Light bush.

Tebeldia wells

1¼ 24½ Two small wells in depression in the ground, water two feet from surface, only sufficient for a dozen camels. Takes an hour to fill again.

El Egheibish

3½ 28 A string of five or six wells; sufficient water for 200 men and animals. Road hence much cut up by small khors. Lots of deleib palms.

Taira village (J. Eliri) 4 32 Small village at foot of mountain; population, about 800 revolted slaves of the Rowauga tribe of the Hawazma Arabs; much water and cultivation; Sheikh Rizkalla, 20 rifles. Few cattle. Plenty of sheep and goats.

Road good from Taira through dura cultivation and light thorn bush.

Tanguru

4 36 A large village, population about 1,100 revolted slaves of the Rowauga tribe of the Hawazma Arabs. Sheikhs Mohammed Geiga and Ismail Wad Umbaga. About 50 rifles.

Much water and cultivation, a stream falls from the cultivated plateau 700 feet above in the mountains and there are many wells besides. There is a rough track leading up the glen alongside the waterfall to the Nuba village on top (Sultan Bilula); population, 1,000 pure Nubas. No clothes at all, very few rifles, all spears and knobkerries, lots of dura, cattle and sheep. They hold little or no communication with the villages below; able to hold their own in case of raids.

Supplies sufficient for 500 men for 3 days. Road hence to Kurondo, a jebel to the S. Good road round jebel to Dallass.

Dallass

4½ 40½ Small village; population, about 600 revolted slaves of Abdul Ali tribe of the Hawazma Arabs. Sheikh Rizgalla Mursul. Twenty rifles, sufficient cultivation and water for own needs.

Lakolo

2 42½ Good road round jebel, but stony; could be easily improved. Large village; population, about 1,200 revolted slaves of the Khalifa tribe of Hawazma Arabs. Sheikhs Zaid Barsham and Abdalla Kaki.

Lots of water and cultivation. Road hence up spur of mountain to Nuba village on top. A solitary hill ½ mile S.E. of village. Was told the river was 1½ days’ journey due S., and that the people took 4 or 5 days more from there to Kodok by boats. Many cattle and goats. About 50 rifles.

(vi.) J. Eliri (Lakolo) to J. El Amira.

J. Eliri — ½ Pass hill on right.

1 1½ Cross khor.

2½ 4 Cotton soil and thick thorn trees—very bad going.

Village

2 6 Good going; road curves round jebel by rocks, and reaches village among deleib palms and tebeldi trees. Little cultivation and poor water supply; population, about 200, no arms; very poor. Remains of Nuba village on top. Was told the Nubas left the jebel and went S. to river to live in Dinka country a year ago. River said to be 1½ days’ journey due S. A few sheep and goats.

2¼ 8¼

Road hence to J. Kuronde, about 5 miles S.W.

(vii.) J. Eliri (Lakolo) to J. Werna.

Lakolo — —

— ½ Road runs E., cross khor which runs along right of road.

½ 1 Cross khor. Road runs between low parallel ridges of hills named Lohno. Rough and stony.

1 2 Road bends sharp to left.

Lohno

½ 2½ Village of Lohno, small, population about 200. Very little cultivation, bad water supply. Road now bends to right, crossing rocky ridge.

½ 3 Cross khor, bad going.

¼ 3¼ Cross big deep khor, and turn sharp to right.

¼ 3½ Recross big khor, road turns sharp to left.

½ 4 Cross another khor.

½ 4½ Going becomes better, road runs through forest land.

3¼ 7¾ Cross khor.

¼ 8 Cross khor.

1 9 Going becomes rough.

3½ 12½ Turns sharp to left to Nuba village of

Tekeim

½ 13 Tekeim, small village; population about 400; good water supply; little cultivation, very few cattle, but lots of goats.

1½ 14½ A cross road leads to the Tekeim dura fields.

½ 15 An “agaba.” Camels had to be led up; cross a khor other side of “agaba.”

1 16 Cross another khor, going becomes better.

1¾ 17¾ Cross a khor, track leaves hills, good going.

El Girid 1¼ 19 A cone-shaped peak amongst hills to right known as El Girid, about 3 miles off. Bush very open.

4 23 Bad going, cotton soil begins, a most dreary view.

4 27 Going better.

1 28 Small hill ½ mile to right.

2 30 Low hills ½ mile on left.

4 34 Cross khor.

Werna

1 35 Enter Werna hills, a group of five or six rocky hills about 300 to 400 feet high on smooth open ground.

Population about 1,100, mainly revolted slaves of the Khalifa tribe of Hawazma Arabs under Sheikh Abdul Naim. The original population was Nuba, but are now very much in the back ground. The real “Mek” is Abu Gabr Azaz. They have about 40 rifles.

Plenty of water and cultivation, few cattle, many goats. People trade to river at Kodok.

(viii.) J. Werna to Lukka, viâ J. Morung, J. Gedir and J. Kologi.

Werna — —

— 2 Road takes a wide curve out N. (to right) to avoid a swamp which exists all the year round. Good going until cotton soil, then bad going. Very open country.

Swamp 2¼ 4¼ Cross 100 yards of marshy ground (end of the swamp).

¾ 5 Cultivation for ½ mile, huge crops of dura.

½ 5½ Road turns to left over very bad cotton soil and through dense thorn trees.

3 8½ A big khor, water standing in pools 100 yards long and 4 feet deep. Duck of two kinds and lots of game. Roan antelope and tetel.

1½ 10 Firm ground; good going.

1 11 Cultivation as far as Morung.

Morung

2 13 Village on conical hill; population: Kawahla tribe of Hawazma Arabs, much mixed with Nubas. Sheikh: Hassan Wad Tieb.

