«Англо-египетский Судан: Справочник для офицеров правительства Судана, Том 2»

Sherif 2½ 227½ Name of spot only; this name applies to country next two miles.

Wad Nimol Island 3½ 231

Um Romad 3½ 234½ End of district of this name which begins where Sherif ends.

Maghaba

1½ 236 District only; no inhabitants. N. end of Bulli Island begins and track along khor which forms it, water only in places in khor.

Awad El Kerim 2½ 238½ Khor and small hill of this name. Road alternately good and bad from kittr bush.

Debba Goda 3½ 242 J. Abu Garud and Jebelein last visible from here; Sheikhs Tomb on bare hill 50 feet high.

Debba El Ghoda 2¼ 244¼ Small khor; ground slightly undulating and rising inland.

Ganus 8½ 252¾ Bare, open high “debba” 50 feet above track, no inhabitants, only a name.

Karshawal

9¼ 262 No huts or signs of permanent habitations; a few Baggara “rakubas.” End of Bulli Island.

Old camp

3½ 265½ Old entrenched camp about 80 yards by 30 yards on rising ground 200 yards from river on right hand side of track, good meshra.

Karshawal Island 2 267½ Going bad on account of kittr. This is last water before reaching Agang as river makes a bend westwards.

Agang

13 280½ Dinka villages of Nyitau and Manjak, generally called Agang.

Renk

3 283½ Good meshra. Police Post. Mosquitoes here are very bad. Advisable to encamp inland near Dinka villages. Telegraph and Post office here.

42. — РЕНК до СТАРОЙ ДРОВЯНОЙ СТАНЦИИ КАКА (ХЕЛЛЕТ-ЭЛЬ-НЯМ-НЯМ), правый берег.

Капитан Г. Х. Морант, март 1902 г.

Общие сведения. Описанная ниже дорога проходит вдоль берега реки или берегов хоров, прилегающих к реке. После возведения телеграфной линии (1903 г.) дорога вдоль линии используется более часто, будучи более прямой. Говорят, что в сезон дождей используется дорога, идущая от Ренка до Гоз-Каш-Каш, а оттуда до Авитонга — эта дорога, вероятно, отходит от реки примерно на 8–10 миль к западу.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total from Khartoum.

Khartoum — —

Renk

283½ 283½ A meshra on the W. Nile with inspector’s house and police tukls. The road at first leads in a S.E. direction, and after 2 miles Khor Deleib 30 feet wide and about 6 to 10 feet deep is crossed. Another smaller khor, a branch of Deleib, is crossed ½ mile further on. The road now runs alongside a wide khor or branch of the Nile named Gaza El Abiad. The track to Gule branches off in a S.E. direction. Numerous Dinka villages are passed about a mile E. of the road (which is excellent going), and continue at intervals until after passing Sheikh Bakhit Niok’s (a released slave from Cairo) village Warrit ½ mile E. A few Shilluk villages are passed on the island called Wad Ab Kona, formed by Khor Gaza El Abiad and White Nile. This khor at High Nile is probably 300 yards to 600 yards wide, but now (March) it is nowhere more than 300 and fordable nearly everywhere. There are many wild fowl on it. S. of Warrit the people are mostly Selim Baggara living in temporary encampments about a mile inland for the grazing.

Khor Deleib 2 285½

¾ 286¼

Warrit 9 295¼

Um Hedeida

11¼ 306½ The encampments now cease and the water in the khor gradually decreases until at Um Hedeida, water is stagnant and only in small quantities. The country on E. of track which always follows the eastern bank of khor, is covered with 3 feet high grass (where not burnt), and scattered bush and no signs of cultivation are visible.

3 309½ Water reappears in the khor, and there are Selim encampments to the E. of the track.

Leungtom or Domaia

3½ 313 At meshra Leungtom (Dinka) or Domaia (Arab) the Nile is approached again for the first time since Renk. About 1½ miles inland are the villages of Kolang, El Wat, &c., under Sheikh Salem Banga (also a released slave from Cairo). A certain amount of cultivation is visible and the country is tolerably open. Soon after leaving the meshra, the track follows the eastern bank of a khor resembling Gaza El Abiad. The Arab name for it varies with the districts it traverses. The Dinka name was not obtained. On the W. of the track is a fringe of thick talh bush, to the E. the country is fairly open.

Debba El Zawia 4 317 The first dom palms are met here. This Debba is the commencement of the Nabagaia district.

Dinka village, Anok 2½ 319½ A village, Anok, belonging to Agweim Dinkas, is passed about ¾ miles to E. on a slight elevation and thick talh bush commences on both sides of the track. This village appears to depend on the river for its water supply.

The bush gradually develops into talh and heglig forest. There is good shade all along the khor and the track, as it has been throughout, is excellent; the trees along the route cause little inconvenience.

Tereiba (Arab) 9 328½ Nabagaia district ends and Tereiba begins, and is marked by the reappearance of dom palms.

2 330½ An excellent mid-day camping ground, good shade and water in the khor. J. Ahmed Agha is visible from near here.

Debba Ibrahim Sharak (Arab) 3 333½ Dense forest continues until reaching this slight elevation (called after a man who was killed by an elephant here), and commences again after about a mile of open ground, and the district of El Ragal (Arab) begins, and the khor now takes that name.

El Ragal (Arab) — —

Track leading to Kash Kash (Arab and Dinka) 2½ 336 A track branches off eastwards and is said to lead to a Dinka village or district called Kash Kash 15-20 miles from the river. There are said to be wells there. The bush or forest after leaving Debba Ibrahim Sharak up to this point is unpleasantly thick, especially for night travelling, but here the bush ceases to cause any inconvenience.

Goz Abu Teiba 3¾ 339¾ A slight elevation; a mile further on the road was left and Khor Sangeir about 100 yards wide and now (March) dry, was crossed.

Khor Sangeir or Rau ¾ 340½

Khor Messangeir 1 341½ This khor would probably be a considerable obstacle in the rains, and would have to be crossed some distance up. After a good rainy season the people in the neighbourhood of Mabiu, which is about 15 miles further up are said to drink from it until well on into the dry season. A mile further on Khor Messangeir or Mariu, or Balantega, a rather smaller khor is crossed. J. Ahmed Agha or Biba about 300 feet above the plain. There are several Dinka and Selim Arab villages in the neighbourhood, but no one lives here during the rains. The Dinkas then retire inland and the Arabs to districts N. of the fly limit. From Ahmed Agba there is a little used track to Jebel Ulu Gerauit, which is visible from the top of the Jebel, and is described as being distant two days without water. Sheikh Jok is the Dinka Sheikh here and Akwé acts for him when absent. There are many dom palms around the Jebel. Water is obtained from Khor Biba or Ahmed Agha, the river which here bends S.W., is about 1 mile W. of it.

J. Ahmed Agha or Biba 1 342½

Heglig or Tau 3 345½ Is the name of the district which extends for about 6 miles opposite to Gezira Wad Beiker on the northern end of which is a Shilluk village Edor Gamoia. Marbeit (Arab) or Shakab (Dinka) is the name of the next district.

