ГОД В ЕВРОПЕ.
WESTMINSTER ABBEY—JERUSALEM CHAMBER TO THE RIGHT.
ГОД В ЕВРОПЕ.
Автор:
УОЛТЕР У. МУР, доктор богословия, доктор права
Президент Объединенной теологической семинарии в Вирджинии
ТРЕТЬЕ ИЗДАНИЕ
РИЧМОНД, ВИРДЖИНИЯ
Пресвитерианский издательский комитет
1905
Авторское право
ПРИНАДЛЕЖИТ
УОЛТЕРУ У. МУРУ,
1904.
Отпечатано в типографии Whittet & Shepperson, Ричмонд, Вирджиния.
МОИМ спутникам в путешествии посвящается эта книга как память о счастливых днях в Старом Свете.
ПРЕДИСЛОВИЕ.
Единственное оправдание, которое я могу предложить для публикации этих разрозненных и непринужденных писем в столь долговечной форме, заключается в том, что об этом просили многие мои друзья. Многие из этих писем уже появлялись на страницах «Друга детей» (The Children's Friend), для которого они изначально и были написаны по просьбе Пресвитерианского издательского комитета; однако в этот том я включил несколько писем, написанных для других периодических изданий, а также значительное количество тех, что до сих пор нигде не публиковались. Некоторые из них были написаны наспех, «на лету», другие — более вдумчиво и тщательно. Одни предназначались для юных читателей, другие — для людей постарше. Этим объясняются различия в стиле и тематике, которые бросятся в глаза каждому и будут особенно заметны при последовательном чтении писем.
В некоторых случаях я частично черпал материал из других источников, помимо собственных наблюдений, поскольку главной целью порой была не оригинальность, а точность и полнота информации. В таких случаях я старался в полной мере выразить признательность другим авторам.
Поскольку большинство писем писалось для конфессиональной газеты, они, естественно, содержат немало отсылок к примечательным событиям в истории Пресвитерианской церкви, а также к некоторым различиям между этой церковью и другими в вопросах доктрины, церковного устройства и форм богослужения. Но я надеюсь, что ни в одном случае я не испытывал и не выражал духа нетерпимого сектантства. Если у кого-то из читателей сложится впечатление, что в одном-двух случаях я поступил иначе, я прошу его воздержаться от суждений, пока он не прочтет все упоминания подобных вопросов, содержащиеся в письмах. Тогда станет ясно, что если мне и приходилось делать некоторые критические замечания в адрес Англиканской и Римско-католической церквей, я без колебаний делал их и в адрес своей собственной церкви, когда замечал в ее богослужении или деятельности вещи, которые, казалось, свидетельствовали о том, что она в какой-то мере отступает от своих принципов; и что если я критиковал англо-католическую и римско-католическую системы как ошибочные, я с благодарностью признавал великие евангельские истины, заложенные в сердце англиканского и даже римского богословия, пусть и столь прискорбно скрытые под наслоениями, и с радостью воздавал должное святым людям, которые сформировались внутри этих организаций вопреки их заблуждениям.
Richmond, Va., June 1, 1904.
СОДЕРЖАНИЕ.
CHAPTER I.
A Cold Summer Voyage.
A Pleasant Memory.—A Depressing Start.—Discomforts at Sea.—Life on a German Steamship.—The Unification of the World.—All's Well that Ends Well.—Arrival at Southampton, 9
CHAPTER II.
A Visit to the Town of Dr. Isaac Watts.
A Sheltered Harbor with Double Tides.—Historical Interest of Southampton: Canute, William the Conqueror, William Rufus, Richard Lion Heart, the Pilgrim Fathers.—The Chief Distinction of the Town.—Statue of Dr. Watts.—Sketch of the great hymn writer, 16
CHAPTER III.
Salisbury, Sarum, and Stonehenge.
A Fascinating Cathedral Town.—Rural Scenery in Southern England.—Impressiveness of Stonehenge.—Other Things of Interest About Salisbury.—What the Bishop Said About the Presbyterian Form of the Early Church, 21
CHAPTER IV.
Winchester Worthies: Alfred the Great, Izaak Walton, Thomas Ken.
Memorials of Kings Good and Bad.—Memorial of the Gentle Fisherman.—Wit in Winchester College.—A Lovely Churchman.—Ken's Defiance of James II., 28
CHAPTER V.
The Ugliness and the Charm of London.
