«Англо-египетский Судан: Справочник для офицеров правительства Судана, Том 2»

Fula Um Sheikh

4 151 Large fula, 120 yards by 80, 3 feet deep. Good clear water.

Rahad Lake

11 162 Lake 3 miles long, ½ mile broad, about 3 feet deep—good water. Numbers of mosquitoes and sand flies. Big village about 2 miles from lake.

Mao

10 172 Tebeldi trees and well. Road from here onwards much obstructed by trees.

J. Ein

19 101 At foot of rocky hill is a well, said to be a spring. 60 buckets did not empty it. Forest very thick and full of deep khors about here.

J. Deigo 11 202 2 small fulas of filthy water hardly drinkable by horses.

El Obeid 9 211

78. — ОТ ГЕДИДА ДО ЭЛЬ-РАХАДА ЧЕРЕЗ АГЕЙЛУ.

Капитан У. Ллойд, декабрь 1901 г.

Эта дорога очень болотистая в сезон дождей.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Gedid

— — Two good wells. Many Gimma villages near. They are not occupied during the rains, as there is little cultivation near. Good shade. Track over cotton soil, thick bush.

Abu Rukba 17 17 Some old wells. The tomb of the Khalifa’s father is on a hill a little to the N. of the road. There are a great many tracks here. Local guide necessary.

Um Afgheim

18 35 Pool and one well. Track now leads over many sandy ridges. Between the ridges black cotton soil. Bush thick in places.

Ageila

14 49 Several wells (14) with good supply of water. The village of Sheikh Yasin Yusef head Sheikh of the Gowamas is a mile N. of wells. Good shade. Water stands here in rains and mosquitoes are very bad. (There is a road from here to Sherkeila, 12 miles). There is now less black soil, and the bush becomes less thick.

Um Ruaba

24 73 A large fula with wells. The latter are very bad. Much trouble in watering ten camels. Good shade. The village is 1½ miles to the N.

Track to Shamagatta and Taiara 12 85 [To Shamagatta 12 miles, Taiara 30 miles].

Country becomes undulating, sandy ridges, black soil between.

El Eilafun

10 95 A small place with one well, but little water.

Um Sereiha 1 96 Small village, water from El Eilafun. These two villages were once large places, now very poor. Good track.

El Rahad

22 118 Several large villages, much cultivation and small suk. Lake now full.

N.B.—Lake was dry in autumn 1902. When dry, wells are dug in bed of the lake.

79. — ОТ КАКИ ДО ПРОТИВОПОЛОЖНОГО БЕРЕГА ДЖЕБЕЛЕЙНА, ПО ЛЕВОМУ БЕРЕГУ.

Капитан Г. Г. Уилсон, март — апрель 1903 г.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Kaka Meshra — — A good landing place at low Nile, but impossible at high. Track from here to opposite Jebel Ahmed Agha runs in N.E. direction, and lies some way from the river.

Moro

2½ 2½ Most northerly Shilluk village, part of the Kaka district. Country round here is bushy, with certain number of good trees.

Arab village

¾ 3¼ Part of the Kenana tribe, who are to be found in considerable numbers in the vicinity of Fashoda, Fama, Atara, and Kaka.

Debba Adaraba 1¾ 5 On right of track. Site of old Shilluk village.

Debba El Asal ¾ 5¾ On right of track. There is a very fair track all along here, passable all the year round, but crossing a number of shallow khors which would be a serious obstacle in the rains. After passing El Asal, the bush gives place to fine park-like land, situated on high sandy ground.

Ferik

2¼ 8 Sheep ferik of Baggara Selim Arabs, only occupied by them during dry season. The whole of the country from Kaka to Jebelein is the Selim country, over which they roam from December to May. A number of Hemeida and other Arabs from Kordofan also come and graze their flocks here.

5¼ 13¼ Small Shilluk village on what is an island in the rains; I was unable to find out the name of it, but the name of the sheikh is Angwet.

¾ 14 Track here crosses two khors which were dry in April. Forest all along here on left. Wide river foreshore with khors on right.

2½ 16½ A big khor runs into the river from the west—dry in April. Some very fine big trees about here, some of the timber being exceptionally long and straight.

Debba Duara El Sogheir 3¾ 20¼ Debba on right, high sandy ground and fine forest.

Debba Duara El Kebir 2¼ 22½ Big khor running alongside of track on right. It is impossible to get to the river anywhere in this country, except at one or two recognised places, without struggling over a wide foreshore of half-burnt tangled grass. Track crosses a khor.

1 23½

Debba Berdan 6 29½

Ferik

1¼ 30¾ Sheep ferik of Selim Baggara.

Debba 2 32¾ On left of track. Good level ground and park-like land; excellent going under foot. Owing to the track being at a considerable distance from the river, and the khors not all having water in them, it is advisable to travel about this country with a guide, as certain spots are known to the Arabs as camping grounds, where generally a large ardeb tree is to be found with water close at hand. First sight of the jebel from here.

Debba Berdan 2¼ 35 Another debba of this name. Country bushy.

Debba Aliang

3½ 38½ Track now runs generally between the forest on the left and khor on right. A wide khor all along here on the right, then a thick belt of trees between it and the river.

6½ 45

2 47 The khor here runs into the river—a considerable amount of water in it for the last 10 miles.

Meshra Meteima

⅛ 47⅛ An excellent meshra at low Nile, and not at all impossible at high. After having pushed through about 80 yards of reeds, the high sandy bank is reached and access gained to the inland track, which is excellent all the year round. Jebel Ahmed Agha opposite. River about 1,000 yards wide here. Following the ordinary track this is the first time that the river water can be obtained after leaving Kaka. Selim Baggara ferik about ½ mile inland here in bush. Track from here northwards runs through a fine forest for about 6 miles, when it debouches on to wide river foreshore.

Ferik

6⅜ 53½ Sheep ferik of Selim Arabs in bush.

Khor Nagor 2¼ 55¾ A khor is crossed here which is an obstacle to any transport except carriers all the year round, having a water channel of about 8 feet, and a depth of 5 feet, choked with grass. This khor bends round northwards and joins the river just S. of Meshra Alwat (right bank) (which is a name however but little known to the Arabs, who generally speak of it as the “Balad Selim Bangan”). The track follows this khor inland, as the “island,” or ground between it and the river, though dry in the dry season, is exceedingly bad going for animals and men, owing to cracks and rank grass.

Ferik

6½ 62¼ Track strikes the khor again. A small ferik under a well-known Selim Arab, Yasin, a little grey-headed man.

Debba Tebeldia 1½ 63¾ Track crosses the khor here. This country being practically uninhabited—and full of game—is a haunt of lions. I saw three when marching along the track all within 100 yards of each other. The Jackson’s Hartebeeste is to be obtained here also. Track now runs on left side of khor; thick forest all round.

Debba Nabagaia 4¾ 68½ High open debba left; this is the Nabagaia district. Country now changes generally to bush, with, as a rule, a belt of trees somewhere between the track and the river.