Gezira Wad Beiker 2 347½

Edor Gamoia — —

Marbeit or Shakab 2½ 350

1½ 351½ The road which has been skirting the branch of the Nile (about 30 yards wide) for about the last 4 miles now ceases to do so, and a grassy plain which at High Nile must be a swamp intervenes between it and the river.

Ial Gamus — — A Shilluk village on the island. The Sheikh after whom the village is named, is a refugee from Cairo.

Kwé 4½ ½ 356 A Dinka Farikh.

Alumbul ½ 356½ Sheikh Ajak’s village. The country round is fairly open, scattered kitr and naal grass. Both these villages are under the control of Sheikh Salem Banga of El Wat.

Meshra Zeraf

1½ 358 The meshra extends for about 2 miles; the road skirts the river and crosses a wide, shallow khor called a Farlegh or Rigl by the Arabs. It is said to come from near Aturuk.

Farlegh Meshra Zeraf or Makwé 2 360

Rom (Dinka) or Um Gursan 3 363 Dinka villages named Rom under Sheikh Jok. The district is known by the Arabs as Um Gursan, the track from Renk to this point is as a rule excellent, but from here to Kaka it is generally bad, passing over very hard caked and badly cracked cotton soil.

2 365 Fine kuk and other trees are passed. The small black fly was exceptionally bad here in the early morning and attacked the camels in swarms.

Tereiti 4 369 The district of Tereiti begins. Ardeib El Miriam (Arab) is the district on opposite bank.

Meshra Rom or Tereiti 3 372 Meshra Rom or Tereiti.

Dinka villages, Fil and Ajak 3 375 Villages belonging to Adeir Dinkas. River about 1 mile E. of track, to the W. the country is more or less open with patches of bush and trees in places.

Dinka villages, Nakwé and Fithi 7 382 Villages under Sheikh Akol Wad Ashol.

Jung Yom ¾ 382¾ Dinka villages under Akol. The river is now about 2 miles away, right of road.

Debba Shagerat 1¼ 384 Arab name for knoll on right of point where road bends westwards and crosses a marshy (in rains) plain to Sheikh Akol’s village about 1 mile from river opposite Kaka, where there are many Shilluk villages. The Arab name for this marshy district is Shagerat El Ashera, and Dinka Loing Shuk.

Debeik 2 386

Shagerat El Ashera or Loing Shuk (opposite Kaka) — —

Ajok 2¾ 388¾ Skirting an open marshy (in rains) plain on right and following line of trees on left, Dinka village named Ajok is reached. Tracks now become numerous and ill defined, and one was followed which led across an open marshy (in rains) plain to the Nile 2 miles N. of Kaka, wood station, known as Hellet El Nyam Nyam; the village is situated close to the river bank.

Kaka, old wood station

6¼ 405

43. — РЕНК до противоположного берега КОДОКА (ДУНДЖОЛ) (правый берег).

Капитан Г. Х. Уилсон, декабрь 1902 г., январь и февраль 1903 г.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Renk — — Track taken depends on the time of the year. Up to January inland track must be followed owing to water on the lower.

Telegraph Hill 1 1 On sandy hill near river; village of Abd El Salam, a refugee Dinka from Bahr El Ghazal. From here the track follows the telegraph line for some miles.

Khor Deleib ½ 1½ Merely a dry ditch in the dry season; another dry branch is passed about 300 yards further on. Country here is open grass land; few small trees.

2½ 4 Thin forest of laot thorn bush and small heglig trees.

Gaikwach 3 7 A village of the Aku district, Sheikh Awat Wad Dual. Another small village 300 yards further on.

1½ 8½ Position of old Dinka village.

Kelang 2½ 11 Small village of this name, left.

Loingwen ½ 11½ Beginning of village of Loingwen, which comprises five small ones, all under Sheikh Bakhit Niok. From here along the lower road there are no villages before Elwat, and travellers must halt near water.

Bangdit 1½ 13 Sandy debba; no habitations. Scene of a former fight between Dinkas and Government troops. The track now descends to the bank of the khor that divides Island of Gaza-el-Abiad from the mainland and runs for the next 5 miles on high sandy ridge within 500 yards of the water. Guinea fowl and gazelle in abundance; a few tetel seen, and tracks of antelope, hippo, and buffalo. A good deal of kittr near track since Bangdit. No large trees.

Lardbiu 2½ 15½ Sandy debba on left.

2½ 18 Good camping ground.

Abiad Shwai 1 19 High sandy debba, which used to be covered with big tamarind trees which have now gone. Shortest track is now along telegraph line, but is probably impassable in the rains. Leave khor on right. Country bushy with small heglig trees and some kittr.

3¾ 22¾ Sandy hill on right. Track now crosses open plain of black cotton soil, covered with rank grass.

Elwat

5¼ 28 Beginning of Elwat, district of Gi-el. Head Sheikh, Salem Banga.

1 29 Salem’s own village, about 2 miles from the river. This is the first meshra since leaving Renk. High debba between this village and the river.

From Elwat the track runs alternately through open ground and patches of bush and red talh to Anak.

Anak 5½ 34½ Village of Gi-el district. Three small villages. The local Sheikh Ayik Wad Dok. Track now runs through bush and thick forest for many miles. Lower track deserted by Dinkas, who follow the line now, as being shorter.

Mabiu 3½ 38 High debba on right on edge of khor. Track along the khor is close to line here; now get into the land of big trees.

Dungbiagadet 1½ 39½ Debba on right.

Allal 2½ 42 Debba. Beginning of Allal district, which exists in name only. Arab name Tereiba. Many thick dom palms.

1¼ 43¼ Debba Allal.

Ragal 1¼ 44½ Beginning of district of Ragal. No people.

Debba Ragal 1¼ 45¾ Debba Ragal, about 200 yards from khor. Little game seen here, though plenty of fresh tracks of elephant, buffalo, &c.

Kefali ¼ 46 Debba. Many dom palms. This was site of old Dinka village. Open park land, which soon changes to very thick forest; open again after 1 mile.

2 48 First view of Jebel Ahmed Agha from track.

1 49 Forest of red talh; old Dinka elephant pits, and many skulls of these beasts.

3¼ 52¼ Track divides, one going on to the jebel and the other eastwards—inland. This latter goes to the Dinka district of Baanwen, which lies up Khor Rau. A track used to exist to Goz Kash-Kash, but is now said to be “dead.”

Khor Rau ¼ 52½ Khor Rau, about ¼ mile beyond bend in the telegraph line; 40-feet waterway, 3 feet deep; unfordable for loaded transport animals on account of mud (December).

Jebel Ahmed Agha

2 54½ The route followed will be seen by comparison to be several miles shorter than the old track previously sketched by other officers. Shortest track is now along line, though the going on the lower tortuous native track is better.

Goz Unaché 2¼ 56¾ High ridge of ground on left, used to be thickly populated by Kwach Dinkas. Whole track is through dense forest of heglig, sidr, kuk, kittr, and talh, except at Mile 62, where there is a broad open plain.

