«Англо-Египетский Судан: Справочник. Том I»

„ „ 12 3 75

120

„ „ 13 4 79

127

„ „ 14 3 82

132

Discharge (1.4.01) 362 c.m. per sec. 10 92

148 The average level of the marshes, in March and April, 1901, was from 7 inches to 1 foot above the river water surface. Between mile 65 and Hellet-el-Nuer, the width of the river is very variable; in many places it is only 60 yards and in others as much as 150 yards. The general average may be taken as from 75 to 80 yards, and the mean velocity of the stream at 2 miles an hour, at low water. The depth ranges from 15 to 22 feet, but in places is as much as 28 feet. The sudd blocks 9 to 14 were met with between miles 65 and 82. At block 14, what may be termed the first series of sudd obstruction ended, and with its removal, in April, 1900, through navigation between Khartoum and Gondokoro was restored. The worst place in the river, in the way of giving trouble, was block No. 10, at mile 67.

2 deleib palms. (W.) 16 108 From this point land approaches the river on both banks, that to the east being less extensive.

3 deleib palms. (E.) 5 113

Trees 12 125 Trees 5 miles to east.

Hellet El Nuer 14 139

223 At mile 139 from Lake No, Hellet El Nuer (or Aliab Dok) is reached. It is rather a pretty landing-place with stretches of short turf; no huts or inhabitants. The latitude at this place is 8° 4′ 36″ North, and at this point the high land touches the west bank of the Jebel and stretches in a broad expanse to the horizon. The bank here is 3 feet above the water, but the land rises at a short distance from the river. This plain is evidently never swamped, even in flood. It is covered with a growth of deleib palms, Euphorbia, and bush. It commences at mile 131, and continues along the river as far as mile 144, with swampy intervals at the loops.

Captain Gage’s channel — — At Hellet El Nuer itself, a branch of some size takes off the Bahr El Jebel. This channel is not shown upon any existing maps, and was first mentioned by Captain Gage, of the 7th Dragoon Guards, in his report upon his journey through the sudd in the winter of 1899-1900. It has a width of 70 yards, of which 10 yards on either side are filled by the swamp grasses. Its average depth, at low water, is 3 feet, and its mean velocity is 2 feet per second. Its discharge, as measured in March, 1901, was 21·74 cubic metres per second. Captain Gage’s channel leaves the Bahr El Jebel at a right angle, but some 500 yards down-stream it turns in a north-westerly direction. Captain Gage followed its course for some 40 miles, but was then stopped by sudd. It seems not improbable that this channel forms a junction between the waters of the Bahr El Jebel and those of the River Naam, which discharges into the Bahr El Ghazal, through the Khor Deleib. A few miles down-stream its banks are lined by a succession of Nuer villages, and its width increases to 200 yards. It must carry a large quantity of water when in flood. At other periods of the year (January) it appears to flow into, not out of, the Bahr El Jebel.

North end[36] of false and true channels and block 15 4 143

230 Four miles further on the channel widens into a small lake, and from here[36] the true river is blocked by sudd for some 20 miles. This is termed block 15, and repeated efforts to clear it out (1901-02), owing to the total absence of current, resulted in failure. The expedition under Lieutenant Drury, 1903-04, very nearly succeeded in clearing the whole of the true channel. Both Lieutenant Drury and Sir W. Garstin later passed right through this block in 1904, the only remaining piece near the southern end of the block being fairly easily navigable. The true channel is from 16 to 20 feet deep, whilst the false channel to the west is only 4 feet to 6 feet in depth. One of the Dervish steamers, with boats containing ivory, was sunk in this part of the river, and was discovered by the 1903-04 expedition. At present navigation of the false channel is attended with considerable difficulty, and the services of a competent pilot are indispensable. The river is separated into many branches, and these cross and recross one another, forming a bewildering labyrinth of islands. At the south end of the small lake before mentioned, channels converge from all points of the compass. These are separated by low flats, covered with dense growth of papyrus.

Series of lakes 7 150 After steaming for some 7 or 8 miles through a wilderness of papyrus, a series of lakes is reached, at mile 150 from Lake No. Stiff current here. These lakes have a depth of about 4 feet at the deepest point, but shoal rapidly towards the shore. A feeble but distinct current passes through them to the north. Their breadth varies largely. Their shores are surrounded by high papyrus and their surfaces are dotted by countless small sudd islands. There are, however, indications on both sides that the high land is not very far distant. It has already been explained that the true channel, which lies to the east of these lakes, is said to skirt the dry land. On the west a line of fair-sized trees at a distance of, perhaps, 2 miles, shows that the swamps in that direction also have a limit. A very noticeable feature of these expanses of water is their lifelessness. No birds are to be seen, and hippopotami appear to avoid them altogether. At mile 163 the lakes end, and a fresh network of branching streams confront the navigator. Here, again, very careful steering and knowledge of the passage to be followed is required. Each year these channels change. What is, in one season, the deepest channel, is, perhaps, the next year impassable. For some 5 miles the river is split up into many different branches, all winding through papyrus swamp. At mile 165 the true channel of the river is reached. The change is startlingly sudden, as the depth suddenly increases from 4 to 21 feet. Instead of a twisting stream, the Bahr El Jebel again becomes a fine open river, some 80 to 90 yards in width, bounded by a high fringe of papyrus on either side. The false channel leaves the river at an angle of nearly 90 degrees. In April, 1900, the junction was blocked by sudd, but this was light and easily removed. Large shallow lagoons extend on either bank, separated from the river by a belt of papyrus. The high land to the west ends about a mile from the river, and the swamp recommences. To the east a line of palms, perhaps, 6 or 7 miles distant, not improbably indicates the banks of the Bahr El Zeraf. Above this point the Bahr El Jebel widens out for some distance. In places its breadth is as much as 200 yards, and its depth from 15 to 18 feet. The swamps continue as before. At mile 166 the high land approaches the river on the east, and runs parallel to it for some 2 miles. It is covered with bush and an occasional Euphorbia. At this point a khor joins the Nile on the west bank, bringing in a strong stream of water. Two villages (Nuer) are to be seen in the distance; these are probably Favor and Fatooah of the German map (Julius Perthes). The mean velocity now averages 1½ miles per hour. Between miles 175 and 200 the high land and bush before mentioned touches the eastern bank at intervals. At mile 187 there is a break in this ridge, and two or three channels leave the Nile to the east. These are said by the natives to be the most northerly outlets of the Bahr El Zeraf. In 1900 a fine deleib palm stood on the water’s edge at this point. This formed a landmark that could be seen for miles. It has now, unfortunately, fallen into the river. At mile 220, and again at mile 223, channels come in from the west bringing water to the Jebel. These streams may possibly be the mouths of the River Rodi, or Yei, which is supposed to join the Nile somewhere in this locality. At mile 225 the false channel, which, previous to the clearance of blocks 16 to 19, was the only navigable line, joins the river. This was the route followed by Major Peake and Lieut. Drury in 1900, in making the journey to the upper Nile. They found the passage very difficult. During the transit they bent their rudder twice, and went aground four times. From this point numerous channels join the Bahr El Jebel on both sides. Many islands, covered with ambach and papyrus, separate the stream into numerous branches, and the whole country is once more a waste of swamp. The Bahr El Jebel here is extremely narrow (25 to 30 yards), but is from 18 to 22 feet deep. The false channel in appearance far more resembles the main river than does the true one.