Population about 1,000; 30 rifles. A fula supplies village with water until end of January; they then open wells. Good water supply. Plenty of cattle, sheep, goats and donkeys.

After leaving Morung for first 13½ miles going very good, through light bush and forest, perfectly flat; no hills.

13½ 26½ A khor, cotton soil and thorn bush begins.

1 27½ Good going again.

1½ 29 Cotton soil, and a big khor with pools of water, dry by end of February.

1½ 30½ A khor, bad going.

1 31½ Good going.

1 32½ Road bends to right, towards S.E. corner of Gedir, and runs along base to corner.

4 36½ Track runs round corner and bends sharp to left to village of Mek Bosh, of Gedir. Population about 1,200, about 60 rifles; fair water supply 10 feet from surface. Much dura cultivation. Population: Nubas. Plenty of cattle and sheep.

Gedir

½ 37

Two other villages, Semat and Gheibish, described on road to Kologi.

Road leaves Mek Bosh’s village and runs round another spur at E. end of jebel, passing the Mahdi’s rock where he used to preach to the people, and follows North-eastern face.

Semat

1 38 Small village of Semat, about 200 people.

1½ 39½ Track enters gorge, rough, stony going—between main jebel and a ridge of rocky hills running out N. to J. Girada, 4 miles off.

El Gheibish

1 40½ Road clears N. end of the mountain, and at the end of a spur is El Gheibish, a small village of about 400 population, 40 rifles; fair water supply, lying among dom palms. Road hence straight to J. Lukka.

1¼ 41¾ Another road leads over very bad cotton soil to a khor, light thorn bush, bad going, cotton soil.

2½ 44¼ Firm ground and good going through light forest, passing one village at 11 miles, and reach main village of Kologi, lying among dom palms under the hill.

4¾ 49

Kologi villages

— — Population of the two villages, about 1,500. They are sedentary Arabs (much crossed by Nubas) of the Kawahla tribe of the Hawazma Arabs. Sheikhs Gadum Hassib El Nebi and Akhman Fadlalla.

No arms to speak of; quiet people; do not raid. Fair water supply from wells; water eight feet from surface. Much dura cultivation. Many cattle, sheep and goats.

Road leads out due N. towards J. Lukka.

K. Harrug ¾ 49¾ The khor Harrug; no obstacle.

½ 50¼ Cross a ridge; rough stony going. Road leads straight towards Lukka between small rocky hills.

3¾ 54 Road turns to right to get round Eastern spurs of J. Lukka, through thick thorn bush, and across broken stony ground and small khors and ridges, and bending round to left enters a valley and the village of Lukka.

Lukka

2¼ 56¼ Kawahla Arabs, with a cross of Nuba; Sheikh Janga Rahma. A large village of 1,000 people; no rifles to speak of. Quiet people; do not raid. Much dura cultivation. Water supply bad at camping place and insufficient for 50 men and animals. Good clear water is obtained about 600 feet up the mountain, where the Nuba colony get their water. Good camping ground. Shade. Plenty of supplies, cattle, sheep, and goats.

(ix.) J. Talodi to J. Kadugli, viâ Kororak, Um Dorein (in J. Moro), Homra and Sema.

Talodi (Felaita) — — Road leads S.W. along face of mountain, through the villages of Felaita, and turns W., following Southern and South-western face along the base of the hills.

— 2

J. Burham is seen 8 or 10 miles off to the W., and J. Krongo a long way off to the W.S.W.

5 7 Here the road leaves the mountain and strikes off across the plain in a W.N.W. direction over cotton soil to a swamp, water one foot from surface (February, 1904).

Swamp

½ 7½

2 9½ Firm, good going.

5 14½ A small rocky wooded hillock on right of road.

Kororak 6 20½ The road, skirting N.E. corner of Durham, leads straight to Kororak, a Nuba village in J. Moro. The village is high up on the face of the cliff. Population, about 1,500. The various Meks’ names are:—

(1) Tambura.

(2) Toto El Azrak.

(3) Toto Agari.

Plenty of dura, very few cattle or sheep; no rifles.

People of Talodi come here to buy grain.

Mountains of Digig and Masakin to south. Road follows base of hills at Kororak for 1 mile, and then strikes off West across rough gravelly soil and thorn bush.

2 22½ Cotton soil and thick thorn bush.

1 23½ Firm ground and light bush.

Dorein

3½ 27 Road strikes the hills again at Um Dorein. Very small Nuba village on spur on left of road; small hill on right. Meks’ names are:—

(1) Toto El Ahmah;

(2) Abu Falang.

Road passes over ridge, still going West over a small cultivated plain, with hills ½ mile away to left and ¾ mile on right.

½ 27½ Small rocky ridge in front. Best road leads to the left and then turns sharp to right round the ridge and over broken rocky ground.

1 28½ Track descends on to very bad broken cotton soil. Impassable swamp in rains for animals.

Well

1¼ 29¾ Track strikes mountain again. Well (water 2 feet from surface) on side of road after leaving the swamp.

2 31¾ Road runs West along south face of hill and at 2 miles turns half right. Good going.

1 32¾ Road leaves J. Moro and strikes off W.N.W. across plain through light bush; very good going to

Homra

4½ 37¼ Large Arab village, population 1,200. Great number of cattle, sheep, and goats. Wells, water 8 feet from surface.

K. Meshisha 1½ 38¾ Cross big Khor Meshisha, 40 yards across, 5 feet deep.

1½ 40¼ More Arab encampments, inhabited in rainy season, but deserted now (March, 1904).

1 41¼ Cross deep khor, 8 feet, 8 yards wide. Alternate cotton soil and fair going through thick thorn bush to

3½ 44¾ A khor known at Sema and Kadugli as the “Wadi.” A small hill on right; cotton soil.

5 49¾ Alternate good and bad going through thorn bush.