5¼ 62

Meshra Zeraf

7⅝ 69⅝ Also called Mukhada Zeraf. No Dinka villages here, though there are some old cattle zeribas. These change yearly—last year’s spot was called Anambul. Some Dinka refugees are, however, going to build this year on the meshra, which is well suited for purposes of being irrigated by shadufs or sakias. This is the first meshra since Elwat, and the last until Kaka old wood station, though in the dry season Meshra Rom becomes a meshra.

Jungle around Meshra Zeraf is mostly kittr.

Khor Makwé 1¾ 71⅜ 600-800 yards wide, and even in dry season impassable, for some way up. In dry season a track exists from here to Kaka wood station by the river bank. The track to the Dinka villages, however, runs up this khor till Mile 76⅛, when the track leaves the khor and runs off southwards over a grass plain. Khor Makwé runs on to Aturuk, a deserted Dinka village.

4¾ 76⅛

Khor Turiak 1½ 77⅝ Track runs along this khor, and 1 mile further on crosses it. Arab name for this khor is Fo-alig.

¾ 78⅜ Enter forest now, which consists of trees and kittr bush, alternately with occasional patches of park-like land, for the next 7½ miles. Khor Turiak is on the left of track till spot where track crosses it, and this khor winds about on right of track till Mile 89⅛.

Gi-ka-kiu 11¾ 89⅛ This is the chief village of Rom, and this is the name generally used, though the people speak of the grazing grounds near the river as Rom, probably denoting that it is the grazing of the Rom people. Sheikh Jok Wad Ageir.

Debba Fajak 4 93⅛ Site of old village.

Kolerang 1¼ 94⅝ Small village, part of Rom.

Bafing 1 95⅝ Small village, part of Rom. Trees on horizon. Cross khor here.

2¾ 98⅜ Cattle zeriba left, belongs to Fiti (see later).

Gio 1¼ 100⅝ Large village of Gio, of district of Ageir, also called Faloich (name of the spot). Village of the Head Sheikh of Ageir, Akol Wad Shol. Good wells here that suffice for the needs of all the inhabitants all the year round, but not for all their cattle. From Gio the track runs W. to Demtemma along a well-defined ridge for several miles; villages cluster thickly along this ridge. Khor Kayaluk runs on left of track.

1½ 102⅛ One of the villages of Beia can be seen from here left. Trees 2 miles off right. Thick bush 1 mile left on other side of khor.

Debba Mioriak 2 104⅛ Debba Mioriak on left.

Ai-yowel ¾ 104⅞ Village of Ageir on right with one big tree on east edge. Village of Kil 1½ miles off half-right. Village of Makwé is behind Kil in the forest.

Jung-yom

1½ 106⅝ Village, part of Ageir, on right. Good wells, ¾ mile off on left in bed of khor, available at all period of dry seasons. Travelling is now most uninteresting, no villages and hardly a tree to be seen.

Debba Fadiet 4 110⅝ Site of an old village. Vast grass plain on every side; not a tree or a bush to be seen, even on the horizon.

Debba Fojbe 3¼ 113⅞ Site of another old village.

Demtemma

7 120⅞ Situated in belt of trees on river bank. Was till recently a police post, but latter has now been moved to Melut, 3 miles down stream, to where the telegraph office is.

1½ 122⅜ Track crosses dry khor which would be a considerable obstacle in the rains.

1⅝ 124 Cattle zeriba of Beia on banks of Khor Adar—which is 60 yards wide here and 4 feet deep, muddy bottom, clean banks. A big debba on south side of the khor, and 1 mile from the mouth of the khor. Broad swamp on right of track.

2⅝ 126⅝ Track descends to river bank; thick bush most of the way on left of track.

Tiang-rial

4⅜ 131 A cattle zeriba of Beia left. Backwater or small lake between track and river. Island in river, north end.

½ 131½ Thick bush left.

½ 132 End of backwater. March on river bank; track winds along river bank, occasionally through very bad kittr bush, which can be avoided in places by marching along the foreshore.

5⅜ 137⅜ Big ardeib tree—conspicuous landmark; backwater between tree and river. After 2 miles the bush ceases, and track lies over an open grass plain.

4¼ 141⅝ Cattle zeriba of village of Bekjuka (Beia). Name of locality Niayok. Khor Awilwil starts here and runs between track and river all the way to just south of Fashoda.

1¾ 143⅜ Cattle zeriba of Bawen and Addora, of district of Ni-el. There are three other zeribas between these last two points.

Mialek 3¾ 147⅛ Cattle zeriba of Bawen (Ni-el).

Fanomdit 2½ 149⅝ Debba and cattle zeriba of district of Dunjol.

Faloich 1 150⅝ Debba and cattle zeriba of Ni-el.

Wunakoch ½ 151⅛ Cattle zeriba of Dunjol.

¾ 151⅞ Cattle zeriba of Bawen. Bush on right between track and khor.

Jomweira — — Cattle zeriba of Dunjol 100 yards further on. Track now crosses broad shallow khor 2 miles wide.

1 152⅞ Bush right; grass plain left.

½ 153⅜ Track enters bush right, leaving khor left. Forest of red talh and heglig, which continues 2½ miles to Mile 157⅛.

Faldiar Rowe 3¾ 157⅛ Cattle zeriba of Dunjol Track leaving this zeriba crosses a shallow khor and passes through a thin belt of forest on to the bank of khor.

Khor Awilwil

1⅛ 158¼ Awilwil, from whence Kodok can be seen for the first time. Track runs southwards along bank of khor for ¼ mile, when all bush ceases, and path is over vast, open, undulating plain.

Debba Denkar ½ 158¾ Good high debba.

1⅛ 159⅞ Track bifurcates here, one following khor and going to Ayung’s zeriba (see later), and the other running through the Dinka villages of Dunjol. The former track is the shorter by 2 or 3 miles.

Amai-rial (opposite to Kodok) 1¾ 161⅝ Village of Dunjol district which is spread over a vast plain opposite Kodok.

Amaal 1¼ 162⅞

Fiuweia 1⅛ 164¼

Ateptiap 3⅜ 167⅜

Khor Wol ⅛ 167½ Track crosses this khor which has water in it in pools and excavations for 10 miles up. Can be ascended by small steamers at high Nile. French steamers used to ascend in 1898.

1⅜ 168⅞ Large cattle zeriba of Sheikh Ayung Wad Agwot, head of Dunjol. This spot is almost due south of Kodok. Between the river and this track is a broad swamp and the formidable khor Awilwil. From here a track runs inland through the remaining villages of Dunjol, keeping in touch with Khor Awilwil all the way, passing through or past the following villages and places:—

Mile 2¼. Wunfit, debba with few trees.

„ 3¼. Faiung, village.

„ 4⅜. Wumakoch, village.

„ 6¼. Tallen, „

„ 8¼. Fanakwé, „

„ 9¾. Fakok, „

„ 10½. Ang-ak, „

„ 12. Fobodiet, „

„ 14. Temohuk, „

„ 16. „

eventually running to the Sobat River, which it joins near the Dinka district of Gnok.