South end of true and false channels and of block 15 15 165

265

Land approaches east edge of channel 1 166

North channel to Bahr El Zeraf 21 187

301

Mouth of Yei (?) 33 220

North end old false channel 5 225

362

Ex block No. 16 18 243

391

„ „ 17 2 245

394

„ „ 18 ½ 245½

395

South end of block No. 18 3½ 249

401 It is hard to imagine that this narrow, twisting stream can be the Nile. Its windings are worse than ever. A tree or a boat may be visible at a comparatively short distance ahead, and yet many miles of channel must be traversed before it is reached. The river here runs nearly due west, while the false channel follows an easterly course, passing through numerous shallow lakes, until it joins the main river again at mile 249. At mile 240 the Jebel widens out again, and more resembles a river in appearance than it did. Its average breadth is from 50 to 60 yards, and its depth is some 15 feet. Between this point and mile 248 occurred the four sudd obstructions, removed in February, 1901, by Lieut. Drury, R.N., and which were known as blocks Nos. 16, 17, 18, and 19. At mile 249 the Bahr El Zeraf takes off from the Nile, following the false channel for some distance, before branching off to the east. The width of this river at the head is about 30 yards, and the outlet is surrounded by a sea of marsh. Just up-stream of this point there is a severe bend in the Nile, which might one day give trouble. As the steamer passes, decomposed sudd rises to the surface.

Bahr El Zeraf — 249

401

Shambe 7 256

412 The general character of the landscape now changes, as land and forest are visible to the west, and at mile 253 from Lake No, the Shambe lagoon or khor is reached. This is a large lake, some 3 to 5 miles in length, and more than 1½ miles in breadth. Its depth averages 4½ feet. The post of Ghaba Shambe is situated in north latitude 7° 6′ 30″, on the west bank of its lagoon, at a distance of 1½ miles from the river. The land here is about 2 feet over the water, but rises as the forest is reached. It is a dreary-looking spot, consisting of a mud-brick house inside a mud parapet, and a nuzl, and a few “tukls” erected on the flat shore of the lake; garrison of 25 men; a Dinka village lies not far off. Shambe is now the chief Nile post of the Bahr El Ghazal province, and from here proceeds the road inland to Rumbek (116 miles), &c. The river winds round the lake for some 8 miles, separated from it by a band of marsh, about 600 yards broad. Large quantities of hippopotami. To the east the swamp stretches for a long way; at miles 255 and 256 are two other outlets of the Zeraf River. The aspect of the landscape is extremely desolate, with papyrus-covered marshes stretching in all directions. The river itself alternates between long straight reaches or easy curves, and a series of sharp twists and bends, which form a regular maze through the swamps. The water surface is covered with masses of detached plants of the Pistia (or sword grass) stratiotes. The mean velocity is 2 miles per hour; the average depth is 15 feet; and the average width from 50 to 60 yards. For many miles the same dreary scenery prevails. The river recedes a long way from the western forest, and on both sides an expanse of reeds and water extends. The width of the swamped area here cannot be less than 30 miles.

Abu Kuka 37 293

471 At mile 293 Abu Kuka, north latitude 6° 54′, is reached. The papyrus swamp ceases just north of this point. Here the forest approaches the river, and the bank is dry. The thick bush comes down to the water edge, the trees being about 1,500 yards away. The village of this name is inland, and is not visible from the river.

Kanisa 11 304

489 At miles 300 and 304, the old and new wooding stations of Kanisa are respectively situated on the west bank. Kanisa or “Heiligen Kreuz,” north latitude 6° 46′, is the site of the Austrian Mission which was located here for many years. The church and buildings were situated on the eastern bank, only a foot or two above the water, but their traces are no longer visible. A large fruit garden formerly existed on the west bank, but only two large shady trees are still alive. This Mission was abandoned in 1864 or 1865, on account of the deadly effects of the climate. The only inhabitants now are a few Dinka. The forest is very thick and consists of Sidr, other acacias, and a few Euphorbia. This forest is continuous as far as the banks of the Rohl, some 60 miles to the west.

Immediately up-stream of Kanisa, the river wanders away into the swamps as before. From this point, to mile 343, there is little to describe. The banks on both sides are very flat and rarely more than 2 feet above low water level. The papyrus now practically ends. Occasional clumps are to be seen, but nowhere in continuous masses. Tamarisk is common. The spills from the river into the marshes are very numerous, more particularly on the east bank. A line of trees on the eastern horizon, some 7 to 10 miles away, appears to mark the limits of the swamp. It is easy to see how the Bahr El Zeraf marshes are formed. At every few hundred yards the river spills into them. These spill channels are deeply cut, with vertical sides, as if dug by hand, and the amount of water discharged by them in flood must be very great. In size they vary considerably. Their average breadth is from 3 to 5 yards, but some are as much as 16 yards wide. Between miles 303 and 379, 129 spills were counted, of which 97 were on the east bank. Probably many more escaped observation.[37]

Lake Powendael 40 344

553 At mile 344 the large lagoon, known as Lake Powendael, commences on the west. The river circuits this lake for 4 or 5 miles, separated from it by a belt of swamp, varying in width from a few hundred to 2,000 yards. Lake Powendael is in many places as much as 3,000 yards in breadth, but is very shallow. Its surface is dotted with many small islands, and it is connected with the river by several inlets. Hippopotami are abundant in these parts. Both banks are now very low and flat, about 10 inches over the water. The reach of the river between Bor and Kanisa is unendurably desolate and monotonous, wandering through continual swamp for some 100 miles. At mile 360 another large lake is met with, also on the west. This sheet of water must be quite 4 miles in breadth, and the river winds round it for a long distance in a series of very sharp curves. Many natives are to be seen fishing here.