½ 50¼ A shallow khor; light bush.

Sema 1½ 51¾ Village of Sema, open stony country at foot of hills; population about 300. Mek Guru.

Three or four wells. Water 15 feet; bad supply; only sufficient for five or six men and animals at a time.

From here road turns N.W. and follows base of hills over stony ground.

1 52¾ Rough going; pass small rocky hill on right; a good deal of thorn bush.

2 54¾ Track becomes clearer and leads over cotton soil past the wells in a khor to

Kadugli

1 55¾ Kadugli (Arab encampment), a few tukls against the S.W. end of a ridge of small hills. Kadugli Nuba village is 1 mile due E. on the main range called Ghuhub.

The Mek is Rahal Andal, an energetic and trustworthy man. Has great influence for 50 miles round.

The Sudanese infantry barracks, ½ company, are just beyond the encampment, and the garrison has opened several wells of excellent clear water 6 feet from surface.

Supplies unlimited from Kadugli. Population of village about 1,200. They have about 50 rifles.

[28] Между Джебель-Коном и Тайарой сейчас есть более прямая дорога через Ясин (У. Ллойд, 1903 г.), но говорят, что воды там очень мало (Мор, 1904 г.).

[29] Лучше ехать к Бир-эль-Вуз, к северу от Джебель-Ум-Дурраг. — Г. Г. С. М.

[30] Есть. — Г. Г. С. М.

[31] В октябре 1900 г. капитан У. Ллойд обнаружил несколько луж воды диаметром от 20 до 30 футов и глубиной 4 фута; вероятно, дождевая вода.

[32]There is a more direct road from Dilling to J. Gulfan, 26 miles.

[33] Есть верхняя дорога, которая вообще не пересекает хор Абу-Хабл. Расстояние по ней примерно такое же, и она более пригодна для использования в сезон дождей. Она проходит к западу от Х. Гад-эль-Керима.

ГЛАВА IX.

(СЕВЕРО-ЗАПАДНЫЙ СУДАН.)

106. — ОТ СЕЛИМЫ ДО НИЛА НАПРОТИВ КОШИ.

Капитан Г. Ходжсон, февраль 1903 г.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Selima — — Track to river bears at first at 152°, and after ascending out of valley turns, and, bearing to point on road 3 miles away, where the trees of Selima are last sighted, is 118° (Magnetic). On top of rise, 6 miles out from well, a pair of hills are sighted on horizon, at bearing of 124° (Magnetic), which are close to the track and about half way to river. These twin hills of conical shape must not be confused with another pair lying about 80° or 90°. Track diverges northwards slightly, and runs at bearing of 119° to a conspicuous and isolated peak; best route lies close to the N. of this peak. Country flat; a sandy plain, with few land marks.

First halt 38½ 38½ Halted after going 2 miles past twin peaks.

River Nile, opposite to Kosha 41 79½ The regular track to the river goes to Sagiet El Abd, and runs to S. of a mass of black rocky hills lying in the centre of a sandy plain. These hills are spoken of as Jebel El Tult. I marched to the N. of these hills, and struck the river opposite to Ginnis, the land mark being the hill marked Jebel Hamra on Kosha sheet. General direction 112°. Jebel Abri is, I am told, the mountain to march on when going to Sagiet El Abd.

107. — ОТ ДЕНГОЛЫ ДО ЛАГИЯ-ЭЛЬ-КЕБИРА (ДОРОГА АРБАИН).

Капитан Г. Ходжсон, с 16 по 31 декабря 1901 г.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Dongola — — From Dongola the route lies nearly due W. to Um Hellal; the chief landmark is Jebel Nosab. After leaving Nosab there is a bad bit of going, entailing about ½ hour’s walking, descending into valley containing the wells. Camels can trot the rest of the way.

Um Hellal Well

20 20 Is good sweet water; the water lies about 9 feet from the surface; plenty of grazing for camels. About seven families live here through the winter, and it is possible to get goat’s milk and a few eggs and dates. A ruined fort, probably 100 years old, with a well in the yard (water 12 feet from surface) is about ¾ mile away; it is called El Gab, and the whole oasis seems to take its name from it. Um Hellal is also called Gab El Tahtani.

El Sawani

3 23 El Sawani has three wells close together. A number of sunt trees give very good shade. There are more date palms and it is a better camping-ground than either Shemsi or Um Hellal. Water is good, and about 10 feet from the surface; the wells are in constant use. About eleven families live here through the winter, considerably more during the summer.

Gawit

— — Water reported near surface and easily obtained; good browsing, very little shade; all dom palms burnt by dervishes.

Shemsi

10 33 Water near surface, in clay soil and plentiful; one pan sufficient for my party (twenty camels and eighteen men) taking water for 4 days. Two or three good shady clumps of trees and plenty of browsing for camels. It would be difficult to pitch tents owing to deep sand. The landmark for Shemsi is Jebel Bowarib, which is a double hill of two small peaks of black volcanic rock, standing solitary about 3 miles N.W.

Butta

— — I did not visit the well, as all the guides agreed the water was brackish and bad; the landmark from Shemsi is a low round hill, thus, nearly covered with yellow sand, distinctive, as surrounding hills are peaked and black rocky hills. There are apparently about five hills surrounding the water pans, each called Jebel Butta.

Jebel Fantoria 9 42 About 12 miles N.W. from Shemsi; stands out well, and can be seen at a long distance. Charles Neufeld was captured by the dervishes close to this hill.

Jebel Abiad 56 98 Between Selem (18½ miles from Shemsi), where there are some bushes, and Lagia there is nothing for camels to feed on, and forage must be carried. I did not see the track of any living thing, either when going or on return. There are no special names for any hills except Jebel Abiad, the N. end of a chalk range, which ends in an abrupt cliff and can be seen at a long distance.