5 73½

Minadak

1½ 75 A fair meshra; opposite Alwat. Selim ferik about ¾ mile inland in bush. Just inland of the bush there extends a vast plain covered with thorn, scrub, and grass, and abounding with game.

Debba Megabr 7½ 82½ Left, and a Selim ferik just S. of it.

Ferik

3 85½ Another Selim ferik; wide khor on right of track.

1 86½ Khor close to track; big ardeb tree, and mid-day camp.

1 87½ A branch of the river is visible about 300 yards off on right. Track is now alternately sandy and good and cracked and very bad; the latter state owing to the number of shallow khors the track passes over. Country bushy.

Ardeb Aliga

12 99½ Near river bank. Good camping ground, as there is little shade to be got, except under these (to the Arabs) well-known ardeb trees.

Ardeb Matemenat

2¾ 102¼ Another big ardeb tree. Shortly after this the track descends on to the foreshore and continues thus to opposite Renk, where there is a fair meshra in the dry season only.

Renk

3¾ 106

Hasoia

4¾ 110¾ Arab encampments. Island of Hasoia here also. The track winds monotonously through interminable kittr bush, generally within reach of the river. Selim feriks thick for the next 17 miles; but as they are only temporary, and change every year, it is not worth while marking them all down.

Debba El Tor 23¼ 134 On left of track.

Um Ashrin 2½ 136½ Bush very thick here. Island of Waka (Bulli) stated to be opposite here. (This was the name given by the Arabs on this occasion, and probably differs from any other known name.)

Meshra

4½ 141 Meshra used by the Arabs during the dry season.

El Ardeb

22 163 Meshra, and Selim encampments, opposite Jebelein, bearings of the two chief peaks of which 114° and 70° respectively. This is the chief meshra of the Selim people, as it leads to their villages, which are about 15 miles inland opposite Jebelein.

Примечание. — Информация о пути от Ренка до Джебелейна взята из отчета Эль-М. А. Саида Эфф. Нур-эль-Дина, офицера полиции, Ренк.

80. — ОТ ОМДУРМАНА ДО КОЛОДЦЕВ ЭЛЬ-САФИЯ.

Майор Н. М. Смит-бей, V.C., Королевский гвардейский полк, ноябрь и декабрь 1901 г.

Большая часть местности между Омдурманом и Эль-Сафией настолько бесплодна, что пастбища очень ограничены по площади, а население настолько редкое, что протоптанные тропы встречаются только вблизи мест водопоя.

Большая часть местности покрыта низким кустарником самр, который из-за нехватки дождей в этом году стоит без листвы и дает мало тени. Сухие деревья обеспечивают обильный запас топлива. Многие колодцы частично заполняются наносным песком или илом, приносимым просачивающейся водой, их можно быстро очистить. Запас воды во всех колодцах зависит от количества осадков.

Примечание. — Поскольку четко определенных путей нет, а расстояния измерены по карте, они, вероятно, все занижены. — Г. Г. С. М.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Omdurman — — Leaving the town the route bears a little S. of W. over hard sandy soil. A little low scattered bush. Jebel Duieim Serob (?) is left to the S. Sand hills are met. Some samr bush.

Um Hei 27 27 Old wells.

Um Teital

7 34 Twenty wells in red clay, all dry. Water is found after ordinary rainfall at 15 feet, but often fails about February. Shobil wells, 30, all dry, are 3 miles to the N., and Abd El Mokeit, 20 wells, where water drains in slowly at 12 feet through red clay, are 6 miles to the N.

The country here belongs to the Walad Ogba section of the Kababish, who have much cultivation in the neighbourhood. Abd El Mokeit wells water 500 sheep daily.

The route bears due W. over undulating country.

Melh El Maagil 21½ 55½ A pool in Khor Mogaddam, 100 yards by 10 yards, lasts till January. A mile W. several similar pools exist after good rainfall. There are some salt licks a mile to the S.E.

There is now some track in the wadi bearing S.W. Sayal bush.

Bag Bag

12 67½ Pool in wadi, dry in November. The old wells fallen in. N. of them are two groups of 15 open wells, half a mile apart, in the bed of the wadi. Copious water at 15 feet.

The route now bears nearly N.W. over undulating country, little bush.

Habisa

24 91½ Id El Kebir, 50 wells of good water 15 feet deep. The other wells here are—El Khirwa, 20 wells, 15 feet deep, good water, and Neimura, 40 wells, depth 25 feet, all dry November, 1901.

Id El Gurud

5 96½ Due W. and higher up the khor is a group of 3 wells, dry. One mile W. a group of 15 wells in bed of a sandy wadi; at a depth of 15 feet copious water. This water is said to have been first discovered by Arabs finding water holes scratched in the sand after rain by the apes that exist in the neighbourhood.

There is now a slight track which bears W.N.W. as far as J. Khashm El Kelb, which is left to the N., and then bears W. and W.S.W. over broken ground.

Derota

40½ 137 Thirty wells, all dry except one. Eight feet deep on rock, bed kept open by foxes burrowing in the sand.

Three miles to the W. the Haraza-Dongola road is in the Wadi Bitit. The country is undulating and in places stony, and several wadis are crossed; general direction W.

El Safia (Um Geiti)

35 172 Um Geiti wells. The wells are situated on the E. side of a plain which is surrounded by hills. The wells are: (1) Um Geiti, depth 13 feet, good water, considered inexhaustible. Two hundred more have fallen in. Five hundred camels and oxen are watered daily. In the driest season thousands of cattle are watered here. (2) Id El Serajab, 30 wells, not in use, but only need clearing out to afford a water supply.

81. — ОТ ДЕББЫ ДО ЭЛЬ-ОБЕЙДА ЧЕРЕЗ ВАБРИ, ЭЛАЙ, САФИЮ И КАГМАР.

Г-н Джеймс Карри, апрель 1903 г.

Маршрут от Деббы до Эль-Обейда используется мало, даже во время харифа, когда воды сравнительно много. В этот сезон несколько торговцев возят финики в Эль-Обейд, возможно, возвращаясь с гуммиарабиком в обмен. Участок маршрута от Деббы до Сафии подвержен изменениям в зависимости от прихоти нанятого проводника, а также времени года. Некоторые предпочитают маршрут Ум-Белила — Эль-Амри — Хобаги — Хараза, не заходя в Сафию, в то время как другие в сухой сезон едут через Вабри, Индераб, Гумр, Гамбар, Хабису, Багбаг и Кагмар.

Описанная ниже тропа была хорошо размечена на всем протяжении, но из-за нехватки воды она была бы трудной, по крайней мере в самый сухой сезон, для группы из более чем двадцати пяти верблюдов. Тени и дров в изобилии на всем пути.

В следующем отчете упомянуты только те места на дороге, где была хоть какая-то вода.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Debba — — Left Debba at 6 p.m.; country desert with a good deal of mimosa; went about 11 miles and stopped at Bir Kufra, no water but guides stated it existed not far from surface.