At mile 374 a welcome change appears, as a limit is at last visible to the eastern swamps, which are practically continuous from Lake No to this point. A line of villages (Dinka) stands 2 miles from the river, and behind them lies the forest. A little further up-stream these villages approach nearer, until at last, at mile 380 from Lake No, the high land on the east comes down to the river.

Bor[38] 40 384

617 Bor, north latitude 6° 12′ 46″, is a collection of Dinka villages which stretch northwards (outside the swamp) almost to the Bahr El Zeraf. The forest here stands back from the river on the east bank, but the high bank comes close to the water, except where a large backwater or lagoon passes through it for some 2,000 yards. Gordon mentioned this place as an inconvenient wooding station, but it is very handy now. A few tall deleib palms stand out as land marks. The houses of Bor are neither large nor important, but like in all Dinka villages they are well-kept, neat, and clean. The huts are circular in shape. They are plastered with mud and have conical thatched roofs. Each has a small door through which the inmates crawl. The people show no signs of shyness and appear comfortable and contented. They possess large herds of cattle. At mile 384 the river runs close under the high bank, hugging it for some distance. The land here is from 6 to 8 feet over the water, and is, of course, never flooded. The forest consists of thick bush, with a few large trees; a distinctive feature is the thicket of small deleib palms which cover the ground. Not one in 500 of these young palms appears to develop into a tree, but they form an extremely dense undergrowth. The Bahr El Jebel is now a fine stream, 80 to 90 yards wide, with a strong current. On the west the marshes stretch into space. The valley here must be quite 20 miles across.

Dervish Deim 6 390

626 South of Bor, the sudd, properly so-called, disappears. The marshes are formed of a deeper layer of sand, covered with a thin surface of clay, and with streaks of clay running through them. These swamps, except in the centre of the valley, are, as a rule, well over summer water-level, and the loss of water can be as nothing compared with that north of Bor. The vegetation, too, is of a different kind, being chiefly grass, and though dense enough, is not composed of those reeds which require to have their roots under water for a great portion of the year. At mile 390 the Dervish “Deim” is visible, situated on the east bank. This is the place held for so long by the Emir Arabi Dafaalla. The spot is well chosen for defence, as the river sweeps round it on two sides. The bank all round has been cleared of bush for a long way. The “Deim” is surrounded by a mud wall forming a rectangle, of which the river forms one side. The inclosure is some 400 yards deep by 700 yards in length. The mud bank, fast disappearing, is about 4 feet 6 inches high, with an outer ditch 3 feet deep by 4 feet wide. At the corners are small watch towers, and in other places remains of loopholed houses. The Bahr El Jebel now, for many miles runs close to the east bank. It winds continually, and there are occasional loops of swamp, but as a whole it follows the high land closely.

Bor (military post) 8 398 Small military post, furnished from Mongalla. Formerly a wood station, now much cut up. Large numbers of elephants. This is to be the site of the Headquarters of the new Administrative District of Bor.

In places the bank is perpendicular down to the water’s edge, and from 6 to 8 feet high. At such points there is always great erosion. The scenery more resembles that of the Blue Nile than the White. The forest close to the river, the high banks, the profusion of creepers and undergrowth, the boils and eddies of the river along these curves, combine to form a picturesque scene, utterly different from that usually met with on the White Nile. About 22 miles south of the Deim the Dinka inhabitants are replaced by those of the Bari tribe. The difference is at once apparent. The “tukls” are untidy, crowded together, and badly built. The people seem poor and possess few cattle. They live chiefly by fishing; in April the whole population is engaged in preparing the land for cultivation, if the river allows, chiefly on the west bank. At mile 404 the river bifurcates, one channel branching off to the west, while the other, and the deeper, follows the eastern bank. These two channels reunite at mile 422. The width of the island between them is not very great, being rarely more than 800 to 1,000 yards. The west bank is now a flat grass plain, marked by swampy depressions. The river must top this in flood, but not to any depth, as the marks show that the total rise cannot exceed 4 feet. The west bank is inhabited by the Aliab tribe, a sort of cross between Baris and Dinkas, but they consider themselves quite distinct. The solitary mass known as Jebel Lado is now first visible on the south-west horizon. The river above the junction of the two channels averages 80 yards in width and 11 feet in depth. The bends and twists are never-ending, and there is hardly a straight reach in its whole length. The banks are very sandy, as are the flats which show up above the water. Occasional small islands separate the channel into two or more branches.

Tree disappeared[39] 33 431

694 There is now a decided ridge on either side of the main channel resembling that described in the White Nile. East and west of this ridge the level of the flats is lower, and in the depressions lagoons are formed and winding channels wander. The average width of the valley here cannot be more than from 5 to 7 miles. On either bank the forest line marks the high ground. On the narrow ridges above described are located a few groups of Bari huts surrounded by fields of dura. The high ground does not average more than 100 to 200 yards in width. At mile 431 a magnificent tree used to be situated on the eastern shore. It made a striking landmark, but disappeared in 1902.[39] The forest rises rapidly from the water, and at its highest point is quite 20 feet above summer level. One-and-a-half miles up stream, the river, which has followed the eastern bank for so long, now winds across in a westerly direction. In thus crossing the swamps, an excellent idea of the general section of the valley is obtained. In the centre the flats are, perhaps, 2 feet above the water; towards the sides they rise to a height of 4 feet and sometimes 4 feet 6 inches. The lower portions are marked by a series of lagoons. These marshes are only, however, swamped when the river is in flood, and even then not to any great depth, as the total flood rise is not more than 4 to 5 feet over summer level. The valley averages 8 to 10 miles in width. The forest and thick bush extend to a long distance away from the river. Progress through this forest is only possible by means of the elephant tracks, which are very numerous. At mile 438 the channel again bifurcates, the two branches reuniting 5 miles up-stream. There are so many islands and so many side channels, that it is almost, if not quite, impossible to find the whole stream contained in one single channel, and this is the case the whole way between Bor and Gondokoro. The river varies immensely in width. In places it is from 200 to 300 yards broad, and in others only 80 to 90 yards. As the Bahr El Jebel is ascended the average depth decreases, and throughout the reach between Kiro and Lado is rarely more than from 6 to 9 feet. At mile 451 the river touches the western forest edge, having traversed the marshes. The trees on this side are, as a rule, finer than those in the eastern forest. The bank, at the water’s edge, is from 3 to 4 feet high, but rises rapidly to a height of 12 to 16 feet above the water. At mile 456 used to be an Anglo-Egyptian station, 1901 (west bank), now abandoned. The scenery here is very fine, and luxuriant tropical vegetation abounds. Giant Euphorbia are a marked feature of the landscape. The whole of the banks and most of the trees are covered with a velvety-looking mass of creepers. A bluff, 10 to 12 feet high, juts out into the stream, but the action of the current is so strong that the friable soil is being rapidly eaten away. The face of this cliff is perforated by myriads of holes, made by a very beautiful and tiny species of bee-eater. These birds have rose-coloured wings with bronze-coloured bodies. They add much to the beauty of a lovely scene.