A Vast and Dingy Metropolis.—The Æsthetic Value of Soot.—Brick versus Stone.—Scotch Cities' Stately, but Gloomy.—Brightness of Paris.—Immensity and Multitude.—The Body is More than Raiment, 34
CHAPTER VI.
The English View of the Fourth of July.
Ambassador Choate's Reception.—Increasing Friendliness Between America and England.—How the English Now View the American Revolution.—A Fair Statement of the Question and the Conflict.—What England Learned from Fighting Against Her Own Principles.—The Monument of Washington in St. Paul's Cathedral.—The Possible Union of Canada and the United States, 41
CHAPTER VII.
How the English Regard the Americans.
Former Prejudices Passing Away.—The English Admit that America Holds the Future.—English Candor and English Inconsistency.—A Sectarian Measure in Parliament.—What Scotchmen Think of the Education Bill.—Passive Resistance of the Nonconformists, 49
CHAPTER VIII.
The British Republic and the House of Commons.
The Real Ruler of the British Empire.—The House of Parliament.—Getting into the Lower House.—The Debate and the Debaters.—Harcourt, Bryce, Campbell-Bannerman, Lloyd-George, John Dillon, Arthur Balfour.—The Incongruity of a Presbyterian Prime Minister.—English and American Oratory, 55
CHAPTER IX.
Cambridge and her Schools.
The Cathedral Route.—The Two University Towns.—Cambridge More Progressive than Oxford.—The Presbyterian Element.—The Two Most Learned Women in the World.—Westminster College.—The Same Difficulties About Candidates for the Ministry, 63
CHAPTER X.
From England to Scotland— The Eastern Route.
The Land of the Mountain and the Flood.—Melrose, Abbotsford, and Dryburgh.—The Wizard of the North.—Edinburgh.—Temporary Residence in Auld Reekie.—Public Worship in Scotland.—Organ, Choir, and Congregation.—Bibles in the Churches, 68
CHAPTER XI.
Some English and Scotch Preachers.
Dean Farrar in Westminster Abbey.—Mr. Haweis and Dr. Wace.—Spurgeon, Parker, and Hughes.—Moravian Mission House.—General Booth.—Scottish Mind and Scottish Heart.—Dr. Marcus Dods.—Dr. George Matheson.—Dr. Whyte and Mr. Black.—Interview with Professor Sayce.—The Inevitable Subject, 75
CHAPTER XII.
Echoes of a Spicy Book on Scotland.
A Unique Prayer for Prince Charlie.—Church-Going in Edinburgh.—The Bibles, the Sermons, the Prayers, the Music.—Jenny Geddes and her Stool.—The Disruption in 1843.—A Sermon-Taster with a Nippy Tongue.—Scottish and American Repartee, 87
CHAPTER XIII.
Is the Scottish Character Degenerating?
"Mine Own Romantic Town."—The Seamy Side of Edinburgh.—The Cause of Her Wretchedness.—Not Lack of
Native Ability, nor Disregard of the Sabbath, but the Curse of Strong Drink.—Appalling Statistics.—A Lesser Menace, 100
CHAPTER XIV.
Stirling, the Lakes, and Glasgow.
The Wallace Monument.—Memorials of the Martyrs.—Margaret Wilson.—The Covenanters.—The Author of "The Men of the Moss Hags."—Aberfoyle, The Trossachs, Loch Katrine, Loch Lomond.—Lord Overtoun's Garden Party.—Rev. John McNeill.—Scotch Humor.—Glasgow.—The Cathedral.—Lord Kelvin, 107
CHAPTER XV.
Oban, Iona, and Staffa.
Rude Seas off the West Coast.—A Difficult Landing.—The Presbyter Abbot, Columba.—The Evangelization of Scotland from Iona.—The Burial Place of the Scottish Kings.—The Basaltic Columns of Staffa.—Fingal's Cave.—Nature's Cathedral.—The Caledonian Canal, 119
CHAPTER XVI.
Inverness and Memories of Flora Macdonald.
A Clean and Comely City.—The Statue of Flora Macdonald.—The Career of a Royal Adventurer.—A Fugitive in the Hebrides.—A Woman to the Rescue.—Feminine Courage and Resource.—Flora Macdonald as Prisoner.—Her Marriage.—She Entertains Dr. Johnson and Boswell.—Moves to North Carolina.—Misfortunes in the New World.—Her Return to Scotland and her Last Days, 124
CHAPTER XVII.