El Gir 36 134 There was reported to be water last year. We dug a well to depth of 7 feet, without result. The Arabs state the country is more dried up this year than it has been since the date of the battle of Toski.

Lagia Amran

19½ 153½ Lagia the Less, also called Lagia Amran, from the colour of the ground, lies in a plain about 8 miles long by 5 miles wide, surrounded entirely by rocky hills; there are only two entrances through encircling hills that are easy marching. Water lies within a foot of the surface, and is very plentiful. Ground consists of red clay with drifts of sand; the Arabs say there was formerly no sand, and that during last few years it is gradually covering ground, probably owing to dry seasons.

My party dug a water pan out of the clay (3½ feet deep and 12 feet circumference). It was quite full of good water, with a certain amount of clay in solution, which settled on standing, on our return 2 days later. Without this pan there was a plentiful supply of water from older diggings which the camel-men cleared of sand. There are some bushes and small trees, about ½ mile from the water, which afford feeding for camels. We also found water about ½ mile to S.W. of old water holes.

Lagia Kebir

12½ 166 Or Lagia Agar. Some five or six pans of water; good and near the surface, springing from similar soil to Lagia the Less, but not so abundant. We dug for water in three likely places, about ¼ mile to the W., without result. The wells lie in an open plain; no vegetation near, except about six to ten small trees about 3½ miles to W. giving a little feeding for camels. To the N. the plain is shut in by a steep rocky ridge of hills, and the road to Selima Wells lies across it; on reaching summit of ridge there is only a stretch of rock and stones to be seen. Arabs state it is the road to Selima, and there is no grazing. To the S., the road to Sultan Well (the place where Natron is found) lies across an open plain, and is easy going. The tracks spread considerably and extend across a width of over a mile.

An oasis, called Tura, is reported to lie 4 days’ journey in a S.W. direction, containing date trees, which is visited at date harvest time by the Bedai tribe. Sheikh Fadl El Mula is the only one of the party who had been there, and he said the water is very bad. Except for the above, the guides say they have no knowledge of any water to the W. of Lagia, and that there is no road with a direction of N. and S. lying to the W. of Lagia.

108. — ОТ ДЕНГОЛЫ ДО БИР-СУЛТАНА (ДОРОГА АРБАИН).

Капитан Г. Ходжсон, февраль 1903 г.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Dongola, or Gharbi Dongola — — After half an hour’s marching, reached buildings of former District, which stand 1 mile from mosque on E. bank by range-finder, and at an angle of 78° (magnetic). Left at 9 a.m. Going easy over hard sand. Marched parallel with river until near Kheleiwa as marked on map (Debba Sheet 45, E.), then turned W. and marched about 2 hours to well.

At Kheleiwa on river there are old ruins. A legend has it that there is an underground passage from these ruins to the well in the desert to the W.

Kheleiwa Well (1st halt) 19¾ 19¾ Kheleiwa well stands in the centre of a mound covered with broken burnt bricks; the first 6 or 8 feet from the surface is built with stone, then it is dug into solid rock; on lowering a candle to within 6 feet of the water, the sides disappear from view, and apparently there is a wide chamber at bottom of well; candle burnt freely, water 2½ feet deep, depth of well to water 96 feet.

Bir El Marghum (2nd halt) 32¼ 52 Marched at 2.30 a.m. The track is well defined, being the main road from Debba to Wad El Gab, and is easy going the whole way, direction about 330° (magnetic). About 24 miles from Kheleiwa Well ground begins to fall, and the Wadi El Gab may be said to begin.

El Marghum is the most southern well in El Gab and one of the deepest, being about 20 feet deep before reaching water, and is stone lined, water good, cool, and pleasant to drink, depth of water 3½ feet, and reported always plentiful. This well is said to be 6 hours from Khandak with an easy road. Near well are one or two good sayal trees and selem bushes, but no date palms.

Awene

— — Marched at 7.30 a.m., track from El Marghum to Um Hagar, direction 330°. After 1½ miles a track branches to Shoki at direction 295°. Sheikh Mohammed Awadalla, the head of the Gunganab, one of the largest of the Kababish sub-tribes, lives at Awene. The water of this well is about 8 feet from surface and luke warm, it lies about 6 miles from Marghum; there are a number of fine sayal trees about, as well as date and dom palms; good shade.

El Agari

— — This is a small well without stone facing, water cooler and pleasanter to drink than Awene, lies 1½ miles from latter. Surrounded by selem bushes.

Id Wad Medawi — — Dwelling of the former Sheikh of Gunganab, an old man, reported age 115 years, very feeble; a number of date trees near here, and track to Millan passes a number of tukls used during date harvest season.

Bir Millan

14 66 This well, about 14 miles from Marghum, is surrounded by about 20 big sayal trees giving good shade, there is also a lot of littel shrub on dunes near; it is impossible to approach well from S., owing to the shifting sand dunes; this well is practically the limit of the Wadi El Gab. Water good and plentiful.

From Millan track runs nearly due W., crossing a district called Imsinni, where a number of goats are grazed, being watered every third day at Millan.

Um Hagar (3rd Halt) 6½ 72½ A stone-lined well, at present filled with sand to within 6 feet of the mouth. Sand is damp and might easily be cleared. The Kababish do not use well for fear of the Bedaiat, who raided this well and Matassi in 1902. Good grazing for camels.

Matassi (4th halt) 9 81½ From Um Hagar track runs nearly due W., the going is indifferent; a little grazing on hadr on the way. Matassi lies in a plain some 5 or 6 square miles in extent; water is very plentiful and about 3 feet from surface; watered 70 or 80 camels from the four or five pans that were open with ease; the water is cool, pleasant to drink, and seems to have the property of cooling very rapidly after boiling. Kababish captured camels from Bedaiat here two years ago. A few wild date palms, but practically no shelter from sun or wind.