Pole west bank (April, 1903) to mark 5° 30′. 17 448

721

Western forest 3 451

726

Old Anglo-Egyptian station of Kiro. 5 456

734

(Illustrations)

Kiro (Congo F.S.) 4 460

740 At mile 400 from Lake No, the station of Kiro, the most northerly in the Lado Enclave, is situated on the western bank. The latitude of Kiro is apparently between 5° 12′ and 5° 13′ north. The erosion caused by the river here is very great, large masses of the sheer cliff, which is 15 to 20 feet over the summer water-level, are constantly falling into the Nile. It seems probable that unless they take protective measures the Belgians will be forced to retire their houses some distance back from the water. Kiro is a picturesque-looking place. The huts are well laid out and neatly built. The cantonment is surrounded by a brick wall, with places for guns, parapet, and ditch. The Commandant’s house is a comfortable-looking structure, with a good thatched roof and a deep verandah. The forest surrounds the station. The garrison consisted in January, 1903, of some sixty-five men. It possessed a small steamer (the “Van Kerckhoven,” called after the leader of the first Congo Expedition to the Nile, 1889; the boat is clumsy and draws 4 feet of water; but having been brought in sections overland from the west coast she is entitled to respect), and several steel sailing boats. The negro soldiers differ largely in type from the inhabitants of the Nile valley. In figure they are short and squat, and some of them are much tattooed. They are recruited from the West Coast, and from the tribes in the Congo valley generally, and make excellent and very mobile soldiers. Upon an island opposite the station vegetables and paw-paw trees are grown. Beyond this there appears to be little cultivation. Kiro is extremely unhealthy in the rainy season. In two years the Belgians lost 9 Europeans and 300 natives from fever. Black-water fever is not uncommon here, and guinea-worm is a prevalent complaint. One-and-a-half miles up-stream of Kiro two fair-sized lakes are enclosed by the western forest. These evidently receive the drainage of the high land from a considerable distance. On the east bank a khor, passable for small steamers, runs north-north-east, rejoining the river just north of Kiro. From here to mile 467 the river skirts the western bank. Everywhere severe action is taking place, and many trees have fallen into the water. Three miles on another large lake opens out in the forest. At one end of it the Lado mountain forms a background, making an imposing picture. At mile 468 another bifurcation occurs. The western branch follows the forest as far as Lado, but navigation in summer by this channel is difficult. The eastern branch crosses the marshes. There are several connections between the two channels. The river now averages from 250 to 300 yards in breadth. At mile 472 the eastern forest is again reached. Here there is a good wooding station, as the trees and high land come down close to the water’s edge.

Mongalla[40] 14 474

763 Most southerly post on the Nile of Sudan Government (occupied 1901), situated on east bank. Garrison two companies. A gunboat is always stationed here, in addition to which there is usually a steamer at the disposal of the Commandant for administrative purposes. About 200 tukls. Open grassy, sandy spot; fairly healthy; 5 to 8 feet above water. Plenty of trees and bush. The Bari are the inhabitants of the district, but are few in number; few supplies. Brick houses. Proceeding up-stream, the river divides, the main channel running through swamps, and the east channel skirting the villages of Sheikh Lado, Lowala, and Yemba. The depth is rarely more than 9 feet, though there are occasional pools of 12 to 16 feet in depth. Hippopotami used to be extremely numerous and particularly obtrusive, but seem lately to have disappeared. A few huts are to be seen, chiefly on the eastern shore. Most of these have been recently constructed, as many of the Bari have migrated from the west to the east bank of the river, and have settled on Sudan territory. At mile 477 the river again leaves the east bank and crosses the swamps. The width of the valley now contracts to some 4 miles. Such a labyrinth of streams winds through these grassy flats that, without an experienced pilot, navigation would be extremely difficult, more especially as the depth of water rapidly decreases. As it is, there are so many sand banks that it is difficult to proceed at night. At mile 494 the west channel, mentioned as branching off at mile 468, rejoins the east branch, and half a mile up-stream the station of Lado is reached. At this point, with the exception of a moderate-sized inlet some 3 miles down-stream of Lado, the river is confined in one single channel.