Bir Kufra (1) 11 11

Bir Kufra (2) 10 21 Continued due S. at 6 a.m.; mimosa ceased, softish sand and sand hills, stopped at 10 a.m., at another old well, Bir Kufra (2), but guides state water non-existent at any depth. Resumed at 4 p.m. and entered big khor running N., Bir Gelud Abid. Many trees and dry grass. Off at 6 a.m. Entered Khor Magakha and went on for 4 hours; arrived at Bir Abu Sayal, three old water holes, no water (April, 1903), stopped there at 10 a.m.; resumed at 4 p.m., passing on E. of path Bir Gelud, another old empty water hole. J. Abu Heglig here appears on E. of path. Stopped at 8.30 p.m. Off at 4.30 a.m.; arrived at Wabri 9.30 a.m. Country for 4 or 5 miles before Wabri very stony and barren; three-stone-lined wells and abundance of water and grazing. A certain number of Hawawir Arabs watering their flocks, and a few camels.

Wabri

53 74

Bir Kernak

13 87 Off at 5.10 a.m. for Bir Kernak. This well is a bit E. of direct road to Elai. Arrived at 10.10 a.m. Two stone-lined wells about 12 feet deep with abundance of water.

Hassanai

10 97 Off at 4.30 p.m. in a south-westerly direction; rode for 3½ hours up Wadi Kernak and arrived at Hassanai, where there are a few Arab families. There is a hofra here, where a little water is to be found, but all camels are watered at Elai or Kernak.

Elai

13 110 Left Hassanai 5.30 a.m. and rode up Wadi Hassanai, crossed over rocky pass and arrived at Elai at 10.10 a.m. Two stone-lined wells (several disused ones) about 12 feet deep, but contain little water and take 5 hours to fill, about 4 feet in diameter, and want cleaning out very badly.

Stayed at Elai during morning. A long business watering my camels. Left at 2.30 p.m. for Safia, went on till 7 p.m. Three small hills to E. of track chief land-mark. Gazelle here very numerous.

Khor Hobagi — — Off at 2.30 a.m., halted at 8.30 a.m. W. of J. Mutmir. Went on 4 hours in evening due S. Off at 5.30 a.m., entered Khor Hobagi about 7 a.m. through a very rough agaba. About 9 a.m. passed a hofra which contains water during rains. This is the so-called well of Hobagi; halted 10.15 a.m.

Country very much dried up and very little grazing. Went on in afternoon from 3 p.m. till 8.30 p.m.

Safia

85 195 Off at 2 a.m.; reached Safia at 12 noon. Abundant supply of water from many wells. Numerous ril or addra gazelle, also tracks of wild sheep. Country rocky, much shut in and heat excessive. Much the hardest part of journey.

Stayed at Safia all day, 30 to 40 wells, but not a great deal of water in each. Water about 20 feet from surface. Many Kababish Arabs and a considerable number of camels, cattle and sheep; gazelle very numerous.

Off at 5.30 p.m. for Kagmar, viâ, Haraza hills, where I was told there was water; went S.E. and stopped for night at 7.30 p.m.

J. Haraza — — Off at 4.30 a.m. and arrived at J. Haraza at 8.30 a.m. Road very bad. To get to these hills one digresses some 15 miles from direct road to Kagmar, and strikes the range of hills about the middle. There are two wells, but one, Bir Shungul, is high up among the hills and is reached by a very rough track. The second is Bir Sani, 150 feet deep. I think the digression to these wells was a mistake, and would recommend the direct road.[29]

Bir Sani

— —

This range of hills is inhabited by Nubas, of whom there are said to be some 250. There is certain amount of cultivation.

Travelled 5.7 in the evening.

Travelled towards Kagmar all day, passing J. Hadid on W. of path, and towards evening catching sight of J. Atshan on the E.

Kagmar

81 276 Arrived at Kagmar in the evening, having passed on E. of track J. Atshan and J. Royan.

Water plentiful from here to El Obeid, vide Routes 71 and 83.

Bara

48 324

El Obeid

38 362

82. — ОТ ШЕГЕЙГА ДО ЭЛЬ-ШОВЫ ЧЕРЕЗ КАГМАР.

Капитан У. Ллойд, ноябрь 1902 г.

Этот маршрут в настоящее время используется мало, хотя на всем протяжении есть хорошо выраженная тропа. Он является частью старой дороги в Дарфур и сейчас используется торговцами, направляющимися в Нахуд. Из Эль-Шовы они едут в Ум-Шидеру, а оттуда, напоив верблюдов, в Шаллоту и Нахуд.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Shegeig

— — Leaving Zerga wells (where there is a large fula in the rains), the track is at first hard to pick up owing to the numerous cattle tracks about. Going nearly due W., Fula Naima is first seen and then Fula Bereinku, 5 miles from Zerga wells. The track then goes along a level ridge to the northern shoulder of J. Derish. Good going, plenty of shade and grazing.

Fula Um Sunta 31 31 A small pool on the N. side of the road. Crossing the ridge, the ground becomes gravelly and in places stony, for next 6 miles. Kittr bush and a few meika trees then appear and shade becomes rare. The road crosses Wadi El Kigeira and Wadi El Luggud, both of which are swampy in the rains; several salt workings are passed.

F. Shershar 20 51 A small pool. Sayal bush now commences and is thick in places to near Um Sayala, when the track becomes difficult to follow.

Um Sayala

7½ 58½ A small Jaalin village with one excellent well ½ mile S. Good shade near village. Leaving the village there are two tracks, one to Um Heimeira, one to Id Sabil. The latter is the shorter.

Id Sabil

8 66½ An excellent well 120 feet deep, belonging to Sheikh Abd El Nebi Masud, a Baghdadi. Two hundred yards N. of the well is a clump of dom palms which form a good land mark.

The whole way to Kajmar from here there is little or no shade. The soil is red sand with plenty of grass and marakh bush.

Old Um Sayala 5 71½ Now in ruins. From here there is a track going S.W. to J. Maganus.

Fadlia

6½ 78 A small Walad Dagoi village, one good well. From here there are roads to Abu Tabr and J. Maganus. Leaving the well, there is at first no track, but J. Atmur is seen in front.

J. Atmur 6 84 A small quartz rock with fula and good shade on the S. side. Good track.

Um Guerfa (Hella El Sheikh) 15 99 A large village with two excellent wells, 95 feet deep, at which several hundred sheep and goats water daily; there are several small hellas near. Leaving the main hella, a good well is passed 1 mile on, and another 2 miles beyond.

Harais Well

5½ 104½ A good well belonging to the Zaghawa village 1 mile N. of road. From here J. Gahania is seen due W. The direct road crosses the col between the two most northerly hills.

Gahania

8½ 113 A Zaghawa village on the N. side of jebel. The wells (one sweet, remainder salt) are 1 mile S. of the jebel. Thence to J. Kagmar there are many heglig trees, but all grass is eaten down soon after the rains by the large herds watered.