Murrat

5 86½ General direction W. Murrat, about 5 miles from Mutassi, is a low-lying plain, containing a few selem bushes, and three or four groups of date and dom palms; water easily found, but it is bitter and undrinkable; going fair; black rock predominates.

El Hofra 4½ 91 A plain encircled on E. and S. by a ridge, and on the N. by high sand dunes, some littel shrub, and a few dom palms. One dom palm which formerly had a well next it is now buried in a sand dune which has moved a ¼ of a mile in last 10 years. No shelter from N. wind or sun.

Sixth halt 23½ 114½ General direction 230° to 240°, going easy; about 12th or 13th mile from El Hofra found a few patches of grass, indicating rain here last season. About 17th mile going becomes more difficult and ground rises. At 20th mile a high conical (?) is reached, from which plateau of Jebel Abiad is to be seen; erected a pile of stones at this point. Ground then slopes down, and track lies through a depression until at 23rd mile a plain is reached, extending 17 miles to bluff of Jebel Abiad. Here there is some hadr grass, affording some grazing. The plain is scattered with lava-like stones.

Seventh halt (on plateau of J. Abiad) 32½ 147 General direction due W. to a ravine in Jebel Abiad. The J. Abiad is a steep bluff of gypsum, running from N. to S.; it is the same range as is skirted by track from Dongola to Lagia Wells. After ascending bluff direction is W.S.W., across a plateau with a very gentle slope down towards the W.; surface is shingle scattered with agates and flints. Could obtain no shelter to halt near.

Tundubi (8th halt) 24 171 About 1 hour after leaving last halt passed a rocky patch of ground, where the track is well defined, the only place where old lines of tracks are seen, being about 18 miles from bluff. About 28 miles from bluff crossed a valley containing gottab grass and some other grazing. At Tundubi a well had been opened recently, and my party, after deepening it to nearly 30 feet, were able to water about six camels and fill up skins. Latest report is that the well has been filled in maliciously. There is abundance of gottab, hadr, and akol, giving good grazing, also some fine tundub trees and selem bushes. A quantity of senna also grows here.

Ninth halt 27 198 General direction W.S.W. (at 250° by P. compass), very easy undulating country.

Tenth halt 12½ 210½ About 31 miles from Tundubi met a caravan, on descending into a valley, along which the track lies. Easy going. No shelter. Saw ostrich tracks.

Eleventh halt 28½ 239 Easy going all day; general direction W. Jebel Raya is seen some 10 miles away to the S.; it lies on the road from El Ain to Bir Sultan. Found a good place to halt, with a few tundub trees and some hadr scrub.

Twelfth halt 23 262 Same general direction W. After 3 miles descended into a deep sandy khor, containing some hadr scrub (difficult going), marched along it for an hour in direction 250°; then crossed a rocky ridge for 10 miles, then an open plain of shingle for 5 miles, and down another khor of deep sand with clumps of hadr scrub in it, direction 260°. Then direction changed constantly to avoid conical hills. Halted on rocky ground.

Milani

— — Two hours’ easy marching and then 2 hours across an exposed plateau of rocky ground, before reaching a steep descent down to Milani; a thick clump of selem trees in the Natron valley. At Milani water is apparently very plentiful, the sand between the dunes being wet and brown. Did not try to obtain water, as, though drinkable, it is reported not to be so good as the water found at Sultan, 3 miles away.

Bir Sultan

— — Sultan, a low-lying area of about a ¼ mile square of uneven ground covered with tussocks of halfa grass. Water easily obtained and plentiful. I found two or three pans open, at which animals can get to the water themselves. There are five or six date palms, also grasses such as tamam, halfa, taklis, but no shrubs, at Sultan. It lies nearly due S. of J. Kashaf.

Natron diggings (13th halt) 21 283 The best natron bed lies about 2 miles away from the water at Sultan by the shortest and most direct route to the river, it is probably not more than 250 miles instead of the 283 I travelled. The diggings have the appearance of a sandy salt pan, from which sea water has run off, the sand being encrusted with a white salt-like substance. To obtain the natron the upper surface of sand, about 2 inches to 4 inches, is cleared away, until the natron, a substance resembling rock salt, is reached. The top part is usually bad, being half sand; then there is a seam of ½ inch to 2 inches of good natron, again below a little bad natron, and below all sand again. Sometimes all the natron is spoilt by being mixed with sand. The whole place is scattered with scores and scores of oryx and addax horns, which seem to have been the tool, since time immemorial, with which to dig out the natron.

Jebel Kashaf — — Jebel Kashaf lies 2,400 yards from the natron diggings, and E. of them at direction 133°; it is a high conical hill centrally situated in the northern part of the valley, and from its summit the whole valley and various halting places are overlooked. To the S. and S.W. is a level plain, reaching to the horizon without landmarks.

The Arbain road runs S.S.W. apparently, to a place called Domi (1 day), where there are a few dom palms, and then from there branches to Meidob and to Zaghawa, which latter is reported to be 5 or 6 days from Natron valley in a S.W. direction.

109. — ОТ ДЕББЫ ДО ЭЛЬ-ОБЕЙДА.

(Маршрут во время дождей).

Составлено из различных источников, апрель 1903 г.

(Расстояния лишь приблизительные).

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Debba — —

Um Belila

35 35 Hole in sandy bed of wadi, about 12 feet down to water’s edge. Excellent water and any quantity, amount depends on digging.

El Amra

43 78 Water good and plentiful, obtainable by digging in sandy bed of wadi. From here during the rains travellers go to Hobagi, where there is a hofra which contains no water in the dry season.