Sheikh Lado’s village, east bank 2 476

766

Lado 19 495

796 Capital of the Lado Enclave, taken on and rebuilt in 1898. Formerly an Egyptian post, and at one time head-quarters of Emin Pasha. Situated on the bank 10 to 14 feet above river. Very well selected position, protected on the north by a broad swift running khor and 2 forts, and on the south by an impassable morass; only land approach from the west commanded by a fort. Surrounded on three sides by a rectangular parapetted enclosure, about 400 by 200 yards, one long face being open to the river. Garrison, about 15 white officers and 500 men (1904). Enclosure contains about 20 good brick straw-thatched houses, and good tukls for the men. Road leads to Rejaf (broad) and thence to Yei, Ibembo and Mbima. Native track also to Kiro. Good bamboo and some gum about Jebel Lado. Forest close by. Few or no supplies. The neighbourhood of Lado is a desolate-looking spot, not nearly so picturesque as Kiro, but, on the other hand, healthier. A flat plain with bushes stretches from the river for about 2 miles. From here the forest commences, and gradually rises to the spurs of Jebel Lado, which is some 12 miles from the station. The food for the troops has to be brought from a very long distance. In front of Lado is a low island, upon which vegetables, bananas, and castor-oil plants are grown. This island is 4 feet over low-water level at the south end, and was topped by the 1903 flood. According to the Belgian officers, the flood water contains but little sediment beyond sand, and this statement is borne out by the deposit on the flats and banks. They further state that in flood the colour of the water scarcely changes at all. There appears to be no trade whatever, but a good deal of cultivation. The ivory collected here is small. India-rubber is apparently not found within any reasonable distance of the Nile. Owing to the two years’ drought and one year’s flood, the natives on the west bank of the river had no supplies. Lado possesses a fine herd of long-horned cattle for the use of the garrison. Fever is very prevalent during the rainy months, but does not appear to be of such a deadly type as at Kiro. In April, 1901, the rains had already commenced. According to M. Renier, the month of May in this region is one of abundant daily rainfall, but this is not always the case.

Proceeding up-stream from Lado, the scenery improves. Eleven ranges of irregularly-shaped peaks are visible to the east and south-east. Most of them are covered with scrub, and round the bases the bamboo is said to grow in luxuriance. From the river bank up to these ranges extends a broad expanse of reeds and grass, bounded by a dark forest line. To the west the country rises rapidly in a series of ridges clothed with forest. The Bahr El Jebel now averages from 250 to 300 yards in width, and the depth ranges from 6 to 8 feet. Islands and side channels abound, and in flood time it must be difficult to say which is the main stream. The loss of water is comparatively small, as the grass flats are high. Numerous Bari villages on the east bank and on the islands, but few on the west bank. Further south, range upon range of hills show up in the distance, one beyond the other. These are not very high, but are of striking outline and form an agreeable change to the eye, after days passed in the dreary flatness of the Jebel marshes. The width of the valley is here about 5 miles from bank to bank. The Bari villages increase in number on the east bank as the river is ascended. Jebel Lado still dominates the western landscape, and Jebel Rejaf, a pyramidal and solitary peak, marks the point where the reefs and rapids begin. On approaching Gondokoro, navigation becomes more and more difficult as the water shoals rapidly, and the maze of channels and islands are perplexing and intricate; half a mile from Gondokoro are some bad shallows.

Gondokoro 9 504

810 At mile 504 from Lake No, the station of Gondokoro is reached. This place, on the east bank of the Bahr El Jebel, is the north frontier post of the Uganda Protectorate. Gordon gives the latitude of Gondokoro as 4° 54′ 29″ north, and the longitude as 31° 43′ 46″ east. The altitudes given by different authorities vary so much that they are not worth recording. Gondokoro, although a healthy-looking station, has a deserted and scattered appearance. The buildings, mostly of bamboo and straw with brick houses for the European staff, contrast but poorly with those of the Belgians at Lado and Kiro; the station was occupied in 1899. The Collector’s house, or Residency, is situated about 300 yards to the north of the garrison lines, and 130 yards from the river. It is built of burnt bricks, with a high thatched roof, on ground 16 feet, or more, above the river, and surrounded by a thorn zeriba. This and the M.O.’s house are raised on brick arches from the ground and surrounded by gardens and cultivation. The thorn scrub approaches to within 1000 yards of the houses. The station is situated on a high cliff, from 18 to 39 feet above the water. Much of this cliff has fallen in, and the foundations of the Austrian Mission Buildings, abandoned in 1858, are now on the extreme edge of the high bank. A few deleib palms and lime trees mark this bluff. The station extends over an area of about 1 by ½ mile. The new lines are built some 400 yards back from the river. The present huts which accommodate the small garrison are circular huts of mud and grass. There is also a police barracks containing about 25 men. The remains of Baker’s old lines are still existing. He had here a garrison of 1,500 men, but in his time the Bari was a powerful and warlike tribe. Gondokoro was, moreover, an important centre for the slave trade. Baker’s old lines consist of three rectangles, one within the other. The inner one is about 300 by 400 yards; the second, 500 by 800 yards; while the outer is, perhaps, 1,000 to 1,200 yards square. Each of these rectangles is surrounded by a mud bank about 4 feet high, with an outer ditch 4 feet deep by 6 feet broad at the top. There used to be plenty of trees, bananas, paw-paws, etc., and the station was, on the whole, a pretty one, but floods and white ants have now destroyed many of the trees. To the south and north of the station, and also 1¼ miles to the east, are large marshes, which must tend to make the place unhealthy. At times wild elephants come close to the lines. Many Bari villages are located on the river near Gondokoro. All these are on the east side. The Bari appear to be better agriculturists than are either the Dinka, Nuer, or Shilluk. They cultivate dura, ground nuts, beans, and a little tobacco; also sweet potatoes, and manioc. A small market for local produce has been established, and Bari and Luluba keep it fairly well supplied; time, it is hoped, will bring an increase in population and cultivation. The castor-oil plant grows like a weed in this locality. The average maximum flood rise of the river here over summer level is not more than 4 feet. In the flood of 1878 it rose to a height of 7·2 feet on the gauge (Chelu). The general direction of the river here is north and south, so that Gondokoro is well situated with regard to the prevailing winds. The main channel, opposite the station, is about 400 yards across, but is separated from the main land by a large island.

(For description of the river to the Albert Nyanza, vide Appendix, Vol. II.)

КИРО.

ЛАДО.

ГОНДОКОРО.

СВОДНАЯ ТАБЛИЦА РАССТОЯНИЙ.

Intermediate. From Lake No.

Miles. Kilometres. Miles. Kilometres.

Hellet el Nuer 139 223 139 223

False channel (22 miles) 4 6 143 230

Bahr el Zeraf (south end) 106 170 249 401

Shambe 7 11 256 412

Abu Kuka 37 59 293 471

Kanisa 11 18 304 489

Bor 80 129 384 617

Latitude 5° 30′ 64 103 448 721

Kiro 12 19 460 740

Mongalla 14 22 474 763

Lado 21 34 495 796

Gondokoro 9 14 504 810

МОНГАЛЛА.

[17]The flood discharge at Berber is 14,000 metres cube per second.

[18] Полную хронику истории исследования Нила см. в книге «Поиски Нила» (The Nile Quest) сэра Х. Джонстона.