From Scotland to England— Western Route.
In and Around Perth.—Quhele, Shoe Heel and Maxton.—Crieff and Drumtochty.—Loch Leven.—Ayr and Robert
Burns.—Dumfries, Keswick, Skiddaw.—The English Lakes.—Chester.—Lichfield and Dr. Samuel Johnson.—The Shakespeare Country.—The American Window at Stratford.—The English Language as Spoken in the Birthplace of Shakespeare and Elsewhere, 133
CHAPTER XVIII.
A Visit to Rugby and a Tramp to the White Horse Hill.
Tom Brown's School Days at Rugby.—The Rugby of To-day.—Our Expedition to Tom Brown's Birthplace.—The Highest Horse we Ever Mounted.—The Roman Camp.—King Alfred's Defeat of the Danes.—The Manger and the Dragon's Hill.—The Blowing Stone.—The effect upon our Appetites.—The Tea we did not Drink.—Return to Oxford.—London Once More, 142
CHAPTER XIX.
The Most Interesting Building in the World.
The Birthplace of the Shorter Catechism.—The Coronation Postponed.—Westminster Abbey Still Closed.—The Assembly of Divines.—The Two Places of Meeting.—The Two Types of Worship.—Interior of the Jerusalem Chamber.—Exterior of the Jerusalem Chamber.—Connection of Henry IV., Sir Thomas More, Joseph Addison, and Sir Isaac Newton with the Jerusalem Chamber.—Architectural Glory of Westminster Abbey.—Its Historical Interest.—Coronations.—The Stone of Scone.—Burials.— Monuments.—Pagan Sculptures in a Christian Church, 151
CHAPTER XX.
The Royal Chapels in Westminster Abbey.
A Hard-Hearted Verger.—A Courteous Sub-Dean.—The Wax Effigies.—Mutilated Monuments.—Monuments Denied to Notable Persons.—The Objection to Milton.—General Meigs and President Davis.—The Vindication of Cromwell.—Treatment of his Dead Body.—History of his Head.—His Statue at Westminster, 168
CHAPTER XXI.
The Cathedrals versus The Gospel.
Original Significance of the Cathedrals.—Their Æsthetic Influence.—Their Romanizing Tendency.—Their Charm for the Greatest of the Puritans.—A Half-Reformed Church.—Relics of Romanism.—Effect of Cathedrals on Presbyterian Worship.—Superior Impressiveness of Protestant Simplicity, 177
CHAPTER XXII.
Some Things for High Churchmen to Think About.
The Use of Written Prayers.—The Huguenot Presbyterians in Canterbury Cathedral.—Scuffle Between the Archbishops of Canterbury and York.—The Concomitants of Anglican Worship.—The Intoning.—Canon Henson at St. Margaret's.—His Remarks on Anglican Narrowness.—What he Could See in Virginia.—Decreasing Attendance in the Anglican Churches in London.—An Episcopalian Estimate of Presbyterian Preaching, 186
CHAPTER XXIII.
Paris and Memories of the Huguenots.
The English Channel as a Health Resort.—The External Beauty of the French Capital.—What we Did Not Like About Paris.—The Louvre and its Treasures.—The Boer Generals.—The Huguenot Name and the Huguenot Character.—Palissy the Potter.—Other Huguenot Heroes and Heroines.—A Roman Catholic's Condemnation of Roman Catholic Persecutions.—France's Loss the World's Gain.—What we Owe to the Huguenots.—The Huguenot Strain in Virginia.—The Present Huguenot Revival in France.—Brussels and Waterloo, 199
CHAPTER XXIV.
The Making of Holland.
Unique Interest of Holland.—A Land Below Sea-Level.—Water as an Enemy.—Dykes as Protectors.—How Dykes
are Made.—Sand Dunes.—Canals.—Wind-Mills.—Polders.—Entering Holland.—The Scenery and the Scenes.—Rotterdam and Erasmus.—Delft and William the Silent.—The Hague.—Rembrandt's "School of Anatomy."—A Presbyterian Queen.—A Presbyterian Preacher as Prime Minister.—Unpresbyterian Church Buildings.—Would the Destruction of all the Cathedrals have been a Loss or a Gain? 212
CHAPTER XXV.
Leyden's University, Haarlem's Flowers, and Amsterdam's Commerce.