Kagmar

6 119 A Zaghawa village. The wells are on the S. side of the jebel at the bottom of Wadi El Sigai. Plenty of good shade and grazing in the wadi. Leaving the wells, the track goes over a bare plain for 4 miles. The country then becomes undulating for 5 miles. Steep soft sandy hills. Marakh on the hills, sayal in the bottoms. Bad going. The remainder of the road to Shershar is over nearly level country. Bush thick in places.

Shershar Wells

16 135 The wells, 40 feet deep, are excellent, with good shade and grazing. The villages are to the W. Leaving the wells, the road passes three villages and many salt wells, and then trends S.W. through slightly undulating country, little shade, heavy going.

Um Hashim Bakhit

10 145 Two small Ferharana villages with two wells 130 feet deep. Much cultivation. Passing a hella called Rubshan, much sayal bush is seen.

Wad Medina

6 151 A large village, Sheikh Mohammed Wad Medina, four good wells and much cultivation.

Um Hashim Simaui

7 158 Good track, over level country. At this village there is a good well. Sheikh Timsa Simaui, a Hababin Arab. The track continues in a south-westerly direction to

El Showa

10½ 168½ Two villages with a very good well. From there there are roads, W. to El Gleit or Um Shidera and S. to El Obeid. The bush in the vicinity consists of marakh and sayal. Plenty of grazing.

83. — ОТ БАРЫ ДО КАГМАРА.

Капитан У. Ллойд, март 1900 г.; с дополнениями в декабре 1903 г.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Bara — — Road at first through much ushur bush N. by E. Slightly undulating country; good track.

El Hadid

15 15 One good well, 60 feet, and small Faharana village. Track crosses several ridges until a large well-defined one is crossed called El Khran, then along the base. Marakh and nabbag bush; little shade.

J. Homra

23 38 Small jebel; on S.W. side there is a small Dar Hamid village, and two wells 10 feet deep; good water. Track passes E. of jebel. Open country; little shade.

J. Filleiha 6 44 Low rock jebel, sand much piled up on N. side. On S. side, a Dar Hamid village and well 10 feet deep. Many old wells. Dom palms and castor oil plants. Good shade. Track passes to E. of jebel in Wadi El Sigai, between low ridges. J. Kagmar seen in front; good track. Some shade and good grazing.

Kagmar

7½ 51½ Small Zaghawa village. Many wells 10 to 20 feet deep; water practically unlimited. Many Kababish camps near, and hundreds of camels water daily. Good grazing in the wadi, none elsewhere. Onions procurable from garden near wells. Much cultivation.

84. — ОТ ЭЛЬ-ОБЕЙДА ДО ФОГИ ЧЕРЕЗ МАСРУБ.

Капитан У. Ллойд, октябрь 1900 г.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Obeid — — The road leaves the town in a north-westerly direction over sandy ground. On reaching the high ground, J. Meitan and J. Abu Sinun are seen in line. Track good, bush not very thick. A few bad places in the rains.

The road leads to the S. end of

J. Abu Sinun 22 22 J. Abu Sinun. Here there are two fulas, both about 100 yards by 50 yards, but shallow and will soon be dry. There is a deep crack on the S. side of the jebel in a rock, known to the arabs, which now contains a good deal of water, buckets and ropes are required. There is now no track. Thick bush. J. Um Shidera can be seen to the N.W. from the high ground S. of the jebel.

Hella Shiheita 15½ 37½ A small Baza hella; no well. There is now a good track.

Hella Ushut 3 40½ A small Nimr hella; no wells; track good.

Um Shidera

10½ 51 The wells are in a hollow S.W. of the jebel, eight good wells open, 30 feet deep, plenty of water, many old wells. The hella is ¾ mile N.W. People belong to Dar Hamid. The track now turns nearly N.N.W.

El Gleit 13½ 64½ A small hella, Dar Hamid. The wells are in a hollow ¾ mile N., at the base of the jebel. Ten wells open, 25 feet deep; good water, but not very plentiful; many old ones about. There is a road from here to El Sheg. The track now goes N. and N. by W. for 11 miles, and then W. over hard red sand.

Masrub 15 79½ A small hella, Dar Hamid, just built.

Masrub Wells

4½ 84 The track goes N. to the wells; two good wells, 5 feet in diameter, 30 feet deep; eight old ones near.

There is now no track. March N.W. for 6 miles, and then W. through level country, with little bush over red sandy soil. At the 14th mile a ridge (running N. and S.) 50 or 60 feet high is ascended. There is now a good track (J. Um Hashas is N.N.E.) over undulating ground. Two miles beyond the ridge the road turns S.W.

J. Idris 35 119 A hill 100 feet high; 1½ miles from N. to S., the track goes over the col between two peaks.

Bur Islam

15½ 134½ Eight fulas 20 to 30 yards in diameter, and 4 or 5 feet deep; water reported to last three months, then wells are dug a few feet deep, but water never lasts until the rains. Several Hamar hellas near. Bur Islam is a low lying place, swampy in the rains. “Bur” means uncultivated.

There is no track, the direction is nearly W. and W.S.W., through bush for 31 miles, when a good track is struck.

Um Sayala

35 169½ A small Hamar village; no well; tebeldi trees. People get water from near J. Bishara Taib. Good track N.W., past a fula now nearly dry, 100 yards by 80 yards. There are many old wells.

J. Bishara Taib 4 173½ The track goes over a col, N. of the highest peak, through some old stone walls, said to have been Fung fortifications. Good track.

Hella Ibrahim 1½ 175 Small Hamar hella, water from Foga. Good track.

Foga

1½ 176½ Foga wells; these wells consist really of a series of fulas, 30 to 40 feet in diameter; there are over 30 in a depression. When the water gives out the people dig wells in the bottom, and these supply water for the rest of the year.

The only ruins of the old town I could find, were two small houses said to have been the telegraph office and magazine. The old telegraph line cannot be traced. Vide R.’s 85 and 87.

Примечание. — Говорят, что вся эта дорога проходима для верблюдов в сезон дождей, но, вероятно, возникнет немало трудностей в 8 милях от Эль-Обейда, возле Абу-Синуна и возле Бур-Ислама.

85. — ОТ ЭЛЬ-ОБЕЙДА ДО ФОГИ ЧЕРЕЗ УМ-ШЕММУ, ГЛЕЙТ, МАСРУБ И ГУРАДИ.

Капитан Б. К. Картер, Ланкаширские стрелки, март 1902 г.

Этот маршрут длиннее, чем маршрут 84, но здесь больше воды.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

El Obeid — — The track is difficult to pick up in leaving El Obeid, but fairly good afterwards. Country slightly rolling and open. Soil light sand, and good going. Grazing good. Fairly grassed. At Um Shemma three wells, broken; 100 to 120 feet deep. Seem to water a good many cattle. Wells 3 miles beyond village.

Um Shemma

32 32

El Sheg or Gebir

19 51 No track at first over rolling country, fairly open. Marakh bushes and talh. Seven miles from wells, a broad track is cut running to El Sheg or Gebir. Two or three scattered villages with cultivation. Good water supply from the wells 160 feet deep. Seem to water a lot of goats and sheep.