[19] В течение зимы 1904–1905 гг. планируется предпринять попытку исследования Бахр-эль-Араба от его устья.

[20] Т. е. Слияние рек.

[21] По мнению некоторых, это изменение происходит у озера Но.

[22] Даты максимального уровня воды выше по течению от Собата совпадают с таковыми для Бахр-эль-Джебеля.

[23] Максимум никогда не достигается до поздней осени, когда паводок Голубого Нила уже проходит.

[24] Корти находится на высоте 825 футов над уровнем Средиземного моря.

[25] В апреле и мае 1904 года лейтенантом Инженерных войск Ньюкомбом (Lieut. Newcombe, R.E.) была проведена разведка трассы для железнодорожной линии, соединяющей Мерове с Абу-Хамедом. Говорят, что объем скальных выемок, необходимых для прокладки линии вблизи реки по правому берегу, является непомерно большим, и наиболее жизнеспособным представляется вариант прокладки линии на некотором удалении вглубь суши с приближением к реке, возможно, всего дважды на участке между Абу-Хамедом и Мерове. Длина линии составит примерно около 150 миль. Было окончательно решено начать строительство этой линии в ближайшее время.

[26] В настоящее время (1904 г.) наггеры никогда не совершают этого путешествия.

[27] В практических целях следует обращаться к крупномасштабным зарисовкам капитана Э. А. Стантона (I.D. Nubia District, 132) от 23 августа 1897 г. (Эль-Бана и Хальфия) и 25 августа 1897 г. (порог Гериду). Буквы относятся к точкам, отмеченным таким образом на этих зарисовках.

[28] По обоим берегам от Шенди до Бербера проложена широкая дорога или просека. Она должна быть продлена до Абу-Хамеда.

[29] Подробности об этом пороге см. в N.O. (1-е издание, стр. 74–80; 2-е издание, стр. 78–83).

[30] Количество осадков в 1903 году составило 67,9 мм, или 2,7 дюйма, из которых 24,1 мм выпало в мае, а остальная часть — в июле, августе и сентябре. В 1904 году количество осадков составило 21,4 мм, или около ¾ дюйма. См. также стр. 12.

[31] Меры, принятые для уничтожения комаров здесь, оказались столь эффективными, что в настоящее время они практически полностью истреблены. Редкие случайные особи, завезенные пароходами с Верхнего Нила, быстро обнаруживаются, а их личинки уничтожаются. Методы уничтожения см. в «Отчете Исследовательских лабораторий Уэллсома — Колледж Гордона — 1904 г.»

[32] Т. е. точка слияния Голубого и Белого Нилов напротив южной части Омдурмана. Расстояния измеряются по центру судоходного фарватера, поэтому они не являются абсолютно точными для путей по тому или иному берегу. Приведенный здесь путеводитель по берегам не всегда точно соответствует новейшей карте, так как иногда основан на дорожных отчетах предыдущих лет.

[33] Дебба — это невысокий холм, обычно являющийся местом расположения старой или существующей деревни.

[34] Местное название бывшей Фашоды.

[35] Т. е. там, где раньше существовал затор.

[36] В этом месте находился «ящик» (Box) или «сандук» (Sanduk) на шесте, установленный в качестве ориентира и для писем.

[37] См. также страницу 144.

[38] Более подробное описание Бора и его жителей см. на странице 144.

[39] В окрестностях находится большое дерево гаммеиза, под кроной которого расположена дом отдыха, а также топливная станция. Мнения расходятся относительно того, является ли это то самое первоначальное дерево.

[40] Дальнейшее описание см. на стр. 146.

ГЛАВА III.

СЕверо-ВОСТОЧНЫЙ СУДАН.

(Территория, ограниченная на севере суданско-египетской границей, на западе — Нилом от этой границы до устья Атбары, на юге — Атбарой и границами Абиссинии и Эритреи, а на востоке — Красным морем.)

Раздел 1. — Местность между Хальфой и устьем Атбары вдоль берегов Нила.

Общие сведения. Вдоль Нила от Фараса до Хальфы восточный берег заслуживает внимания своей возделываемостью. От Хальфы почти до Коши, за исключением Сарраса, земледелие развито слабо, а постоянное население практически отсутствует. Большая часть этого участка представляет собой скалистую, пустынную местность, известную как «Батн-эль-Хагар». К югу от Коши поля и селения встречаются чаще и тянутся практически непрерывно до Абу-Хамеда (см. главу II, разделы 1 и 2. О левом береге, городе Донгола и др. см. главу IX).

Между Абу-Хамедом и местом впадения Атбары на восточном берегу обрабатываемой земли немного, за исключением участка к югу от Гененетти. Отсюда до Атбары насчитывается около 500 сагий. Обрабатываемая земля, как правило, простирается примерно на 500 ярдов вглубь от реки, а в некоторых местах — до 3 миль.

Территория, ограниченная рекой и магистральной линией Железных дорог Правительства Судана между Хальфой и Абу-Хамедом, представляет собой безводную песчаную или галечную пустыню, местами изрезанную скалистыми холмами и грядами. Она практически необитаема, но считается, что в ней содержатся полезные ископаемые и выработки старых шахт близ Курора и т. д. В настоящее время они исследуются.

Почва на берегах реки в провинции Донгола практически на всем протяжении богатая, аллювиальная и отлично приспособлена для выращивания хлопчатника. По сути, эта провинция является самой богатой и процветающей в Судане.

Климат. Здоровье отличное круглый год. Лихорадка встречается крайне редко, фиксируются лишь легкие случаи. Дождей мало; в сентябре возможны кратковременные ливни. Ветер почти постоянно дует с севера. Офтальмия, столь распространенная в Египте, в провинции Донгола редка. В период с июня по конец сентября погода очень жаркая и изнуряющая, но воздух сухой.

Пути сообщения. Дороги. По обоим берегам Нила на протяжении всей провинции проложены хорошие дороги шириной 5 метров; излучины реки можно часто срезать, особенно между Кошей и Абу-Сари — этот путь длиной 35 миль пролегает через пустыню и не имеет источников воды (см. главу II). На правом берегу пролегает пустынная тропа от Донголы (Науи) до Мерове протяженностью около 100 миль без воды, а также существуют другие пустынные тропы, по которым никогда не ступала нога белого человека; об этих последних мало что или вообще ничего не известно.