1¼ 170⅛ Cattle zeriba of Fakwé.

Diem Ajak ¾ 170⅞ Debba 600 yards right. Bush commences 200 yards further on. Khor Awilwil runs into the Nile somewhere here by native report.

1¾ 172⅝ Cattle zeriba of Fadweia. Track is good and winds along the khor, which runs from near where Awilwil joined the Nile to the south.

Wuntao 2¼ 174⅞ Cattle zeriba of Dunjol. Name of the locality as well as the village to which the people belong. The Shilluk Mek’s village is due west.

Meshra Merial 2¾ 177⅝ Said to be practicable all the year round as a means of communication between Dinka and Shilluk banks. Shilluk village Kwom opposite. Great numbers of partridges all along here, affording excellent sport walking them up.

The track along here is all good going and would be quite passable in the rains.

2¼ 179⅞ Cattle zeriba of Fadok (Dunjol).

Diwot 1¼ 181⅛ First Shilluk village met with on this (east) bank. End of the Dinka country on the river.

44. — ДЖЕБЕЛЬ-АХМЕД-АГА до АВИТОНГА и КАШ-КАША.

Капитан Г. Х. Уилсон, январь 1903 г.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Jebel Ahmed Agha — — The track up Khor Rau runs northwards for 2 miles and then crosses the khor, and turning eastwards follows it closely. Country well wooded, though in places the forest gives place to bush.

2 2

Gaibek

7¾ 9¾ A village of the Dinka district of Gi-el, sub-division Baanwen. The whole of this country is in certain years under water, not from the local rains, but from the overflow of Khor Rau, which brings water down from the Abyssinian mountains. After such a flood, extraordinary dura crops are harvested, being sown as late as October, when the waters subside.

Debba Mabiu

5⅛ 14⅞ On R. bank of khor, which is here some 60 yards wide, with pools of water in places. Scene of fight between Dinkas and Government troops in reign of Said Pasha.

¾ 15⅝ Cattle zeriba of Kwach, part of Gi-el. Lake filled with weeds and ambach.

Birket Rau

1 16⅝ Another cattle zeriba of Kwach, and just up stream a large open lake or swamp, filled up with weeds, &c. Quantities of wildfowl and snipe; also lion, giraffe and antelope, all of which were seen.

From here a track runs inland to the Dinka villages, and a track exists up the khor, the ultimate destination of which it is impossible to judge from native reports. Track inland very bad, cracked cotton soil, and long, rank, unburnt grass, which, bent down by the strong north wind, presents all its spikes at the face of anyone marching northwards.

Awitong 6 22⅝ Built on a mound which is surrounded by water in flood years. Country wooded, small trees.

3 25⅝ Very fine dura cultivation extending for miles. Large white dura; one “head” which was counted contained 2,600 grains.

Dry lake ¾ 26⅜ Extends some miles and track winds along it. Many fruit-bearing sidr trees in bed of it.

Water hole

1 27⅜ Situated in thick forest; Dinkas in zeriba near here water their cattle from this and do not go to river until it is dry. Elephants had drunk here the previous night.

Woniat ¾ 28⅛ Cattle zeriba of these Dinkas. From here a good track goes to Jebel Gerawi, two days’ march; no water to be got on route.

Debba Fobung 2¼ 30⅜ High sandy debba, from here a small hill can be seen, Jokdit, direction was pointed out by a Dinka up a tree; bearing 355°.

¼ 30⅝ Water hole at N., foot of debba, dries up latter on.

Track is now excellent, running through sandy goz, ground high and forest of fine trees (sabakh). This road is passable all through the rains, and devoid of long grass and mud. Leads to Renk.

1 31⅝ Two small dry ponds.

Goz Kash-Kash

2¼ 33⅞ Heavy sandy ground; very fine forest of big trees. Six wells dug in the sand, water said to be available all the year round. One huge ardeib tree by wells. Many trees called “dorod” by Arabs, “gia” by Dinkas. An old track runs to the river on the Ahmed Agha—Renk road, which it joins at the spot where the old Dinka elephant pits are, but it is now disused and choked with grass.

45. — МАРШРУТ ВВЕРХ ПО ХОР-АДАРУ.

Капитан Г. Х. Уилсон, январь 1903 г.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Mouth of Khor Adar — — Khor at mouth is about 40 yards wide and several feet deep, the depth being, from about 100 yards up-stream, uniformly 4 to 5 feet. Dinkas say there is a current in the rains.

1¼ 1¼ Cattle zeriba of Beia R.; bank; big Debba L.

¾ 2 Cross a small khor that runs in from N.

3¾ 5¾ Cattle zeriba on left bank. Khor bends off to the R., and is joined again at 6¾ miles, when track follows it. Cattle zeriba on L. bank ¾ mile away. Country is open grass plain, except close to mouth of khor where it is wooded, and a few patches of scrub here and there along the banks.

1 6¾

1 7¾ Cattle zeriba Beia on R. bank. Khor bends off and is joined again at 9¾ miles, from where it makes a big bend southwards, and is not seen again till Rengachuk is passed.

2 9¾

Going so far very bad over much cracked soil and few shade trees.

Track now runs over a rank grass plain to the first Dinka village at

Tedao 8½ 18¼ District of Beia; Sheikh Amwot wad Aiwel. From here villages can be seen ahead on all sides. Few trees, practically a vast plain, intersected with depressions that in the dry seasons are hard to define, and which in the rains might be serious obstacles.

Bekjuka 2½ 20¾ Another village of Beia.

Abai-at 2¼ 23 Village of Ni-el; mostly cattle thieves.

Jokdwet 1¾ 24¾ Village of Jokdwet, of district Ni-el.

Wuntao 1¾ 26½ „ „ „ „

2½ 29 Fairly thick trees and bush lasting 1 mile.

Rengachuk 5¼ 34¼ Village of Ni-el, of the Addora people. Consists of two portions. From here track runs down to khor again.

2½ 36¾ At this point the khor is of greater dimensions than at the mouth, being 60 yards and 5 to 6 feet deep; choked however with long reeds and sudd.

¾ 37½ Track here crosses a small khor, dry in January.

Khor Niagweia ¼ 37¾ This is another important khor that is reported to come from the Burun country, but it was reported dry a few miles up (January, 1903). It is probably the khor shown on some maps as “Ez Zamma,” a name which is not recognised by any inhabitants, 60 to 100 yards wide and 4 to 5 feet deep.

Track now runs through jungle for 3 miles.

Khor Adar 7¾ 45½ Khor Adar is met here again, having, since fording Khor Niagweia, been on the R. at varying distances. Track now follows it. Country here is very uninteresting, no game and few trees, but the ever present long grass. Path meets the khor at

Raduk ¼ 45¾ Width here 40 yards, depth 4 feet; track cuts across a bend and meets khor at

Gwatan 3¼ 49 Cattle zeriba of Ni-el; people mostly wanted by the police, and who have retired to a safe distance. Khor close on L.

2¼ 51¼ Track crosses a khor that is dry 100 yards up.