El Gleit

17 68 I believe there is a good track all the way to El Gleit[30], but my guide lost his way. Country dips down and becomes rather close thornbush to within about 6 miles of El Gleit, when it opens again. Scattered villages and cultivation. Many wells in a khor, some salt. Water supply permanent but scanty; should water twenty camels. Good view of surrounding country from the jebel which seems to be called Angag or Gleit.

Masrub Wells

18 86 Broad track to Masrub through open country, little grass, talh, hashab and heglig; two small villages. Wells in khor, three in number, 11 feet. Water supply scanty. It took 3 hours to water nine camels. No grazing this year. From here there is no water till Guradi.

Guradi or Abu Agaga

47 133 No track. First point is J. Um Has Has. Rolling open country. A lot of heglig trees near the jebel. J. Katul and Kaja visible all the way. Passing Wadi Melowa the country rises gently. Two paths are crossed. The first comes from J. Subari where the people get salt. The second goes from Katul to Nahud. No water save in tebeldi trees from Um Has Has, J. Selatia. From this ridge the two small jebels of Guradi, behind which lie the wells are visible. Below the ridge is a shallow depression about 2 miles across which becomes a fula in the rains and should hold a lot of water. Country all much the same open and rolling in parts. Light sandy soil. About a dozen wells lie close together 20 feet deep. Water comes slowly. Might water a company of Camel Corps if wells were seized over night, but ordinarily not more than 15 or 20 camels. Grazing poor. Tracks lead to Kaja and Hofra. Latter village has no water. Bir Soderi water plentiful.

Foga

70 203 From Guradi to Foga no water. Country rolling open steppe. Very heavy going for about 8 miles before reaching track between Hofra and Foga. This line is evidently shorter and better than the old road. No track at first but steering easy as J. Nagut is always visible. Track when reached is broad and well worn. From J. Sheikh El Rifa going becomes much easier, nearly all shok is avoided by this route. At Foga many wells, but water scarce after January. Vide R.’s 84 and 87.

86. — ОТ АБУ-АГАГИ ДО БАРЫ.

Капитан Дж. Р. О’Коннелл, январь 1902 г.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Abu Agaga — — Marching due E., after 6 miles, pass J. Selatia. No track, bare plain; then march a little E. of S. on J. Um Has Has.

J. Um Has Has 27 27 After passing the jebel, turn due S. through thick bush.

Masrub

14 41 A small village. Two wells, 20 feet deep, good water. Ten and a half hours from Abu Agaga. Leaving Masrub and marching due E., after 15 miles, one passes south of Jebel Muaiga to

Megeinis 24 65 Megeinis, a village. No water, people use melons instead. About 1½ miles north of the village are two small hills. Five and a half hours from Masrub; no track.

Leaving a track leads due E. through thick bush.

Um Daioka

15 80 A village of Arafia Arabs. Wells 1 mile N. of village called Lowai; 100 feet deep, plenty of water, but not good. Three and a half hours from Megeinis. Track now goes N.E.

Rubshan

9 89 Village. Water good. Track turns S.E. through thick bush.

Marra

8 97 Village of Arafia Arabs. Shiekh, Ahmed Omar. Water not good. Track goes N.E.

Khar Tauil

11 108 Good water in plenty near surface: gardens, old fig and lime trees; a few vines. A few Danagla live here. Six and a half hours from Um Daioka.

Bara

10 118 A broad track goes due E. over high ridges of red sand to Bara. No trees. Two and a half hours from Khor Tauil.

87. — ОТ ФОГИ ДО КАДЖИ (БИР-СОДЕРИ).

Полковник Б. Махон, C.B., D.S.O., декабрь 1901 г.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Foga — — There are no people actually living on the site of the old Mamuria, but there are several Hamar hellas close by. Foga is a good military position as there are several small sand hills which command the surrounding country, which used to be open, but is now more or less covered with bush of recent growth. There are the remains of hundreds of old wells which can be opened with a little labour, and water got at from 50 feet to 90 feet. People say that in the old days water was obtained close to the surface, but that is not so now; I fancy it was rain-water. In the dry weather the people from Kaja Serrug (14 miles) get water from Foga. The old road between Foga and Kaja is quite “dead,” but there is a good road between Kaja Serrug and Kaja.

J. Abu Dugeia 16 16 From Foga you travel N.N.E. about 16 miles with no track until you strike the road from Kaja Serrug, near J. Abu Dugeia. This is all through undulating sandy country covered with bush; very good grazing ground for camels.

J. Esmein 4 20 A small rocky hill on right of track, after this road dips into valley; soil clay, ground flat, thick bush.

8 28 Small rocky range of hills on left of road runs parallel with it for 2 miles; country fairly open and undulating.

Khor Neilut Um Kasus 5 33 After this, country becomes more open and intersected with small khors which are thickly wooded; ground sandy and a good lot of stones and rock.

Khor Gelti 11 44 Rather broken ground; road good, thick bush; direction changes here E.N.E.

Um Gelti

4 48 This is a well, 80 feet deep, sunk in bottom of dry basin, very little water and bad.

2 50 Here the bush country ceases and track leads E.N.E. and E. over sand dunes, very heavy for camels; very few trees or shade, but lots of grazing, until J. Bakalai is reached.

J. Bakalai 21 71 The road passes N. side of J. Bakalai and runs nearly E. to Kuku. Um Abu Agaga is 6 miles S.S.W. of J. Bakalai—a very indistinct track leading to it—but it can be recognised by groups of small hills (rocks): well is near the furthest one. This is a good well and has water all the year, but would not water more than nine camels at a time.

Kuku

19 90 Kuku is a village (two villages) of blacks on the northern side of J. Kuku. These people have a lot of land under cultivation, but this year all their crops failed. They have no wells but a good supply of water in tanks on the mountains. These tanks are more or less natural but have been widened and improved by manual labour, and very large rocks must have been removed at some time to make them; the people now know nothing about how they were originally made or have they any tools to do like work now. All the Kaja district is covered with the remains of old villages: it must have been at one time very thickly populated.

Kaja Soderi

7 97 Is 7 miles off to the E.; road runs along N. side of mountains for 4 miles, then crosses, and the wells are on the S. side. Here there is a plentiful supply of water: wells from 18 feet to 30 feet. During the kharif there is a large lake here and the wells are sunk annually in its bed.

The whole country between Foga and Kaja is very suitable for camels and the Arabs graze thousands there during the rainy season and until the fulas dry up.

88. — ОТ НАХУДА ДО ЭЛЬ-ФАШЕРА.

До Дам-Джамада — капитан Б. К. Картер, далее — из местных источников.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Nahud — —

See routes 19 and 30. Nahud is about 310 miles from El Dueim.

Wad Bokhari 2 2

Large Gowama village. Wide track, sandy soil. No thick bush.

Wad Shukab 6 8

Small Hamar village. Water from Nahud and melons.

Daglos 10 18

Small Hamar village. A few tebeldis.

Baruda 4½ 22½

Ditto.

Track now crosses several sandy ridges.