Hobagi

67 145

Haraza

60 205 Water good and plentiful from a spring at foot of jebel. From thence viâ Kajmar to El Obeid. Vide also route 81, Chap. VIII.

Примечание. — В сухой сезон торговцы не ездят через Хобаги, так как хофра там в это время пересыхает. Делается значительный крюк от Эль-Амры до Элая, оттуда до Хабисы, где много колодцев, а затем к колодцам Багбаг и Каджмар.

110. — ОТ ДЕББЫ ДО ОМДУРМАНА.

Майор Г. В. Рейвенскрофт, январь 1900 г.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Debba Camp — — On leaving camp, a southerly direction is taken over sandy ground, leaving Wadi El Melh on right.

J. Khattab 7 7 Hill on either side of track.

J. Kufri

3 10 Two wells on track, one in use, recently repaired by Government.

J. Birget El Merafib 11 21 Water about 55 feet from surface; no rope, so could not taste it. Six miles from left of track.

Open desert.

Kaser El Fokani 4 25 One old well called Atesh, closed for a long time. Well-marked track.

Khor Kaser 1 26 On right of track, 400 yards wide. After this the road runs in khor for 10 miles, as far as El Magari.

El Magari 10⅔ 36⅔

J. Nesub El Arda 8 44⅔ Range of hills 1½ miles from right of track. After this the hills gradually close in to right of track.

3⅓ 48 Track passes over low hills. Nesub El Arda 80 feet high. After ½ mile another small detached hill, similar to El Magari, and low hills on right, 400 yards from track.

Wadi Maleiga 2 50 Good grazing for camels.

Abu Sayal

4 54 Good water in small khor about 600 yards from right of track can be got for a distance of 150 yards by digging 8 feet to 10 feet from surface. One small green tree and usher bushes mark spot. Water at present plentiful, but guides state that in dry season supply becomes small. No people here.

J. Nesub El Gelud 1⅓ 55⅓ Range of hills 1,500 yards on right of track. No more hills on left.

Wadi Gelud

1⅔ 57 One well reported under hill, supply small in dry season, about 3 miles from right of track. Khor 500 yards wide. Good grazing for camels.

Ereishat 5⅔ 62⅔ Dry grass and a few bushes. In Gordon’s time there was a large shelter here for travellers and merchants.

J. Nesub El Shabra — — Three miles from right of track. A continuous range of low hills on right. Open country on left.

J. Abu Sideir 2⅔ 65⅓ Two miles from right of track. From here a track to El Boreiga winds off ½ mile right.

Khor Abu Sideir 3⅓ 66⅔ 1,000 yards wide; good grazing for camels. Range of black hills 3 miles from right of track. After 1⅓ miles track crosses another piece of Khor Abu Sideir and two other small khors, the hills on right being then 6 miles off; on left flat open country.

Wadi Umanagil 6 72⅔ After this low range of hills 600 yards from and parallel to track, a few flocks grazing here in Khor Boreiga. Good water in khor to be obtained for a distance by digging 10 feet from surface.

Abu Heglig (water) 2 74⅔

Khor 600 yards to 800 yards wide; good grazing; six wells in use here.

2 76⅔ Track passes through gap in spur running from two hills called Um Kheirit and El Wabri, 2 miles from right of track. J. El Minget (perhaps 30 miles distant) visible on left; salt is obtained from this mountain.

Khor Wabri

1⅓ 80 Hills 4 miles from right of track. Water in khor like a canal, 4 yards broad, and 4 feet 6 inches in depth. After this open desert; rain marks; no track.

2⅓ 82⅓ Small low sand hills on either side of the track. Going a little heavy for first time since leaving Debba.

Wadi Abu Hashim 5 87⅓ Broad khor; some grass and bushes; good going; open desert on both sides.

Dondib El Gedi 1 88⅓ Old halting place, a few bushes on either side of track. After heavy rains Arabs used to sow dura here.

Wadi Drais 1⅔ 90 Low hill 1½ miles long, 1 mile from left of track; well reported by guide under hill, spot marked by big tree; well not in use. This well is in Wadi Abu Usher.

Wadi Abu Usher 2⅓ 92⅓ Broad khor, dry grass and usher bushes. J. Abu Usher 1 mile from right of track; long black hill.

Khor Derail 2⅔ 95 Small khor; black rocks and hills on right of track.

Abu Inderab

2 97 One well in khor in a sort of cave 15 feet deep; water plentiful, very clear and sweet. Men have to descend into the cave to get water, which is 2½, feet deep; guide reports water plentiful here at all times of the year. Sides of cave hard sandy clay; diameter of cave at surface 6 feet, opening out as you go down. Khor 120 yards wide. Usher bushes and some grazing for camels. Range of black hills 200 feet to 300 feet high, 2½ miles from track on right and remaining parallel with it.

Khor El Kelab (Warrania) 3½ 100½ Broad khor, a lot of usher bushes, nearly all dying. J. El Kelab 3 miles from right of track, with low range of black hills between track and it. Track in khor for 1⅓ miles.

Khor El Kelab (Godamia) 1⅓ 101⅚ Joins Khor El Kelab (Warrania), and the two khors then run east on left of track. Jebel El Kelab a continuous range 4 miles long, and 2 miles to 3 miles from right of track.

3⅔ 105½ Beginning of J. Gumr 1 mile from right of track. Going sandy and good; tufts of dry grass.

Wadi Gumr (water) 2⅔ 108⅙ To east of track, in khor, good place for sowing dura after heavy rains. Excellent grazing about 3 miles west of track; water very near surface and can always be got in khor by digging. A few Arabs here. Range of hills, J. Gumr, 1½ miles from right of track.

J. Maagil Gumr 3 111⅙ One thousand yards from left of track, with low spur running down to track, and another running parallel with road for 1½ miles.