Many elephant tracks on edge of khor, but made in the rains. From here a track exists through a country of unburnt elephant grass, the actual ground being well-nigh impassable, being ploughed up by elephants, and overgrown with a tangle of vegetation, through which nothing but fire or elephants could make a path. Looking from the top of an high ant-heap, the country is seen to be more wooded inland.

Khor Benatat 7 58¼ Is said to join Khor Adar about 7 miles up. Dinkas also state that two other khors joins Khor Adar ahead, one from S. Khor Aturuk, and one from N. Khor Fao-eng.

From here to the Nuer country is variously described as being from 2 to 5 days.

46. — ДЖЕБЕЛЬ-ДЖЕРОК через ДЖЕБЕЛЬ-ЭРИ, КИЛВЕГУ до ВАД-ДЕЛУКИ (около 52 миль к юго-востоку от Мелута).

Майор Г. де Х. Смит, май 1904 г.

Примечание: Это не тот маршрут, который часто используется, но он был открыт путем вырубки кустарника и т. д. в мае 1904 года с целью его возможной пригодности в качестве торгового пути из Бени-Шангула к Белому Нилу в Мелуте. Движение почти все время идет по плохой хлопковой почве, и водоснабжение в настоящее время очень ненадежно. Он, несомненно, будет трудным в сезон дождей.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

J. Jerok — — Site of Military Post. From here route to J. Maiak is that taken by the Wad Mahmud expedition in February, 1904. Water in pools in Khor Ahmar 1½ miles before reaching this hill.

J. Maiak 19 19

J. Eri

11 30 Pond of rain-water, very uncertain, about 1½ miles from the hill.

Villages of Gum Gum people

9 39 About 7 miles from Eri, a khor with rain-water (May) is crossed, and further on, the villages of Gum Gum people are reached. They drink from pools to the east of Khor Gemmeiza and, at certain seasons, from rain pools about 1 mile W. of villages.

K. Gemmeiza

8 47 Water in pool in khor. A rain pool is passed about 4 miles further on, and the villages of Burun from Gum Gum, called Kilwega, are reached.

Kilwega

7 54

Sami (K. Gemmeiza) 10 64 K. Gemmeiza now runs, in a very winding bed, a mile or two to the south of and parallel to the track. A path has been cut to a watering place in the khor, called Sami. Past old burnt village of Kurara Buruns, who now occupy village on new road-cultivation here, and water used by people from J. Ulu in dry season. Khor very narrow and covered up with willows; on both sides are swamps. Khor losing traces of sand. Two water holes here could be much improved.

From Sami, track cut along high ground until Ulu track is met, going to

Khamiret El Tin 14 78 Khamiret El Tin, about 4 miles off. This is a good track and much used but very tortuous, and follows along ridge of high ground. Before this, at 3rd mile, a track from Ulu to Um Adil on Khor Sami is crossed; this is apparently called Um Ebeil on Pruyssenaere’s route.

About one hour from Khamiret El Tin, track leaves khor and goes along a depression in which, later on, the 7 Hafiras of Khamiret El Tin village are. These are roofed-in ponds of marsh water and zeribaed to prevent animals, etc., drinking; water unpleasant; 5 of these now full of water.

Khamiret El Kurda 6 84 There are two water holes in Khor Sida, which is the same as Khor Sami, S.W. of village and used by some people who live there. This is better water. From here 6 miles off is Khamiret El Kurda; people from here now drink at Kumara Hellet Bishara. These villages are under Sheikh Ata Mannan.

Kumara Hellet Bishara

7 91 Khor, after Khamiret El Kurda, as also here, goes into Farashes and is apparently lost.

Hellet Bitter 12 103 From here, 12 miles, general direction S., is Hellet Bitter; water not obtainable here all the year round; people drink at Bishara, etc., according to time of year.

Hellet Banjom 6 109 No water here at present; road bad going.

Wad Deluka 14 123 About 14 miles off, in S.W. direction. Water here in two wells, one has fallen in.

Melut 52 (?) 175 (?) On the White Nile.

47. — УРЬОНГ на СОБАТЕ до БЕЛОГО НИЛА напротив КОДОКА.

Майор К. У. Гвинн, C.M.G., D.S.O.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Uryong — — Uryong is a small Dinka village on the right bank. From this point there is a much used short cut straight across to Kodok. The road from Uryong as far as the beginning of the Dunjol villages must be almost entirely under water at high Nile, but even then the Dinkas can find the track, which is marked here and there by small mud heaps. In the dry season from Uryong to Dunjol is generally traversed by night, as there is no water obtainable till the Dunjol wells are reached. From Uryong the road traverses open marsh land for about 2½ miles and then enters a belt of thick white thorn about 3 miles wide. After this the country gets more and more bare, and for the last half of the way to Dunjol there are no trees at all.

Dunjol

31 31 At Dunjol there are a number of Dinka villages which stretch north along a very shallow khor, in which wells are sunk some 30 feet deep in the black clay. They are revetted with grass.

Village

9 40 The tree belt near the Nile is visible from these villages, and there are many paths leading off it. After following the line of the khor for about 5 miles, the road strikes off towards the Nile and passes through a village which draws its water from the Nile, then it turns north again and passes through another village before descending into the marsh ground flooded at high Nile.

Village

6 46

Opposite Kodok 2 48 The road from Dunjol to this last village is sandy, and would probably be generally dry.

[20] Описание см. в части I, стр. 119.

[21] В 1904 году в Джебель-Мазмуме была небольшая деревня и колодец.

[22] Была проложена дорога (1904 г.) напрямую от Агади до Гуле.

[23] Большая часть, если не все это вади, была расчищена (1904 г.).

ГЛАВА VI.

(ЮГО-ВОСТОЧНЫЙ СУДАН.)

48. — НАССЕР до УРЬОНГА.

Майор Гвинн, C.M.G., D.S.O., февраль 1901 г.

В сухой сезон есть хорошая дорога от Насера вниз по Собату.

Практически никаких припасов у местных жителей получить нельзя, но цесарки обычны, и газелей обычно можно подстрелить. Деревьев и кустарника обычно много до Ньяквойка, но после входа в страну динка единственные деревья, которые можно увидеть, — это несколько деревьев, выращенных в деревнях для тени. Динка возят древесный уголь на большие расстояния в качестве топлива.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Right bank, opposite Nasser — —

Starting on right bank, opposite Nasser, the following villages were passed on the north bank:—

Tawba 9 9 ⎫

⎬

⎭ Small Nuer villages.

Nyakwoik 3 12

Gau 3 15

Shillup (1st camp) 1½ 16½

From this point a waterless road strikes straight to Fashoda, 3 days’ march for natives.

Ford Kofiat (Sheikh Akol) 2 18½

At Kofiat the river was forded. About 3 feet deep and 200 yards wide. Exit on south bank bad, but bottom firm and good. The road on the north bank was said to be overgrown, and there was little sign of inhabitants on the south bank; cutting across a large bend, came to Nyanlang, Fauwel, and Nyandeng; the latter is a small village near a dry shallow drainage khor. Thick bush and bad mosquitoes.