The Great Siege.—A University as a Reward of Valor.—John Robinson and the Pilgrim Fathers.—Horse Flesh as Food.—Haarlem and the Flower Boom.—Amsterdam's Islands and Canals.—A City Built on Stakes.—Business of Amsterdam.—President Kruger at Utrecht.—Queer Customs in Holland.—The Dutch Mania for Cleanliness.—Mr. Edward Bok on "The Mother of America," 222
CHAPTER XXVI.
Up the Rhine and Over the Alps.
Cologne and Coblentz.—The Vintage of the Rhine Valley.—Wiesbaden and the German Woods.—The Luther Monument at Worms.—Wintry Weather at Heidelberg.—Strasburg's Cathedral and Clock.—Switzerland in Winter-time.—The Lion of Lucerne.—A Cold Day on the Lake.—Over the Alps.—Snow in Italy.—Milan, 238
CHAPTER XXVII.
Venice, Bologna, Florence, and Pisa.
The Queen of the Adriatic.—The Fallen Campanile.—Fra Paolo Sarpi, the Greatest of the Venetians.—Busy Bologna.—The Leaning Towers.—The Colonnades.—The Oldest University.—Galvani and his Frog.—The Flower of Fair Cities.—Art Treasures of Florence.—The Reformer Before the Reformation.—Martyrdom of Savonarola.—Pisa's Four Monuments, 245
CHAPTER XXVIII.
Some Little Adventures by the Way.
Letter-Writing Under Difficulties.—An Exemplary Traveller.—A Mild Sensation in Leyden.—A German Baby-Cart out of its Element.—Something New in Venice.—No Place for Wheels.—Gondolas and Gondoliers.—Wonderful Dexterity with a Single Oar.—A Scattering of Baggage on the Streets of Cologne.—Disastrous Descent of a Baby-Cart from the Top of an Omnibus.—Extortion and Fraud in Sacred Places, 254
CHAPTER XXIX.
Relics in General and the Iron Crown of Lombardy in Particular.
Mark Twain's Animadversions.—The Palladium of Venice.—The Gift of Leo XIII. to London.—The Blood of St. Januarius.—The House of the Virgin at Loretto.—The Wonder-Working Bones of St. Anne in Canada.—The Iron Crown of Lombardy.—A Winter Trip to Monza.—The Treasury of the Cathedral.—The Chapel of the Great Relic.—Why the Crown is so Sacred.—How it was used by Charlemagne and Napoleon.—Rome Caps the Climax.—Do American Roman Catholics Believe in the Relics? 259
CHAPTER XXX.
Roman Catholic Relics at Rome.
The Miraculous Snow in Summertime.—The Holy Cradle.—The Little Doll that Owns a Large Carriage.—The Wealth and Power of the Miraculous Bambino.—The Communion Table Used by Christ.—The Holy Stairs from Pilate's Palace.—The Man who Crawled Up and Walked Down.—The Miraculous Portrait and the Shoes of Christ.—The Inscription on the Cross and the Finger of Thomas.—A Bottle of the Blood of Christ.—Exclusion of Women from Holy Places.—The Hardness of St. Peter's Knees.—The Hardness of St. Peter's Head.— What the Head of St. Paul Did.—St. Paul's Use of Plautilla's Veil.—The Footprints of Christ in Stone.—The Chains of St. Peter.—The Column Against which Christ Leaned in the Temple.—The Chair of St. Peter.—The Lance that Pierced the Saviour's Side.—The Napkin of St. Veronica with the Miraculous Impression of our Lord's Face.—The Head of the Apostle Andrew, 273
CHAPTER XXXI.
The Legends, The Popes, and the Pasquinades.
The Manufacture of St. Philomena.—The Canonization of Buddha.—The Courteous Spaniard.—The Miracles of St. Dominic.—Miracles Wrought by Other Saints and Images.—How the Papal Treasury was Filled, and How it was Emptied.—Some Ugly Passages in Papal History.—Pasquino's View of the Pope.—What the Italians Now Think About it.—Few Men and Many Women at the Confessional.—Lord Macaulay, Charles Dickens, Mr. Gladstone, Mr. McCarthy and Nathaniel Hawthorne on the Influence of Romanism.—The New Pope a Good Man, 293
CHAPTER XXXII.
The Old Forces and the New in the Eternal City.