1 112⅙ Low hill on right, close to track, ½ mile long.

⅔ 112⅚ Continuous range of hills on right 3 miles off. A gap opposite here, 300 yards long, called Feg Gumr. J. Wad El Melih begins after Feg Wadi Gumr. Wadi Gumr runs under range parallel to it.

Um Aragib 1⅓ 114⅙ On left of track; bushes, black stones; good going on ten to twelve camel tracks. Hill on right 5 miles distant.

J. Maagil Wad El Melih 3⅓ 117½ Small hill 300 yards from right of track, with prominent point 60 feet high.

Khor Wad El Melih 1½ 119 Many dead usher bushes.

1½ 120½ On right, range of hills, after being 10 miles distant, comes in to within ½ mile of track, and from here runs parallel with it.

2 122½ End of J. Wad El Melih 1½ miles from right of track, after this J. El Shab.

Khor El Shab 3⅓ 125⅚ El Shab 2½ miles from right of track; good going.

Khor Abu Usher 3 128⅚ Small khor; dying osier bushes, some grazing. Hills on right, 6 miles off. Khor on right winding from S. crosses track here.

Well on right of road, no water, only in rainy season.

Khor Abuera 4 132⅚ Running from J. Abuera about 10 miles on right, khor finishes here, none on left of track. Excellent going, well marked track, rain marks, flat open country, nothing in sight.

Khor Bohat 7⅔ 140½ Small khor, some bushes. J. Bohat 10 miles on right.

Gedemtina 3 143½ Old halting place. A few bushes, hard, sandy.

4⅓ 147⅚ Wadi Gabra on left, about 3 miles off; this khor stretches to Korti.

Wadi Medeisis 1⅔ 149½ From hill on right joins Wadi Gabra, 2 miles from left of track.

Gabra Wells

6⅓ 155⅚ Four wells, water always plentiful, very sweet and clear, 55 feet from surface; many flocks and some cows water here; wells in open space in middle of thick trees, with zeriba for flocks.

Before arriving at wells track for 4 miles through trees, mostly sunt, and nearly all dying; plenty of dry wood. Dervish zeriba S. of wells with Yunis’ house in centre and tukls of the Jehadia round it.

2 157⅚ Up to here marked track, after this only visible at places owing to sand covering footprints on hard ground; uneven, but going good; bushes and grass everywhere; good grazing; gazelle.

Gerguf 3 160⅚

Goz Abu Dluet 5⅓ 166⅙ Excellent dry grass and bushes for camel grazing.

El Hanakat 4 170⅙ Low spur on either side of track, which is more distinct here and in a sort of khor 80 yards wide full of green bushes.

El Shegeig 2⅔ 172⅚ About 1 mile on left of track; thick trees.

Id Anal 4⅓ 177⅙ Sandy; trees and grass; ground slightly undulating.

Khor Id Anal 3⅓ 180½ Very narrow khor; rain marks; sandy going.

Gala Fashfos 8⅓ 188⅚ Main peak of Omdurman mountain in sight (Abu Leidat).

2 190⅚ Small round hill (El Gesi) on left, 3 miles off.

El Hafir 1⅓ 192⅙ J. El Magrun on left.

El Auti 7⅓ 199½ J. Abu Leidat on left.

El Adara 1 200½

1 201½ Track goes between Merkhiat Hills.

J. Nesub El Merkhiat 1 202½ One isolated hill 1,000 yards from left of track.

Merkhiat Hills on right.

1⅓ 204⅙ Track passes through gap in Nesub El Merkhiat, one hill on left close to path, on right hills come down close to track.

2⅔ 206⅚ Rifle ranges 1,200 yards on right. Going sandy, heavier than during any other part of route.

Omdurman 1⅔ 208½ Beginning of houses.

Примечание. — На этой дороге есть только четыре места, на которые можно положиться в отношении воды в любое время года, а именно: Вабри, Абу-Индераб, Гумр и Габра.

111. — ОТ ДЕББЫ ДО ОМДУРМАНА ЧЕРЕЗ ЭЛАЙ.

Составлено из различных источников, апрель 1903 г.

Примечание. Это не прямая дорога, но воду можно найти чаще. Расстояния лишь приблизительные.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Debba — —

Um Belila

35 35 Water plentiful. Three wells, 12 feet deep (James, 1902).

El Amri

43 78 Water plentiful (native information only).

Abu Tawagia

25 103 One well, 8 feet deep; good water (James, 1902).

Elai

18 121 Water, scarce in dry season, from two stone-lined wells (Currie, 1903). From here, shortest way is to Gambar, but road stony and bad, and merchants generally go to Gumr (25 miles). Vide Route 110.

Gambar

37 158 Wells, water (?) (native information only).

Gabra

24 182 Water plentiful, from many wells.

Omdurman 56 238

112. — ОТ АМБУГОЛА ИЛИ КОРТИ ДО МЕТЕММЫ.

Из отчетов г-на Фаулера, 1871 г., и многочисленных офицеров Нильской экспедиции, 1885 г.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Ambugol — — Possesses abundant indications, in the remains of an ancient masonry pier and in the considerable ruins in the town, of having been formerly of much greater importance. It was selected as the point at which the projected Sudan railway should leave the Nile, and strike across the Bayuda Desert.

Korti

— 4 From Ambugol the caravan route follows the bank of the river for a few miles to Korti, and then branches off into the desert in a westerly direction.

After about 25 miles, it strikes the Wadi Abu Gir and continues along it for many miles. Mr. Fowler states that the water is to be procured by sinking wells along the course of this wadi, and that its bed for its entire length is filled with all the vegetation of the Bayuda Desert—shrubs and grass, which are invaluable both as fuel, and as food for flocks.