Nyanlang 3½ 22

Fauwel ½ 22½

Nyandeng (2nd camp) 3 25½

Minchom 2¼ 27¾

Thence cutting another bend through Minchom, striking the river again at Twednyang.

Twednyang 2¾ 30½

Ashol ½ 31

Thence striking across bend through Ashol, to Abong, thence to Patiyam, which is the last Nuer village; now enter the Nyuak district of Amol.

Abong 1½ 32½

Patiyam 1½ 34

Gehinyar 3 37

The first Nyuak village, on the river bank.

Reitsum 2¾ 39¾

Thence following the river through dry marsh, strike across bend through Fedwil.

Malwal (3rd camp) 3¼ 43

Fedwil 1¼ 44¼

Sheikh Gwat’s.

Bwoilbang ¾ 45

To Bwoilbang.

Wegin 2 47

At Wegin reach river again opposite marshy island and keep along bank.

Shwai 2 49

Leave river again at Shwai, and thence to Fatiwanyang, the residence of Sheik Aiwel, who is very friendly to the Government. There are a number of elephant near his village. Leave the river and skirt a swampy district. Some cattle.

Fatiwanyang 3¾ 52¾

Yakwoik 5½ 58¼

Yakwoik is a few miles up stream of Major Austin’s base camp, which however was not seen. From here strike across a big bend; no water obtainable till river is reached again, after a march of 12 miles. All trees cease near Wangnait, which is the 1st Dinka village, and is one of a large group of villages.

4th camp 1¼ 59½

Wangnait (5th camp), Sheikh Bang 17 76½

Gobtoing 3 79½

Thence cutting across a series of small bends to Gobtoing; thence to

Tubu 3 82½

Tubu, Sheikh Lual’s; thence to

Adong 3½ 86

Adong,

Dud 1½ 87½

Dud, and

Uryong 2½ 90

Uryong. Awut, an old woman, is Sheikha of Uryong.

Ford (6th camp) 1½ 91½

There is a ford 1 mile below here. Village at the head of the island, crossing 4 feet deep.

Uryong ½ 92

On the opposite bank is the 2nd village of Uryong, from which runs the direct road to Kodok (48 miles), vide Route 47.

49. — ОТ ГОКДЖАКА ДО КЕЙКА.

Капитан Г. Г. Уилсон, апрель и май 1902 г.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Gokjak — — Small compact village on left bank of Sobat, good dry banks, few trees. Track from Gokjak runs over open plain, very bad going, black cotton soil; large cracks in ground, making it difficult for transport animals. Khor 100 yards wide, running parallel to river, dry in April; track continuous over open grass plain, mostly burnt in dry season, and no trees except one or two solitary ones to

1½ 1½

Shol Ajik

7 8½ Small Dinka village on right bank of Khor Filus, which runs from here to its mouth (10 miles from mouth of Sobat); khor dried up into pools, water muddy; few trees in village, also Sheikh’s tomb with huge elephant tusk. The tracks run on to M’Yolga; inland track the better, alternative track follows and passes under large trees for 3 miles; track bad to

M’Yolga 8½ 17 Long straggling Dinka villages on Khor Filus, water in pools, fair; many water-fowl. Sheikhs Ayung Yor and Agweir Owawe. Track now winds about the end of M’Yolga district. Two small villages on khor, and 2 miles further on enters bush of red talh, which leaves and crosses grass plain after 1½ miles, and rejoins khor 3 miles further on. Water available, banks of khor thickly wooded with thorn bush; a few good trees.

4 21

7 28 Small ferik, or cattle village, in dry season. These feriks are all same type, dome-shaped grass tukls, with open spaces with pegs for picketing cattle, &c. Some have zeribas.

Gekrek

3 31 Name of locality; good camping ground on left of khor, which is easily crossed in dry season; 2 feet of water covered with matted weeds, water fair; ground gradually becoming more wooded; heglig and gemmeiza.

Adodit 2¼ 33¼ Name of locality; khor twists about considerably; track cuts across a corner here, and joins khor again after 2 miles, and continues to

Biar 6½ 39¾ Name of locality; country between M’Yolga and Nerol uninhabited, being a “no man’s land” between Dinkas and Nuers; men of one tribe crossing to territory of other tribe do not return as a rule.

4 43¾ Small khor, merely draining few miles of lowlying land in rains.

Fan Yanglwel

2¼ 46 Name of locality; thickly wooded, with high knolls, good camping ground, water muddy. From here run two tracks; one to Nerol, along the khor; a second across country to Riul. Latter track crosses khor Fanyanglwel and runs along left bank of khor for 3 miles, passing one ferik at 47th mile, and then cuts across an open plain with few scattered trees, and meets Khor Filus at Riul.

1 47

The former track runs through beautiful country along bank of Khor Filus; thickly wooded, waterfowl in abundance, also harte-beest (Tiang) and Oribi; a little water in places, in the khor, under matted reeds. Khor very winding to Nerol (9 miles). Cattle feriks on R. bank of khor; fine sheet of water (some 2 miles long in places) 50 to 60 yards wide, and in places deep; good colour and taste. Village of Nerol about 6 miles due south, according to guides; at bend of Khor Filus, at mile 10, Khor Chirol or Nerol flows in, said to flow from Nyang Deng on Sobat, near Nasser, 30 to 40 yards wide, nearly dry (April). Track now runs along khor straight to Riul, 5½ miles further on.

Riul 6¾ 53¾ A cattle ferik on right bank of khor, village proper lies two miles inland due south, behind thick belt of trees.

Tut 2¼ 56 Cattle ferik under good shady trees, village proper inland behind trees; good camping ground; thick thorn bush ¼ mile on left of track; good pool of water in khor, 400 yards from camp, which is on rising ground, no trees for shade.

2¼ 58¼

Meinom 2¼ 60½ Cattle ferik, and village inland is visible.

1 61½ Another large cattle ferik, also rest of Meinom village proper visible inland; track now runs straight for 7 miles, passing feriks of Riang and Reir on the way to small khor; country thickly wooded on left of track, thinly on right.

7 68½

Fading

3½ 72 Important scattered Nuer village in trees on right of khor; large pool of water, surrounded towards its northern end by ambach swamp, many and varied waterfowl; a track runs from here to large village of Falliu, distant 7 miles S.W. in forest; water fair at Fading; cattle ferik and pool, with ambach fringe round edge, water bad.

1½ 73½

Fatowel

4 77½ Three cattle feriks of this name on khor; several pools of stagnant water; track crosses open plain 1 mile wide, and then for 7 miles runs through forest of Inderab, along bed of khor, crossing and re-crossing it, forest then thins out, and next 4 miles is over grass plain to

Shit

12½ 90 Large cattle feriks, village proper 2 miles away S.W. on left bank of khor; large pool of very foul stagnant water. No other water nearer than 3 miles fit to drink. Ambach swamp round water, waterfowl plentiful.

3 93 Track runs 3 miles across open grass plain, over good sandy track, and enters this red talh bush, which gives place shortly to thin forest of heglig; large trees.

Fulnob 3 96 Long straggling village on left of track, fair amount of dura cultivation.