Wad Banda

14½ 37

Large Hamar village. Many tebeldi trees. People sell water to travellers. The price varies from 10 burmas for 1 piastre to 10 piastres for 1 burma (burma equals a large stable bucket). In some places the track now becomes heavy owing to soft sand.

Sheraya 10 47 ⎫

⎪

⎪

⎬

⎪

⎪

⎭ All small places. Here the sand hills open out at intervals into circular flats which are cultivated. The people go to Um Shanga when the water supply from the melons and tebeldis is exhausted. Country fairly open and going good.

Um Karra 4½ 51½

Daira 2½ 54

Hagera 1 55

Kajana 2 57

Dam Jamad

16 73

Small Hamar hella on the frontier. There are 3 other hellas near. Water from tebeldis.

Darfur is now entered.

El Ogud

24 97

Three wells about 100 feet deep; water plentiful. Inhabitants are Fors.

Jebel El Hella

10 107

Two wells nearly 200 feet deep; water plentiful. A detachment of three companies of Ali Dinar’s army is quartered here.

A road from Omdurman viâ Kaja joins here.

Burush

13 120

Small Berti village. Four wells about 100 feet deep; plenty of water.

Um Kadada

15 135

One large well about 110 feet deep, or more, but 20 feet of water at the bottom. This depth of water is said to be constant.

Abiad

25 160

A Geleidat village. Four wells about 90 feet deep; water plentiful.

Ergud

30 190

Many wells, water plentiful.

Fashar

30 220

Two wells 150 feet deep; water plentiful in rainy season.

El Fasher 16 236

Capital of Darfur, see Vol. I, p. 192.

By road and river, therefore, El Fasher is about 670 miles from Khartoum. Between El Obeid and El Ogud, the first wells in Darfur, water is very scarce in the dry season.

89. — ОТ НАХУДА ДО БУР-ИСЛАМА.

Капитан К. Г. Таунсенд, с 18 по 25 декабря 1901 г.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Nahud — — The track leaves Nahud in a northerly direction, very soon turning N.N.E. The country is fairly wooded and flat, and covered with long grass in most places.

Abu Marega

12½ 12½ Road still running N.N.E., passes through this village. It is inhabited by the Hamar tribe and is fair sized. Water from tebeldis but the supply is limited, melons fairly plentiful.

Ahmed Hamdan

29½ 42 Leaving Abu Marega the track winds about, but its general direction is N.N.E. by N. Country rather undulating and fairly wooded. About 4 miles before reaching Ahmed Hamdan, one leaves the main track, which runs N.E. to Homedo, and branches off N.E., passing through wooded and undulating country.

Ahmed Hamdan is a small Hamar village belonging to Ahmed Salam, the Sheikh being Wad Hamdan. Water from tebeldis, which are few in number; good supply of small melons.

Wad Kitna 6 48 From Ahmed Hamdan track runs N.W., country hilly and wooded. Wad Kitna, a very small Hamar village belonging to Ahmed Salam. From here Jebel Um Rarib is about 12 miles W.

(Returning I did not touch at this place or Ahmed Hamdan, as they are off the main road.)

Homedo 3 51 Between Wad Kitna and this the track gradually works round N. again and joins the main track close to this village. The Country is wooded but less hilly. Homedo is a small village of Hamar people. Water from tebeldis, supply scanty.

Id? 2 53 Track runs N. slightly E., and is well defined. This is a small Hamar village.

Wad Bakhit

17 70 Road runs N. slightly E., through fairly wooded and slightly undulating country, passing two small Hamar villages, Mekin and Wad El Beleb, both Hamar, belonging to Abdel Rahim Bey Abu Dagal, to Wad Bakhit, a fair-sized Hamar village under Sheikh Ibrahim Ahmed, and belonging to Abu Dagal. There is a very good supply of tebeldi water here.

Bur Islam

19 89 Path runs N.N.E., country wooded and undulating, 4 miles from Wad Bakhit one passes a small Hamar village, Adam Ahmed, belonging to Abu Dugal to whom Bur Islam also belongs, the Sheikh at the latter place being Ahmed El Kagauri. From here Kaja is 1½ days N. There are wells close to this village, but the supply of water is limited, owing to the bottom of the wells being rocky, and there are no implements to cut through it.

90. — ОТ НАХУДА ДО ФОГИ.

Капитан У. Ллойд, октябрь 1900 г.; и майор Э. Б. Уилкинсон, декабрь 1901 г.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Nahud — — The whole of the road runs through the Hamar country.

Bokari 4 4 Leaving the suk in a north-westerly direction the track runs through the Gowama village named Bokari.

Jebel El Kurma 4¼ 8¼ Two hills W. of track; to the E. of the northernmost hill is the village of Shekaba, 80 huts.

Hella Wad Munfarih 2½ 10¾ A small Hamar village, 30 to 40 huts. Track continues in same direction till the Hamar village of Darglos is reached. The country between Nahud and this village is open bush with some good trees for timber, but most of the bush consists of gnarled and twisted ebony bushes of no value. From here track trends more to W. till village Bakoda is reached. Range of hills, Jebel Barshom, to N.N.E. of latter village.

Darglos 6¾ 17½

Bakoda 6½ 24

El Gubba 10½ 34½ Track now runs N. to Hella El Gubba with Jebel Selako to E., and on to

Kinneir 2¼ 36¾ Hella Kinneir, 10 huts.

Gemania 1½ 38¼ Hella Gemania, 20 huts.

Abu Rasein 3 41¼ Hella Abu Rasein, 5 huts.

Hamdan Tumbel 5½ 46½ Track runs N.N.E. to Hella Hamdan Tumbel, 12 huts.

Gabra 7 53½ Track runs N. to Hella Gabra (no wells exist), and Hella Zarzur, when track runs N.W. until Hella Um Bel is reached. J. Biraish to W. Two wells giving a fair amount of water, and many hellas draw their supply from here.

Zarzur 2½ 56

Um Bel

4½ 60½

J. Um Bel 1½ 62

Galusa — — Track now runs N. to Hella Galusa, 20 huts, and then on to

Foga

7¼ 69¼ Foga. See route 87.

Все деревни между Нахудом и Хамдан-Тумбелем получают воду из деревьев тебельди. В Габре и Зарзуре воду берут из Ум-Беля. Возле каждой деревни есть некоторое количество посевов дурры и дынь, но других припасов, кроме нескольких цыплят, нет.

Между Нахудом и Фогой для любого отряда нет воды, и в Ум-Беле можно напоить не более десяти верблюдов, не лишая жителей их ежедневного запаса. В этом году (1901) из-за засухи урожая арбузов нет.

Местность в целом холмистая и покрыта густым кустарником. Хорошая дорога.

91. — ОТ ФОГИ ДО УМ-БАДРА.

Майор Э. Б. Уилкинсон, декабрь 1901 г.

Фога. — В ¾ мили к юго-западу от холма, который сейчас превращен в оборонительный пост, находятся колодцы. В настоящее время (1901 г.) есть девять колодцев, дающих воду, и арабы племен хамар и каджа открывают новые. Я произвел точные замеры глубины колодцев, она варьируется от 50 до 80 футов ниже поверхности. Вода в настоящее время встречается в очень небольших количествах, ни один колодец не может напоить более 30 верблюдов в сутки.