Water reservoirs, in tins, were established in March, 1885, at hills 12 and 30 miles respectively from Korti, as the wells at Hambok and Haweiyat showed signs of giving out.

Hambok

47 51 Wells.

El Haweiyat

8 59 Wells. Yielding in February, 1885, 310 gallons daily, but decreasing. Three wells, 6 feet deep, open in February, 1897.

Near the mountain of El Mesalima, situated a little to the right of the track, there is an abundance of small timber.

In December, 1871, and January, 1872, water in pools was found in many of the ravines issuing from the Jebel Gilif range. The plain S. of this range has a good deal of scrub upon it, and is said to be flooded occasionaly during the rains to a depth of 3 feet to 4 feet.

Miljik — — Five miles E.S.E. of Haweiyat and 1½ miles from the track; reported to have a good supply of rainwater like Jakdul. Found to be dry, February, 1885.

Abu Alik

— — Four miles E.S.E. of Miljik. Good supply of water in wells 6 to 8 feet deep. Too far from track for practical use.

Zobrik El Kelb (Miglig) 14 73 A plainly defined hill of curious shape. One mile N. of it are the wells of Miglig (Megaga, or El Kelb). Natural reservoirs of rainwater. These are two pools situated up a narrow ravine. The lowest, containing 5,000 gallons, is fit for camels and horses. The upper pool, 100 yards beyond, contains over 100,000 gallons of pure clear water. Tanks full, February, 1897, but water unclean; tastes stagnant.

These estimates (14th February, 1885, by Colonel Todd, R.E.) were taken when the upper pool was 4 feet, and the lower 7 feet, below its high water level.

Abu Halfa

17 90 The wells of Abu Halfa, situated about 3½ miles N. of the camel track, consist of holes made in dry river bed. They vary in depth from 5 feet to 10 feet, and in diameter from 3 feet to 4 feet.

Some distance further up the Wadi Abu Halfa there is a large pool surrounded by dom palms, which is said never to be dry. Close by this pool is a conical black hill, surmounted by a natural breastwork; excellent landmark.

Water is to be found nearly everywhere in this wadi, a foot or two below the surface, and is visible in several places at the foot of rocks.

To a breadth of ½ mile on each side of river bed, acacia trees abound, and there is beautiful tabas grass; this, with the trees, forms the principal food of the flocks and herds—goats, camels, and cattle—belonging to the desert Arabs.

For about 6 miles after leaving Abu Halfa, the ground falls slightly, about half this distance being over a sandy desert, with sandstone rocks cropping up all round.

The ground then rises gently, and enters country wooded thickly with acacia, and covered with coarse grass.

On the W. stand isolated rocks of sandstone, and on the E. is seen the extension of the range from Abu Halfa, which vanishes with an abrupt turn eastward.

Jakdul

10 100 The wells of Jakdul, situated in one of the torrent gorges of Jebel Gilif, about 3 miles from the camel track, consist of three large water-worn cavities, each at a different level, and shut in by precipitous cliffs. The lowest of the pools forms an irregular oval in plan, about 120 feet long by 60 feet broad, and for three-fourths of its length it is enclosed between perpendicular rocks. Whether any labour has been expended in making these excavations it is impossible to say, but it is evident that the cavities have been mainly produced by the torrents rushing through a small passage about 8 feet above the highest water level, and thus wearing away the softer portions of the rock to a considerable depth below the ground level.

These reservoirs contain always sufficient water for two years’ supply of the existing demand, and are never dry. The lowest well is daily visited by large numbers of animals, and the water is consequently unfit for any other use. The second pool, about 10 feet above the first one, lies in the bottom of an almost inaccessible channel, the sides of the gorge rising in some places nearly perpendicularly to a height of about 80 feet from the water.

The approximate length of this pool is 200 feet, and its width is 40 feet. The quality of the water is excellent, and from this and the upper pool the skins used to carry drinking water are filled, a cord and bucket being employed to raise the water. The third pool is about 5 feet higher than the second, and lies in a direction at right angles to it. Its size is about 80 feet by 15 feet.

A very tortuous and contracted channel, about 20 feet long, and 3 feet wide at the bottom, forms the connection between the second and the lowest pool. Above this the gorge widens out, and by the construction of a dam, a fine reservoir and ample water supply might be obtained.

These wells, forming the chief water supply on the Korti—Metemma route, were found ample for the requirements of the Desert Column, 2nd January to 15th March, 1885, but would not have lasted another fortnight.

About 1 mile up the ravine, above the wells, are two more reservoirs, each holding (January, 1885) about the same as the middle Jakdul reservoir. They were not used in 1885. Numerous gazelle.

After leaving Jakdul, the country for a few miles is entirely devoid of vegetation, but further on it is for the most part covered with a sandy deposit, producing tabas grass and acacia.

El Fura

— — Eight or nine miles east of the wells of Jakdul, and some miles from the caravan track, are the wells El Fura. They consist of a number of holes, 3 or 4 feet in diameter, and a few feet in depth, and are sunk in the usual manner in the channel of a large river bed—Fura. They are rudely excavated and are unlined, their falling in, therefore, is a matter of frequent occurrence, and these accidents are repaired by the excavation of new holes. A basin with puddled sides is formed on the surface for the use of animals. During the rainy season the holes are rapidly filled with deposit, and they have then to be re-made. On the other hand, in the dry season, the wells are gradually deepened, as the water level falls through use, absorption, and evaporation. Cattle, sheep, and goats are driven here in large numbers. It is the custom during the hot season to water the sheep and goats once every four days, and the cattle every other day. In the winter season they are driven to the wells every sixth and fourth day respectively. The water at these wells is good, and the supply generally plentiful. Only once within the 30 years preceding 1872[34] had they dried up, and then only after a continued drought of two years.