Dwok 4½ 100½ A very large scattered village, well built tukls; cattle tukls being particularly fine; most of these Nuer villages are built in thin forest, making it impossible to estimate their full extent without penetrating long distances into the woods.

Amwot-el-Sogheir

4½ 105 Beginning of Little Amwot. Two or three shallow muddy wells; few trees; track now runs across Amwot plain, thickly populated; tukls in groups; probably homesteads every few hundred yards for 4 miles to the wells.

Wells of Amwot-el-Sogheir

4 109 Dug on sandy bank of a large shallow khor; khor dry in April. Banks lined with um suf; cattle ferik on edge of khor; wells 12 in number, 20 feet to 25 feet deep, 2 feet 6 inches in diameter; fairly thick forest of abu hemeira and trees called soba and leun. Leaving Amwot wells, track enters thick forest, which extends for 2 miles, then continues over plain for another 2 miles, finally runs through very thin forest to

Keik 6½ 115½ Residence of Nuer Sheikh Denkur; in centre of village is a cone, built of mud, 50 to 60 feet high, seen at least 3 miles off, surmounted with elephants’ tusks, and a huge spike like a lightning conductor; base of cone on east sides planted with elephants’ tusks, with points turned outwards.

Fair amount of dura cultivation; beyond village of Keik, to N.E. and S., is a vast open plain with no trees; no wells or other water found; ground is fairly high and presumably healthy.

Shit — 90 From Shit, which is 90 miles from Gokjak, a track runs almost due south, crossing Khor Filus; good going.

1½ 91½ Village proper of Shit about 1 mile away on left bank of khor in thick trees.

1½ 93 Group of 6 wells dug in bed of khor; cattle ferik on right bank of khor; cattle watered from these wells; water when drawn up poured into shallow circular troughs of puddled sand and mud, to enable cattle to drink. Another similar group of wells; track branches off to right, to small village, part of Amwot-el-Kebir, 2½ miles distant. Track now runs along bed of khor.

1 94

1 95

Amwot-el-Kebir

3¼ 98½ Filus, to beginning of Amwot-el-Kebir, in line of trees running north and south; track now descends across plain and crosses khor to main portion of village. Villages of great extent, part built in plain, but greater part (impossible to estimate) built in woods; tukls well built and very numerous; much dura cultivation; group of wells.

3½ 101½

Примечание. — Местных проводников из племени нуэр для прохода по вышеуказанной местности от М’Йолги до Кейка найти невозможно из-за активной враждебности нуэров. Единственные люди, знающие общее расположение местности, — это динка, которые были рабами нуэров или жили здесь до того, как нуэры захватили эту территорию. Их можно найти в М’Йолге, но в лучшем случае они ненадежны в отношении сведений о воде или расстояниях.

50. — Маршрут вверх по Бахр-эль-Зераф.

Майор Стэнтон, октябрь 1898 г. — Дополнения подполковника Спаркса, C.M.G., март 1899 г.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

— — On entering the Bahr el Zeraf, the current is strong[25]—3 miles an hour—the depth 20 feet, and channel narrow at first; opens out from 30 yards to 80 yards a couple of miles up. Water is clear, and of a dark brown tinge. Jebel el Zeraf lies away to the south-east on R. bank 5 miles off; there are four distinct hills, all of volcanic rock, covered with bush. A broad open plain, marsh near the river, extends to the foot of these hills R., while L. is wooded and scrub—open plain behind; here hippopotami, elephant, giraffe, water-buck, and reed-buck have been seen.

5½ 5½ Grass plain both banks, with a little low scrub L. From here on to 30, flat marshy plain both banks.

24½ 30 Wood obtainable; some large trees L. bank, dry marsh R.

5 35 Bush commences both banks; river bends backwards and forwards, banks wet and marshy, and landing difficult. This continues till 60.

10 45 Dry place L.

15 60 Large open maya L. Water runs inland some distance. River continues to make loops and bends; channel 80 to 100 yards broad.

10 70 Scrub ceases both banks, boundless marsh extending to horizon opens up; several large sheets of open water are passed.

8 78 Farthest point reached by Major Peake, 5.10.98. Egyptian flag hoisted L. 14¾ hours’ steam from mouth of river. River 80 yards wide; current 2 miles per hour.

Kuchuk Ali (?) 2 80 River bends about a great deal; some of the curves are very sharp; patches of open water each side at intervals; open marsh both sides with 3 to 4 feet of water. Twenty hours’ steam from mouth.

2 82 Solitary small Dom palm passed on R.

3 85 Clump of thick small trees R. in 3 feet of water close to channel; thousands of divers build in these trees (October, 1898). Wood for steamers could be cut here, but with some difficulty, unless the water falls; scrub begins first beyond here on L. bank. R. continues open.

12 97 Large sheet of open water or maya about 1 mile away R.; bush on horizon beyond.

3 100 Low scrub ½ mile away R. Big trees on horizon west L.

Gauer (?) 10 110 Scattered Nuer houses seen on horizon 6 miles away L.; village 2 miles farther on under trees believed to be village of Gauer. Open plain R. Small clump of trees in water at 107, where wood could be obtained if necessary. Shallows sometimes to 4 feet; generally 10 feet.

10 120 Trees close to channel L.; open patches of water.

2 122 Maya and stream comes in L.; this leaves the proper channel at 130 higher up, and cuts across a corner direct.

5 127 Thick trees L. and clump of trees R., all in water (October); sharp turn west.

3 130 Channel turns again S. Maya and stream come in L. Solitary palm visible S. R. bank open marsh, bush ends L.

5 135 Solitary Dom palm passed on edge of channel L., marsh both banks, trees and scrub begin again L.

5 140 River bends west. Dom palms visible west.

4 144 Sparkes’ farthest point in steamer: aground.

Kuchuk Ali 4 148 “Lotus” River comes in R.; channel 50 yards, covered with large “Lotus Nymphæ.” Good wood station here just inside the mouth of “Lotus” River, where dry land can be reached by steamer. Wood extends back in water for 2 or 3 miles, but sufficient can be cut on dry ground. This is the last place where steamers can wood, as all other wood seen, being either Dom or Deleib palm, is useless for fuel. “Lotus” River dried up in March.

Zeraf turns west towards thick Dom palms; open water seen N.W. From here on the channel goes through numerous lagoons; the water appears slightly discoloured by mud; the stream increases in strength, and the channel in width.

3 151 Sharp bend S.; large volume of water flows out of channel into marsh N., and makes open mayas seen about 1 to 1½ miles away. Dom palms, close to river, dry ground 1 mile farther on L., thick Dom palms; channel 100 to 150 yards broad, numerous lagoons. Scrub and wood 1 mile away R.

Kuek 8 159 Small village on edge of lagoons, larger one behind under Dom palms, known as Kuek; natives Dinkas, and friendly. Egyptian flag left here with them; natives frightened by steamer, but reassured afterwards. After passing their village the regular channel gets lost as it flows to the west of clump of Dom behind Kuek, where it gets blocked by sudd, the water finding its way through the marsh and lagoons. The “Abu Klea” continued (October, 1898) in a southerly direction, and after crossing a lagoon 11 feet deep, which shallowed down to 4 feet, the main channel again struck, 18 feet deep.