В сезон дождей арабы выкапывают, и уже много лет выкапывают, неглубокие впадины, которые наполняются водой и позволяют им пережить зиму, достаточную для водопоя их стад; но в этом году из-за очень скудных осадков эти впадины пересохли. [31]

В окрестностях много деревень, состоящих из десяти-пятидесяти хижин. Выращивается дурра, а арабы хамар также держат много страусов, которые в это время года все ощипаны догола. Перья везут в Нахуд, где для них есть хороший рынок.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Foga — — Leaving Foga, track bears N. to Hella Wad Guibara, consisting of about thirty huts (Hamar Arabs), and then track bears N.W. through bush on Jebel El Rimr. Good going through country falling for 3½ miles, when a khor is crossed; direction of drainage, N.E.

Wad Guibara 1½ 1½

Jebel El Rimr 5½ 7 Jebel El Rimr is reached; this is a range of hills running from S.W. to N.E.

Um Goz 6 13½ Track still continues through bush N.W. to Hella Um Goz, which consisted of a village of not more than fifteen huts, but which has recently been burnt by the Furs sent by Sultan Ali Dinar to punish the inhabitants, who are Kajawis. From here an excellent view of the country can be obtained for many miles.

Jebel Zeinat Rowaina 1½ 15 Leaving Hella Um Goz, the track leads on to Jebel Zeinat Rowaina, but at 1½ miles I went through the bush. No track on Jebel Taradid, over country which is intersected with many small water channels (now all dry), but which in the rains would be impassable for animals. Surface, cotton soil with rank dry grass. Flow of water, N.N.E.

Jebel Taradid 7 22 Jebel Taradid, track runs N. through very broken country, ranges of low hills to W. and E. for miles.

Khor Dormaia 4 26 Khor Dormaia of the Kajawis, and the Wadi Melh of the Kababish and Hamar Arabs, I believe, but none of the local Arabs know the name Wadi Melh, and informed me it was far to the N. This khor, 30 to 35 yards broad, takes its course from N.W. in the vicinity of J. El Ain, where there was water (December 4) in khor. There are signs of a big flood coming down in the rains (banks well wooded); current I should say very rapid, and at times impassable, flows N.E., passes J. Habisa, and then bears N.

J. El Sad 3½ 29½ From this point track runs N.N.E. over undulating country, and at 3½ miles J. El Sad is passed, small watercourse passed, and from here track runs N.E.

2 31½

Wadi (?) 4 35½ At this point a large wadi is entered bearing S.W., and the track leads down this N.E to

Um Badr

2½ 38 Um Badr, which consists of a broad wadi varying in breadth up to 800 yards, which is enclosed on either side by hills, and along the bed of which many hundreds of wells and waterholes have been dug in former times. Wells all filled in by rains; three wells were opened and 20 feet down no water obtained, and no sign of water visible.

In years when rain is plentiful, I was informed by Arabs, water is always obtainable at this depth. Appears to be an excellent place for camels.

No sign of recent habitation; but on ridges N.E. are the remains of the scene of the fight between Dervishes and the Kababish belonging to Sheikh Saleh Gelta Kabashi in 1887.

No signs of any caravans having passed recently, and I am informed that none ever do come here owing to there being no water.

92. — ОТ БАРЫ ДО ФОГИ.

Капитан Дж. Р. О’Коннелл, июль 1902 г.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Bara — — Leaving Bara the track goes due W. over high sandy ridges; heavy going to a small village Kidaka, one well.

Kidaka 11 11 The track turns a little to the N. of W., and passing through thick thorny bush leads by a small village, Um Asal, one well. Ten miles further on is Maagla village called Saata. Wells 112 feet deep, good water, a good deal of cultivation.

Um Asal 4 15

El Saata

10 25

Shireiga

10 35 A good level track passing through thick bush leading N. of W., after 10 miles reaches the village of Shireiga (Habbania), one well. Two miles due W. is a small village called El Shegel Gedidat, one well, a good deal of cultivation. The track leads N. of W. for 7 miles through thick gum forest, then ends; one now passes between three hills called Gedidat, two on the south and one on the north, through high grass for 8 miles, then meeting the track going from Shireiga to Geleit, and 11 miles on reaches village of Geleit, near the hill, many wells, little water.

El Shegel Gedidat

2 37

El Geleit

22 59

Masrub

17 76 A good track leads N.W. over open country to Masrub, little water.

Gilgil 10 86 A good track leads to Gilgil, a small village; very little water, not drinkable.

Baraeis 10 96 Due N., no track, to village of Baraeis, no water. Marching S. of W., no track, and passing south of and close to Jebel Asal and over a rolling plain, bad going. Meika, goffal, and heglig trees scattered over the plain. After 40 miles reach Hofra. There are three Nuba villages on the mountain, one about the centre, and two on the southern end; no wells, water bad from pools on north end of hill, no rain this year, people living on meika berries, which they grind and use in lieu of grain. Village is on top of mountain. Leaving Hofra and going due W. struck track near a rock called Mekareik Abu Gadein, 10 miles out, and after another 10 miles passed close to a rock called Sheikh El Rifa. Three miles further on the track turns due S., and after 4 miles reaches Jebel Umfara, and 6 miles further on reaches mountains called Gerawid El Askanut, said to be half way to Foga. Track now turns S. for 10 miles, past Jebel Kanisa on the west and small hills to the east called Ratak, and passes 2 miles on through the hills of Umkosh, and 17 miles on comes to village of Mina in Jebel Bishara Taib, and 3 miles on are the wells and camp; little water and not good. Foga is a district. Vide Route 87.

Hofra 40 136

Foga

65 201

93. — ОТ НАХУДА ДО ЭЛЬ-ЭДДАЙИ И МУГЛАДА.

Полковник Б. Махон, C.B., D.S.O., декабрь 1901 г.

Примечание. — Расстояния приблизительные.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Nahud — — The country round Nahud is sandy and undulating; about 5 miles all round is cleared for cultivation. There are many tebeldi trees which are used for water tanks. There is a very good supply of well water, wells from 30 to 60 feet deep. Population about 3,500, chiefly Hamar Arabs. Vide also later reports.

Hella El Sau

5 5 Hamar village (Hamed Bey Fetin), no wells, but good supply of tebeldi trees. Track is very well defined, being the main road to Shakka, &c., country undulating, heavy going for camels, bush thick.

Hella El Garaui 4 9 Hamar (Hamed Bey Fetin), no wells.

Hella Um Hashaba

3 12 Hamar (Abu Dagal) no wells, but tebeldi trees and water melons.

There are no more villages before El Eddaiya, bush thick, chiefly ebony, bad shade, track good, but heavy going for camels and slightly undulating.

Fula 25 37 There is a large fula here, but it was dry at the beginning of November, very good shade; is a good halting place.