Суда. Тяжелые грузы, такие как товары, зерно, финики и т. д., перевозятся преимущественно водным путем, и недостатка в транспортных средствах для нужд местного населения в этом отношении нет; суда строятся постоянно, и всякое стремление к этому поощряется.

Между Кермой и Мерове курсирует почтовый пароход ходом раз в две недели. Однако с февраля по июнь обмеление реки делает судоходство для пароходов опасным из-за порогов между Кермой и Донголой; поэтому в эти месяцы почта перевозится на верблюдах через этот 40-мильный участок, а транспортные грузы доставляются правительственными гаясами, которых в провинции насчитывается 9 штук. Имеются два парохода (1903 г.).

Население, речное и пустынное. От Хальфы до Деббы жители принадлежат к племени берабр [41]. Диалект махаси распространен от Хальфы до Кермы. Здесь начинаются гарариши [42], а затем данагла (берабр), которые расселились до Деббы; оттуда и до Берти живут шаигия. От Берти до Хуллы встречаются монасиры, за которыми следуют робатабы, простирающиеся до Керрабы. Отсюда и до слияния с Атбарой живут ангариаб, хагаб, мерифаб и фадлаб. Немчисленные обитатели пустыни — в основном кочевники-бишарины.

Общая численность речного населения провинции Донгола по состоянию на декабрь 1902 года составляла 105 026 человек и быстро растет.

Это число не включает арабов-кочевников, численность которых можно оценить в 2 000 гараришей (вдоль реки), помимо бишаринов и других кочевников (см. Приложение F) на левом берегу.

Занятие жителей — земледелие, которым они занимаются весьма несовершенно, за исключением Дар-Шаигии; земля могла бы приносить вдвое больше.

Уроженцы Махаса и Суккота отстают в развитии, и вина в этом лежит исключительно на них самих; они обладают крайне ленивым нравом, вечно ссорясь между собой из-за прав на землю и финиковые пальмы, и делают мало или вообще ничего для улучшения своего благосостояния.

В провинции, естественно, имеется определенная доля бедняков, но поскольку спрос на сельскохозяйственный труд высок, работу всегда могут найти те, кто не слишком ленив, чтобы трудиться.

Земледелие. Зерновые культуры, наиболее возделываемые на речном берегу, — это дурра, ячмень и пшеница. Хлопок до сих пор выращивался в ограниченных масштабах исключительно для местного потребления. По завершении строительства железной дороги Нил — Красное море ожидается значительный рост выращивания хлопчатника. Доступно большое количество земли, прекрасно подходящей для культивирования этого ценного сырья, и в текущем году (1904) Правительством были осуществлены очень крупные поставки египетских семян хлопчатника.

В провинции Бербер выращиваемые пшеница и ячмень отличаются хорошим качеством, но их возделывание обходится дорого.

Average yield per feddan (Berber), barley 5 ardebs, average price per ardeb, PT.45 to PT.55.

„ „ wheat, 3 „ „ „ PT.75.

„ „ dura, 5 „ „ „ PT.35 to PT.80.

В провинции Донгола урожаи распределяются следующим образом:

Crop. Months when planted. Months when cut. No. of crops yearly. Average yield per crop per feddan of PT. 40 land.

Dura June and September August and December 2 ⎱

⎰ 3 to 4 ardebs.

Dura Shami June August 1

Wheat December March 1 ⎱

⎰ 2½ to 3 ardebs.

Barley December February, end of 1

Simsim September October, end of, or November, beginning of 1

Примечание. Большая часть земли дает три урожая в год: дважды дурру и один раз пшеницу или ячмень.

Количество сагий в провинции Донгола в декабре 1902 года составляло 3462 штуки, помимо 77 шадуфов и двух насосов. В настоящее время (1904 г.) их насчитывается почти 4000.

Железные сагии, несмотря на испытания, были признаны непригодными, поскольку их трудно ремонтировать. Однако железные детали для старых деревянных сагий доказали свою несомненную эффективность. Европейские плуги непопулярны из-за своего веса.

Главная потребность всех речных провинций — это сельскохозяйственная рабочая сила, люди феллахского типа, которые научили бы местных жителей пахать и возделывать землю и тем самым получать урожаи, соответствующие ценности этой земли.

Местная порода крупного рогатого скота неплохая и представлена в умеренном количестве, однако её можно было бы улучшить в обоих отношениях.

Финики. Налог на финики (2 пиастра с дерева) является одной из главных статей доходов в Донголе. В провинции Бербер также имеется значительное количество пальм. Выращивается надежда, что новая железная дорога позволит значительно увеличить экспорт фиников [43] и тем самым существенно повысить доходы этих провинций. В настоящее время фрахтовые тарифы почти заградительные. Сбор урожая фиников приходится на октябрь и ноябрь. Качество в Донголе превосходное, созревают они раньше египетских, тунисских или триполитанских. В Бербере финики не столь хороши.

Дланевидные пальмы дум. Пальма дум обеспечивает средствами к существованию многих жителей речных районов провинции Бербер. Из ее листьев плетут циновки, сандалии и корзины. Растительное волокно (лиф) в больших количествах вывозится в Омдурман, где из него делают веревки.

Другие деревья. Помимо вышеупомянутых, здесь произрастают деревья сунт, используемые преимущественно для строительства сагий, а также селем, таль, самр и хеглиг, встречающиеся в основном на тыловых землях, наряду с харазом и карликовым тарфом на речном берегу. Внедряются тамариндовые деревья, которые приживаются хорошо.

Сенна. Некоторое количество сенны произрастает в диком виде в провинциях Бербер и Донгола. Ее собирают арабы, которые перевозят ее в Кордофан и Асуан, где она продается примерно по 2,5 египетских фунта за верблюжий вьюк.

Фрукты. Дыни и лимоны в изобилии появляются весной и осенью. Население начинает культивировать виноградную лозу.

Торговля. Импортная торговля провинции Донгола состоит главным образом из хлопчатобумажных тканей и таких предметов роскоши, как сахар, чай, кофе, парфюмерия и т. д., а экспорт включает зерновые и финики. Однако деловая активность невысока. Главным препятствием для развития импортной торговли является отсутствие предприимчивости у торговцев. Для купцов открываются отличные возможности. Жители зажиточны и готовы покупать, особенно такие товары, как ножевые изделия, глиняная посуда, мыло, сельскохозяйственный инвентарь, скобяные изделия и прочие разновсякие товары, но в настоящее время (1904 г.) в провинции нет ни одного зажиточного торговца.