Wayo — — Wayo village, Nuers, Sheikh Atar, close by. No Dinkas round this way. Left here by a narrow passage through the reeds, and joined what is evidently the main river, 80 to 100 yards broad and very deep channel. It comes in from other side of villages, and natives say it is blocked by sudd lower down. This channel through which neither steamer or gyassa could get is evidently that mentioned by Peake, between 150 and 160 miles, which he went through, and which was only 5 feet deep. It is now just over 2 feet deep.

Mogren el Buhur Zeraf 3 161 Junction of the rivers Zeraf. One channel comes in from S.E., which ends 6 miles up in a large open lake 9 feet deep, and with numerous villages scattered about on bits of dry ground surrounded by a sea of marsh and sudd.

The Bahr el Jebel is stated to be only a few hours in a canoe (about 6) through the reeds in westerly direction. It is stated to be blocked N. of this point.

The second channel comes in from a southerly direction going up-stream, after bending a good deal, passes an old tree like an English elm near two small villages, and flows close by large village of Ajiung. Nuer tribe here; Sultan Diu, the head of the Nuers in this locality, resides here. Large clump of Deleib palms, 500 yards from channel.

Ajiung Lake 14 175 Ajiung village R. Large village under Deleib palms. Lat. 7° 48′ N. (approximate). Large straggling lake; sudd S., S.W., and S.E.

13 188[26] Channel goes on another 13 miles, then ends in 3 feet of water on large sudd-covered lake. A large maya goes off N.E., which is declared closed about 5 miles up; this water probably forms the River “Lotus” farther down. If it is intended to go from the Bahr el Zeraf to the Bahr el Jebel, natives should be got from Ajiung to direct the course, which lies entirely through patches of sudd and open water. The direction marked on the map should be somewhat more towards the north. The channel at Ajiung, which is broad and deep, soon narrows, and current becomes less as the head is reached, clearly showing that a great deal of the water in the channel at Ajiung flows through the reeds and sudd, where the depth appears to be about 4 feet. The whole country S. and S.W. of Ajiung appears to be one vast sudd-covered lagoon through which the waters forming the Bahr el Zeraf flow until the main channel is formed; pieces of sudd measuring 40 yards by 30 were met after a severe storm in the western branch. Such pieces of sudd are liable at any time to block the present channel and cause a fresh one to open out.

[24] См. также маршрут 134, Горе — Абвонг, в приложении.

[25] Даже в марте.

[26] Майор Г. Э. Мэтьюз прошел на пароходе около 30 миль выше этой точки в августе 1904 г., но затем был остановлен суддом.

ГЛАВА VII.

(БАХР-ЭЛЬ-ГАЗАЛЬ.)

51. — ОТ МЕШРА-ЭЛЬ-РЕК ДО ТОНДЖА.

Капитан Г. Д. У. Ллойд, январь 1904 г.

Place. Miles. Description.

Inter-mediate. Total.

Meshra El Rek — — Leaving the Nuzl, the track crosses a khor some 15 feet deep, by a bridge partly under water. After 100 yards bridge ends and you wade waist deep for 3 miles.

Camp

3½ 3½ Always dry, but mosquitoes very bad. Good water all the year round. Very bad track leading due S. between grass 7 feet high. Ground much cut up by cattle passing in the rains.

Unangarp 7½ 11 A few Dinka tukls; no supplies N. boundary of Lau district. Head Sheikh Kwitol.

Manashin

2 13 Water holes, which are said never to dry up completely, situated on W. of track. Good camp, well marked by a deleib growing out of centre of gemmeiza tree on track. No supplies.

Track continues nearly due S., winds a great deal, and much cut up. Bad going for man and beast.

War Lai

6¾ 19¾ A swamp, 300 yards W. of track. It is said never to dry up; 300 by 200 yards. Fair drinking water. Animals easily watered by digging trenches.

Fulbar

6 25¾ Road through an open forest, grass lately burnt. Track better, but much broken in places by old elephant tracks. Fulbar is a large swamp, said never to dry up. Many elephant tracks. Good water.

Leaving the pool, the track joins the main road a mile on. Fair track.

Amangnok

7 32¾ A large swamp, good water, lasts all the year, on W. of track, which goes S. to Marra Alangjok, passing the village of Sheikh Angong Marial.

Mana Alangjok — — A large Dinka cattle enclosure, well-known throughout this district.

War Gel

7 39¾ Pools in a swamp. Water said to last all the year. Bad shade. Half-a mile on Sheikh Tioing’s house is passed on the N. of the road, and Sheikh Malwal Mabior’s village over a mile long is left to the W.

Haleik

7 46¾ A swamp, left to W. of road, water said to last all the year. Track generally good, but cut up by elephants in places. Sheikh Wal Mabior’s village is entered 2 miles from Ateim swamp.

Wal Mabior’s, or Ateim

5 51¾ A mile wide from E. to W., and 1½ miles from N. to S. Very good and plentiful water.

Mowok

2 53¾ A swamp 1 mile E. of road. Very good track through open country. Heglig trees and little bush.

Mabior Dod’s

2 55¾ Large swamps. Good water; called Katoi. Fair shade. Good track through rather open and perfectly level country. Soil sandy in places.

Again Well, Ewal Gor’s

5 60¾ Small water holes, little water. There is a good deal of cultivation about, and Dinka huts every few hundred yards.

Sheikh Bak Bong Yep’s

4 64¾ Four bad and one good water holes. Latter known as Abaing, after a small tree near it; watered 200 men easily. The four other holes just satisfied 100 donkeys. Fair shade. Obtained some dura.

Teing Teing well

1 65¾ One fair well, or rather hole; water for 30 or 40 men. Good going on the whole.

“Dug-Dug” (ruins) 4 69¾ Site of an old cattle enclosure, marked by some mounds of earth and some usher bushes.

Atubbu

11 80¾ One water hole; dirty water, but enough to give 200 men a drink.

Aweid

2 82¾ A small swamp, but plenty of fair water. Fair shade under heglig trees. Track passes across an open plain covered with grass, which in places is 10 feet high. Few trees, but trees of the Tonj valley seen in the distance to the S. Bad going for first 3 miles, then very good.

Atang’s (N. end) 4¼ 87 The direct road to Tonj Post leads to the W.S.W. Another, down a khor, in which are several water-holes strikes the River Tonj. Small camp on left bank. The river bed is 65 yards wide and 15 feet deep. Water 25 yards wide and 18 inches deep. Good water; sandy bottom. No mosquitoes.

R. Tonj

3 90

Leaving the river the track for 3 miles goes through long grass, then crosses a plain; grass at first, then covered with grass and bush.

Abuior Sheikh Maton’s and War Rual

9 99 A small water hole (War Rual) on W. of track at N. end of Sheikh Matoin’s village (Abui). There are a few more wells to the W., but the best water is a mile to the E. in a swamp. Good shade near road.