10 47 A broad shallow khor or valley, good shade and some tebeldi trees; after this you cross an open plateau into El Eddaiya, there is good grazing on this plateau and nice shade, a capital camping ground.

El Eddaiya

5 52 Is a large village or collection of hellas, and has a mixed population, Homr (Felaita), Hamar (Abu Dagal), Bederia and Messeria, besides many small merchants (Jaalin, &c.). It is the starting point for merchants for Bahr El Arab, Dar Jange, Dar Fertit and Shakka.

Camels are very little used S. of this.

Water very plentiful and good wells from 8 to 30 feet deep; there are remains of many old gardens, and even now they cultivate onions and other vegetables.

There is a small Government post held by fifty Bashibazuks.

Khor Atrun 3½ 55½ Very good shade, no water but after kharif (rainy season) many fulas. The track is undulating and sandy, but broad and well defined.

Abu Asha and Walad El Seluk 4 59½ Both Bederia hellas, no wells, but tebeldi trees and water melons.

Mumu

7½ 67 This is a district; many hellas, Homr (Felaita), Sheikh Hamed Yassin, several fulas but all dry by middle of November. No wells, some tebeldi trees, much cultivation. After the harvest is gathered and when the water in tebeldi trees is exhausted, the people move near to El Eddaiya. There are no hellas between here and Muglad, it is more or less forest.

6 73 At this point the road branches; the main road goes on to Shakka, but take left-hand one S.S.E. to Um Hagar if you want water.

Um Hagar

8 81 There are here a succession of rocky basins. All had some water, the one furthest S. after the rains must have been a considerable lake, and some years contains water during the whole year, but, I think, will be dry by end of December this year.

1 82

1½ 83½ The track, now very indistinct, runs W.S.W. for 1½ miles, until it rejoins main road which we left at mile 73. Country continues the same until about the 86th mile, when it becomes flat and clay soil; track good and hard going, but all forest.

Um Sidr 14½ 98 Large fula. Road branches at Um Sidr; main road to Shakka S.S.W. is much best and shorter, I took the one to Um Battu, but returned by main road. Gullum now becomes common.

Um Battu

8 106 Three small wells in dry bed of fula, 8 feet deep. These wells could easily be improved, but are not now to be depended on after 15th December. This, like all the following places, was once a village. Country all bush and very little shade except at these fulas, where there are splendid ardeib trees.

Um Gamadi 15 121 A dry fula and was an old village.

Um Gamadi 3 124 Also called Um Gamadi.

Um Kantor 6 130 Dry fula, there was an old village here at some time.

Um Gedir 11½ 141½ Dry fula; very fine ardeib trees here.

Um Malis 4½ 146 Dry fula, same as above.

Khor El Heggis 2 148 Northern boundary of Muglad district; very small khor, but thickly wooded.

1 149 Road branches, take right-hand one S.S.W., the other (main track) S.S.E. is one of the many tracks to the Bahr El Arab.

Um Shanga 1 150 There is water here in khor and some tebeldi trees (but not filled with water), but this year water would be dry by end of December.

3½ 153½ No track for 3½ miles W. through very bushy country, then strike path N.N.W. to Hella Ereiga. From here you strike a well-defined path to Moghrabi.

Hella Ereiga 1½ 155

4 159 Track branches S.W., main track S. to Jange, take right-hand one S.W.

Hella Moghrabi 5 164 This is where Ali Gula, Nazir of the Homr, lives.

Um Moghrabi

2½ 166½ Large fula, plenty of water.

Um Uerst

2½ 169 Large fula and lots of good water. But none of these fulas (or rahads, as they call them) can be relied on after end of December.

There is another road from El Eddaiya further W., it is no longer, but goes through very thick forest, impassable for camels, but there are some wells on this road, and it is used in the dry weather.

Muglad — — Is a district about 50 miles square, two days easy from Shakka and two days from Bahr El Arab.

There are many feriks, but no permanent villages; the people all go to Bahr El Arab as soon as the water gets scarce and the harvest is collected. They store grain on the tops of trees for consumption and seed when they return in the rainy season. Population all Homr (Ageira), there are many Rizeigat and a few Maalia when I was there, but they have returned to Shakka. There is lots of gum in the district, but they do not collect it. Wells can be made at 10 feet, but they make none. I only saw one well (at Um Ardeib). The people are lazy and poor, but they have large herds of cattle and sheep.

94. — ОТ ФОГИ ДО ЭЛЬ-ЭДДАЙИ ЧЕРЕЗ ДЖЕБЕЛЬ-КАДЖА-СЕРРУГ, ДАМДЖАМАД И КОРДОФАН-ДАРФУР.

Капитан Б. К. Картер, январь 1903 г.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Foga — —

Vide Route 28.

J. Kajaserrug — —

This hill is now deserted. There is a broad track running from J. El Hella (Darfur), viâ J. Adashir into Kaja. This was chiefly used, I think, for looted cattle. J. Zerga holds water in the rocks, and there is a khor running, roughly, E. and W., with tebeldi trees, which were filled in the rains. They were still full in January. J. Zumkhor has traces of a wall and brick houses, said to have been built by the Fungs. Also traces of old wells in the wadi. The bricks are good and well-burnt. There are similar buildings on J. Sukunja, W. of Kaja, and also on J. Bishara Taib, E. of Foga.

J. Zerga Mima 9 9

These villages are built on a bare sandy ridge and grow dukhn only. Two miles from Gamania the path joins road from Foga to Damjamad, which latter is a district, including 4 villages of the same name. These people go to Um Shanga when the water supply fails.

Gilatt 4 13

Gamania 3 16

Damjamad

14 30

A fair path, after passing small village of Dunur, goes through some thick thorn, and in about 8 miles descends into Wadi Zernak. This wadi is full of tebeldi trees and may be noted as a base in case of trouble with Darfur. The trees would hold a very large amount of water, but, of course, would have to be filled by hand at the proper time.

Zernak

15 45

Hemir Sibil 15½ 60½

Six miles from Zernak the road quits the tebeldi forest and goes over undulating ridges to Hemir Sibil, which depends entirely on melons. There is a good deal of cultivation.

Tom Wad 11½ 72

A small village dependent chiefly on melons.

Zarug Dagmar 7½ 79½

Fair sized village growing a good supply of dukhn.

Lingu 9½ 89

This district is known as Zalatta, from a rock which holds rain water.

Edam 3 92

Small village.

Gurab 7½ 99½

Small village, deserted early, as melons were scarce. Ridges end and country becomes flat with trees and grass.

Um Reida 8½ 108

Large village with many tebeldis and melons enough to last till next rains. This is in district called Ghabeish.

Good track all the way to El Odaiya.

Gad el Habub 8½ 116½

Small Hamar village. Few tebeldi trees.

Wad Domai 3½ 120

Village.

Abd el Hai 3½ 123½

„

Sharafa

3½ 127

Large Gowama village. Water from tebeldis and from Ogr; a “Hafir” or pond 50 yards in diameter, 8 to 10 feet deep, 2 miles south. It holds water until about January.