Местная хлопчатобумажная ткань, называемая «дамур», вырабатывается по всей провинции и составляет основную одежду мужчин, которые облачаются в рубаху и штаны с фердой (или тогой) из этого материала.

Административное устройство. Преступность невелика по отношению к численности населения. Жители настроены крайне мирно, и все (мужчины, женщины и дети) работают на полях.

Жилища. Деревни в основном состоят из хорошо построенных домов, разбросанных вдоль границ возделываемых земель. Дома возведены из галуса (глины и камней), имеют хорошие дворы, побелены и содержатся в чистоте. Они намного превосходят жилища феллахов в Египте.

Прочие насекомые. Мушка «ниметта», представляющая собой мелкую мошку, появляется в бесчисленных мириадах с ноября по апрель включительно на участке между Далго и Корти. Укус вызывает легкую лихорадку из-за раздражения. Порой они становятся совершенно невыносимыми и заставляют временно мигрировать как белых людей, так и местных жителей. Туземцы носят пучки тлеющей травы, обвязанные вокруг головы, чтобы отгонять мошку.

Белые муравьи также многочисленны и крайне разрушительны на отрезке между Далго и Корти.

Главные города. Хальфа. Хальфа (Вади-Хальфа), включающая «Лагерь» и «город Хальфа», является столицей провинции Хальфа [44], простирающейся вдоль Нила от острова Фарас (примерно северная широта 22° 10′) до Абу-Фатмы. Она также служит текущей штаб-квартирой и конечным пунктом основной магистрали (Железные дороги Правительства Судана) на Хартум, а также ветки на Керму. В Лагере имеются обширные железнодорожные мастерские. Последний включает в себя казармы, тюрьму, офицерскую столовую, квартал для местных жителей и старые фортификационные сооружения. Имеются также почтово-телеграфное отделение. Население составляет около 400 человек, из которых четверть — белые. Гарнизон в настоящее время отсутствует. Хальфа в течение многих лет (1885–1896 гг.) была штаб-квартирой Пограничных полевых сил, защищавших южную границу Египта от вторжения дервишей.

Гражданский квартал Хальфы расположен в 1,5 милях к северу от Лагеря. Здесь находится отличный отель, а также железнодорожная станция, почтово-телеграфные отделения, несколько хороших магазинов и местный базар. Население, состоящее главным образом из египтян и суданцев со значительной примесью греков, составляет около 2900 человек.

Бербер. Бербер представляет собой вытянутый разбросанный глинобитный город с населением около 5000 человек. Он был захвачен махдистами после некоторого сопротивления 26 мая 1884 года и повторно занят англо-египетскими войсками под командованием лорда Китченера 6 сентября 1897 года. В настоящее время это столица провинции Бербер, однако в 1905 году центр будет перенесен в Эль-Дамер (см. главу IV). В настоящее время имеются две железнодорожные станции: Бербер — Лагерь и город Бербер. Работает почтово-телеграфное отделение. Хороших магазинов в городе нет, и торговля здесь в настоящее время развита слабо. Нынешний город расположен в 2 милях к северу от старого Бербера и является штаб-квартирой египетского батальона.

Отсюда начинается пустынная дорога на Суакин (242 мили). За городом до самого горизонта раскинулась огромная ровная равнина. Это плодородная почва, которая ждет лишь надлежащего орошения, чтобы начать приносить плоды. Бербер находится на высоте 1140 футов над уровнем Средиземного моря, или на 95 футов ниже уровня Хартума.

Раздел 2. — Местность между Хальфой, Бербером, Суакином и пересечением 22-й параллели с Красным морем.

(a) Между железной дорогой и Нилом.

Общие сведения. Для описания эта зона удобно делится на две части железной дорогой Хальфа — Абу-Хамед. Часть к западу от железной дороги включает в себя некоторые из самых засушливых земель в Судане. Общий рельеф представляет собой равнину, покрытую песком или гравэлем, усеянную тут и там крутыми и даже обрывистыми холмами высотой от 100 до 800 футов над уровнем равнины, которая полого и равномерно понижается до расстояния в несколько миль от Нила. Местами эти обособленные холмы настолько многочисленны и расположены так близко друг к другу, что напоминают связанные между собой гряды. Как правило, песок здесь крупный и достаточно плотный, чтобы обеспечить отличный ход для верблюдов; однако время от времени встречаются полосы мягкого глубокого песка, особенно там, где ветер намыл его к холмам или между ними.

Вершина этого пологого отрога, выступающего в излучину Нила, находится на высоте около 2000 футов над уровнем моря в месте пересечения с железной дорогой, то есть примерно на 1500 футов выше Хальфы и на 1080 футов выше Абу-Хамеда.

Местность посередине между рекой и железной дорогой малопосещаема, и единственным известным местом хоть какого-то значения является Джебель-Курор — самый высокий холм к западу от железной дороги, возвышающийся примерно на 4070 футов над уровнем моря. После сильных ливней его «махзаны» (скальные резервуары) удерживают воду в течение многих месяцев, и их время от времени посещают арабы-кочевники.

Непосредственно к югу от Хальфы равнина заканчивается поясом невысоких холмистых возвышенностей шириной около 8–10 миль. После Сарраса этот пояс расширяется, а холмы становятся круче, достигая кульминации в Джебель-Аго к востоку от Акаши, на южной оконечности Батн-эль-Хагара.

Между Акашей и широтой Коши местность становится менее замкнутой, но содержит несколько высоких и обрывистых холмов. К югу от Коши она все больше открывается, холмы понижаются и рассеиваются, пока не сходят на нет к югу от Кермы.

От Кермы и вплоть до Старого Донгола с реки практически не видно никаких холмов, а песчаные дюны нагромождены у самой кромки воды. У Старого Донгола рельеф повышается, и оттуда вплоть до Джебель-Баркала возле Мерове скалистые возвышенности то подступают к реке, то виднеются вдалеке, не всегда при этом вторгаясь в плодородную полосу на правом берегу.

От Джебель-Баркала до Абу-Хамеда в нескольких милях от реки тянется пересеченный и скалистый пояс холмов, хотя сами высоты незначительны.