An Audience with the Pope.—"Long Live the Pope-King!" The Pope's Last Jubilee in St. Peter's.—Our Quarters on the Pincian Hill.—The Sweep of History Seen from the Janiculum.—The Colosseum and the Baths of Caracalla.—The Papal Passion for Terrestrial Immortality.—The Building Boom Under the New Government.—Can the New Government Maintain Itself Against the Priests? 315
CHAPTER XXXIII.
The Two Types of Religion in Rome.
The Cappucin Cemetery.—Some Differences Between America and Italy.—The Playful Inquisition.—The Relative Rank of the Deities Worshipped in Rome.—The Fee of the
Visitor More Important than the Soul of the Worshipper.—Sensuality versus Spirituality in Art.—The Kind of Character Produced.—The Other Type.—An Apostolic Preacher in Rome.—A Wise and Loving Pastor, 328
CHAPTER XXXIV.
The Inexhaustibleness of Rome.
The Most Interesting City in the World.—The Embarrassment of Riches.—Boundless Wealth of Materials.—The Appian Way, the Catacombs, the Ecclesiastical Statues.—The Remains of Classical Rome: The Arches, the Columns, the Tombs, the Statues.—The Masterpieces of Sculpture and the Masterpieces of Painting in Rome.—The Best Books About Rome.—Lord Mahon and Professor Lanciani on the Last of the Stuarts.—Ave Roma Immortalis, 341
CHAPTER XXXV.
Naples, Capri, Vesuvius, Amalfi, and Pompeii.
Beauty and Filth.—Danger and Indifference.—Street Scenes in Naples.—The Blue Grotto of Capri.—The Ascent of Vesuvius.—A Stream of Liquid Fire.—Hard Climbing Through Cinders.—Driven Back from the Crater by Sulphur Fumes.—The Most Beautiful Drive in the World.—The Loveliness of Amalfi.—The Ruins of Pompeii.—Story of the Catastrophe.—The Work of Exhumation.—The Return Voyage by Gibraltar and the Azores.—There is no Place Like Home, 346
ИЛЛЮСТРАЦИИ.
Westminster Abbey and Jerusalem Chamber, Frontispiece.
The House of Parliament, London, 56
Clare College and King's Chapel, Cambridge, 62
Sir Walter Scott's Seat in Melrose Abbey, 69
Drill of Highlanders, Edinburgh Castle, 88
Princes Street, Edinburgh, 101
Monument to Margaret Wilson, Stirling, 108
Statue of Flora Macdonald, Inverness, 124
Magdalen College, Oxford, 150
Poets Corner, Westminster Abbey, 164
A Stranger in Leyden, 223
The Lion of Lucerne, 242
The Doge's Palace, Venice, 247
The Bambino, 276
Scala Santa, Rome, 279
Kings of England and Italy in Rome, 319
Panorama of Naples, 346
A Windy Day on Mount Vesuvius, 350
On the Road to Amalfi, 352
Colonnade of Hotel Cappuccini, 354
Pompeii, 356
ГОД В ЕВРОПЕ.
ГЛАВА I.
Холодное летнее путешествие.
Southampton, England, June 28, 1902.
A Pleasant Memory.
Один американский путешественник говорит, что морское путешествие по сравнению с сухопутным — это как брак по сравнению с холостяцким блаженством: либо значительно лучше, либо значительно хуже. В моем случае, во время первой поездки в Европу несколько лет назад, это было, как и мой собственный опыт в браке, значительно лучше. Мы отплыли из Нью-Йорка в погожий день, и почти весь путь погода была ясной, бодрящей, жизнерадостной: синее небо над головой, синее море под ногами и как раз достаточное волнение воды, чтобы придать всему этому очарование изменчивой красоты. Лишь пару раз даже нашим самым непривычным к морю пассажирам требовались «видимые средства опоры» из-за качки, а когда мы вошли в Гольфстрим, глубокий, синий и теплый, на палубе было приятно даже без верхней одежды. Я помню, как капитан рассказывал мне, что видел, как температура воды менялась на тридцать один градус за две минуты при переходе из Гольфстрима в более холодное течение, хотя сами мы тогда с подобным не сталкивались. День за днем мы отдыхали на палубе или неспешно прогуливались, глубоко и размеренно вдыхая чистый океанский воздух, и имели частую возможность узнать значение выражения «кошачья лапка» применительно к ветру, когда под легкими порывами воздуха спокойный океан приобретал рябь, в точности напоминающую следы кошачьих лап на свежем снегу.